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1970VWGUY Samba Member
Joined: September 15, 2013 Posts: 864 Location: Natrona Heights, PA
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Posted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 4:12 pm Post subject: Inside Door Treatment |
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I have a 1970 beetle. I ordered all the stuff to fix the window scrapers
When I get the door panels off for inspection and I happen to see rust.....What should be done at that point....can I coat them with something?
Any good suggestions to do this with the doors on and without a sandblaster? |
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wayne1230cars Samba Member

Joined: April 05, 2010 Posts: 2691 Location: Canada
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Posted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 5:58 pm Post subject: |
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First of all , a good idea to replace those scrapers. They are important.
Hopefully you will not find a major rust problem like rust through at the bottom of the doors. This of course would need repair. A little surface rust is not necessarily uncommon. You could use some rust converter and then some rust paint.
Some owners like to use some sound proofing. Use the opportunity to lubricate the various door and window mechanisms. Remember the plastic sheet. It will help to prolong the life of the door panels. _________________ 1960 beetle
1970 beetle convertible |
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'69Custom Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2008 Posts: 2497 Location: Ventura, California
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Posted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 6:30 pm Post subject: Re: Inside Door Treatment |
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1970VWGUY wrote: |
I have a 1970 beetle. I ordered all the stuff to fix the window scrapers
When I get the door panels off for inspection and I happen to see rust.....What should be done at that point....can I coat them with something?
Any good suggestions to do this with the doors on and without a sandblaster? |
Neutralize any rust with maybe some navel jelly, then prepare the surface with some future protection. Some people use cavity wax, others a paint like POR-15. _________________ -Tim
1969 Frankenbug
1965 Ford Mustang
:2gunfire: F-U-M-P!
~"I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken." ~The Boss
Please excuse any typos as my iPhone doesn't speak English very well.
tham64 wrote: |
Why tune a big round again and again????? For me.... 1 hour will solve the case |
www.endlesscustomz.com |
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Tim Donahoe Samba Member

Joined: December 08, 2012 Posts: 11787 Location: Redding, CA
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Posted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 7:52 pm Post subject: |
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Be sure to unplug the drain holes in the bottom of the door. Clean out the interior/bottom, and vacuum out debris. Clear the hole so water can drain out.
Tim |
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1970VWGUY Samba Member
Joined: September 15, 2013 Posts: 864 Location: Natrona Heights, PA
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Posted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 8:21 pm Post subject: |
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wayne1230cars wrote: |
First of all , a good idea to replace those scrapers. They are important.
Hopefully you will not find a major rust problem like rust through at the bottom of the doors. This of course would need repair. A little surface rust is not necessarily uncommon. You could use some rust converter and then some rust paint.
Some owners like to use some sound proofing. Use the opportunity to lubricate the various door and window mechanisms. Remember the plastic sheet. It will help to prolong the life of the door panels. |
I assume you mean to put some plastic on the back of the door panels?
After looking at some cheap small sandblasters I might do it and then use some epoxy paint inside the door making sure to keep the drain holes open.... |
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69vduber Samba Member

Joined: April 23, 2008 Posts: 442 Location: Spring Texas
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Posted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 8:35 pm Post subject: |
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Plastic goes on the door. use adhesive around the inside edge of the door panel indention. |
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alex857 Samba Member

Joined: December 26, 2010 Posts: 767 Location: Stuttgart/Germany
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Posted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 4:57 am Post subject: |
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Here a photo how to use double side adhesive for the plastic. With the plastic, I made a double layer at the bottom to guide wter away to thwe inside of the door rather than trapping it between the foil and the metal (like in earlier bugs).
Furthermore I strongly recommend cavity wax after the removal of any rust and repaint and good sound proofing - with an adhesive tar mat applied, your Bug will sound rock solid again when you slam the door.
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goober Samba Member
Joined: May 03, 2003 Posts: 1234
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Posted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 6:09 am Post subject: |
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"...can I coat them with something?"
Like Tim stated above, makes sure all drain holes are clear. I've added extra 1/8" drain holes on the bottom edge of my doors to be sure there can be no standing water in the doors. If you can't keep water entirely out of an area, at least make sure it can't collect. I don't use running boards, so door/water exposure inside and out is a concern of mine.
It's hard to break me of my old school ways, but nothing stops rust like inexpensive grease and oil. I take chassis grease, mix in some 30w motor oil until I have a thick pasty liquid. I then 'paint' the inside of the door with this concoction keeping the drain holes free. I do this every 3-4 years or whenever I have a reason to remove a door panel.
I don't notice any greasy/oily smells emanating from the doors. I have on lazy occasions drilled a couple of small holes in the door panel and squirted WD40 in the doors. Any rust prevention is better than no rust prevention. |
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Mr.Duncan Samba Member

Joined: May 12, 2012 Posts: 3543 Location: Houston, TX
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Posted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 7:33 am Post subject: |
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Plastic sheet is a must.
Here is mine that I installed.
_________________ (Owner) www.vintagecarleds.com
Red 1971 Squareback Thread
Red 1966 Beetle Thread
---------------------------------------------------
1971 Green Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Ghia (sold)
1971 Blue Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
1966 Red Beetle |
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1970VWGUY Samba Member
Joined: September 15, 2013 Posts: 864 Location: Natrona Heights, PA
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Posted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 3:28 pm Post subject: |
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Nice job on the plastic care to share you technique and tips....
WOW ...I HAD A MAJOR SURPRISE TODAY...
Took the door panels off and what did I see....???
NOTHING...not one speck of rust on either door...One door is original to the car the other has been replaced....both had the plastic on them....
Now for some slightly bad news...I broke off a corner of one of the panels......and some of the clips are broken and missing....good news I ordered new clips and plastic clip holders....
One of the plastic sheets was toasted....so I have to make new sheets..
Now something I discovered....The black plastic clip holders that mount in the door...were put in after the plastic was installed...so the plastic completely seals the door opening and the clip holes were made after to minumize the leakage..
I also installed some sound deadener material....The new door gaskets were a ball to remove and replace...NOT.....took 6 hours to do everything I just told you about....much more work to do when the parts arrive.. |
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1970VWGUY Samba Member
Joined: September 15, 2013 Posts: 864 Location: Natrona Heights, PA
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Posted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 6:55 pm Post subject: |
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My next big question....Since there in no rust at the bottom of the doors....should I do anything to the insides or not? |
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Hyperspace Samba Member

Joined: January 03, 2013 Posts: 1166 Location: South Africa
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volksworld Samba Member
Joined: November 26, 2011 Posts: 2580 Location: formerly NY currently NC
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Posted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 4:23 am Post subject: |
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just don't do goobers oil and grease idea if you ever plan on painting it.... |
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1970VWGUY Samba Member
Joined: September 15, 2013 Posts: 864 Location: Natrona Heights, PA
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Posted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 12:08 pm Post subject: |
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I had to do some repair work on my door panel. Glue and reinforcment...I broke the corner off... : (
Here's a tip when you remove them.
Don't start at the most vulnerable spot...the area near the crank and handle...start far away and work yourself to that point...
The panels do have water marks on them and some warpage. I think when I put atll the clips back in the panel should look pretty straight.... |
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