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Door Adjustment Help
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Bill W
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Joined: October 07, 2013
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 4:23 pm    Post subject: Door Adjustment Help Reply with quote

Hey All, the doors on my girls 65 beetle will not close all the way, they latch but rattle like crazy, both doors have rubber weatherstripping intact all the way around the door edge (original i would guess). if you slam the passenger side door real hard it will close tight, i did a search, read a half a dozen threads, but did not find much of a good how to thread. Can anyone help?

Thanks in Advance.
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YouBugMe58
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Give us some pictures of the latch on both the door and post.
Check the receiver on the post. It should have a spring loaded striker. If the spring is broken it will rattle. If the striker is not adjusted correctly it will not fully latch and rattle. This spring also pops the door open when you pull on the handle. It took me almost 2 days of adjusting to get both my doors to close correctly. What a Pain it was.
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thomas.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have this photo in my gallery and used it a few years ago with someone with the same problem.It should help.

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Pennywise
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

beryl green'62bug wrote:
I have this photo in my gallery and used it a few years ago with someone with the same problem.It should help.

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Good reference. It might help more if the numbers were being shown though.
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here you go:

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Bill W
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy Thank you very much! that will help quite a bit,

and on a side note, we got the title issue taken care of and last night we were able to take it to our local Cruise in. Met a guy named Woody with a awesome yellow VW truck. as i have found with my old Ford trucks, the more people you meet the more you can learn about them. we are having a great time. Oh, one more thing... 6 volt lights are not gonna cut it. not sure if i want to jump to 8 volt or 12 volt.
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wayne1230cars
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bill W wrote:
Very Happy Thank you very much! that will help quite a bit,

and on a side note, we got the title issue taken care of and last night we were able to take it to our local Cruise in. Met a guy named Woody with a awesome yellow VW truck. as i have found with my old Ford trucks, the more people you meet the more you can learn about them. we are having a great time. Oh, one more thing... 6 volt lights are not gonna cut it. not sure if i want to jump to 8 volt or 12 volt.


I had the same dilemma with my 1960 bug. I ended up keeping it at 6 volts and doing the following.
1). I purchased the led taillight kit(snowflakes) from Chip who advertises on Samba. The difference is incredible. Brake, signal and taillights are bright in both day and night time conditions. You will need a new led compatible flasher. These are also available for the 62 - 67 style. However I just noticed that the 62 - 67 led taillights are only available in 12 volt so far. Too bad.

2). I spent several hours going through every wiring connection and grounds. I removed the headlight switch and worked on that. The end result was better
headlights and front signals.

When I compare the headlights on my 12 volt 1970 bug to my 6 volt 1960 bug, the 12 volt lights are better obviously but 6 volts are adequate. The 6 volt led taillights are as visible if not better than the 12 volt non led taillights.

If you do a lot of night time driving maybe the 12 volt is something to consider. But you might be surprised at the 6 volt system when operating at optimal efficiency. Unfortunate that you cannot get the taillights in 6 volt led.
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Bill W
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info Wayne!
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dakdak
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the door, check the latch (the triangular piece under the assembly) that goes into the striker plate. With the door open, there is a rectangular pin sticking out on the inner part of the latch that is pushed in with the door closed. This will keep the door locked.

With the door open and unlocked, push in the rectangular pin and try to push the triangular latch up. If you are getting more than a few thousandths of an inch upward movement on the triangular latch, it is worn and will need to be replaced. I changed my driver's side door latch about a month ago, because the door would pop ajar while driving, regardless of how much I adjusted the striker plate.

Just a thought and hope it helps.
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Last edited by dakdak on Sat Oct 19, 2013 4:01 pm; edited 1 time in total
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And I changed the one out in my Baja earlier this year after it popped open on me when I did a spin-out on a back road... Mine was just plain worn out!

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