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any one running a 34 pict carb with bigger venturis
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spencerfvee
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 3:47 pm    Post subject: any one running a 34 pict carb with bigger venturis Reply with quote

if any one is running a 34pict carb with bigger venturis . i would like to know how big of a venturi you used. and how did it run and what jets you used .and how big was the motor you ran your 34 pict on . any info would be great guys dont for get feb 14 or you will be sleeping on the floor lol make sure you buy a power ball ticket its 325.million big ones lol spencerfvee
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borninabus
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

there is only one venturi in a solex carb.
i ran a 1776 through a stock vent (26mm) and 130main 120air & 55idle.

when that engine died and i built a new one i figured out what a real carb was Wink
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earthquake
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The venturi is cast in to the body of a 34 PICT, it is not removable.
I think any time you see a "T" in the model [as in PIC"T"] it means a fixed vent.

Casey
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Alstrup
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 5:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wrong!
The 34 Pict has remaovable venturi.
Stock 1600, keep it stock.
For instance my 65 hp std plus runs a stock carb.
My 70 hp 1600 std plus runs a 28 mm venturi.
My 80 hp 1600 std plus runs a 30 mm venturi.
My 90 hp 1914 std plus runs a 30 mm venturi.
My 100 hp 2007 std plus runs a 30 mm venturi.
RMBīs 120 hp 2275 std plus runs without venturi, i.e. 32 mm choke.

T
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ALB
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alstrup wrote:
Wrong!
The 34 Pict has remaovable venturi.
Stock 1600, keep it stock.
For instance my 65 hp std plus runs a stock carb.
My 70 hp 1600 std plus runs a 28 mm venturi.
My 80 hp 1600 std plus runs a 30 mm venturi.
My 90 hp 1914 std plus runs a 30 mm venturi.
My 100 hp 2007 std plus runs a 30 mm venturi.
RMBīs 120 hp 2275 std plus runs without venturi, i.e. 32 mm choke.

T


Can you tell us more about those engine combos? Any carb mods needed (besides jet changes) to run the 28 or 30mm vents? Without the venturi?

Art Thraen (ACE in Salt Lake City?) has experience with using larger vents in the 34 as well.
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gt1953
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alstrup you are using the 34 solex carb center mount on those engines?
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PEPPE
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 8:58 am    Post subject: e Reply with quote

i' ve used and realized many big venturi 34 picts too. in france i've seen that they used to build a no-vent one too but they use also a secondary venturi feature, because the stock pipe discharge setup don't work so well without venturi at all, especially with smaller engines.
i was evaluating also a rebore of the throttle hole, installing a 36mm one. i ve read that some people in the past did it. the only problem is to find a suitable butterfly. i contacted some time ago a firm to have them custom built but was looking around to se if therewas something already made.
Alstrup, what do you think?
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Alstrup
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:07 am    Post subject: Re: e Reply with quote

PEPPE wrote:
i' ve used and realized many big venturi 34 picts too. in france i've seen that they used to build a no-vent one too but they use also a secondary venturi feature, because the stock pipe discharge setup don't work so well without venturi at all, especially with smaller engines.
i was evaluating also a rebore of the throttle hole, installing a 36mm one. i ve read that some people in the past did it. the only problem is to find a suitable butterfly. i contacted some time ago a firm to have them custom built but was looking around to se if therewas something already made.
Alstrup, what do you think?

RMB in Germany makes the carb bore mod, to 38 mm. 2 things to be aware of when making this mod.
1. An SVDA distributor doesnt work anymore due to the vacumsignal getting screwed.
2. You actually have to have some CCīs underneath the carb to make it worth the modification, - OR want higher rpm power, like above 5000 rpm. (Not peak power, but rpm power)

The challenge is getting the air through the end pieces so to speak.

It is correct that running without a venturi weakens the vacum signal to the aux venturi. but if you are above 2 liter the problem is less due to more volumentric efficiency. and you "need" to be above 2 liter to have a real benefit of doing that.
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Alstrup
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gt1953 wrote:
Alstrup you are using the 34 solex carb center mount on those engines?

Yes.
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Alstrup
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ALB.
Iīm sorry. The comboīs are proprietary. We have spent too much money to get there, so I have agreed with RMB to keep them to ourselves.

