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tysonhemelstrand
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Joined: August 10, 2013
Posts: 147
Location: Nebraska
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 Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 8:22 am Post subject: My 1969 Royal Red FI Squareback |
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I've been around here for a while, posting a question here and there, but I finally decided it was time to go ahead and make my car it's own post. I think this will make it easier for people to help answer my questions, and allow everyone to see my progress throughout my ownership of the car. I think it would be best to start with a quick introduction to the car.
Here's a picture to start. The Royal Red really is a stunning color, it's a bit deeper than the Ruby Red seen on earlier cars. The car was a Colorado car until I bought it, and surprisingly enough there's very little rust, but we'll get into that in a bit. The car came with a stack of documentation that gives me a pretty good idea of it's history, and I'll give a quick rundown here.
The car was purchased on November 25th, 1968 by Dr. Oliver Benson. I actually have the original receipt that shows the options he added to the car!
He paid a whopping 2,908 dollars and 95 cents for the car at Ed Carrol Volkswagen in Ft. Collins (It's still in business to this day!), with an added AM radio, roof rack, snow tires and chains, and chassis undercoating, which I think is why the floorpans on the car are so fresh. Here's the letter the dealership sent him after he bought the car!
He kept it serviced well, with routine service done at Ed Carrol during his ownership (there are stamps in the owner's manual). From what I gather, Dr. Benson drove the car until at least 1993, which is when the last emissions certification was done to the car as far as I can tell.
The car was purchased around 2001 by the second owner, whose name I will not mention here as a matter of privacy. He drove the car until at least 2011, and actually had it maintained by a shop instead of doing the work himself. I have a big stack of repair invoices from Autosport of Longmont to go through:
So I can determine so I can determine what has been done and what needs done. I do know that the engine was replaced with a long block built by Strictly VW in Irvindale, CA when the odometer was at 18,000 miles (118 or 218?) and my odometer now reads 62,000 miles, so I can determine this engine only has about 44,000 miles on it. He chose to keep the stock fuel injection, even after warnings by Strictly VW,
(This is my favorite part of the paperwork  )
The Fuel injection was maintained by Autosport for the entire time he owned the car. Eventually, sometime in 2012 or 2013, he traded the car to Vintage Motors of Lyons for some model of vintage Porsche (I'm sure I can track the facebook post down somewhere) and shortly afterward, I purchased the vehicle from the dealership in August of 2013. Since then, my goal with the vehicle has been to daily drive the vehicle through college and then begin restoring it once I graduate and have a steady income. Until then, I plan to keep the car in good repair so it can stay on the road for the next four years! I'll be updating this post with my questions and concerns as time goes on so I can keep the vehicle in peak operating condition.
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'69 FI Squareback "Brunhilde" |
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Tram
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Location: Northwest of Normal
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 9:14 am Post subject: |
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That last invoice should read "Customer warned about incompetent 'VW mechanics'" because that's what it is really saying .
Dumbasses. 
That kind of crap just pisses me off.
Beautiful car, by the way. One of its brothers lives in Brooklyn. 
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Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
Those who can- do.
Those who can't? Subaru. |
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68vwfasty
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Joined: March 26, 2014
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 9:16 am Post subject: |
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| That is a really nice looking car. Enjoy it! |
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tysonhemelstrand
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Joined: August 10, 2013
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Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 9:31 am Post subject: |
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| Tram wrote: |
That last invoice should read "Customer warned about incompetent 'VW mechanics'" because that's what it is really saying .
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Yeah, it doesn't end there. This part will probably piss you off even more I've been chasing down an unknown fuel mixture issue for the entire year and a half I've owned the car. I just filled up the tank after a week of very very conservative driving and got 15.2 mpg... I've fixed all the vacuum leaks I found and made sure my sensors and such are in spec, I've been scratching my head for the past few months until I was looking through repair invoices this morning and found this:
They messed with the dad-gum MPS! Is there a factory spec I can set it back to to hopefully sort out my fuel mixture issue? I've gone through everything else it could be and reading this just frustrates me. If they had actually gone through the vacuum system they would have known that there were leaky hoses all over the place! What do I do now? Can I set the MPS back to the factory setting? I don't see anything in the Bentley over adjusting it.
