Need suggestions on engine build - cam, etc.

[Skulptorchaz]

I'll do my best at explaining my engine situation, to keep questions down, and try not to get too long winded. This is in a Manx Clone:
I have a rather fresh 1915 (only 2 seasons on it) with stock (opened up) heads and C45 grind SCAT cam (#20006). I know the heads were restricting it and had plans to put Panchitos on it this winter. (Hope CB has a sale soon) I am also under the impression that my heads were allowing it to get too hot on the freeway. (230*+ over 55mph) I have dual EMPI knock off Webers and Sidewinder pipes. It also developed a low oil pressure just before I tucked it away for winter (10# idle and 25# down the slab).
So, that said, I am having an engine builder go thru it. I'm suspecting wiped out bearings from what I found on the magnet.
I am planning on a set of Panchitos, another later model cam, full flow the case, and a set of 1.25 rockers. I am not sure what would be the best cam for my street driving as I like to use it as my "daily", weather permitting. AND, I like the "go fast pedal" a little too much. (who can blame me) I also want to drive it to So.Cal. (from Indiana), eventually, as well as other long distance Buggy happenings.
So, what do you think?? Cam?? Other stuff??
And as per usual, I'm on a budget but, I want to do it right, as best I can.
Thanks in advance.
Chaz

[vwracerdave]

What rear tire size and transaxle gearing do you have? If you're still geared tall as in your previous threads, I'd suggest an Engle W-110 with the 1.25 rockers and the Panchito heads. If you have lowered the gearing then W-120 cam.
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most guys know here I can't stand those carbs, but here's what I'll tell you

The engine you have outlined will work fine. I strongly recommend round filing that linkage, get either a center pull or a CB Crossbar setup.
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[Skulptorchaz]

Dave,
Yeah, same tires and gears. I'm stuck with them. I will do all the "tricks" and/or stock specs to keep her cool but, I'm saddled with them up until it is the very last thing I can do. (I hope it isn't) Thank you for the tip on the 110. I have read and heard several people talk highly of them but I also have heard people say your "set-up" is most critical. I was not sure of my set-up. I'm also curious as to how high of compression I should shoot for?

John,
I know those carbs can be a bear but, again, it's what I got. They worked well for me as long as I have had them - once I got them set-up. Maybe next year I'll move up.
If I'm not mistaken, the linkage I have is "center pull". (???) I do have the CB cast air cleaners that I will be putting on after the rebuild. I will use the arms, heim joints, etc., that I have but, I have to make "adapters" to mate them up. It's an real easy machine job. (The angles are also more straight up and down now too.)
Those pressed steel air cleaners SUCK!! I found a pile of sand in them after 2 days of very light play on the dunes. Plus, I put in the jet extensions (Card Doctors, or something like that).
Any suggestion on compression??
Thank you for your insight!!!!

[[email protected]]

you have the Chinese Prison Camp built crossbar linkage. The diagonal arms are completely in the wrong position. The 2 down rods need to be as vertical as possible, but even with one another. Right now yours are cattywhompus to 45 degrees, will never work properly.
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[sled]

this is the linkage you should get

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C31-129-941-110
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drive your split.

[Brian_e]

Or this one. Then you get the good sturdy filter tops and bases as well. A good solid linkage is the key to dual carbs working well.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Linkage-and-Air-Filter-Kit-Type-1-IDF-and-DRLA-p/cb6485.htm

Brian

[Alstrup]

Hello.
I agree on the linkage. Cross bar linkages are typically not able to get installed correct in a buggy due to space límitations.
I disagree on the cam. The C45 is actually a decent cam, at least as good as the W110. If your buggy is really high ratioéd gearing wise, there may be an idea in going down a notch in cam duration, but I would just install a late 4,375 R/P transmission and be done with it. Those transmissions go for decent money. So IMHO keep the C45. make sure you get the engine built tight and with some CR. At least 9-1. 9,5 is better.
Ratio rockers. Initially I would advise against them if you have that high gear ratio. Then you would need all the lower rpm torque you can get. Ratio rockers do not aid on that account. Then it will be better to loose a little power on top.
Panchito´s, CHECK! - Get the version with cnc´d chambers.
Empi IDF´s. OK. You need to increase the venturi size to 32 mm.
Ignition. Lock the 009 and get a Black box and take advantage of the manifold vacum. That improves throttle response, engine temps and fuel efficiency on longer cruises especially.
Temperature. First make sure you have ALL the nessessary engine tin. DO NOT leave out half the tin just because its a buggy. Then gear the fan for the cruising rpm. Make sure the engine is dialed in properly. THEN you will know if nyou really hjave a temp problem. You may have in hot weather. Then a small thermostat controlled external cooler does wonders. Use a Mocal or Setrab sandwich type thermostat. Stay away from the hose type.

