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Quick pop top painting questions
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Chocolatewagon
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine turned out great with no primer, just two coats of Petit Easypoxy and roll-and-tip application, light sanding with 220grit between. The top had fibers showing before painting. Basically the same product as the Interlux. I bought one quart and had paint left over. Also used a bit of "brushing thinner" from Petit. Note that there are two kinds, brushing and spraying. Painted the bolts separately because I had the top off to install a new canvas. Love the new three window canvas. If you do that, go for the higher priced one from BusDepot. The cheaper one was cheezy and didn't fit well, so had to return it.
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blackglasspirate
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! It's definitely better than before.

I'm not really sure if primer is necessary or not, maybe someone else can answer that? If so, one coat should be enough. Just make sure you sand it pretty good to get out any lines. The primer seems to be thicker, drys faster, and isn't self leveling, so it's really easy to end up with lines.
I did have to open up my 2nd quart of top coat, but only because I dropped my roller pan and spilled the last of my 1st quart onto my driveway. For me, 1 quart was enough for a thin first coat and a fairly generous second coat.

For the rolling, a small closed cell foam roller worked great. As for the tipping, I'd recommend a soft bristled brush over a foam brush. It just seemed to work better for me. If you have time/money to replace the cleats on the luggage rack, do it. Those were the biggest hassle for me and it was hard to get the paint leveled.

Just remember to do small patches, like others mentioned, for the rolling and tipping. I watched some videos online before trying it out.

That's all the advice I can think of for now, but feel free to ask me any other questions.
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blackglasspirate
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahh, well there you have it, no primer necessary.
I painted the luggage rack screws separately, since I took it off. One thing I noticed was I had to be careful when tipping the bolts on the top. Sometimes it seemed to leak streaks and not level out as much as on the fiberglass.
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j_dirge
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

blackglasspirate wrote:
Ahh, well there you have it, no primer necessary.
I painted the luggage rack screws separately, since I took it off. One thing I noticed was I had to be careful when tipping the bolts on the top. Sometimes it seemed to leak streaks and not level out as much as on the fiberglass.

With these marine paints.. primers are used where the old surface is in poor shape... and where adhesion may be questionable (waxes, oils and other surface contaminants, such as wax laden resins for sanding)

In theory, the primer has better adhesion and penetrating properties.. and can tolerate more (than less) contaminants in the prepped surface.
In practice (and observed in my limited personal experience) the newer one part epoxy/enamel marine paints have great penetrating and adhesion properties.

So.. where the old surface is not rotten... primer may not be necessary.

Also, in theory, the primer is less expensive.. you spend less to cover up the old surface.

It certanly does not hurt to prime.. and odds are you will get a better final finish in fewer coats when you have first layed down some primer.


Your finished top looks good bgpirate!
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blackglasspirate
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

j_dirge wrote:


Your finished top looks good bgpirate!



Thanks! Now it's one thing to check off of the list.
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ragnarhairybreeks
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Started my own pop top painting, first coat on the luggage rack.

before

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the paint

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after one coat

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alistair
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blackglasspirate
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice! Even after the first coat it looks much better. That brightside sure makes it shiny.
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ragnarhairybreeks
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

blackglasspirate wrote:
Nice! Even after the first coat it looks much better. That brightside sure makes it shiny.


It does, and I was worried about just how white the white would be. As is, out in the sun, it looks pretty good. I got a first coat on the main top today.

before
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and after one coat
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I think I have enough paint left over (started with one US quart) to do the second coat on both luggage rack and main top.

alistair
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blackglasspirate
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Definitely looking sharp. I think one quart is enough to do two coats, as long as you don't put it on too heavy or knock over your roller pan like I did Confused
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ragnarhairybreeks
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

blackglasspirate wrote:
Definitely looking sharp. I think one quart is enough to do two coats, as long as you don't put it on too heavy or knock over your roller pan like I did Confused


Yup, one quart was enough. I didn't spill the roller pan but did tip it when I had it in my hand and was leaning over to have a look.... doh. Only a little spilled.

I scuffed the first coat then laid down the second. Painting white on white in the sun is a chore. Of course the painting gods led me to believe that there weren't many bugs or dust around when I did the first coat... they were waiting for the final coat.

The interlux brightsides paint I used sets up firm to touch in about 2 hrs. It levels out pretty nicely too.

alistair

edit: some pics

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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greenplasticme
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ragnarhairybreeks wrote:
blackglasspirate wrote:
Definitely looking sharp. I think one quart is enough to do two coats, as long as you don't put it on too heavy or knock over your roller pan like I did Confused


Yup, one quart was enough. I didn't spill the roller pan but did tip it when I had it in my hand and was leaning over to have a look.... doh. Only a little spilled.

I scuffed the first coat then laid down the second. Painting white on white in the sun is a chore. Of course the painting gods led me to believe that there weren't many bugs or dust around when I did the first coat... they were waiting for the final coat.

