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75 Westy FI noob
Samba Member
Joined: November 04, 2022
Posts: 330
Location: MidWest
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 Posted: Thu Dec 14, 2023 4:39 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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My pan was not leaking before I took it off. When I dripped the pan.. the gasket came to pieces whatever it was. Had thought it was paper, but maybe it was cork. I had to put a new one on there. It was rubber and seemed a bit too large.
I think I will try cork next.. |
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favguy
Samba Member
Joined: January 25, 2012
Posts: 236
Location: England
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| Posted: Fri Dec 15, 2023 7:40 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Bay courtesy light door switch question. Can those of you with these fitted to your front doors confirm if they have a rubber gasket between the switch and door frame and what it looks like. Not the late bay drivers side with multi terminal though, the simple 1 terminal one.
Thanks, Paul |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50359
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| Posted: Fri Dec 15, 2023 9:13 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| 75 Westy FI noob wrote: |
My pan was not leaking before I took it off. When I dripped the pan.. the gasket came to pieces whatever it was. Had thought it was paper, but maybe it was cork. I had to put a new one on there. It was rubber and seemed a bit too large.
I think I will try cork next.. |
The gasket for the differential section can be replaced with judiciously applied silicone, don't do this with the automatic section though. |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51172
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Fri Dec 15, 2023 11:10 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| favguy wrote: |
Bay courtesy light door switch question. Can those of you with these fitted to your front doors confirm if they have a rubber gasket between the switch and door frame and what it looks like. Not the late bay drivers side with multi terminal though, the simple 1 terminal one.
Thanks, Paul |
They all use a gasket, early ones are grey color, later they were black, it's the low profile version opposed to the one that forms a cup around the switch. There's a couple near the bottom of this pic:
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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favguy
Samba Member
Joined: January 25, 2012
Posts: 236
Location: England
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| Posted: Fri Dec 15, 2023 12:08 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| favguy wrote: |
Bay courtesy light door switch question. Can those of you with these fitted to your front doors confirm if they have a rubber gasket between the switch and door frame and what it looks like. Not the late bay drivers side with multi terminal though, the simple 1 terminal one.
Thanks, Paul |
They all use a gasket, early ones are grey color, later they were black, it's the low profile version opposed to the one that forms a cup around the switch. There's a couple near the bottom of this pic:
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Thanks for confirming that, do you know of anyone who supplies them at all? |
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KentABQ 
Samba Member
Joined: September 11, 2016
Posts: 2406
Location: Albuquerque NM
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| Posted: Sun Dec 24, 2023 10:26 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I've broken two exhaust support brackets in the past 8 years...
If I did a lot of offroading, I could understand this problem recurring. But I rarely go off pavement.
Has anyone else experienced this problem?
Has anyone come up with an alternate support method for the exhaust?
_________________
-Kent-
1976 Riviera, 1.8l FI chrome yellow VAN - "Chloe"
"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!" ---WildIdea
Bus ownership via emoticons:
         ---williamM |
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andrewtf
Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2011
Posts: 604
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Sun Dec 24, 2023 10:34 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I have the exact same issue currently.
My present solution is several loops of heavy wire 
_________________
'75 Riviera - 'BIG EMMA' (Pan American highway trip paused for a make over)
'77 Riviera - Murphy' (being reborn.... slowly)
'63 Austin Healey |
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KentABQ
Samba Member
Joined: September 11, 2016
Posts: 2406
Location: Albuquerque NM
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| Posted: Sun Dec 24, 2023 10:43 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| andrewtf wrote: |
I have the exact same issue currently.
My present solution is several loops of heavy wire |
Thanks Andrew I was considering something like that.
Possibly using stranded high tension wire.
I'm assuming the metal brackets are too brittle for this purpose.
But I don't remember enough from my metallurgy class (taken in 1985!) to know a better material to use.
_________________
-Kent-
1976 Riviera, 1.8l FI chrome yellow VAN - "Chloe"
"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!" ---WildIdea
Bus ownership via emoticons:
---williamM |
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brownbus2
Samba Member
Joined: October 13, 2020
Posts: 244
Location: Roanoke, VA
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| Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2024 12:11 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Does the Cold Start Valve assist in starting a FI bus when there are cold temps, or, is it required to operate in order to start a FI bus in cold temps?
_________________
formerly known as Brown_Bus
1976 FI Marino Yellow Westy |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51172
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2024 12:36 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| brownbus2 wrote: |
| Does the Cold Start Valve assist in starting a FI bus when there are cold temps, or, is it required to operate in order to start a FI bus in cold temps? |
Assist, unless it's -20, at those temps you might run out of battery before it fires enough to stay running.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50359
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| Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2024 1:31 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| brownbus2 wrote: |
| Does the Cold Start Valve assist in starting a FI bus when there are cold temps, or, is it required to operate in order to start a FI bus in cold temps? |
The cold start system is temperature sensitive so allows the CSV to operate longer the lower the temperature. The higher the temperature the less it is needed. It should not function at all when the engine temperature is above ~100°F. |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50359
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| Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2024 1:40 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| KentABQ wrote: |
| andrewtf wrote: |
I have the exact same issue currently.
My present solution is several loops of heavy wire |
Thanks Andrew I was considering something like that.
Possibly using stranded high tension wire.
I'm assuming the metal brackets are too brittle for this purpose.
But I don't remember enough from my metallurgy class (taken in 1985!) to know a better material to use. |
Wire is probably a good idea, on my early Vanagon with a 1.9L WBXer engine the exhaust was always cracking, so I designed a system with a lot of flex in it. It held the weight of the exhaust while not having rigid joints that would cause high stress in the system. I went from fixing something on the support for the exhaust every 10K miles to going 50K miles without having to do any repairs.