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Tram
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 10:05 am Post subject: |
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| tysonhemelstrand wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
That last invoice should read "Customer warned about incompetent 'VW mechanics'" because that's what it is really saying .
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Yeah, it doesn't end there. This part will probably piss you off even more I've been chasing down an unknown fuel mixture issue for the entire year and a half I've owned the car. I just filled up the tank after a week of very very conservative driving and got 15.2 mpg... I've fixed all the vacuum leaks I found and made sure my sensors and such are in spec, I've been scratching my head for the past few months until I was looking through repair invoices this morning and found this:
They messed with the dad-gum MPS! Is there a factory spec I can set it back to to hopefully sort out my fuel mixture issue? I've gone through everything else it could be and reading this just frustrates me. If they had actually gone through the vacuum system they would have known that there were leaky hoses all over the place! What do I do now? Can I set the MPS back to the factory setting? I don't see anything in the Bentley over adjusting it. |
It's not that big of a deal. Pull your spark plugs and let's see what color the insulators are. To do this right you really need a "sniffer" with the engine at full op temp, but we can guess very close reading the spark plugs.
But first- are you certain that the valves are adjusted, the point gap/ dwell is correct, the timing is correct, and both advances in the distributor are functioning?
But second- check charging system output. A weak charging system directly affects D-jet injection.
But third- check fuel pressure. 28PSI is the target.
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Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
Those who can- do.
Those who can't? Subaru. |
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tysonhemelstrand
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Joined: August 10, 2013
Posts: 147
Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 10:42 am Post subject: |
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| Tram wrote: |
But first- are you certain that the valves are adjusted, the point gap/ dwell is correct, the timing is correct, and both advances in the distributor are functioning?
But second- check charging system output. A weak charging system directly affects D-jet injection.
But third- check fuel pressure. 28PSI is the target.
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Valves were adjusted in December, dwell is spot on 50 degrees, timing is at 0TDC as best as I can get it. The distributor was just rebuild by tasb, and both advances are functioning correctly.
Ah, you got me there. I forgot about this, I'm glad you reminded me. My charging voltage is only 13.1 or so volts, and doesn't change through the RPM range. I tried to replace my voltage regulator with a new solid state one, and it did not charge, so I replaced my old VR. I have new generator brushes, but I need to figure out how to install them. My battery also only sits at about 12 volts when engine is off as opposed to the 12.8-12.9 it should be. I assume this could be either because the battery is bad or because the charging system isn't putting out enough voltage to keep the battery topped off. I'll have to check all of this stuff out.
Fuel pressure is dead on 28PSI.
So, obviously the charging system is something to check on. I really hope it's brushes and not the regulator, because i've missed the return window for the solid state one that was bad, and I can't really pony up the 40 bucks for another. Are instructions on changing the brushes in the Bentley?
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'69 FI Squareback "Brunhilde"
Last edited by tysonhemelstrand on Fri Mar 27, 2015 10:46 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Erik G
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Tram
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Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 23034
Location: Northwest of Normal
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 10:57 am Post subject: |
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| tysonhemelstrand wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
But first- are you certain that the valves are adjusted, the point gap/ dwell is correct, the timing is correct, and both advances in the distributor are functioning?
But second- check charging system output. A weak charging system directly affects D-jet injection.
But third- check fuel pressure. 28PSI is the target.
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Valves were adjusted in December, dwell is spot on 50 degrees, timing is at 0TDC as best as I can get it. The distributor was just rebuild by tasb, and both advances are functioning correctly.
Ah, you got me there. I forgot about this, I'm glad you reminded me. My charging voltage is only 13.1 or so volts, and doesn't change through the RPM range. I tried to replace my voltage regulator with a new solid state one, and it did not charge, so I replaced my old VR. I have new generator brushes, but I need to figure out how to install them. My battery also only sits at about 12 volts when engine is off as opposed to the 12.8-12.9 it should be. I assume this could be either because the battery is bad or because the charging system isn't putting out enough voltage to keep the battery topped off. I'll have to check all of this stuff out.
