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Syncro Fuel Gauge Sender Replacement
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DaveWesty
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Joined: March 11, 2009
Posts: 9
Location: Toronto, Canada
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 3:12 pm    Post subject: Syncro Fuel Gauge Sender Replacement Reply with quote

Some pics for those of you contemplating replacing the fuel gauge sender on your Syncro.

First tip: be patient. It takes time to remove those rusty 10mm nuts. Work them back and forth *many* times and use lots of liquid wrench. Learn to love your wee vice grips.

Second: don't break a stud. Removing the inner metal ring with the studs on it will add an hour or more and much frustration. It is a fairly solid bit of metal and you can only get one hand into the tank at a time. I was fortunate and the threads on the original were fine. You'd need one of those hack saw blade holders to cut the old one ... and some way to keep the metal filings out of the gas tank. Maybe I am getting weak in my old age, but I doubt you could bend it with one hand.

Third: you need to drain the tank down almost empty (to 'reserve' levels). I had run about 200 miles and the fuel level was level with the bottom of the opening. Since you have the line from the fuel pump off, stick it into a tank (I had a low profile motor boat gas tank) and turn the ignition on-and off a whole bunch of times to empty the tank some more. Goofy, but it works.

Use lots of liquid wrench. I used a whole can. Get two.

Took me about 2 hours to jack it up, clean it off and get the charcoal filter, receiver dryer and fuel filter off. I then doused it with liquid wrench and left it till the next day

Took about 4 hours for the rest, then cleaning up.

I removed the receiver-dryer as my a/c is not hooked up and I have to replace it anyway. If you can't remove it, get some rope etc to try to pull it out of the way. You need every bit of room you can get.

Get a REALLY BRIGHT headlight - the kind that goes on your head - from camping supply places. I used a 1500 Lumen bike light to provide light for the pictures. If you are past 50, get your reading glasses.

I removed the various tie-wraps holding the bundle of wires that runs across the bottom of the circular plate, put a tie wrap around them loosely, then tied I small rope on that to pull them out of the way a little bit. Makes getting at the nuts on the lower right easier. Make sure the grommet on the grey plastic covered electrical lines that go to the ECU is properly installed. It would be nasty if it leaked.

I used a can of brake cleaner to clean off the area around the opening. I travel logging roads a lot and had a lot of sand a wee rocks in there. Clean it thoroughly - don't want that stuff in your gas tank.

Oetiker clamps/pliers. The fuel lines on mine were all held with the Oetiker type clamps, including the hose in the tank. I strongly recommend using these, they are very reliable and if you have the pliers, not too much trouble to remove. Side cutters work, but they don't have as much length/leverage as the pliers. Hose clamps leak far too easily. Not cheap, but better than fuel leaks. Note: if you use an Oetiker clamp, orient it so that the "bulge" is accessible to the next person removing it!

Hose in tank ... I shaved down the end to taper slightly to make is easier getting into the plastic cup/box in the tank. I did not want to force it into the cup/box in case I broke something. Don't push in too far ... it does not want to come out.

Anyway ... have a look at the pics ... and Good Luck!

I found the way to post images ... never done this before...

After I cleaned it up:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Charcoal cannister and Receiver Dry removed, note location of screw holding fuel filter clamp:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Shows how much room you have:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Nuts off, ready to remove old unit, note the grommet at left has pulled away from the body ... don't forget to press this back in when done.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Note Oetiker clamp on the in-tank hose, easiest to cut with Oetiker pliers:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Inside the gas tank, filler tube at the back:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Pry the old unit off - gently, the tank is plastic you don't want to gouge the inner surface where the seal sits:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Removed the old seal, one handed:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Ready to go ... gauge works!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Last edited by DaveWesty on Mon Aug 24, 2015 6:45 am; edited 1 time in total
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syncrodoka
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Joined: December 27, 2005
Posts: 11473
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 4:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Syncro Fuel Gauge Sender Replacement Reply with quote

DaveWesty wrote:
Anyway ... have a look at the pics ... and Good Luck!

Where are the pix?
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ALIKA T3
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Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 4377
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_search.php?search_author=DaveWesty

Dave: integrate them in the post, that's nicer Wink
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syncrodoka
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Joined: December 27, 2005
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Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm, yes it makes much more sense when the picture are with the words.
There is a forum code that can be cut and pasted from the gallery.
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