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zimad
Samba Member
Joined: August 24, 2010
Posts: 94
Location: New Zealand
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 Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2012 2:26 am Post subject: 69 RHD Notchback (New Zealand) |
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This is my 1969 Type 3 notchback which I have had for 2 years, the build is starting to get some speed, this is the story so far.
Hasn’t been on the road since the late 70′s, had been sitting in a shed until a few years ago.
Is pretty solid and original but still needs a bit of work to get it back on the road, hopefully will be all ready to go early next year.
It is of Aussie origin and was imported into nz in 1976, it is registered as a 69, but chassis number indicates 68.
It has the 4 stud wheels, 12volt and disc brakes up front, but still has swing axle rear and the early bumper, older 'bullet' shaped front indicators and the fuel filler is the very early edition with no interior release, manually opened with a finger pull.
Left hand side is all mostly in good nick. Body 90% stripped of parts, and disconnected from pan.
RH side will need some work, nice and rusty around fuel filler neck, and a previous repair needs replacing, also front bumper mounts.
RH rear inner guard/bumper mount needs work, and also the sill area just in front of rear wheel. Guard also needs some work, may see if I can source a replacement one.
Digging out an old repair done, back in Jun 1976, according to the cars log book. Front RH guard needs some repair work.
Body stripped down ready to be lifted.
Pan only left, looks pretty good.
Trailer loaded up.
Made up a quick and dirty frame for the body to sit on while rust repairs are done
Body Blasted
Petrol filler area is bad... I have replacement panel out of early model with no petrol filler, so petrol tank is getting converted to early under hood setup, so area under fender will not be a problem in future.
Rear Fender looks even worse than thought.
Laying on some primer as sun goes down.
pan stripped and removed as much of the tar board as i could, ugly stuff that it is.
Pan stacking away
Rear removed from pan
Next on list:
Few minor weld repairs to pan floor in the battery area.
Get the clutch tube reinforced
Modify the front beam mounts ready for type 1 beam ie cut the bottom few inches off!!
Sandblast
Powder coat mmmm
Pan has had its first blasting, now getting repairs to pan under the seats. And mods to frame head for new type 1 beam.
We have started to work on the front areas of the car.
Before
New early front clip with under bonnet fuel filler attached, bumper mounts done both sides.
Before
Outer skin removed (large hole)
Areas inside have now been stripped rust killed and painted
New skin tacked on
After a fare bit of work the right hand side front is pretty much done !!
Drivers side foot well area inside car
Under the bonnet all sorted out
Now to start on the left hand side, just small area to be sorted not as bad as rh side, replacement section overlaid for measure up .
Next job will be the sills,
Fun times  |
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Woreign
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2006
Posts: 2840
Location: Crestview FL
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zimad
Samba Member
Joined: August 24, 2010
Posts: 94
Location: New Zealand
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| Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2012 4:25 am Post subject: |
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Cheers for the welcome, yes looks easy when string progress together like that, that is really last 12 months work, has really mainly started to move forward since I got the body to my brother who owns a panel shop, he is completing all the rust work and paint for me.
I have also been following the t34 build amazing work, I think he is located in the top of the north island of nz I am in Christchurch which is in the south island.
Here is a photo from the day I got the notch home
I brought it off a friend who already has a notch, he got it and lowered it and found some replacement panels for it hence the multi colours but never had it on the road, was all still original when I got it off him, it has all the bumpers etc with it too.
This is my second type 3 my first was a 1965 notch with a 1800 type 4 motor, which I sold so I could buy this one. |
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dragsters for life
Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2011
Posts: 1155
Location: MELBOURNE, type 3 contingent
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| Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2012 4:55 am Post subject: |
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lovely notch i think i saw it on veedubnuts
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new t3c merch coming soon |
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zimad
Samba Member
Joined: August 24, 2010
Posts: 94
Location: New Zealand
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| Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 3:33 am Post subject: |
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| dragsters for life wrote: |
| lovely notch i think i saw it on veedubnuts |
Thanks , will been even sweeter once it is driveable again, Yes I have a build thread on our local forum nzveedubnuts
Not a massive amount of type 3's in NZ, so thought I would share on here so when I need to ask those questions about how to put it back together I have a thread to do so.
Last edited by zimad on Mon Sep 03, 2012 10:10 am; edited 3 times in total |
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zimad
Samba Member
Joined: August 24, 2010
Posts: 94
Location: New Zealand
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| Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 10:06 am Post subject: |
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Wheels for the notch 15"x5.5" 4 lug Cosmics, they are getting repaired at reconditioned at the moment.