Fuel pressure is dead on 28PSI.
So, obviously the charging system is something to check on. I really hope it's brushes and not the regulator, because i've missed the return window for the solid state one that was bad, and I can't really pony up the 40 bucks for another. Are instructions on changing the brushes in the Bentley? |
I think there are instructions for brushes there, yes. Make sure the regulator is SOLIDLY GROUNDED.
Don't even think of trying to troubleshoot the FI till this is fixed. Disconnect the battery and get a full charge on it and make sure it holds. The battery may be low due to a weak charging system, but the charging system can also be limited by a defective battery.
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Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
Those who can- do.
Those who can't? Subaru. |
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tysonhemelstrand
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Joined: August 10, 2013
Posts: 147
Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:01 am Post subject: |
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Now for an unrelated issue, I'm not sure if there's been some hackjob wiring done under the dash or not. When I turn one of my turn signals on, both arrows on the gas gauge flash. Is that normal? I would assume when you have your left turn signal on that the left arrow would flash, and the right with the right, but not mine. No matter which way the lever is actually turned, both lights flash simultaneously. Is this a result of bad wiring or are VWs just WEIRD
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D/A/N
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:13 am Post subject: |
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| tysonhemelstrand wrote: |
| Now for an unrelated issue, I'm not sure if there's been some hackjob wiring done under the dash or not. When I turn one of my turn signals on, both arrows on the gas gauge flash. Is that normal? I would assume when you have your left turn signal on that the left arrow would flash, and the right with the right, but not mine. No matter which way the lever is actually turned, both lights flash simultaneously. Is this a result of bad wiring or are VWs just WEIRD |
No, they both flash no matter what. It's one of those "weird" things. |
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sjbartnik
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:40 am Post subject: |
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It's one of those "VW was cheap" things.
On the Beetle/Ghia/Bus there was just one turn signal indicator light that flashed whichever way you indicated. Kind of like a motorcycle. I mean I get it, you don't really need a separate light for each indicator. If you don't know which direction you indicated, you probably shouldn't have a driver's license.
But on the Type 3...why go to the trouble of making two separate lights if you're just gonna make them both blink at the same time? Ah VW... |
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Tram
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:49 am Post subject: |
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| sjbartnik wrote: |
It's one of those "VW was cheap" things.
On the Beetle/Ghia/Bus there was just one turn signal indicator light that flashed whichever way you indicated. Kind of like a motorcycle. I mean I get it, you don't really need a separate light for each indicator. If you don't know which direction you indicated, you probably shouldn't have a driver's license.
But on the Type 3...why go to the trouble of making two separate lights if you're just gonna make them both blink at the same time? Ah VW... |
Bay Bus and late Ghia did it too. you COULD rewire the gauge so that the appropriate arrow goes with the appropriate side signals by disconnecting the Kbl wire on the flasher, cutting the wire linking the two bulbs in the gauge, grounding the bases of the bulbs, and wiring the bulbs inline with the left and right signals at the column... but why?
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Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
Those who can- do.
Those who can't? Subaru. |
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tysonhemelstrand
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Joined: August 10, 2013
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Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 12:11 pm Post subject: |
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The real question is why NOT? No, if that's the way it's intended to be I have no intention of changing it for the time being. Maybe in the future when I start to add things to the system.
Tram, you mentioned earlier that I should make sure the regulator is REALLY well grounded. What should I do to make absolutely sure it's grounded well? I think this weekend I'll try again to reinstall the regulator that I assumed was "bad". It is solid state, there really isn't something that could go wrong with it internally.
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Erik G
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 12:17 pm Post subject: |
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| tysonhemelstrand wrote: |
| It is solid state, there really isn't something that could go wrong with it internally. |
ehhh - I had one that was bad right out of the box when they first started selling them instead of the old ones, back in the 90's. It's not likely but it is possible
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Donnie strickland
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tysonhemelstrand
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 12:48 pm Post subject: |
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| Erik G wrote: |
| tysonhemelstrand wrote: |
| It is solid state, there really isn't something that could go wrong with it internally. |
ehhh - I had one that was bad right out of the box when they first started selling them instead of the old ones, back in the 90's. It's not likely but it is possible |
Even more reason why I should have returned it to aircooled.net before the return window closed  oh well, my fault. If necessary I can find the cash to buy a new regulator, I just wish I could get more than 15 miles to the gallon.
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Bobnotch
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 1:10 pm Post subject: |
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| tysonhemelstrand wrote: |
Tram, you mentioned earlier that I should make sure the regulator is REALLY well grounded. What should I do to make absolutely sure it's grounded well? |
I'm not Tram, but you want to get the spots under the "mounting feet" of the Voltage Regulator to be clean bare metal. Also clean up the base of the VR as well. You could even add a seperate ground wire off of 1 of the VR mounting screws. All of these things will help. You could clean up the terminals on it too, but not sure if that'll help as much.
Beautiful car by the way. 
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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tysonhemelstrand
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Posts: 147
Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 1:21 pm Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
I'm not Tram, but you want to get the spots under the "mounting feet" of the Voltage Regulator to be clean bare metal. Also clean up the base of the VR as well. You could even add a seperate ground wire off of 1 of the VR mounting screws. All of these things will help. You could clean up the terminals on it too, but not sure if that'll help as much.
Beautiful car by the way. |
Thanks Bob, appreciate the assistance even if you aren't Tram 
I was reading up on voltage regulators in the Type 3 forum and saw this post from Russ back in '05
| Russ Wolfe wrote: |
If this is one of the new solid state regulators, make sure you are not touching the body of the car with the housing. In a T-3 it mounts different than in a T-1.
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Thread for reference:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=140102&highlight=regulator
So the body of the regulator itself should NOT touch the body of the car? I'm kind of confused about that. What part of it is considered the "housing"?
Also, if I ran a separate grounding wire, where should I route it to? The battery ground strap? Sorry if it's a stupid question, car electrical is new to me 
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Bobnotch
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 1:55 pm Post subject: |
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| tysonhemelstrand wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
I'm not Tram, but you want to get the spots under the "mounting feet" of the Voltage Regulator to be clean bare metal. Also clean up the base of the VR as well. You could even add a seperate ground wire off of 1 of the VR mounting screws. All of these things will help. You could clean up the terminals on it too, but not sure if that'll help as much.
Beautiful car by the way. |
Thanks Bob, appreciate the assistance even if you aren't Tram
I was reading up on voltage regulators in the Type 3 forum and saw this post from Russ back in '05
| Russ Wolfe wrote: |
If this is one of the new solid state regulators, make sure you are not touching the body of the car with the housing. In a T-3 it mounts different than in a T-1.
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Thread for reference:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=140102&highlight=regulator
So the body of the regulator itself should NOT touch the body of the car? I'm kind of confused about that. What part of it is considered the "housing"?
Also, if I ran a separate grounding wire, where should I route it to? The battery ground strap? Sorry if it's a stupid question, car electrical is new to me |
What Russ was meaning by the "body" of the VR, is the upper portion of it, as it's "electrically" hot (has voltage to it). On t-3s VW had a piece of card stock on the body side of the VR. After many years, the card disappears. However, with the "new style" VRs, the entire upper part of it is electrically charged (has 12 volts on it), versus the old style being electrically hot on a few of the terminals. This makes keeping anything metal as far away from the VR as possible. This especially includes the seat springs. If that card is missing, you'll need to fake something to replace it, but, it needs to be non-metalic.
As far as adding a ground, use 1 of the mounting screws, and run a wire to the kick panel, or even just another spot on the inner rocker assembly. What you're after is a CLEAN spot, so you get a good ground. Paint and rust interfear with getting a good ground connection.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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tysonhemelstrand
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Posts: 147
Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 5:33 pm Post subject: |
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Would any of this contribute to my old mechanical VR working perfectly, while my new solid state one never worked at all? Even after removing the new solid state VR while It wasn't working, the old mechanical VR worked once I put it back in. Is there something different that needs to be done for the solid state regulators and not for the mechanical ones? Or is that what the card stock insulation you mentioned is for?
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