One of the reasons besides protecting our investment is that these engines have to be built very specific to work well. When we developed on them, it was an eye opener to see how much for instance a simple change in deck height did in ways of both temperature, power and emissions.

On the carb mod. No other mods needed besides jet changes.

T


Last edited by Alstrup on Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:19 am; edited 1 time in total
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PEPPE
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:18 am    Post subject: e Reply with quote

for that reason i was looking into the 36mm one. that should leave the carb fully operative. however no problem using also a 009.
my test engine for that project was a 2110, using also a CB manifold that i already used ona 1914 and a 34 with 29 venturi with good results.
thanks for the advice. in the eventuality i can also ask to RMB the parts.
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Motor7710
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alstrup wrote:
Wrong!
The 34 Pict has remaovable venturi.
Stock 1600, keep it stock.
For instance my 65 hp std plus runs a stock carb.
My 70 hp 1600 std plus runs a 28 mm venturi.
My 80 hp 1600 std plus runs a 30 mm venturi.
My 90 hp 1914 std plus runs a 30 mm venturi.
My 100 hp 2007 std plus runs a 30 mm venturi.
RMBīs 120 hp 2275 std plus runs without venturi, i.e. 32 mm choke.

T

I'm running 34 Pict 3 no venturi with 1904cc with tons of power! With that info you posted
I’m getting a pretty good idea why my new clutch is slipping! Rolling Eyes
Love to see what jet sizes you used on those combos!
If any body wants to try tihs mod all the data on how to do this mod is here.


Link


Link

It drives so smooth with and extra kick if you need it! Cool
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PEPPE
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alstrup wrote:
ALB.
, it was an eye opener to see how much for instance a simple change in deck height did in ways of both temperature, power and emissions.
T


my experience too, i had in the past the 1914 with the pict. later i used a 1776 very similar, but ran hotter. those are "difficult" engines. much more easy building a 1835 with dual webers and getting "easier" results.
but it is fun smoking dual carb engines then opening the engine lid an showing a simple pict.... Wink
i have also a stock enrst muffler with 38mm tubing...
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Alstrup
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Motor. Youre on the right track.

The carb will work much better if you make a "stack" to go on top of it. 65 mm would be purfect, 50 mm will do. The reason is that the carb pushes some of the fuel up above the carb and mixes it there before pulling it down again. (Also known as fuel stand off) If I do not use a super beetle airfilter, I use a "bus snout" and cut it to about 150 mm length and add a cone type filter like yours. You will notice that most of the stumble you refer to disappears due to the mix coming in as needed. The tube extension on the air supply to the bowl is a "different" Very Happy way of solving the problem. never thought of that. Apparently you are on the edge of the vacum signal, which I would also think, since you can get by the problem the way you did.

I never even considered using a vacum advance only distributor. (!) It might actually work as supposed. An SVDA dont, because the signal gets messed up.

And yes you are correct. Many people should run these types of engines over dual carbed ones due to the simple fact that too many people dont know how to adjust and trim duals and therefore do not get near full potential of their engine/investment apart from the bragging factor (Which must not be neglected)

The last 1914 std plus I built (had 92 hp & 160 Nm) was installed in a 69 1300 beetle with 3,88 R/P and 205/60x15 rears. It pulls from 18,5 mph to 80 mph (GPS) in third gear, in 29 seconds. That is from 1300 to - 5400 rpm.

Is your 1914 stock on the inside besides displacement, or have you spent som money there too?

T

Ps. The stumble can most likely also be reduced by enlarging the air correction jet slightly and at the same time go 0,5 or even 1 up in main jet. This way you get the fuel the main circuit "in motion" a little earlier.


Last edited by Alstrup on Sun Feb 12, 2012 1:35 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Buellistic
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How do you even get the venturi out of the sucker? I want to try this.

I have 2 options available to me for a 1914 build. Modified 34Pict-2 OR the progressive that caused the engine to rev itself to death in the first place.

EDIT: Just figured it out. So... nevermind!


Last edited by Buellistic on Sun Feb 12, 2012 11:01 am; edited 1 time in total
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earthquake
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry about my info being wrong, I read some where about the "T" [I think it was in the book "How to Hot Rod your VW"] and thought it applied to all the Solex 1 barrel carbs.

