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cambarner
Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2010
Posts: 101
Location: Southern Maine
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 Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 7:20 pm Post subject: Front Door seals/gaskets |
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This may belong in the stupid questions thread, but...
While I have searched on this topic, I have not found an answer to my specific question.
First, when installing the front door seals do the doors need to come off? I would think you could replace it with out removing the door...
And Second, should I use any glue in attaching the seal to the door?
Thanks in advance,
Cam
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VDubTech
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Joined: December 29, 2002
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Location: Syracuse, NY
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| Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 7:44 pm Post subject: |
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No, and no.
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curtis4085
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Joined: July 22, 2011
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Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 7:47 pm Post subject: |
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No and maybe. my OG seals i pulled off had a bit of it in places.. and no it did not apear to be from PO. I pulled all the seals off my bus and some had and some didnt. So Im up in the air.
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kreemoweet
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Joined: March 13, 2008
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Location: Seattle, WA
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| Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 12:16 am Post subject: |
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The checkstraps will need to be disconnected. The front of the door does
not have a channel to retain the seal, and will certainly require glue. As I
recall, the top corners will also flop around if not glued.
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cambarner
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Joined: October 27, 2010
Posts: 101
Location: Southern Maine
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| Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 4:15 am Post subject: |
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Then how come everyone else said I didn't need it? haha. What type of glue would you recommend?
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poptop tom
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Joined: July 27, 2004
Posts: 1607
Location: The Hoosier State
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| Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 5:48 am Post subject: |
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| cambarner wrote: |
| Then how come everyone else said I didn't need it? haha. What type of glue would you recommend? |
First of all, make sure the channel is good and clean where the seal sits. Then do a dry run. Set the seal in place, make its correctly installed, and see how the doors close.
At this point, if you feel comfortable with the fit, you can use a bit of adhesive where necessary. You may get away without using adhesive at all. The quality of seal you are using will probably have an impact on whether you need adhesive, or not.
I used quality door seals when I did mine, but still decided to use adhesive in a few areas - corners, at the top, etc.
This is what I used:
http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/adhesi...ealant.htm
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SGKent 
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Joined: October 30, 2007
Posts: 42731
Location: at the beach
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| Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 5:55 am Post subject: |
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3-m yellow weatherstrip glue. VW used glue.
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Desertbusman
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Joined: June 03, 2005
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Location: Arizona
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| Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 6:10 am Post subject: |
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Weatherstrip glue or contact cement. There will be places that do need an adhesive.
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poptop tom
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Joined: July 27, 2004
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Location: The Hoosier State
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| Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 6:38 am Post subject: |
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| SGKent wrote: |
| 3-m yellow weatherstrip glue. VW used glue. |
You are correct. Indeed that is what I used. It's been a few years, and I was almost certain it was a Permatex product. 
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Tuna Tim
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| Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 7:22 am Post subject: |
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I just did my driver's door seal last week. It was eezy-shmeezy.
- Remove the old seal.
- Clean the contact area well.
- Pop the pin out of the check-strap to allow the front portion of the seal to be positioned.
- Install the seal without adhesive, but using blue painters' tape to hold it in place. Taping the seal in place will allow you to identify those areas of the seal that require some adhesive, without it flopping all over the place. (It's the next best thing to having a third arm)
- Lift the section of seal that requires adhesive, apply glue, tape back down. If the adhesive is a quick set you can skip the tape.
- Move on to next section that requires adhesive.
- Follow manufacturer's recommendation for time to allow adhesive to cure.
- Remove tape
- Reinstall check-strap.
- Admire your handy work.
Words of wisdom:
- Not all seals are created equal.
- The door may be difficult to close for awhile, until the seal compresses.
- The latch may require adjusting.
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cambarner
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Joined: October 27, 2010
Posts: 101
Location: Southern Maine
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| Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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Quality info. Thank you very much!
