Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts  See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top
Page: Previous  1, 2
Forum Index -> Vanagon Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Wildthings
Samba Member


Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 43768

Wildthings is offline 

PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 9:30 am    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

For shits and grins just rotate the wires 180 around the cap and see what happens, quick and easy to so and undo.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Bman
Samba Member


Joined: April 28, 2005
Posts: 891
Location: South Coast, Oregon
Bman is offline 

PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 11:57 am    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
For shits and grins just rotate the wires 180 around the cap and see what happens, quick and easy to so and undo.


Good idea. Thanks.
_________________
~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Bman
Samba Member


Joined: April 28, 2005
Posts: 891
Location: South Coast, Oregon
Bman is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 3:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

Man, what a long time coming. As a newbie noob to DIY engine rebuild, I guess we must expect that rebuilds and getting a close to entropy vehicle in order and moving again will be the work of gigantic persistence. So be it, so far I have not given up, but I have used the help of others and mechanics to get this far.

So the no start turned out to be my failure to take note of distributor gear placement when rebuilding, needless to say a 180 degree plug turn around got it going. So I took the distributor gear out and replaced according to TDC and timed it as best we could. Engine starts, idles roughly.

On to my oil leaks, the Rocky Jennings oil manifold unit's pipe was leaking between cylinder #3 and #4, loosen, refit and tighten.

Crankshaft oil leak turned out to be my using a 2WD Crankshaft pulley Seal in place of the $60 syncro seal. The syncro seal has some extra rubber on it to fit with the syncro pulley and pressed on race, this allows for engine submerging conditions.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Yes you can use a 2wd seal on a syncro, but you need to use a 2wd pulley with NO race. Photo below shows the race that I'm talking about:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I confirmed this by looking at the dirty extra syncro engine I have.

As a side note, the crankshaft pulley bolt does not take a washer when reinstalling, just be sure to torque to 258 lbs as per the Bentley.

Now that my leaks are secure, I tried starting the engine to give it a proper break in period, this was after I drove it gently 2 blocks to mechanic. I'm hoping we did not put a significant load on the engine to effect break in. I tried break in @ 2000 rpm for 20 minutes. during this time the oil pressure remained low (approx. 10-12 psi) and the idiot oil light came on after 10 minutes. I turned the engine off at that point as I'm getting confused again.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Also, looks like my fuel gauge does not work either!

I'm not sure why this oil pressure is low and why the idiot light comes on, this is what worries me. I used the GoWesty larger volume oil pump in the rebuild and the oil level is within specs. Just trying to get a functional engine at this point. When I'm home later I will check the oil pressure with my own gauge in the engine...

Also I noticed that the front drive/bearings is making a loud-ish noise. I need to check and confirm the front wheel bearings, may be shit after 8 years of immobility.

feel free to offer advice or opinions...
_________________
~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Bman
Samba Member


Joined: April 28, 2005
Posts: 891
Location: South Coast, Oregon
Bman is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 12:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

Ok on-going idle issue. Van still running rough with a tendency to stall at start up. Seems as if I have a fuel injection issue going on. I first thought of Ken Wilford's "Idle Switch Adjustment for 85-92 Vanagon" article at:

https://www.vanagain.com/articles/page/2/

Perhaps my Throttle Body was out of adjustment, the article says to listen for the switch "clicks" at rest and fully open with engine off. I heard neither on my existing TB. I switched the TB with a spare I had that I could here the "clicks."

After switching, I start the van, still off kilter, and got the engine to rev at 2,500, after a few minutes, break in with no load, I realized that I didn't have to press the gas to keep van at 2,500 rpm. I then would engage the gas pedal to see if I could get an idle around 950, when I did this the idle would fall to 1,100 rpm, but then climb back up to 2,500 rpm repeatedly.

A concurrent issue was that at start up my oil pressure was around 48 psi, as the oil temp increased it would lower...32, 20 and then 10 psi. I have of course learned that this makes sense, as oil becomes thinner the warmer it gets. I do need to get an oil temp gauge hooked up to track along with pressure. However, as the engine went from 2,500 rpm to 1,100 rpm after my gas pedal interruption the oil pressure would fall from 20 plus to 10 psi, again repeatedly. Is this normal behavior? Is 10 psi normal at idle?

My Plan:

1. Disconnect the Idle Control Valve (ICV) wire, the approx 3-4 inch cylinder on top of phelum and see effect on engine surging. If still rough I am told that the Throttle Body, Idle Control Unit (ICU), and/or Air Flow Meter can be worn or bad.
- The ICU is behind the passenger rear light assembly and is a relay like box that is essential in the ignition system. I am confident that mine is OK as we vetted this during my ignition troubles a few posts up.

2. replace the Air Flow Meter, I have a few extra for the 2.1, and I'm sure one is good as I bought it new a decade ago for my Westy and then did a Tiico conversion shortly after. See if change in idle.

3. Throttle Body. If worn gaps can be created that cause air to rush in while plate is closed and results in rough..or surging idle? I will have to see if I have other spares around? Could the replace Tb be in need of an idle switch adjustment? I may try to turn the Allen Screw in the slot on the switch to effect change.

4. Disconnect the ICV, shoot it with electronic cleaner and blow with compressed air, perhaps it was stuck open. See if I have a working spare to swap out, and note idle changes.

If none of the above works, I'm back to my WTF starting point, a usual state in my fight against entropy!

Again, this is my first rebuild and my excruciating efforts to become my own mechanic so my Vans can be self-sustaining. By writing all this out, the job becomes clear and less daunting.

