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GoWesty Stainless Steel Exhaust questions
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keithwwalker
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 7:02 pm    Post subject: GoWesty Stainless Steel Exhaust questions Reply with quote

Just got the Gowesty stainless system for installation on my 1.9 Doka (yes I have a 2.1 engine mount as well that is required for installation).

I have a few questions about the system itself and also installation:

First, it is apparent the tubing is stainless steel (probably 430ss), but not so sure of the flanges. Does anyone know if the flanges are stainless as well?

I plan on getting pickling paste to clean the heat affected zone of the welds. That is why I need to know if the flanges are stainless or not. Pickling paste will restore the chromium to the surface of the HAZ of the weld zones and have better long term corrosion resistance than the as welded condition.

Second, it has been a while since I have done an installation. I was wondering if you use any gasket sealant on the following:
Head to pipe gaskets
Head pipe to 2into1 pipe
Ring seals at J-pipe (I don't think so, but might as well ask)

Third and final: My exhaust brackets for the original steel system are of questionable condition. Can the gewesty system do without them?

Grey Vanagon

Thanks
KWW
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keithwwalker
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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bump:

Can anyone advise on hi-temp gasket sealant for the flange gaskets?
Yes or no?
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loctite makes a 2400 degree flange sealant for stream boilers.
I use it, it works great.
It is NOT hi temp RTV in the little tube at FLAPs.

It only comes in large tubes that fit in a chalking gun and is about $60 a tube.
I have been asked about it before, I couldn't find a number on the tube.
My plumber got it for me.
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raoul mitgong
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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

400 series SS is only slightly magnetic, mostly. 300 is not. Check it with a magnet.
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keithwwalker
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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I guess I had a brain fart on that one!

raoul mitgong wrote:
400 series SS is only slightly magnetic, mostly. 300 is not. Check it with a magnet.
-d
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keithwwalker
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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Follow up response on the flange/gasket sealant - do you think catalyst contamination is an issue?

Thanks
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keithwwalker
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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

insyncro wrote:
Loctite makes a 2400 degree flange sealant for stream boilers.
I use it, it works great.
It is NOT hi temp RTV in the little tube at FLAPs.

It only comes in large tubes that fit in a chalking gun and is about $60 a tube.
I have been asked about it before, I couldn't find a number on the tube.
My plumber got it for me.


McMaster, Aircraft Spruce and others sell Loctite 510 (Red) good to 400F
Then there is Loctite 5920 (Copper) which is good to 600F
Then there is Loctite 30558 (Black) which is good to 600F (this is the stuff in the caulking tube.

The 30558 is only $22 for 7 oz. That should be enough for the project!
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geo_tonz
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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So is Go Westy not answering any of your questions?

Also the description on the site:
Quote:
100% USA-made stainless steel exhaust system


Also I think it would be pretty difficult to weld non-stainless flanges to a stainless pipe, but maybe I'm wrong.
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keithwwalker
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2014 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The flanges and pipe are both very magnetic. I think 400 series SS is magnetic anyway, so that doesn't mean it isn't SS.
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keithwwalker
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 1:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Almost done with the GoWesty exhaust installation and noticed that the rear heat shield (which the pressurized coolant bolts to) is different for the 1.9 (my doka), and the 2.1.

Since the GoWesty exhaust uses the 2.1 rear engine mount (which has cast in bosses for the two muffler straps), I got a used 2.1 mount (along with new rubber mounts) and installed that.

But there is absolutely no way that the 1.9 heat shield can be bolted in now, since it blocks off the 2.1 muffler mounts.

I don't want to go back to the 1.9 mount as I like the simplicity of the 2.1 with the built in tabs for the muffler brackets.

So I have two choices, cut the bottom of the 1.9 shield or buy a 2.1 shield.

Question on the 2.1 shield, there are gaps for the muffler mounts but in the center bottom section there looks to be a bolt hole for attaching to something. It is not there on the 1.9 shield.

Can anyone tell me what that bolt hole attaches to?

Here's a photo of a 2.1 heat shield:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I don't want to buy a 2.1 shield just to cut it up, I can do that to the 1.9 shield; but if I can fir the 2.1 shield and not have it rattle around that would be best.

Wink
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Vanagonlife
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 10:17 am    Post subject: 2.1 heat shield Reply with quote

The center slot hole on the 2.1 heat shield shown mounts to a stud that sticks out from the 2.1 mustache bar. Dead center on the 2.1 bar.
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've cut the center section off a 2.1 heat shield before without any ill effects over many miles. Sometimes they just don't fit right.....

This is NOT the right way to do it, but if it won't fit, and your only option is to remove the center section (say it's all dented and bent...), be sure to cut it back far enough that it doesn't contact anything.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am notching the 1.9 heat shield to work with the 2.1 engine mount (cast in muffler bosses interfere). Basically 2.5" in from the centerline of the bolt hole is the edge of the vertical notch; and 3"wide slot which rises 2.5" above aforementioned bolt hole. (photos to follow).
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erdonline
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You didn't mention any other fitment issues, but I'm wondering how well the GoWesty system bolted together and how well the flanges fit to the head. My mechanic is installing a rebuilt engine and has it on the stand to install the GoWest system. He said that it does not fit on well at all and he thinks he needs to heat and bend and file the flanges. GoWesty was not available by phone when he called, but I got in touch with them, and they say that they have never had a system returned for a bad fit. They claim that it is necessary to bolt up everything loosely and it will fit.

What have others' experiences been with the GoWesty install?

Thanks,
Ed
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 6:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Exhaust systems should be assembled loose and tightened slowly.
I have not had any issues with mounting ANY exhaust system this way on a waterboxer.
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jetpoweredmonkey
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zero issues with fit on my van. Dansk pipes are another story.

It's imperative to assemble everything loosely before any fasteners are tightened. This goes for any exhaust system.
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