T

[Skulptorchaz]

That is, basically, what I have. I bought/have the cast (heavy) air cleaners (as mentioned earlier) and a center pull linkage from the original dual carb set up. It's all good and functioned fine except for allowing in sand (sucked!). I just have to machine two small adapters to mate the two. (15 minutes work and they will work fine.)
Also, as mentioned before, the vertical rods were moved to a more vertical position after the pic was taken.
The carb and air cleaner set up is perfectly fine. I'm more concerned about the engine set up. Fabrication is what I do (36 years) but setting up engines is not.
Thanks for all the help guys!

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I would run 9:1, and run a 34mm venturi. I think the 1.25s are a bit of a waste on this level of engine though, if you have 1.1s just use those.

[Dr OnHolliday]

Off topic - but is your engine and transaxle still cantilevered off the frame in the stock configuration? If so, adding the tow hitch seems sure to fatigue and break the frame horns...
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1965 Type 1 sunroof Baja / about 70k miles on self-rebuilt '74 1600 and counting / SP heads and aftermarket valve keepers / non-doghouse shroud with external cooler and filter / 1.5 qt extended sump / Weber 32/36 DFAV progressive carb / 009 dist with Pertronix / 1.25 ratio rockers and ball adjusters / 1.5" stainless steel J-pipes and carbon steel baja exhaust

[Skulptorchaz]

NOW we're talkin!
Alstrup,
My buggy is kinda high geared. 3.88 and 27'' tall tires, which I don't think is hatefully tall. I need to find the engine combination that will accept the trany and tires. Those are just not on the list of changes this year. I just can't do it all, as much as I'd like to.
I have the stock rockers in it but picked up the 1.2 rockers that I can use as well. I will get the Panchito's you mentioned. The carbs are 40's with 115 mains, 220 air, and 57 idles. Not sure what you meant with "Lock the 009..."? "Lose", maybe?? I do have an electronic ignition in it. I am definitely looking to keep the temp down. I have all the tin, even the "bit". I was contemplating the 356 alternator pulley if it comes to that. I do have the thermostat and cooler. I'm hoping I don't need to use it, but can. I was also thinking about a stock bus cooler and fab the tin around it (I have a fab and welding shop.) if that is a good idea. I've seen it done but not sure if it is recommended. I will need some guidance on the "springs" if it comes to that.

John,
9:1 sounds good. So the carb needs to breathe better too. Got it. (mo' money, mo' money, mo' money... lol) But, given I have both sets of rockers, you feel the 1:1 is better. No problem.

Doc,
The hitch does not come from the frame horns alone. It is also mounted to the trany mounts and roll cage. And altho it really isn't for a trailer, per se, it could pull a small one at some point. It is more for a bike rack or possible carrier.

Thanks again guys. As usual, you are a much appreciated wealth of info.
Chaz

[Alstrup]

3,88 R/P and 27" tyres is a WAY to high gearing for a 1914. That means that at 60 mph the engine is at approx. 2600 rpm. and approx 68 mph @ 3000. It takes a stout engine to handle that properly.
If you swop to an AM transmission with 4,37 R/P you will raise the rpm to about 2900 at 60 mph. Then the engine will really wake up and make the buggy move, in a hurry, if you need it.
Swopping to a good used AM transmission is much cheaper (and faster) than cracking the case and exhange cam, lifters etc.
then you will also notice that your engine suddenly does not get so warm either. Win win.

T

[[email protected]]

it also appears your diagonal arms are bent, or your rear suspension bushings are all shot. Look at that negative camber! I thought you had a lowered swing axle initially.
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[bugguy1967]

I cannot say this works all the time in any application, but my black 67 hardtop Bug cruises at 2900 RPM@65 MPH with just a super mild 1776. 8.1:1 comp, FK7, stock 043 Mex heads, 40 IDFs, 1 3/8" header. I've driven for hours in all types of weather, and it never overheated, shut off, anything... It would seem that a ton of power isn't needed.