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zimad
Samba Member
Joined: August 24, 2010
Posts: 94
Location: New Zealand
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| Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 9:50 pm Post subject: |
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My brother has moved his attention to the rear of the car
RH side rear bumper mount and side drain outlet – Before
After
RH side sill area - Before
After
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Shaven
Samba Member
Joined: September 17, 2006
Posts: 879
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 1:49 am Post subject: |
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awesome work... keep the pics coming 
_________________
the dc baggin is because its a well known fact that a restored sc will never be worth anywhere near what even a shitbox dc is |
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zimad
Samba Member
Joined: August 24, 2010
Posts: 94
Location: New Zealand
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| Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 3:33 am Post subject: |
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Visit to the powder coater today pan is all done. It has been blastered, zinc coated and final coat in gloss black. Which looks great but shows up a lot of the dents in the floor but that is to be expected since it is all orginal pan, no new halfs were added.
Pan head was cut down ready for type 1 beam and more ground clearance, hardened steel welded in to protect the base of the beam and pan.
I also had the clutch tube strengthened with extra welding to be safe before powder coating. |
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zimad
Samba Member
Joined: August 24, 2010
Posts: 94
Location: New Zealand
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| Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 9:18 pm Post subject: |
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New sills all folded and rolled to shape, old ones will be cut open today, will be interesting to see the state of things in behind!
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vlad01
Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2010
Posts: 3064
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 9:51 pm Post subject: |
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| did you know the sills curved like a banana? I assume these new ones are straight? you recon they will come together nice? I would be interested to see how it works. |
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racoguy
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Joined: May 15, 2010
Posts: 687
Location: new zealand
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vlad01
Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2010
Posts: 3064
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 6:07 am Post subject: |
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at least they are the fastest at rusting  |
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zimad
Samba Member
Joined: August 24, 2010
Posts: 94
Location: New Zealand
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| Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 2:42 pm Post subject: |
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Argh yes RUST we love it. Here's a little more for you
Rear drainage vents were rusted out on both sides of the car.
Drain insides all cleaned up and copper sprayed, New outer sections made up to match.
Right side all done also
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zimad
Samba Member
Joined: August 24, 2010
Posts: 94
Location: New Zealand
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| Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 4:37 am Post subject: |
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| racoguy wrote: |
| Haha waging war on rust like me, at least there's one thing T3's do well..........RUST |
Yes and t3 is a little easier than t34, will leave that to the master of fab work.
Rust glorious Rust here is a little more for you.
Didn't look much from the outside!
Nice and rusty underneath. Glad we didn't just fill the holes.
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vlad01
Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2010
Posts: 3064
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 5:29 am Post subject: |
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| oh that looks yummy |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 23517
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 7:17 am Post subject: |
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| racoguy wrote: |
| Haha waging war on rust like me, at least there's one thing T3's do well..........RUST |
Yeah, but regular t-3s rust in the usual spots, whereas the t-34 can rust where ever it feels like. At least that's what I've found. 
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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vlad01
Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2010
Posts: 3064
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 2:17 am Post subject: |
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| there is no usual spot on a type 3 either. I recon I seen them rust in just about any random area you can imagine. |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 23517
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 12:01 pm Post subject: |
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| vlad01 wrote: |
| there is no usual spot on a type 3 either. I recon I seen them rust in just about any random area you can imagine. |
Oh, I beg to differ. The usual spots are; the top of the headlights, upper and lower corners, along with the rear edge of the front fenders (and sometimes under the headlights), outer rocker skins, but sometimes inner too, the bottom of the inner sheet metal piece behind the rear fender (where the fender bolts on, to the rear of the rockers), the lower 4 inches in front and rear of each fender, the lower sheet metal behind the rear fender (or bumper mount metal on a Square or Fastback), the lower 2 inches of hood, and rear trunk lid (Notchback for sure, but could be possible on Fastbacks). Bumper mounts, and surrounding metal can be added too, along with both floor pan halfs.
Now, If you add in a sunroof, there are spots that are directly related to just having one of them like; sunroof tray rear corners, and the roof directly above them, "C" posts (inner, mid section, and outer), "A" posts below the water drains, and 2 inches around the sunroof opening.
Late cars (71 on) have another spot to add, and that's the box indent for the fresh air box. That box rusts out right along the floor joint of where the plastic box attaches (inside the trunk under the vinyl cover), and also goes in the floor of it.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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zimad
Samba Member
Joined: August 24, 2010
Posts: 94
Location: New Zealand
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| Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 3:53 pm Post subject: |
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This is my first type 3 resto project, but I agree most of the rust we are finding seems to be the same as what I have seen on other type 3 resto projects I have followed.
The right side of the car seems worse than the left hand side but that is due to it being more exposed to the elements in the shed the car was found in.
Been meaning to ask a paint question on here for a while.
We got some spray outs from the paint supplier, trying to get L21 Pearl Grey.
Top colour is an 1989 Vw colour not what I want.
Middle is apparently the correct one
Bottom is a custom based on Samba forum info looks to dark.
So based on the middle colour being close to the custom mix I think the middle one should be pretty close to the 50's L21 Perlgrau.
Anyone have a split window beetle this colour or seen one to comment?
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69 RHD Type 3 Notch Build Thread :http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=525890&highlight=
57 RHD Type 21 |
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