On at least some Porsches the bracket was chopped off right at the end of the adjustment slot and didn't attach to the exhaust at all. |
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KentABQ
Samba Member
Joined: September 11, 2016
Posts: 2406
Location: Albuquerque NM
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| Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2024 8:12 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Wildthings wrote: |
| KentABQ wrote: |
| andrewtf wrote: |
I have the exact same issue currently.
My present solution is several loops of heavy wire |
Thanks Andrew I was considering something like that.
Possibly using stranded high tension wire.
I'm assuming the metal brackets are too brittle for this purpose.
But I don't remember enough from my metallurgy class (taken in 1985!) to know a better material to use. |
Wire is probably a good idea, on my early Vanagon with a 1.9L WBXer engine the exhaust was always cracking, so I designed a system with a lot of flex in it. It held the weight of the exhaust while not having rigid joints that would cause high stress in the system. I went from fixing something on the support for the exhaust every 10K miles to going 50K miles without having to do any repairs.
On at least some Porsches the bracket was chopped off right at the end of the adjustment slot and didn't attach to the exhaust at all. |
Thanks Wildthings.
I haven't wired it up yet, but plan to do it before heading out to BBB.
A flexible support sounds like an excellent solution. I'll have to give that some thought.
_________________
-Kent-
1976 Riviera, 1.8l FI chrome yellow VAN - "Chloe"
"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!" ---WildIdea
Bus ownership via emoticons:
---williamM |
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Jalabert
Samba Member
Joined: December 06, 2005
Posts: 633
Location: On the coast in NZ, somewhere...
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| Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2024 11:19 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| What's so different about post '71 rear wheel bearings that they apparently require no service at all...and is it a good idea, if I've never done it - to repack the bearings anyway? Gotta think that 50-something year old grease has got to be less than optimal. |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50359
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| Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2024 11:26 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Jalabert wrote: |
| What's so different about post '71 rear wheel bearings that they apparently require no service at all...and is it a good idea, if I've never done it - to repack the bearings anyway? Gotta think that 50-something year old grease has got to be less than optimal. |
I add a bit more grease and replace the outer hub seal whenever I do brake work. Its a good idea to keep an eye on the inner seal to watch for leaking grease, as if grease can get out water will get in. |
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Jalabert
Samba Member
Joined: December 06, 2005
Posts: 633
Location: On the coast in NZ, somewhere...
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| Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2024 11:34 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Thanks WT, I'll get a couple of seals in stock for next time... |
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75 Westy FI noob
Samba Member
Joined: November 04, 2022
Posts: 330
Location: MidWest
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| Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2024 12:43 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Wildthings wrote: |
| 75 Westy FI noob wrote: |
My pan was not leaking before I took it off. When I dripped the pan.. the gasket came to pieces whatever it was. Had thought it was paper, but maybe it was cork. I had to put a new one on there. It was rubber and seemed a bit too large.
I think I will try cork next.. |
The gasket for the differential section can be replaced with judiciously applied silicone, don't do this with the automatic section though. |
I'm only doing the pan gasket at the moment (weather permitting).
The rubber one failed spectacularly. I think bc the holes are very small and the screws distort the gasket as they are tightened.
I've located a cork one and a paper one on ebay ... paper one is 5x the price ($20).
Which one would you recommend? Thanks ! |
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Hubster43
Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2013
Posts: 43
Location: Northern CA
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| Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2024 9:48 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| We have a 76 Westy that is pretty much stock except for hydraulic valves. Over the course of times we have changed between regular points and Petronix a few times for various reasons. About 6 months ago we made the switch back to Petronix and I adjusted the timing at that point. I used the technique suggested in which I revved the engine and set the timing. It seems to be running just fine since then, but I have noticed a drop in the mpg. Going from roughly around 17 to under 13 yesterday when I filled up. Also, the idle when the bus is nice and warmed up is definitely higher than it used to be and I assume higher than it should be. I am wondering if the two are related and any ideas on a fix. |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50359
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| Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2024 5:09 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| 75 Westy FI noob wrote: |
| Wildthings wrote: |
| 75 Westy FI noob wrote: |
My pan was not leaking before I took it off. When I dripped the pan.. the gasket came to pieces whatever it was. Had thought it was paper, but maybe it was cork. I had to put a new one on there. It was rubber and seemed a bit too large.
I think I will try cork next.. |
The gasket for the differential section can be replaced with judiciously applied silicone, don't do this with the automatic section though. |
I'm only doing the pan gasket at the moment (weather permitting).
The rubber one failed spectacularly. I think bc the holes are very small and the screws distort the gasket as they are tightened.
I've located a cork one and a paper one on ebay ... paper one is 5x the price ($20).
Which one would you recommend? Thanks ! |
I would probably use a very thin smear of silicone on a paper gasket, while a cork gasket should make up for any imperfections. If you have had a cork gasket in there previously then you may need to flatten the pan around the bolt holes as people tend to keep tightening a leaky cork gasket and eventually deform the pan. |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51172
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2024 5:27 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Hubster43 wrote: |
| We have a 76 Westy that is pretty much stock except for hydraulic valves. Over the course of times we have changed between regular points and Petronix a few times for various reasons. About 6 months ago we made the switch back to Petronix and I adjusted the timing at that point. I used the technique suggested in which I revved the engine and set the timing. It seems to be running just fine since then, but I have noticed a drop in the mpg. Going from roughly around 17 to under 13 yesterday when I filled up. Also, the idle when the bus is nice and warmed up is definitely higher than it used to be and I assume higher than it should be. I am wondering if the two are related and any ideas on a fix. |
Describe the timing procedure more specifically please.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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