The interlux brightsides paint I used sets up firm to touch in about 2 hrs. It levels out pretty nicely too.

alistair

edit: some pics

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Looks awesome! And you used no primer, correct?
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ragnarhairybreeks
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 6:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

yup, no primer. I power washed and sanded the top last fall. Was in the garage all winter. Before painting I filled in a couple of holes (long story) and a couple of deep scratches with some thickened epoxy. Those repairs were sanded fair, then I used a green scotchbrite pad on top, blew off the dust, then wiped down with a thinner soaked rag.

I put some stainless eye straps, 2″ Harken, on the luggage rack yesterday. I've been using them for a few years, I like them better than the stock footman's loop.

stock
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stainless eye strap
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alistair
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climberjohn
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Volks,

This is a great thread, thanks for sharing your hard won expertise and photos. I plan on doing this soon myself. Good stuff!

Cheers,
CJ
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OhChit
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question.. Not sure if others are having the same reason for painting their tops as I do.. I found that I was getting a wet carpet after heavy long rain falls. I would find some mold like stains on the inside of the roof, and took care of it with a bleach solution. I had thought that it was my Skylight seal so I replaced it. I no longer get a wet carpet. But now after monitoring the inside of the top after Rains. I'm finding that the inside roof of the top feels damp, and stains are starting again. I know that the skylight seal was leaking but now beleive that water is seeping through the fiberglass in some areas, seems like it's only in the area near the sklight where water puddles.. Anyone else having this problem. Would Painting it help to seal out this moisture / wetness?
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The marine urethane would seal the top.

Urethane paint ( Imron & other's) is like a rubber glove on whatever you are painting.

The paint job looks good Alistair.
I think perhaps I would have used a little longer haired roller to get more of the stippled effect of the original top.
More grainey maybe.
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OhChit
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Terry Kay wrote:
The marine urethane would seal the top.

Urethane paint ( Imron & other's) is like a rubber glove on whatever you are painting.



Thanks for the reply.. Is Imron a Brand? What other brands can be used to reseal my Top, and who sells them?
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dupont Imron,Petit,Interlux are all good urethane paints.
The Imron is avialable at any Dupont auto body supply house.
Interlux & Petit marine paint is available any any marine supply.
West Marine would be a good example.

PPG also has urethane paints--Delthane being one of them.
And all of these are good refiishing materials.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Volks,

Here is a quick general tip on buying most anything from West Marine.

They have a quite generous price match policy. If you can find a price from a legitimate brick and mortar store for less than what they charge, they will honor the lower price.

I just use this to save about $20 on buying a fuse box.

I would imagine this would apply to paint and most anything else.

My local store did not hassle me at all about this, I pretty much told him over the phone and they said "Sure, we can honor that price."

So, in these days of high priced marine parts, this could be a good option for us.

CJ
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

<<In theory, the primer has better adhesion and penetrating properties.. and can tolerate more (than less) contaminants in the prepped surface.>>

This is not true at all.
The adhesion and toleration of the primer to garbage on the surface of the primed area is exactly the same as the painted area.
It must be clean--period.
No wax, no grease.
Now, just to explain this a little better--and draw you a pefect picture
Take a can of WD-40, spray it all over your open fibered fiberglass pop top--and then try & prime it.
It's fish eye, and offer zero adhesion, just like the paint would--it will not stick.

There are 2 objectives in using primer.
One to fill, and one to seal--depending on what kind of primer your using.
That's all.

<<In practice (and observed in my limited personal experience) the newer one part epoxy/enamel marine paints have great penetrating and adhesion properties.>>

If the surface is mostly al opned fiberglass fiber's, it would be best to prime first.
Why?
Primers cheap.
The paint isn't.
You could load up opened up fiberglass cheaper than you could with paint.
This is what primer is for.

<<So.. where the old surface is not rotten... primer may not be necessary.>>

If you have a pristine top that your changing colors on--yes.
Scuff & shoot, or roll & brush.

<<Also, in theory, the primer is less expensive.. you spend less to cover up the old surface.>>

It is a lot less expensive--unless you want to zinc chromate , acid etch the top--then the Vari Prime is $89.00 a quart--not so cheap, but the best old suface locker you can buy--
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

climberjohn wrote:
Volks,

Here is a quick general tip on buying most anything from West Marine.

They have a quite generous price match policy. If you can find a price from a legitimate brick and mortar store for less than what they charge, they will honor the lower price.

I just use this to save about $20 on buying a fuse box.

I would imagine this would apply to paint and most anything else.

My local store did not hassle me at all about this, I pretty much told him over the phone and they said "Sure, we can honor that price."

So, in these days of high priced marine parts, this could be a good option for us.

CJ
Thanks CJ. So who has the cheapest price on the gallon of Interlux. I plan on buying a gallon of it this week Very Happy
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