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stevo
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Joined: January 22, 2004
Posts: 980
Location: the eugeniverse
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| Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 9:31 pm Post subject: |
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| Tuna Tim wrote: |
- Pop the pin out of the check-strap to allow the front portion of the seal to be positioned. |
does the check strap pin pop out? appears that it should. i removed the circlip, tapped it hard with a hammer and it hasn't budged. should i hit from below full force? |
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Tuna Tim
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Joined: November 24, 2005
Posts: 181
Location: Saddlerock, Aurora, Colorado
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| Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 6:13 am Post subject: |
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| stevo wrote: |
| Tuna Tim wrote: |
- Pop the pin out of the check-strap to allow the front portion of the seal to be positioned. |
does the check strap pin pop out? appears that it should. i removed the circlip, tapped it hard with a hammer and it hasn't budged. should i hit from below full force? |
It does lift out once the clip has been removed. Mine lifts out using my index finger. Hitting it "full force" risks mushrooming the pin. You don't want to do that. Try wiggling the door back-n-forth as you tap it lightly from the bottom. If the pin is still reluctant to move, try some PB Blaster or similar concoction. A few light taps on the strap and side of the pin might also help to free it.
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Poptopcamper
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Joined: June 23, 2012
Posts: 493
Location: Sheridan, Wyoming
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| Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 6:35 am Post subject: |
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In the early 60's vws were known to be so well sealed that they would float. I remember seeing a YouTube of a bug floating in a lake or some body of water. I don't know about busses. I do remember that a friend got a new bug in the 60's and it was easier on the ears to crack the window before shutting the doors. Do your ears pop when you shut your doors? Do busses really float? I need to replace my door seals too. I'll keep you posted.
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Busdriver79
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Joined: July 22, 2011
Posts: 1655
Location: The Peoples' Republic of "No" Jersey
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| Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 6:38 am Post subject: door seals |
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| Thanks for reminding me to replace my front door seals....I just ordered a pair online a few minutes ago....They will be here within a week. |
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stevo
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Joined: January 22, 2004
Posts: 980
Location: the eugeniverse
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| Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 2:23 pm Post subject: |
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| Tuna Tim wrote: |
| stevo wrote: |
| Tuna Tim wrote: |
- Pop the pin out of the check-strap to allow the front portion of the seal to be positioned. |
does the check strap pin pop out? appears that it should. i removed the circlip, tapped it hard with a hammer and it hasn't budged. should i hit from below full force? |
It does lift out once the clip has been removed. Mine lifts out using my index finger. Hitting it "full force" risks mushrooming the pin. You don't want to do that. Try wiggling the door back-n-forth as you tap it lightly from the bottom. If the pin is still reluctant to move, try some PB Blaster or similar concoction. A few light taps on the strap and side of the pin might also help to free it. |
thanks tim. that's the way it looks in bentley, but i'm glad to double check before reefing on it. will blaster it. |
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HarryFD
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Joined: February 24, 2012
Posts: 833
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 8:32 pm Post subject: |
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| Tuna Tim wrote: |
| stevo wrote: |
| Tuna Tim wrote: |
- Pop the pin out of the check-strap to allow the front portion of the seal to be positioned. |
does the check strap pin pop out? appears that it should. i removed the circlip, tapped it hard with a hammer and it hasn't budged. should i hit from below full force? |
It does lift out once the clip has been removed. Mine lifts out using my index finger. Hitting it "full force" risks mushrooming the pin. You don't want to do that. Try wiggling the door back-n-forth as you tap it lightly from the bottom. If the pin is still reluctant to move, try some PB Blaster or similar concoction. A few light taps on the strap and side of the pin might also help to free it. |
Just did my doors. One of the pins was rusted into place. After trying to drift it out, I gave up and dremeled the head off. It was replaced with a Stainless steel 30 mm M6 buttonhead bolt and nylock nut.
The rubber is thicker than my old rubber and the doors are hard to close but with a bit of energy, close and latch. I will wait a few months before I take more drastic measures.
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