Even after I get the engine dialed in, I did notice a grinding like noise from the front while driving, bearings? I hope bearings and not a front differential issue. regardless, next up will be front end brake, bearing and axle check.
_________________
~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
AtlasShrugged
Samba Member


Joined: October 30, 2008
Posts: 1539
Location: Decatur, Ga. USA
AtlasShrugged is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 1:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

Is 10 psi normal at idle?

Yes..about average pressure..could go lower when very hot.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Bman
Samba Member


Joined: April 28, 2005
Posts: 891
Location: South Coast, Oregon
Bman is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 1:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

AtlasShrugged wrote:
Is 10 psi normal at idle?

Yes..about average pressure..could go lower when very hot.


Sweet, thanks for confirming.
_________________
~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
AtlasShrugged
Samba Member


Joined: October 30, 2008
Posts: 1539
Location: Decatur, Ga. USA
AtlasShrugged is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 2:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

Your low speed oil pressure warning switch kicks on at about 4.4psi (0.3bar) so 10psi is well above that.

The Bentley says: at oil temperature of 80C (176F) and RPM of
2000, oil pressure should be 2.0 bar (29 psi)

176*F is not too hot for oil (like just warming up) and 29psi should be easy enough to see.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Bman
Samba Member


Joined: April 28, 2005
Posts: 891
Location: South Coast, Oregon
Bman is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 10:27 am    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

Had a visit from the Excellent Jason Newton, Peace Vans Fame, who helped me run through some quick diagnostics to get Syncro engine back on track. yes long time hiatus as life got in the way.

Jason, checked that the Idle Control Valve was functioning correctly, but the van had a rough cold start and was still not idling comfortably. For the cold start we used the Ohm-meter to determine that ground leads needed to be cahanged for the ECU ground and the fuel pump ground. We heard the ICV clicking so that worked. Idle improved with the ICV unplugged, and so we determined that my Idle Stabilizer Unit was in fact probably shorting out.

Jason also helped me identify a vacumn leak by my driver's side manifold...there was a manifold bolt that was stripped and I thought I could get away with it...but NO, do it right. I took the manifold pipes and seal off, tried to use a longer M8 1.25 thread bolt, but still could not get a torque. So off comes the manifold, I drilled the bolt hole out with a 21/64 drive, tapped the drilled hole and then used a thread fill tool to add a M8/1.25 plug in the new hole, reassembled and using original M8 bolt was able to achieve 15ft/lb torque as per the Bentley. Replaced the manifold seal as well.

Replaced the ISU with a spare I had, and now need to get a new battery to test all....and then onto Axles. 2018 is the year for my Syncro, even though lots of other needs are constantly calling for my $$ as well. Excited to figure this step out though.
_________________
~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Bman
Samba Member


Joined: April 28, 2005
Posts: 891
Location: South Coast, Oregon
Bman is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2018 10:07 am    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

Always trying to move my projects forward, incrementally, but still forward...

For the long game in saving the syncro, I found a donor van with the help of Karl Von Mullendorf in eastern Oregon to harvest rear quarter panels...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thanks to a my friend and fellow T3 owner Moe for the hand and great company this weekend too. On to the CV Axle rebuild, 944's for the rear.
_________________
~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
joetiger Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: January 27, 2005
Posts: 4037
Location: denver
joetiger is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2018 1:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

I love the pictures of the whole giant side being cut off...Can't wait to see the finished product!
_________________
Joe T.

'86 NAHT Vanagon GL Syncro/ supercharged ABA 2.0
'85 928S
'19 Golf R
'02 Beetle GLS

"get metaphysical with it. if it's simply a means to get to and from places, it will let you down. if it becomes your zen, it can't fail you." -dabaron

"Still, it's good to be afield."--VWagabond
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Instagram Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Bman
Samba Member


Joined: April 28, 2005
Posts: 891
Location: South Coast, Oregon
Bman is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2019 5:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

March 2019

This project is slow, snail paced...but be it known I have not given up yet. Above I said 2018 was the year of my syncro, well it turns out I did not do much of anything, I had to re-roof and side part of the house. LIFE.

Anyway, the good news is I was able to get my 944 cv joints and axles assembled, greased and on the syncro this weekend. I did buy a tube of T3 Techniques NEO grease, super expensive tube...used this mostly around the new cv joints, but had to use the Redline grease to fill the extra. I also added the final pushrod tube cover and had to replace a coolant clamp. Finally I was able to test my battery and it holds a 12.64 V charge and so I popped it in and was able to fire up the syncro.

Here I am in me natural habitat, under the syncro...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Clean it all up after assembly...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


She moved, rather noisily, but I was able to get the engine idle and warm for at least 45 minutes, drove about 4 miles around town and was able to park it in the backyard:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


i am confident that the engine issues are addressed and I am now moving on to the drivetrain and suspension. I think I am going to have a shop do the heavy lifting of the suspension upgrades, i really want this van to be my daily driver by the end of the year. I am looking to add:

Schwenk syncro.org springs
Bilstein B6 14" performance shocks
T3 Technique front and rear suspension bushings
Burleymotorsports drivetrain bushing kit

after which I will asses the driveshaft, get it on and move onto the fuel gauge not working issue (probably my fuel sender) and the vacuum/locker situation assessment.

Yeah, not done in a long run.
_________________
~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Vanagon All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page: Previous  1, 2
Page 2 of 2

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2020, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB