Torque on bell housing bolts for automatic?

[IdahoDoug]

So, I cannot find anywhere the torque for mating the auto and WBX in the Bentley. Anyone know this offhand? Thanks
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1993 Toyota LandCruiser, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[wesitarz]

37.6 in Bentley 22ft.lb. but for the 090 trans 37.8, 41 ft.lb. That explains the 2 torque specs in the vanagonauts torque spec list

[Terry Kay]

<<I will admit there a a few that should be adhered to, like head bolts, ring gears & pinions.
Not flex plate bolts or bell housing bolts.>>

There is some stuff that is a must.
There is some stuff that isn't anywhere as critical.

Door hinge & bumper bolts don't fit into this equasion.

Maybe they should be.

Bell housing bolts are common sense torque specs.
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T.K.

[IdahoDoug]

Terry,

I guess you forgot the thread you contributed on that was someone else looking for flex plate to torque converter torque figures? I was a great thread, a long thread, and pointed out a HUGE error in the Bentley. I benefited from that greatly as I nearly made the same mistake others have last year.

Here, I am looking for the bell housing to engine bolt torque as clearly stated in the subject "Torque on bell housing bolts for automatic?"

Thanks for the number and the reference! As always, SAMBA and the great members herein come to the rescue.
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1993 Toyota LandCruiser, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[Terry Kay]

I am sorry I misread or misconstrued my reply on that one.

I don't think I have seen anyone use exact torque specs on the bell housing either.

I just tighten them down.
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T.K.

[IdahoDoug]

I just had to razz ya!😊. By complete coincidence I read that years old thread this morning because I am putting my rebuilt WBX back in. You are free to razz back if I ever, ever forget anything!! Cough....
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1993 Toyota LandCruiser, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[BavarianWrench]

Terry, your hands are the intuitive torque wrench of the gods. For those less fortunate. There are, charts, specs for bolt grade based on diameter of bolt and specs per application. Tools with torque angles, buzzers, lights, vibrations and clicks will help those who have not developed a relationship like you have with the mechanical lord. I believe our friend Doug was looking for a spec, not speculation. If you don't feel the divine directing you to come to a rest as threads mesh and hardware stretches you should get good tools and have specs. I'm guessing Doug is charting the accuracy of his relationship by feeling his way through some of this and verifying with specs? I sense he is a spiritual yet mechanical sort of person? Feel the force don't force the Feel. If you've read this and are you're wondering WTF? I'm trapped in the City doing landscaping this weekend. This evening I'm cleaning the old beer out of the fridge too. Thanks to TheSamba for some entertainment.

[IdahoDoug]

Ah, poetry in structural assemblage, and in the seam between art and science. I am in the last few hours of a huge mechanical resto of my beautiful Mango and wanting to do the correct fastener finishing as that ends. Close, so close. Miles to go before I sleep, and only a few dozen fasteners are between me and the turn of a key that wakes my road trip buddy after more than a year. Whew.....
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1993 Toyota LandCruiser, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[tpinthepack]

Doug
When I did my Torque Converter bolts I purchased new ones here for 6 bucks:
http://www.van-cafe.com/page_1732_1501/torque-converter-bolt
and I was using the good old feel method based on how hard it was to remove. I felt the new bolts were some cheap peace of mind and I have had no signs of movement or those 3 bolts coming loose.
Tony
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TP in the Pack (I am a cyclist)
1968 Manx N.O.S. w/ Barrett Chassis
1960 Single Cab 1914 w/ 40 DLRA's
1990 Vanagon DOKA
1972 Super Beetle
1979 Super Beetle Convertible
2011 Porsche Cayenne

[Terry Kay]

I just air ratchet the bolts down--

Bada Boom, Bada Bing.

What the torque specs of the muffler flange & tailpipe bolts?

same--air ratchet specs--
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T.K.

[Butcher]

I agree with Terry on this one. The factory list torque specs for people that have no clue how to tighten a bolt. Sure there are important places where the fasteners have to be exact, but with a little common sense, you do not need a torque wrench.

BMW has a torque spec for coolant hose clamps back in the day. I never understood why until a few years under my belt at a mechanic. There is not much common sense out there in and out of the shop. That is why they have a torque spec. As an ex shop foreman, you cannot just tell someone to tighten it, disaster does result.

[Terry Kay]

"Da Feel" of it.

Tough to explain, but when I see folks looking for a torque spec on oil drain plugs, I wonder sometimes.

If it isn't done every day by an individual, maybe I can see troubles brewing.
This kinda stuff , "tight" will usually do, I can understand (maybe) that tight can have all kinds of variables.
This is where the common sense kicks in.

How bout the torque spec on a spark plug?

See what I'm saying?
There are limits to craziness.
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T.K.

[IdahoDoug]

Wait a second. Now the thread has turned back on itself as if torque specs don't matter? Sure, everyday things like a battery post, or hinges. But are you guys actually saying you pay little or no mind to torque specs while building an engine?

If that's so, any Samba folks who are reading this as a neophyte - please ignore that advice. Get a Bentley. Use the torque specs. Question specs you don't agree with here on Samba. Use your own calibrated arm only on exhaust clamps and low importance/low value parts. This forum is here to provide mutual help and encouraging others to ignore factory torque specs on a 30 year old aluminum engined vehicle is categorically bad advice.

On the torque converter bolts (which I'm not asking about in this thread), I noticed that they are the same as the bolts that hold the exhaust manifold for the 1&3 cylinders onto the bracket on the bottom of the engine. So, everyone's got a spare or two already.
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1993 Toyota LandCruiser, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[Terry Kay]

I do not know how anything has turned over onto anything.

Common sense is common sense.

You have professed mechanical skills here often.

You should be aware that the door & bumper bolts don't require torque specs, just as the bell housing doesn't for a seasoned mechanic such as yourself.

Honestly, I was surprised to see your original post.
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T.K.

[?Waldo?]

Regardless of how much experience one has or 'feel' one has developed, it is true common sense to use a torque wrench on any fastener where a torque specification is provided.
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I am a high-functioning autistic into VW diesels and Vanagons along with other things that are unrelated to this site.

[RicoS]

[IdahoDoug]

Hmm. Not so much. First off, it's to me a very odd request from a supervisor in an engineering-driven company to put someone on a task of measuring and calculating fastener torque with a finishing goal to the project of recommending final torque. This is an extremely mature and well documented process and there are published engineering standards for fasteners of all shapes and sizes. And the equipment of a size and cost they're working on at a place like that - it definitely came with a manual, and torque settings for the machine. No question. To think someone assigned that task in a high risk environment of power generation and public utility operation is nearly unthinkable.

Secondly, your summary comment that "measuring bolt stretch is the way to go so maybe feel ain't so bad" has absolutely no basis in fact. "Feel" is not like "bolt stretch". Like saying the bolt had paint on it so a paintbrush is the right tool to tighten it. Absolutely no factual connection or assertion and your buddy said as much by saying there was a 35% variation WITH INSTRUMENTS.

This is like arguing gravity. If you use fasteners with stated torque settings, use the torque settings.

Doug
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1993 Toyota LandCruiser, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[?Waldo?]

[RicoS]

[dobryan]

My take is that it does not hurt to know what the recommended torque value is and if you can use a torque wrench on it then so much the better. Just knowing what the torque is supposed to be helps me calibrate my 'feel' for how tight to fasten something. YMMV.
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Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2010 Subaru EJ25 (Vanaru) and Peloquin TBD

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