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nick69square
Samba Member
Joined: March 06, 2004
Posts: 1
Location: Riverside, CA
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 Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2004 11:27 pm Post subject: Lowering a 69 Squareback?! |
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Hey all, I am new to type 3's, but loving it! I have owned beetles before and just lowered the bug by the "select-a-drop" process with adjustable front axle. How does on lower a type 3? Also, what is the cheapest, and most expensive process available?
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Lolo
Samba Member
Joined: November 13, 2003
Posts: 55
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| Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2004 2:52 am Post subject: |
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Alohe Nick ,
Ive asked this ?? so many tmes here so try to do a search on it , It;s brought up every week . Also It's pretty easy and cheap. Good lock and dont stop with the ????'s 
Also many answers on the Talk Shop Forum's.  |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 23358
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2004 8:24 am Post subject: |
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Like Lolo said, this is a very common question that gets aked about once a month. You could do a search for it, using the key words type3 lowering or a combination of things like that, or I could just give you a quicky write up I did.
This question comes up repeatedly on this forum, so I thought I'd lay the ground work for the front.
Step 1) Raise the front and place the car on jack stands, removing the front tires at this time.
Step 2) Remove the front shocks and mark the lower trailing arm with a reference line on both the trailing arm and the end of the torsion bar.
Step 3) Remove the nut on the end of the upper ball joint, and seperate the ball joint from the trailing arm, repeat for the lower ball joint. Leave the ball joints attached to the spindle. These nuts will be very tight, as the torque spec is 80 ftlbs, so you might need a cheater pipe.
Step 4) Loosen the nut on the grub screw, and with an 8mm allen wrench remove the grub screw from the lower trailing arm, and then remove the bolt and keeper just above the trailing arm.
Step 5) Pull the lower trailing arm off (some have reported using a puller for arms that were rusted together, others have said using a hammer will help work it off), and using the reference mark as a guide, set the desired spline drop. Raise the arm to drop, lower the arm to raise it. Note each outer spline equals 9 degrees or about 2.5" of drop. Most drops are 2 splines, any more than that, then shorter shocks are required.
Reassembly is the reverse of the above disassembly proceedures. Be sure when completed to have a front end alignment done as soon as possible, as the car will have at least 1" of toe out and this will eat the front tires quickly.
I hope this helps.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
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R.Rabbit
Samba Member
Joined: June 06, 2003
Posts: 1565
Location: Texas
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| Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2004 6:33 pm Post subject: |
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hey Bob on a swing how much is an inner click?
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 23358
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2004 7:35 pm Post subject: |
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I think it's supposed to be about 2 9/16" (9*), but it could be a little more due to wear. On my son's car we originally went down 3 outer, but came back up 1 outer then dropped the inner 1 spline. This amounted to dropping it about 1.5 splines, or about 3.5 inches. On my IRS car I only dropped it 1 outer, and this dropped it about 2.5 inches. This was after I went 2 only to find out I went 1 too much.  I think the hardest part of doing the whole rear was getting the torsion bar end plates back on, as they can be a real pain. On the IRS cars I found I needed to raise the rear a lot higher off the ground, and remove the outer CV joints from the hubs to allow the diagonal arm to drop out of the way to get to the spring plate. I tried to do it twice before I found that little trick. 
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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R.Rabbit
Samba Member
Joined: June 06, 2003
Posts: 1565
Location: Texas
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SCOTTIE BEE
Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 33
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| Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 7:24 pm Post subject: adding pix to bobs instructions.(which were very precise) th |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
Like Lolo said, this is a very common question that gets aked about once a month. You could do a search for it, using the key words type3 lowering or a combination of things like that, or I could just give you a quicky write up I did.
This question comes up repeatedly on this forum, so I thought I'd lay the ground work for the front.
Step 1) Raise the front and place the car on jack stands, removing the front tires at this time.
Step 2) Remove the front shocks and mark the lower trailing arm with a reference line on both the trailing arm and the end of the torsion bar.
Step 3) Remove the nut on the end of the upper ball joint, and seperate the ball joint from the trailing arm, repeat for the lower ball joint. Leave the ball joints attached to the spindle. These nuts will be very tight, as the torque spec is 80 ftlbs, so you might need a cheater pipe.
Step 4) Loosen the nut on the grub screw, and with an 8mm allen wrench remove the grub screw from the lower trailing arm, and then remove the bolt and keeper just above the trailing arm.
Step 5) Pull the lower trailing arm off (some have reported using a puller for arms that were rusted together, others have said using a hammer will help work it off), and using the reference mark as a guide, set the desired spline drop. Raise the arm to drop, lower the arm to raise it. Note each outer spline equals 9 degrees or about 2.5" of drop. Most drops are 2 splines, any more than that, then shorter shocks are required.
Reassembly is the reverse of the above disassembly proceedures. Be sure when completed to have a front end alignment done as soon as possible, as the car will have at least 1" of toe out and this will eat the front tires quickly.
I hope this helps. |
2a-
2b-
3-
4a-
4b-
5a-
5b- (4 notches)
thanks for the step by step bob, hope the piks help the rest of you.
[/img]
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 23358
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 8:11 pm Post subject: |
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No problem on the step by steps, and the pics go great with the instructions.  Glad to have helped you out. The 4 spline drop should put the nose into the weeds.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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jaransonT3 
Samba Member
Joined: January 01, 2005
Posts: 1310
Location: Dearborn, MI
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| Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 8:59 pm Post subject: |
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It should be noted that you do NOT need to separate the upper ball joint when lowering the car. Just pop either end of the shock off and then pop the lower ball joint. Adjust the lower trailing arm and then put it all back together. The upper just follows the lower and provides an anti-sway feature.
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'66 Square
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kastoo
Samba Member
Joined: November 05, 2005
Posts: 21
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| Posted: Sat Feb 11, 2006 10:49 pm Post subject: Re: adding pix to bobs instructions.(which were very precise |
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Nice! Now how do you lower the back?
| SCOTTIE BEE wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
Like Lolo said, this is a very common question that gets aked about once a month. You could do a search for it, using the key words type3 lowering or a combination of things like that, or I could just give you a quicky write up I did.
This question comes up repeatedly on this forum, so I thought I'd lay the ground work for the front.
Step 1) Raise the front and place the car on jack stands, removing the front tires at this time.
Step 2) Remove the front shocks and mark the lower trailing arm with a reference line on both the trailing arm and the end of the torsion bar.
Step 3) Remove the nut on the end of the upper ball joint, and seperate the ball joint from the trailing arm, repeat for the lower ball joint. Leave the ball joints attached to the spindle. These nuts will be very tight, as the torque spec is 80 ftlbs, so you might need a cheater pipe.
Step 4) Loosen the nut on the grub screw, and with an 8mm allen wrench remove the grub screw from the lower trailing arm, and then remove the bolt and keeper just above the trailing arm.
Step 5) Pull the lower trailing arm off (some have reported using a puller for arms that were rusted together, others have said using a hammer will help work it off), and using the reference mark as a guide, set the desired spline drop. Raise the arm to drop, lower the arm to raise it. Note each outer spline equals 9 degrees or about 2.5" of drop. Most drops are 2 splines, any more than that, then shorter shocks are required.
Reassembly is the reverse of the above disassembly proceedures. Be sure when completed to have a front end alignment done as soon as possible, as the car will have at least 1" of toe out and this will eat the front tires quickly.
I hope this helps. |
2a-
2b-
3-
4a-
4b-
5a-
5b- (4 notches)
thanks for the step by step bob, hope the piks help the rest of you.
[/img] |
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