Proper exterior painting procedure? updated

[curtis4085]

Good Day everyone. Wanted to gain some insight on the porper procedure for exterior painting vehicle exterior for restoration.

My previous understanding is that on the proper or most used procedure is
- prep surface ( we stripped to bare metal)
- prime / guide coat
- sand
- 3 to 4 coats color
- 2 coasts clear coat
- and then a buff and sand with fine fine grit

Now I have never done this, but have had other vehicles painted by body shops ( just parts not whole vehicle) and this is the usual that i was told this was the norm. and last place i went Toyota dealer they did same process.

Now here is my question. THe new place doing my bus said if done right they should not have to sand or buff clear coat at all. They do have the proper down draft booth, heated with all the bells and wistles but can they really keep it smooth and without imperfection needing buffing. I just do not see it being possible. BUt again I have never done this before and these guys do high end BMw and Mercedes .

Whats your professional opion? thank you for your input.
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Special Thanks to:
Headflow Masters - Vista, CA
www.headflowmasters.com

[djkeev]

If the painter can lay down a good final coat with out any sags, drips or orange peel, you should be golden. No need to sand when the final coat is perfect!! Maybe you've stumbled upon an excellent painter?
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[curtis4085]

[lumber-baron]

Sounds like you've found a good painter, 2 coats of clear is plenty. I assume you're having the bus painted, if you don't mind me asking, how much does a paint job like this cost?

[curtis4085]

[exciter]

That dosnt sound to far out if line. And if the painter is a good painter normally for a nice paint job you wont need to wet sand and buff . So I would ask to see some of his work if possible and make your own judgment call but sounds like he knows what hes doing. Good luck and keep us posted on the progress.
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Joe

419-236-9781

[curtis4085]

ok so went by painter today and they had painted the bus over the weekend. Over all it looks good. There are a few issues that need to be addressed and would appreciated any feedback. I would like to have the best knowledge to be able to approach the body shop for the proper spit shine.
Here the issue. Has couple runs and some dust in clear coat, the dust is not bad but probably normal for any good job. that has yet to be buffed out. guessing here on that. questions is what is scuff and buff procedure? what are the tools needed grits/ compounds? want it to be smooth and free of defects. also has some small cat eyes , which i am guessing will come out in the scuff and buff?

Finally my main issue is where the large side panel meets the rear qt panel there is that verticle seam there. It oringinally had some sort of body caulk and still has it but after the paint job some cracks int the caulk showed up. they are about 12 inches in length and near bottom of panels. What would be the best fix at this point being that the whole thing has been painted. Note the painter said he missed it and should have delt with it. I want the best possible fix without hopefully having to strip big large panels and repainting. Been a bit stressful as it is 7k job but it also is a 35 year old bus that im guessing will have some flaws as do new vehicles. All input appreciated

_________________
Special Thanks to:
Headflow Masters - Vista, CA
www.headflowmasters.com

[lumber-baron]

If the try to replace the seamsealer it will most likely chip the surrounding paint leadin to a bigger repair and the possibility of a visible blend where the paint would be feathered into the existing. Perhaps they could fill the small crack with seamsealer and just repaint the seam. A good painter should be able to pull that of and since the seam is a depression there wouldn't be an issue with a blend line.

[schell '59]

...the price is spot on...as for the nit pickin'...can't see much with the pics.

the seam sealer should have be removed then reappilied with a newer type that has a flex agent...this will allow the body and panels to move and not stress the paint to much from shrinkage and expansion...the paint will flex to an extent on the seam sealer but only to a certian degree,as for painting just the seam..not smart as the tape line is unavoidable...better off fixing the seam,blending out the color and reclearing the panel...super super easy.


looks great...now does this include full dis-ssambly and re-asseembly?

and as for the sand and buffing..factory new cars have minor dirt and peel as well...keep in mind your paint job will shrink..i can garrantee it.

it will "tighten" up will some bursts in the sunlight and it will cause the paint to lightly dye back and look even more coarse...have them take out any minor dirt and depending upon how "deep" you want it have them cut it with 1500-2000 grit wet and buff it.

...anyone can spray a car...seriously,my wife has sprayed and even a 14yr old student/apprentice...the thing it how good can one get it right out of the booth/garage and how much work is needed to make it to the "nines".

this is up to you...if this job is just for paint and you are putting it together and took it apart,i would have them color sand and buff it.

if this helps settle your mind...this is a bay bus i did 3yrs ago for a local guy..was around $6800:

http://401restos.com/currentp.aspx
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[lumber-baron]

A good painter would have no problem putting a "soft edge" in the seam. Once they start blending it'll never be right. It looks like a great paint job otherwise. What does the painter suggest?

[skills@eurocarsplus]

[schell '59]

thanks Skills'

why do i say the way to fix it the way i explained?....cuz sometimes what sounds easier, is actually the harder route.

example:
..kinda like fixing chips in a front bumper...d/a it and light prime just the area,you can blend certain sections and try and get it to fly but over time youll see the blend.

...when it fact it's easier to sand the complete bumper with a blend prep and solution, then d/a the chips,light prime,sand and re paint then entire bumper end to end...

...un tape it and deliver it...knowing full well it will not dye back,peel or dis-color cuz of the blend,and yes all blend fade and show rings reguardless how much the guy feels like a hero.

either way it doesn't matter how much it costs or what process is needed to fix...cuz that IS the painter problem for not aaddressing the issue in the first place.
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WWW.401RESTOS.COM

see my "gallery" for more pics other than the website.