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tundrawolf
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Joined: February 24, 2009
Posts: 1384
Location: RIP Mishomi my friend. I will always love you.
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 Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 11:48 am Post subject: Taking the motor apart, breaking studs etc |
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| So I had some spare time and began taking the engine apart as much as I could before the rain. I sprayed penetrating spray on every nut and bolt that I could a while back. Then, I did it again, and I have managed to break both rear facing top exhaust studs. The bottom nuts, are too small for a 13MM, too big for a 12MM. The passenger side nut seems to be between 11 and 12MM, a 7/16 wrench fits it tightly, but it won't budge, and I cannot get a tool in because of the heat exchangers. Then the rain began. Any tips on oddly sized rusted on nuts? The front nuts came off without a problem. |
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djkeev
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Joined: September 30, 2007
Posts: 32988
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 12:44 pm Post subject: |
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Taking apart an old rusty engine without causing a lot of damage is actually a skill learned over the years.
Heat is your best friend. Without burning the place down, intelligently placed heat will enable you to separate even the most stubborn fastener. When two pieces of metal fuse together heat makes them swell and break the unnatural bond they formed. Along with a good penetrating oil (not WD40) and the knowledge of what fasteners "feel" like you'll be able to disassemble anything. Keep in mind that if you are in a hurry, even with heat you will break things. This is a task for the patient person, refrain from the use of air tools and electric guns.
Also get yourself a metric tap and die set, you can then clean up and repair the fasteners before reassembly to make it better, also use an anti seize compound on the threads to further enhance future repairs.
You can get the broken stud out, but once again a level of skill and patience is needed. Also use heat as you remove it. There are various extractors on the market but none of them is any good if you don't take the time and properly drill a hole dead center and then take your time removing it. The LAST thing you want to do is break that extractor off inside the broken bolt, they are then a real bitch to remove!
The nuts have corroded, take a file and gentle file them down until they fit a wrench, turn it a smidgen, file the next flat, turn it a smidgen, file the next flat.
It all takes time, but it is time well invested for I'd much rather take an hour getting a crappy nut off than have to drill and extract a broken stud!
Dave
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jwold
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Joined: September 30, 2008
Posts: 2088
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 2:34 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah...so what do you do once you've broken off a small drill bit inside the rusted nut?
Dealing with that little nugget right now...grrr |
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Max T.
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Joined: September 18, 2009
Posts: 186
Location: So Cal
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| Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 3:04 pm Post subject: |
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| jwold wrote: |
Yeah...so what do you do once you've broken off a small drill bit inside the rusted nut?
Dealing with that little nugget right now...grrr |
I assume your talking about the stud that the nut is on. First come to terms that the nut and stud are junk. That makes the following easier to swallow.
Cut an "x" or "+" across the face of the nut and stud. A die grinder works great. If you dont have one use a cold chisel, just make sure the indentations are deep. This gives you a center to start drilling out the broken drill bit.
Purchase a cobalt, carbide, or diamond drill bit and drill that puppy out.
Most causes of broken bits in studs is heat. That's why you need to keep the cutting oil flowing when the bit is digging. |
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jwold
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Joined: September 30, 2008
Posts: 2088
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 3:05 pm Post subject: |
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oops...sorry.
Rusted 'bolt', below the line...this is actually the bolt that holds on the running board, not an engine. |
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bigbore
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Joined: December 19, 2003
Posts: 3297
Location: Wasilla Alaska
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| Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 3:13 pm Post subject: |
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There are defiantly trix to doing it and I have been at it for over 30 years and I rarely break bolts off anymore but I go though alot to keep from doing it from heat to grinding away part of the nut to spliting the nut. I get them in here weekly in my shop guy's break off bolts some a drill bit some a tap on (the best one ) a eazy out I get extra to get them out.
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Max T.
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Joined: September 18, 2009
Posts: 186
Location: So Cal
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| Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 3:32 pm Post subject: |
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| jwold wrote: |
oops...sorry.
Rusted 'bolt', below the line...this is actually the bolt that holds on the running board, not an engine. |
Running board, engine, trans, whatever. Same principle applies.
Go at it easy, don't force or rush the bit. |
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W1K1
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Joined: March 04, 2004
Posts: 5293
Location: Southern AB
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| Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 3:40 pm Post subject: |
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The welder is handy when trying to extract studs. You can weld a nut on the broken stud and the heat will help remove the stud as well.
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tundrawolf
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Joined: February 24, 2009
Posts: 1384
Location: RIP Mishomi my friend. I will always love you.
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| Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 4:15 pm Post subject: |
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| What if the stud is recessed inside the hole? |
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gt1953
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Joined: May 08, 2002
Posts: 13947
Location: White Mountains Arizona
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| Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 6:03 pm Post subject: |
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Rusttite is some tuff stuff. Here in dry Aridzona we have some from time to time. Quality penetrating oil, time and more penetrating oil, more time. Like was mentioned know your limitations on bolt and nut snappage.
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