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Digijet wiring harness rebuild
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t3 kopf
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 1:11 am    Post subject: Digijet wiring harness rebuild Reply with quote

Well, after I bought a spare harness 2 years ago, I finally got the time and space to start rebuilding it for my van. I understand why they are so damned expensive now. This work is tedious and time consuming. I got most of the part numbers and a basic idea from an l-jet rebuild thread

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570114

I learned a lot during the process about how the system works just from the crazy routing of the wires. They take some pretty zany loops and u turns in the loom and I tried to eliminate some of those and make a few direct routes while still holding true to the Bentley diagram for early 84 digijet as far as what goes where. I incorporated the ignition hall sender and generator system into it but had to reuse the idle stabilizer wires and connector because the connectors are NLA. I did source a new version of the connectors from the UK but I am still pending a deal for them to ship me some. It turns out ford has them for use over there in what I believe is the transit model but they may be restricted. we shall see!

Anyway, repining the ECU was tricky at first. The removal of the old pins was anyway. This is the most dangerous part because one could easily damage the 30 year old plastic. i did a little before i got the hang of it but the pins are still tight in their holes. The face is just a little ugly.


Heres the wires heading off in their respective directions with a bit of heat shrink and electrical tape to keep them honest until time to put on the split loom..

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The first part that had me scratching my head is where, in the wiring diagram, you can see that all 4 injectors have a wire each besides the ones from the ecu that come together in a splice with one wire from the aux air regulator and one that heads over to the double relay box. I would have thought these would go to a ground, but I guess that's where pins 7 or 25 come in. VW originally had a bare butt splice holding these together and it didn't seem too sturdy, so I used a butt splice with shrink wrap and electrical tape to keep it together. Here it is before i taped over it tightly and I shrunk the heat shrink to it.

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Now on to an injector. one wire from the ecu and connectors respective pin and one from the splice. The new boot and tape/heatshrink, then new pins and finally the connector and the boot in place.


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Now the AFM connector. Theres another one that's hard to source. I know theres a place somewhere in that link above where someone found it, but mine was still in good shape so I reused it.

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Meanwhile, over at the double relay box, things can get a bit confusing. I had to check my own van, check the Bentley and check again. Im still waiting on a couple terminals to complete terminal 30, but heres a shot in progress

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Over at the left side, I had to repin what I could with the hall unit, generator and the idle stabilizer. I spliced new wires into the idle stabilizer to hall generator so that I could repin the connector where it goes on the dizzy. Also a vital connector worth saving if you have extras.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


On the right side, the AFM, #1 and #2 injectors, aux air regulator, idle switches (modified for a VSM) and fuel pump power wire are in place waiting for split loom covering.

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Heres where I am right now. I just have to get some split loom to cover the whole thing, and get a couple loose ends put together like the cylinder head ground terminals.

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It was at this point, going through the Bentley diagram, that I realized that on the number one injector to ecu, I used an 18 AWG wire where the book called for a 16 AWG in that place Mad . Im way too far in to break it back out and all the other injector wires including the splices are 18 AWG in the book. I think it is probably just because the #1 injector is the farthest away but it isn't quite as far with my new routing. I think ill be ok there. there isn't a huge difference and my 30 year old original harness is probably worse off even with a 16 gauge there.

More to come as it develops!
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t3 kopf
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All done! Finished it up today and checked continuity on all wire paths and pins in accordance with the Bentley. Everything is where it should be and is showing perfect continuity. Im ready to get it in the van and fire it up to see how she runs

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rubbachicken
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

very nicely done Cool

how many hours did it take you ?
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t3 kopf
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. It took a couple hours after work every day for a week. Give or take a day. It was my first time doing a harness so I think the next time will be faster now that I know what i'm getting into.
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t3 kopf
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 5:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heres a list of the connectors and such sourced from digikey, used for the digijet harness,.....

A106202-ND Fuel injector connector housings
A105234-ND Fuel injector connector boots
A107135CT-ND 15-20 AWG crimp terminals (for ecu connector, injectors, etc)
A27935CT-ND 14-18 AWG locking female terminals (female spades)
A100857CT-ND 10-12 AWG locking female terminals (larger gauge female spades for splicing in the relay box)
A27922CT-ND 14-18 AWG locking male terminals (male spades for the relay box)
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Last edited by t3 kopf on Tue Feb 24, 2015 12:26 pm; edited 1 time in total
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msinabottle
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 3:17 pm    Post subject: Thank you! Reply with quote

What a lot of work! And then you took MORE trouble to photograph and document it for us! Thank you! Thank you!

Best!
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

t3 kopf wrote:
Heres a list of the connectors and such sourced from digikey, used for the digijet harness,.....

A106202-ND Fuel injector connector housings
A105234-ND Fuel injector connector boots
A107135CT-ND 15-20 AWG crimp terminals (for ecu connector, injectors, etc)
A27935CT-ND 14-18 AWG locking female terminals (female spades)
A100857CT-ND 10-12 AWG locking female terminals (larger gauge female spades for splicing in the relay box)
A279922CT-ND 14-18 AWG locking male terminals (male spades for the relay box)


How did you determine what connectors from Digi-key matched what you needed? The last time in my engine bay I noticed some PO/boob had popped the wire retainer off the distributor connector so it is just pushed on there. I'd like to replace it...and at $4 CAD for the FI connectors you listed...it'd be nice to get it from Digi-Key, but I have no idea how to determine the correct one.
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t3 kopf
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

are you talking about the connector to the hall generator on the side of the distributor? digijet or digifant (although i think they're the same one) if so, thats a different connector from the injectors but van cafe sells a pigtail. otherwise, the pins are the same as what goes in the ecu connector, temp 2, aux air, etc
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t3 kopf
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 5:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Thank you! Reply with quote

msinabottle wrote:
What a lot of work! And then you took MORE trouble to photograph and document it for us! Thank you! Thank you!

Best!


No problem. Im just glad to be able to post something useful.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

t3 kopf wrote:
are you talking about the connector to the hall generator on the side of the distributor? digijet or digifant (although i think they're the same one) if so, thats a different connector from the injectors but van cafe sells a pigtail. otherwise, the pins are the same as what goes in the ecu connector, temp 2, aux air, etc


Yes 2.1 Digifant Hall Sender Plug. Van Cafe's is $75...An equivalent from Digi-Key (If it exists) would be significantly cheaper I imagine if I could figure out an equivalent connector. Thanks anyway.
Nice work!
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t3 kopf
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

do you have a picture of yours?
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking at van cafe's picture of the pigtail, that is definitely a different connector than what i have on a digijet. its just a pushon on the digijet. it appears to be the same wiring from what the bentley shows, but it comes from the ecu on digifant, as opposed to digijet where it comes from the idle stabilizer connector. thats better for you digifant guys, since the idle stabilizer connectors can only be sourced new out of the UK and may be restricted by contract to Ford.
I would have to physically look at a digifant connector to see what you need. Next time im over at the bug house in VA beach ill look at one of his parts vans and see what is on there and then see what i can find as far as new stuff.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That'd be great, thanks! I'll try and get a decent shot when I change out my Thermostat housing this weekend.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 5:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Digijet wiring harness rebuild Reply with quote

t3 kopf wrote:
I incorporated the ignition hall sender and generator system into it but had to reuse the idle stabilizer wires and connector because the connectors are NLA. I did source a new version of the connectors from the UK but I am still pending a deal for them to ship me some. It turns out ford has them for use over there in what I believe is the transit model but they may be restricted. we shall see!



More to come as it develops!


Let me know as much info as possible, year/model/part number/picture ANYTHING that could be of use and will be I front of local Ford Main Dealer parts man on Monday morning for you. Fingers crossed will get a Jiffy bag on an aeroplane asap Cool
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Send me a PM declaring your undieing love and include your address Wink
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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The same? Cool

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t3 kopf
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2015 5:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes, that appears to me to be quite similar to one of them. it has an oring in the picture which is different, but its probably one of the updated ones
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've installed the new harness on my van, which means it time to take apart the old one and start building a backup. perhaps this one will be even better!

I didnt get to take pictures of me taking apart the other harness so ill go through some of the steps.

Behold the crappy old corroded and patched up thing that was running my van (somehow)

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Before you get started, its a good idea to get a piece of plywood and tack down and mark the old harness. Its much faster this way because you already know where your wire is going. Look at these montrous looking grounds.


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And the corrosion on what is supposed to power the whole system.
The connectors on these relay terminals are easy to remove using a bent 1.4 mm flathead jewelers screwdriver to bend the tab and pull it out from the back.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is an example of what can be seen on bentley page 97.55 on track 13. It is the splice where one wire from each fuel injector and one wire from the aux air regulator recieve their power from terminal 87 of the fuel pump relay. The ecu itself then grounds the actuation signal for the injectors through the other 4 wires from the injectors to the 4 pins on the ecu. This is how the "batch fire" makes them all fire at once.

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How to depin the ecu connector: Remove all the old sheathing and the boot from the connector, then remove the small screw from the backshell..


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Use your flathead jewelers screwdriver to pry the gasket off the connector...

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Then use the same screwdriver to carefully pry the center free of the backshell, leaving you with this...

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Now using a 1 MM flathead jewelers screwdriver (this is a perfect size, or you can use the proper depinning tool which i dont have), put the end of the screwdriver into the slot above the face of the pin to bend the locking tab on the pin down and then insert it into the back of the connector slot and hold the pin up while pulling it out. DONT force it and dont get rough with the screwdriver. The plastic connector is very easy to damage. It may take a bit of trying to get used to it but the pin will pop out of the slot. Installing a pin is the reverse. The locking tab will snap the pin into place. This is the same for the injector, aux air regulator, temp2, AFM, ignition control unit, and most every other locking connector in the harness. Its best and quickest to remove and replace each wire one at a time. If you dont know how to properly crimp a connector, use the link in the first post in the thread and it shows the proper tool and method. Its easy once you get the hang of it.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


More to come as i continue tomorrow. It is taking me half the time to do this one as it did the last one.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

t3 kopf wrote:
I've installed the new harness on my van, which means it time to take apart the old one and start building a backup. perhaps this one will be even better!


how did it run with the new harness?

thanks for posting.
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t3 kopf
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have not ran it up yet. I still have a few things going on. I need to do a coolant fill/bleed, change oil, and its on jackstands in the garage waiting on new front brakes in the mail. I'll update when I run it though. Its too cold up here still!
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