Break-in, oil, and filter

damicotile · Posted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 10:35 pm Post subject: Break-in, oil, and filter

It's been a long process working weekends to get to this moment.
I am ready to start and break-in my 2276.
2 questions:

1. Should I use the Wix 51515R full flow filter for the cam break-in or could I use a less expensive filter for this and then use the Wix?
I know, stop rolling your eyes Rolling Eyes

I just wanted to know if you could.
I think I know the answer.

2. I am going to use Brad Penn oil for this motor always.
Do I use the break-in oil just for the cam break-in and then switch to the regular Penn oil or do I use the break-in oil for a couple of oil changes?

I don't want this to happen again.

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Guido
_________________
'73 SB
82x94
W-120 w/ CB light weight lifters
Silicon bronze sleeves
Scat 1.25:1
CB H-Beams
Straight cuts
42x37 Steve Tims
44 IDF's
9.2:1
A-1 Sidewinder coated

__________________________________

djkeev · Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 5:06 am Post subject:

Break in is very controversial and opinionated.
You'll get about as many answers to this question as there are people reading it!!

Search these forums, break in methods have been covered extensively and not worth rewriting them again.

Search other engine based forums, same thing.

Search with a general google search and you'll spend days reading.

VW had a recommended break in procedure as well.

Educate yourself on the many many many options and then make an educated decision to do what YOU feel is correct.
Once you make that decision, embrace it for you only get but one shot at it. There an NO do overs!!

Dave
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gooser · Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 5:42 am Post subject:

good choice with the brad penn. since the stuff is not available locally on my mg i used the break in oil for the the initial fire up and zddp additive added into regular oil for subsequent oil changes. the jury is still out on whether this is necessary but i figure it can't hurt. spend a few more bucks and get the good kind of oil filter for the fire up. if you have a problem in the future you'll always be second guessing yourself.

damicotile · Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:13 pm Post subject:

I got the w30 break-in oil for the cam break-in and will use the same oil for the next 500 miles and then switch to the 10-30w as that is the only weight they have that is that low. I should be fine.
It all happens this weekend.
_________________
'73 SB
82x94
W-120 w/ CB light weight lifters
Silicon bronze sleeves
Scat 1.25:1
CB H-Beams
Straight cuts
42x37 Steve Tims
44 IDF's
9.2:1
A-1 Sidewinder coated

__________________________________

junior55 · Samba Member Joined: October 01, 2006 Posts: 941

You do not want a lot or any detergent in your break-in oil if you can avoid it. Detergent is counterproductive during break-in.

At the risk of being another opinionated poster on this matter, save your Bad penn oil for after the break-in.

Choose a quality labled "break-in lube".. most are fortified with all the
phosphorous and zinc you'll need but will run you about $8 a quart for top notch stuff.

If you have depleated your wallet on your build and want to power that baby up... (secret!)

Go to Home Depot and get a quart of "OATEY pipe thread cutting oil" for
$5 then top-off with NON-detergent W20-30 standard oil.
Run this blend for 500 or so miles. Wink

Lifters: A poor quality lifter running in a high demand situation will pitt
no matter what oil you use. Structural breakdown of metal is not the same as wear.
High demands on magnesium bores is not the best long term idea, however a good oil will help in this situation if you can't $leeve them.

ok.... enough POLLY !

74 Thing · Samba Member Joined: September 02, 2004 Posts: 7395

I used the break in oil in my new engine and just changed the filter after the initial cam break in and then ran it up and down hills hard to seat the rings then ran it for about 100 miles and changed the filter and oil and cleaned the screen and went to the 0w30 Brad Penn.

I will only know if the lifters are holding up when I tear it apart but I have 4k on it right now and all seems well.

Good luck.

DarthWeber · Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 5:13 pm Post subject:

I think use of proper break in oil is critical. With the temps we are having here in So-Cal right now you can probably get away with 30W oil for break in although I'm a believer in Berg's (and VW's) old method of using light weight oil, 20W non-detergent. VW actually used 10W back in the day for break-in and the first few hundred miles.

