Want to take the right steps....

[RayAllen]

Ok ive read over many threads and I want to do this right the 1st time.

Keep in mind I will not be getting the bus painted for at least a year, but want to get it stripped and primed and will be driving it. What I dont want is water to penetrate and see my self back to stripping. So tell me if this is right

Step 1- Strip down to the metal (ive already started)

Step 2- Degrease

Step 3- Do I go ahead and apply etching primer or some type of sealant. If some type of sealant what kind? If I do not have to Id rather not POR 15 the entire bus.

Step 4- High coat primer.

Will these steps form a good sealant against future water penetration and or rust? I will be doing the upper half of the bus first. From the bottom of the window and up.

[vt70vw]

i use master series over my hole bug looks good so far and sprays nice .

[marklaken]

1- "strip down to bare metal" - why? it is not necessary if the original paint is in decent shape...in fact, I think alot of paint jobs go south because of sanding down to bare metal...

sand down to original paint and into the primer some - that is best in my book unless there is lots of rust or a previous owner sanded down to bare metal (you should be able to tell)

2 - degrease...you should degrease frequently...when sanding as well as prior to spraying primers/paints

2b - treat rust with phosphouruse based prducts - rustmort is a brand name one that I've used and would reccomend for surface rust - POR-15 and the like are for serious rust issues - i like Masterseries found in the banner ads on this website...

3 - etch prime if required by your paint system. A lot of manufacturers use or offer an epoxy based primer which I believe is water proof and adheres to bare metal. Sealer is a confusing term - sealer does some or all of the following: seals bare metal from moisture, seals bare metal and primer from moisture, provides a uniform color coat and additional adhesion prior to painting - make sure you get the right sealer

4 - high coat primer - some spendier epoxy primers can serve multiple purposes - high build, water proof and sealer prior to painting. - their hardeners do not have very long shelf lives after opening, however...so not sure if they save you any money in the long run...

you didn't ask about filler, but filler can be done prior to step 4 or sand to metal after step 4 - it should be sealed from moisture with epoxy primer or sealer
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[djkeev]

Hi,

Primer is NOT water proof. It is a product designed to adhere to a surface and for a top coat of paint to adhere to, double stick tape if you will. A layer of automotive Paint IS waterproof.

If you are going to drive the vehicle in process for a year or so in primer, you will have rust reappearing anywhere the primer is on bare metal. Where primer is over existing paint it will not rust.

What to do about this? There are as many opinions as people reading this.

I'd keep a gun of single stage color and shoot whatever panel you have completed to prevent rust. When it comes time to paint the whole car properly just sand it down, shoot a coat of sealer/primer and then shoot your final color.

Like I said this is but one persons opinion.

Stay away from rattle can primer no matter what the "quality". Stick with a good primer in a gun.

The previous post mentioned filler. Filler MUST be sealed, it is not at all moisture proof and will suck up water in a fashion similar to a stone.

Dave
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[RayAllen]

Thanks guys

I got a hold of a very recommended auto restoration man here in San Antonio and he walked me through what i need to do and what brand of product to use.

1 Sand down to metal
2 Clean and degrease
3 Condition metal
4 Epoxy primer (2 coats)
5 High build primer on top
6 Another coat of epoxy

This will protect the body from any water untill I can paint.

On the inside of the bus all the panels and floors will be coated with POR 15

[spook]

[[email protected]]

Should he just stop at the Epoxy primer?

And go with the high build when he is ready to paint?

High Build Primer
Block and sand
Paint
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[spook]

epoxy sealer
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[marklaken]

[RayAllen]

Sorry I left a step out. After I high Build Primer I need to apply another coat of epoxy primer 2 to 1 with reducer. then I will be sealed untill I can paint

[VintageVulture]

Hmm. cool- I've never heard this latest method but I like it. Keep in mind that this epoxy sealer is NOT UV protected. I have had cars in epoxy before and within six months it's faded, oxidized and somewhat chalky to the touch. Not that it is a bad thing if you plan on painting within a year or so... Just thought I'd chime in. Go for it, learn as you go and most of all, have fun. This is how I became a professional body man and painter. A few early-days type of mistakes and expensive lessons at home in the garage and then an apprenticeship to correct them!!
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[RayAllen]

I hope to have it painted no later than a year after doing all of these steps and it will be garage kept. So im thinking it will be ok untill then. The product/brand PPG im using are top notch and not cheap so Im hoping thats also a factor in keeping it in great condition untill paint.

[[email protected]]

I bought some Nason Ful-Poxy and was told it is a primer & sealer.

If reducing primer makes it a sealer, doesn't that mean it is a sealer when it is not reduced? Or am I missing something?
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[marklaken]