Buying a syncro - what should I know?

[eknomf]

I'm going to go look at an 86 syncro GL this weekend. This will be my first vanagon... I've wanted one ever since driving my friend's. It has 165k miles and appears to be very well maintained. What mechanical/other issues should I be looking for? How long do the engines and the 4spds typically last in these when well maintained?

[kevinbassplayer]

I'm not a syncro guy but I do know you are opening a can of worms here.....

[fatboypaul]

Be very aware of the transmission, they cost aound $1800 for a good rebuild, if it pops out of any gear be weary. Does it have a diff lock and does it work?? Check to see if the driveshaft has been removed, if it has, then something is probably wrong with the 4wd components.
You should probably read Syncro.org's website, all the Syncro advice you could ever need is to be found there.

Goodluck, Paul.

[r39o]

165K is right in the danger zone for low oil pressure based engine death. Read the stickies about oil pressure.

The VERY best thing you can do is to spend $100 and go to a good VW place and let them check it out. Oil pressure test and leak down are the most important engine checks. They will make sure you know if the heads are leaking too.

The trans is a biggie for the syncro. Like, all but the last, Vanagon transmissions have a failure mode that can shread the insides if you don't fix it soon enough. The dreaded 3/4 slider.

Then there are the syncro specifid things revolving around the 4wd parts.

Then there are the normal Vanagon issues.

Basically, decide if you like it and then have it inspected.

Don't guess!
_________________
"Use the SEARCH, Luke" But first visit the Vanagon FAQ!

1990 Multivan EJ 22, Rancho trans 0.82 4th, Small Car front AC, CLKs w/ 215/65-16, homemade big brakes 303mm, Konis, Recaros, etc....

Click to see my ads for Cup holders, Subaru clutch fix and CLK wheels (no wheels currently)

[86syncro]

All VERY good pieces of advise. If your paying top dollar, definately get it inspected. But, if its in running condition and they only want a couple of thousand, buy it with the assumption that it will need repairs.

I have a 86' syncro that is a basket case. However, I only paid $850 for it and I rebuild things myself. If the price is right and you are confident of your mechanical abilities, then buy it.

Spendy items: New head=~$400 each
Viscous coupling=~$1000
3/4 gear slider=~$250
Piston kit=~$450

[cloudbaseracer]

[cloudbaseracer]

Anyone have any help for me here on the 3/4 slider thing? I have the van apart now and so I want to get this taken care of now.

James

[gears]

Any VW dealer sells the upgraded operating sleeve/hub as a kit. The old style was phased out 15 years ago.

[seans67]

Not sure what you are paying or what you will be doing with the van but make sure that you really need/want a Syncro. I bought one about a year ago and love it but I live where it snows a lot. But I have to say that I am always doing something to it, not that I wouldn't on a regular van but when things like the VC come up and you have to drop a grand and then crawl around in the snow at 5 deg to put it in you start to wonder.

Like 86syncro said if it is a good buy go for it, but if they want top dollar make sure it is worth it.

Good luck!
_________________
Sean

'71 Squareback '71 Porsche 914 ‘80 Camper '87 Syncro Weekender 1.8T '87 Wolfsburg Weekender '97 Toyota Land Cruiser ‘03 Audi A6 Quattro 3.0 ‘04 Audi A4 Avant Quattro 1.8T ‘05 Audi A4 Quattro 3.0
‘06 Porsche Cayenne Turbo S

[Dogpilot]

There is only so much checking you can do. The Syncro has all the Vanagons engine quirks and a few of its own. Go downhill in it, go slow put it in first, let it idle down the hill, check to see if it pops out of first, do this in every gear, including granny, on a steep hill. actuate the rear diff lock several times, check for disengagement.

Do doughnuts in it and check for tire chirping, indicates an agressive VC. Do them after running around 30 minutes. Jack it up and check the shocks, springs and ball joints.

Check the boots on the front wheel CV's. All the other CV joints are common to the Vanagon, the ones to the front wheels themselves are unique. Look for torn or leaking Boots (new ones are white polyurethene).

After you shut down the engine, actuate the diff lock switch. It should engage with the engine off (maybe a bit of rocking required). This checks the vacuum accumulator and check valve.

When you have it jacked up, rotate a front wheel, a rear wheel should also rotate.

Sit in the drivers seat, if you feel a bulge on the right side of your butt, it is your wallet. Remove it and all your money to help 'restore' the Syncro. If there is no bulge, then you don't have enough money.
_________________
Geology with a Syncro rocks!
86 Syncro Westy AKA "The Bughunter"
98 Disco I
08 Range Rover SC
08 VW Rabbit S
1951 O-1G

[devesvws]

i just sold my 87 syncro 7 pas for $800 it had a good motor and trans it needed a few things to get back on the road it was not a pice of junk i shure hope the guy gets it going it had some rust but no rust holes the paint was faded most of all it needed a little tlc

[seans67]

[r39o]

Another thing to check is your need for a syncro. We all agree the syncro has a very high degree of coolness. Real high for me. But, I do not NEED a syncro. My point is to be sure you really NEED a syncro. Most of do not.

My $0.02,
Walt...
_________________
"Use the SEARCH, Luke" But first visit the Vanagon FAQ!

1990 Multivan EJ 22, Rancho trans 0.82 4th, Small Car front AC, CLKs w/ 215/65-16, homemade big brakes 303mm, Konis, Recaros, etc....