Beyond the oil debate, I think one of the more important things is to not run too much valve spring pressure on break-in. The engine is under no load and running at only 2k - 2.5k RPM max. If you have dual springs or even HD singles I would use just the outer springs from the duals or swap your new springs out for a set of old stock springs. This would be just for cam/lifter break-in, before driving the car. You don't need several hundred pounds of pressure squashing the cam and lifter face together when new, you just need enough to achieve the work hardening of the surfaces.

junior55, I've read about using dark thread cutting oil for it's ZDDP content before but I've never seen any numbers on actual amounts of zinc and phosphorous. Any idea on the content, I'm sure it's well over 15 - 1600ppm.

miniman82 · Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 5:23 pm Post subject:

I broke my engine in on 15W-40 Rotella truck oil (SL rated), but now I use Mobil DELO 400 which is a 10W-30 oil also rated for heavy duty use.
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chrisflstf · Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 6:44 pm Post subject:

Brad Penn has Break-in oil also. Check it out

modok · Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 7:35 pm Post subject:

I build the engine on the loose side, and break it in driving like a madman, burnouts and all. The main thing is don't idle it, put some load on the rings and keep the rpms towards the middle of your range.

If you bearings are on the tight side you should use thin oil for break-in.
The great Berg said 20wt for break in, with .0027-.0037 rod bearing clearance, and let me tell you that's loose!
I'd loose the 30wt unless you built it loose.

You got those cb lifter bro, no worries. Add a splash of Zinc potion to your oil if you feel the need.

perrib · Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 9:02 am Post subject:

My Brad Penn supplier who main bussiness is building hi dollar V8s had me use Brad Penn 10/40 and a bottle of Comp Cams break in lube as a substitute for ther break in 30 wt. I switched to Udo Becker cam followers and don't worry about lifter wear. The last Web cam and Web lifters with Brad Penn oil lasted 2000 miles so far the new (same grind) Web cam and Udos have 5000 miles on them. I'll be swapping cams soon and post pictures. You wn't need extra ZDDP after the initial breaking period. Jake Raby had an interesting post with a study of amount ZDDP vs engine wear.

ALB · Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 11:27 am Post subject:

1970t1vert · Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 6:20 pm Post subject:

What lifters were in the engine that went sour?

damicotile · Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 6:54 am Post subject:

03OrangeSVT · Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 7:05 am Post subject:

Whatever you do, do not use synthetic oil during break in... if you do the rings wont seat correctly and you'll get a large amount of blowby.

Lucas also makes a break in oil.
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damicotile · Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 7:33 am Post subject:

03OrangeSVT · Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 7:52 am Post subject:

Since you already have 3 quarts of break in oil you "should" be ok, I was refering to running nothing but synthetic.
_________________
74 Bug... undergoing complete build
03 SVT Focus Comp Orange 365whp 315wtq
03 SVT Focus Screaming Yellow .. sorta stock
96 Mystic Cobra .... a few boltons

Randy in Maine · Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 8:19 am Post subject:

It is only in there for 100 miles anyway. Then you will drain it and then change out the filter.

damicotile · Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 9:20 am Post subject:

I haven't even ran it yet. I am going to do the cam breakin now but don't want to start it if what i did is wrong.

Any builder out there who want to chime in, please do.
I still have an hour before I start it for the first time.
_________________
'73 SB
82x94
W-120 w/ CB light weight lifters
Silicon bronze sleeves
Scat 1.25:1
CB H-Beams
Straight cuts
42x37 Steve Tims
44 IDF's
9.2:1
A-1 Sidewinder coated

__________________________________

grimace007 · Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 10:42 am Post subject:

your fine... break that baby in and listen to it PURRRRR

your over thinking it man... 1 qt of semi syn wont hurt your break in procedures.
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68 sedan

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