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Jetting for 36mm dellorto DRLAs
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manydubs
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 6:05 am    Post subject: Jetting for 36mm dellorto DRLAs Reply with quote

1600cc-1835cc engine, not 100%, previous owner was not sure

stock valves/ports - dual port obviously

Not sure the cam, most likely lets assume stock-engle 100

heater boxes, header to phat boy muffler.

What size jets should I run: 36mm dellorto DRLA carbs.

Removed them from the engine, blew out jets, installed with new gaskets to heads and manifolds. Everything tightened down.

009 distributor set to 30 degrees advanced timing.

30mm vents

currently has
120 mains
180 air corrections
60 idle jets

Changed to 120 mains from 130 because they seemed to rich, bucking and surging when going WOT

Currently bucks a lot when going from idle to mid throttle

Was thinking of trying 55 idle jets

Would love to talk or hear from John at aircooled.net

Thanks
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miketheblur
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 8:07 am    Post subject: carbs Reply with quote

I would open the carbs ,clean them and set the floats before trying to work out the jetting.
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nextgen
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

120 sounds about right but maybe 125 would be more like it.

A big issue is dirty jets and maybe the pump jet is dirty. Blow the jets. If you are too lean , when you have a nice place to start from zero and to to 65, like at toll booth, floor it. If the engine dies you are too lean. I had 135 mains on my 2.0 dropped to 130 no problem then dropped to 128 and it did at top RPM's, went back to 130 and knew I could not be better.
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manydubs
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nextgen wrote:
120 sounds about right but maybe 125 would be more like it.

A big issue is dirty jets and maybe the pump jet is dirty. Blow the jets. If you are too lean , when you have a nice place to start from zero and to to 65, like at toll booth, floor it. If the engine dies you are too lean. I had 135 mains on my 2.0 dropped to 130 no problem then dropped to 128 and it did at top RPM's, went back to 130 and knew I could not be better.


Thanks for the response. My concern right now is more related to the idle jets, the ones that are in operation is low to mid-range.

It seems to bog and buck in the mid-range. WOT (top RPM) seems fine but does drop off a bit, so I may go to 122 mains.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your going to need to start with a 52 and be between that and a 55. 60 is fat. 120 comes out about right for 30 vents but I agree with Nextgen that you may need a 125 once you dial in your idles. Only one way to find out.
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manydubs
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jfats808 wrote:
Your going to need to start with a 52 and be between that and a 55. 60 is fat. 120 comes out about right for 30 vents but I agree with Nextgen that you may need a 125 once you dial in your idles. Only one way to find out.


Great, thanks for the response. Smile
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manydubs
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 5:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally got the correct Idle jets from vendor. (purchased 52 & 55mm)

Installed the 52mm idles and of course it was coughing and spitting during warm up since idle mixture was for 60mm.

double checked each barrel with snail gauge and all of them are pulling a (5).

Adjusted the idle mixture to richen so that the coughing stopped and it idles much smoother and around 950rpm.

Took her for a drive and it still stumbles and bucks, even with the smaller idle jets. However Full throttle and when the mains kick in is very nice and smooth, making power throughout the RPM range up to 5K since not sure about crank counter weighting and valve springs.

I had previously purchased new linkage arms and had adjusted both sides to open at the same time.

Everything seems synched up.

Could this mean that it is still too lean actually and that is why a fat 60mm and a leaner 52mm idle jet works the same?

It seems like the transition from idles to main it where it is the worst. The engine idles just fine.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get this ASAP.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideband-o2-air-fuel-uego-gauge-kit-745


AEM 30-4100 is the part num. use google shopping and you can get it for under 200 all day long.

THEN work on your jetting. Cause theres no way to know what you may need since you dont know what engine it is.
Literally... 60 idle may be spot on. I havent been able to get a 55 idle to work yet on dells of any size even with SVDA.
I have 55s in my 1679 on dell 36s and its WAY too lean at cruise with an 009.

It would work with SVDA.
So i need to go back to 58s.

big 2085 i did in an SA bus, uses 58 idles in dell 40s with SVDA. gets 25 mpg fully loaded haulin ass on road trip.

So you never know what your gonna need but for sure, the 180 air is great and 125 main is prob real close. What tubes do you have? 9164.2 hopefully?
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jfats808
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
It seems like the transition from idles to main it where it is the worst. The engine idles just fine.


Could try a 200 air to bring it in earlier. After you switch to a bigger air i suspect the 55s might be much better. How does it run if you put the 55s in?
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manydubs
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Going to remove the carbs and blow out the orifices of the jets, not just the jets themselves and then try the 55 idles jets.
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried driving it just on the idles? Pull the main stack after it warms up and drive it around, see where it falls on it's face on the RPM.

I can run my 1904cc on 52 idles in my 36's with a 16.5 AFR but with my short hops around town it never gets warmed up to run decent in many of my trips, so I went to the other side and run 57's for 12.75- 13 AFR on the idles when warm.
The 55's ran right at 14.5 when warm so we went to the 57's
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manydubs
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the process of assembling carbs after complete tear down and cleaning. There was lots of grit and junk in them, especially the accelerator pump-related passageways.

Just need order from CB to arrive for A/P diaphragms and springs.

had two different stiffness Accelerator Pump spings.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a perfect example of someone that really understands what is going on, and adjusted for his driving situation.

W1K1 wrote:
I can run my 1904cc on 52 idles in my 36's with a 16.5 AFR but with my short hops around town it never gets warmed up to run decent in many of my trips, so I went to the other side and run 57's for 12.75- 13 AFR on the idles when warm.
The 55's ran right at 14.5 when warm so we went to the 57's

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modok
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 12:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if the supplied jetting is not correct that tends to indicate there is something wrong with the carbs or engine.
check the size of the jets rather than the #s stamped on them. idles should be .57, mains 1.22, airs 1.8mm, float level usually 5-7mm, (opinions vary slightly)

If the carbs are good but the engine is weak sauce then the first thing to try is 28mm vents and 115 main, all else the same. Hole will be gone. If it's low compression it may need more advance.
I never run unknown carbs on an unknown engine TOO MANY VARIBLES Shocked
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manydubs
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 6:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A thorough cleaning of the idle circuits, passageways and every nook and cranny did the trick.

She is running great all rebuilt and clean.

55 idle jets
120 main jets
180 air correction jets
50 accelerator pump jets

synched up both side for airflow and linkages

Took her for a spin and it is really nice! Feels like there is not enough gearing and it is very easy to drive too fast. Smile
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