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Type 4 oil cooler
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kubicixfactor
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 2:50 pm    Post subject: Type 4 oil cooler Reply with quote

Hi folks. Is there any way to test an oil cooler? No leaks on mine and it looks ok but wondered whether this is something that should always be replaced when rebuilding?
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maximan1
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

People told me to have it flushed at a radiator shop before reinstalling it, but I didn't and no problems so far.
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Lil Lulu
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can never get it all out. Buy a new one. Why chance it?
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might try to fashion something like this....but easy on the compressed air please.

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=TZE0101&cartid=0109201147878334

If there was any shrapnel in the oil from the previous engine's destruction, it might be a good idea to replace it.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

why did you take the orginal engine apart? What was the failure. You don't want to reuse it if you had any kind of bearing failure.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 11:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cooler should primarily see clean filtered oil, so it shouldn't normally ever have anything it in. But if you blew up the old engine you shouldn't chance it and should just replace the cooler as a matter of course.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
The cooler should primarily see clean filtered oil, so it shouldn't normally ever have anything it in. But if you blew up the old engine you shouldn't chance it and should just replace the cooler as a matter of course.


Concur. There is a bypass that can open if the filter gets clogged. With an engine failure it is reasonable to expect debris to possibly get past the filter. All it takes is a few tiny particles to trash an engine. Let us know what you decide to do.
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mikemiller
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 1:15 pm    Post subject: oil cooler Reply with quote

i have a 76 westy with f\i and its the 2.0l as well and i have a leak in the oil cooler. and i was wondering if i can pull it out without pulling the motor
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 1:22 pm    Post subject: Re: oil cooler Reply with quote

mikemiller wrote:
i have a 76 westy with f\i and its the 2.0l as well and i have a leak in the oil cooler. and i was wondering if i can pull it out without pulling the motor


Not all that easy but yes. First you want to make sure it is the cooler that is leaking. I would guess that most leaky coolers end up being a leaky oil pressure switch instead. The switch is very easy and cheap to replace.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It can be done, but it is a little awkward to do it.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=352137
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 7:52 pm    Post subject: Re: oil cooler Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
mikemiller wrote:
i have a 76 westy with f\i and its the 2.0l as well and i have a leak in the oil cooler. and i was wondering if i can pull it out without pulling the motor


Not all that easy but yes. First you want to make sure it is the cooler that is leaking. I would guess that most leaky coolers end up being a leaky oil pressure switch instead. The switch is very easy and cheap to replace.


is the switch off to the left of the oil cooler if your under the engine. because when i bought it last summer i drove it home and the spot it left was bigger then when i looked when i picked it up. and i just thought the gasket may have been set improperly or it got to hot
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

not meaning disrespect - do you have your Bentley manual yet?

The oil sender is in a hole in the tin near the distributor. When it leaks it drips on the left side. So do loose heads (cylinder leak) and bad pushrod seals. Don't be eager beaver to pull it out until you locate the leak source. Clean it up really well and use a dye and dye detector if you have to.
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Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
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mikemiller
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:04 pm    Post subject: oil cooler Reply with quote

none taken my friend. and no i have been going to the library to use it. i know i need to get one. and the dummy guide only gets so far into any project. but the oil comes down the oil filter and down the side of the space where u get your hand in their to tighten the oil filter. i have put it on a lift and searched everywhere. and its just that small area over the filter that gets wet.
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well those housings crack too. I would start with the oil sender and buy a new rubber boot for it too as the old one will be rotted.
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Rolling Eyes Canned Water - the new California approved parts cleaner (except in a drought in which case rub it with sand). Rolling Eyes

George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."

Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice" Rolling Eyes

1971 deluxe (sold)
1977 deluxe
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The oil pressure switch/sender is pretty much directly over the oil filter. So any oil leaking from the sender ends up right on top of the filter and cooler.

A leaky sender is even hard to spot when you are looking directly down into the hole where the sender sits as visibility is never that good when the distributor and all the hoses and wires are in place.
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mikemiller
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:12 pm    Post subject: oil cooler Reply with quote

will do thanks for the tip. seeing that i live in WI as soon as it gets above freezing i will put that at the top of my list. i just figured while i have the alt. off i would see how hard it was to get at the oil cooler
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 10:27 pm    Post subject: Re: oil cooler Reply with quote

mikemiller wrote:
will do thanks for the tip. seeing that i live in WI as soon as it gets above freezing i will put that at the top of my list. i just figured while i have the alt. off i would see how hard it was to get at the oil cooler


wait
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George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."

Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice" Rolling Eyes

1971 deluxe (sold)
1977 deluxe
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kubicixfactor
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I split the case to check the bearings after a head failure last year (valve guide failed). There wasn't any visible bearing damage but i replaced all bearings as a precaution. I was plagued by a very high oil temp so I think I'll play safe and replace the cooler. Thanks for advice as always.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kubicixfactor wrote:
I split the case to check the bearings after a head failure last year (valve guide failed). There wasn't any visible bearing damage but i replaced all bearings as a precaution. I was plagued by a very high oil temp so I think I'll play safe and replace the cooler. Thanks for advice as always.


Better safe than sorry with all that work you have done. If you are still plagued with him temps you might check your tin to be sure it is all in order. Also triple check the action of the flaps. It has been in the 40's here (F) and our oil has been 160F to 180F.
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Rolling Eyes Canned Water - the new California approved parts cleaner (except in a drought in which case rub it with sand). Rolling Eyes

George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."

Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice" Rolling Eyes

1971 deluxe (sold)
1977 deluxe
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kubicixfactor
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for that advice. I'll be posting the tin and flaps setup as I reassemble to make sure there are no obvious problems.
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