Click to see my ads for Cup holders, Subaru clutch fix and CLK wheels (no wheels currently)

[Cecil M]

I purchased a 86 syncro in September. I love it. I am the second owner and have only had one problem with it. A coolant leak. Turns out a flange cracked. The mechanic said "suncro means more labor" So if you are taking it to a shop be prepared for more labor charges.

[Chris_L]

Hello,
New guy here. GREAT SITE! Very happy to see this resource. I am looking at a 86 Syncro. It will be my first vanagon. I currently own a 1946 cessna 140 and a 1970 bug, and in the past I have owned a triumph tr250 and a 1967 Landrover 109 nada six cylinder. While I am being careful to heed the good advice in this thread, I am still crazy enough to be thinking about buying into a complicated and expensive vehicle.
So, here is the deal. 3500 asking price. 150k-ish miles. Second owner since 1989. Seems like a decent guy. It has been sitting around some lately. All work done by the same good vw shop. Engine rebuilt (or just replaced?) by this shop 25k ago, same with the transmission. The ecu (brain) was replaced with new about a year ago.
Some minor rust, just surface and not bubbling or blistering, but the paint is crap. Straight, no dents, and same underneath.
The exhaust pipe right off of the right hand front cylinder is broken.
The shift linkage is very loose and sloppy. I almost backed up into someone at a stop sign trying to find first!
The airconditioning doesn't work (blows, but not cold).
Other electical seems good.
Interior OK original, kind of worn but not bad.
Otherwise it drives nice. I am guessing that the cat is screwed after running with a broken pipe (too much oxygen). Can the exhaust valve get screwed too driving with a broken pipe?
I did donuts as dogpilot suggested, and after two revolutions the tires started to chirp, but it unwound after straightening out just fine. All the cv boots are intact.
I ran it down steep hills in all gears, powering up and down, and the trans seems tight.
Engine makes good power, and is smooth.
What else am I missing? any more suggestions? It is going into a good vw shop for a prebuy on tuesday.
Thanks!
Chris

[Dogpilot]

Did the Cessna 140 have the cloth or metalized wings? Just trying to find out which kind of masochist you are, with British motorcycles, cars and all. If you can handle that sort of punishment due to weird engineering, then the Syncro is perfect for you.

I dont think your broken pipe will cause a valve to fry, its not that high strung. A good compression check should sort that out. The entire shift system can be tightened up with a coupe of rebuild kits:
http://www.van-cafe.com/vanagonparts.jsp?pa=ip&ip=957368499

Paint and rust depends on where it originated. New paint on a 20 year old car is a good thing and when you do it you can deal with the rust. The interior can either be re-done or you can source individual seats complete that are in better shape.

I went for the S&S headers on mine, lots of opinion out there about ehausts. If you do go for it, get the ceramic coated one. You may have to bend the skid plate down about 1/2" to get proper clearance on the driver's side.

You should budget to go after most of the major suspension items, like shocks and upper ball joints. I would put a new O2, Temp II, plugs rotor, and dizzy cap & wires along with new plugs. Look around on eBay for the Vanagon Syndrone harness repair. Then inspect the coolant lines, replace any ones that are swelled or even look suspect.

Finally, a kick ass stereo that puts out high watts, cause if you fly a 140, your deaf.

You will love the Syncro, as you obviously love to tinker, you will have your dream fulfilled. They are cool, just need a bit of tweaking. Feel free to ask questions someone will pipe up.
_________________
Geology with a Syncro rocks!
86 Syncro Westy AKA "The Bughunter"
98 Disco I
08 Range Rover SC
08 VW Rabbit S
1951 O-1G

[Chris_L]

metal wings on the 140, for better or worse.

So, the exhaust system is not a syncro specific item? I was looking at the skid plates thinking they must have required a special exhaust system. Ceramic does seem like a good idea seeing how close it all is to whatever gets sprayed off the rear wheels. Seems like a perfect recipe for corrosion, hot metal meets road spray.

Thanks for the tips and keep them coming.

One other thing, no diff lock, and no little panel where the buttons/switches would go. Should it have one? Should be next to the cigarette lighter right?

[Dogpilot]

The non-diff lock Synco does not have the panel. So what you see is normal. The S&S system I got was supposed to be for a Syncro. Since I had it in the Hanger, my mechs didn't like the clearence, so they heated up one of the skidplate arms, put the powerpak in and dropped it about 1/2".
_________________
Geology with a Syncro rocks!
86 Syncro Westy AKA "The Bughunter"
98 Disco I
08 Range Rover SC
08 VW Rabbit S
1951 O-1G

[hawthorne]

So i found a 86 syncro locally, it has 260,000 odd thousand km. head were done almost 100,000 k ago(so porbbaly need done again soon, or motor swap), new balljoints, cv's, exhaust, no rust, nice looking van, but my only questions is when u engage the rear locker, the light doesnt come on, but aprently it does engage,( wasnt going to spin donuts with the guy with me, but before I'd buy it i guess I'd have to. do the diff lockers cause problems?
_________________
Andrew Hawthorne

[Dogpilot]

The difflock can fail to engage for a variety of reasons. Vacuum leaks in the actuating system. The actual vacuum actuator itself can be shot, about $45. THe shaft of the difflock actuator, where it goes int the tranny, can gum up. Removing the switch on top and spraying WD40 or the like in the switch hole will let some light lube flow around the shaft and loosen it up. They need to be actuated about once a month to keep everything moving smoothly.

_________________
Geology with a Syncro rocks!
86 Syncro Westy AKA "The Bughunter"
98 Disco I
08 Range Rover SC
08 VW Rabbit S
1951 O-1G