Casey
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 11:46 am    Post subject: Re: e Reply with quote

thats what i like about over seas vw guys . they allway offer good info . some guys are asking why i am wanting to use a 34 solex carb on my motor . over the years i have built a lot of vw motors . the one motor. that i allways think about. is a 1600 cc motor i built . i did not have much money when i built the 1600cc motor and i wanted to go raceing real bad . i cut the heads for 12.1 CR. stock valve heads mild port job .old EMPI full race cam and a 34 pict carb with no venturi. i put the 1600cc motor in a old pipe buggy . that was 1,300 LBS. it ran in the 1/4 mile 14.50s i shifted at 7,000 RPM. the buggy allway left with the frount wheels in the air . .i have built over the years dual carb motors. single weber 40s and 40 dellorto carb motors .and kadron dual carb motors . in my way of thinking any one can put a set of dual cabs on a motor and make it run well . same with a single weber or dellorto carb motor. but i think it would be fun to build a 34 solex motor . if it works great . if it dont work at least i tried it lol .i have a lot of brand new parts doing nothing . a 82mm crank and . rods 92mm thick wall pistions and cyls a set of ported heads 40mm by 35mm valves a v26 engle cam scat 1.2.1 rockers ported stock end castings and a CB solex intake manifold ported . i am going to talk about the carb and intake. on what i think might work best on my motor . i ported the CB intake manifold making the plenum chamber bigger under the carb . i found doing this. fools the motor into thinking it has a bigger carb feeding it . being that i am going to use a solex 34 carb . i am thinking of going with a 30mm venturi. because there is no booster venturi in a solex 34 pict carb. i dont want a carb that falls on its butt when you take off fast . my needs are. a motor that pulls hills in 4rth gear and does 85 mph. so i can pass on free ways .thats why i am useing a V26 cam it puts out a lot of low end power and pulls great in forth gear . and a V 26 cam is not hard on the valve train . after all i am, not building a race motor i am building a street motor . i do remmber talking to gary berg a long time ago and he said his dad put a solex 34 carb on a motor that was over 2,000cc the motor was i think in there parts bus and gary said it ran well i have to get going to our vw club meating i will get back later spencerfvee
PEPPE wrote:
for that reason i was looking into the 36mm one. that should leave the carb fully operative. however no problem using also a 009.
my test engine for that project was a 2110, using also a CB manifold that i already used ona 1914 and a 34 with 29 venturi with good results.
thanks for the advice. in the eventuality i can also ask to RMB the parts.
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earthquake
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How do you get the vent out? does it come out the bottom? I was looking at a Brocar 34 PICT 3 that I have on the shelf and it looks like you have knock the plug out of the body and remove the butterfly to get out. Is the Brocar the same as a real Solex?

Casey
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

earthquake wrote:
How do you get the vent out? does it come out the bottom? I was looking at a Brocar 34 PICT 3 that I have on the shelf and it looks like you have knock the plug out of the body and remove the butterfly to get out. Is the Brocar the same as a real Solex?

Casey


The Bocar 34 that I have is the same design as the German Solex 34 pict-3.

You have to remove the butterfly and throttle shaft to get the venturi out on both carbs.

Pop out the plug on the side and slide the Venturi out the bottom of the carb.

Here is a pic of the plug removed and the Venturi out.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 8:01 pm    Post subject: Re: e Reply with quote

like i said i ;like vw guys from over seas they allways have great imput . hi from USA to france thanks fpor the info on the 34 pict carb i sure wpould like to know more about how they installed a booster venturi in the 34 pict solex carb . i have herd that the formula vee guys used to bored out the throttle hole bigger again thanks for the info on the 34 pict carb spencerfvee.........
PEPPE wrote:
i' ve used and realized many big venturi 34 picts too. in france i've seen that they used to build a no-vent one too but they use also a secondary venturi feature, because the stock pipe discharge setup don't work so well without venturi at all, especially with smaller engines.
i was evaluating also a rebore of the throttle hole, installing a 36mm one. i ve read that some people in the past did it. the only problem is to find a suitable butterfly. i contacted some time ago a firm to have them custom built but was looking around to se if therewas something already made.
Alstrup, what do you think?
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