How to build and use a Libby Bong?

[flameisley]

I've done some research but haven't been able to find detailed instructions on how to build one.

[flomulgator]

2 ft. of 2" PVC pipe
1 rubber reducing coupling from plumbing aisle. that reduces from 2" to.....1" i believe. Measure the expansion tank opening.
2 hose clamps if the coupling doesn't already come with them.
4 feet of clear vinyl tubing, 3/8"
A velcro strap.

Attach rubber coupler to PVC. A few inches above the top of the rubber drill a hole that is the same diameter or slightly smaller than the vinyl tubing. Squeeze and pull the tubing through the hole until it extends about an inch below the bottom of the rubber coupling. Seal the tubing if necessary. Velcro strap the remaining tubing to the opposite end of the PVC.

There ya go.
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She's built like a steakhouse, but she handles like a bistro!

[2wdvanagon]

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

Here's the link to the original post. It has always worked great for me. Thank you Andrew Libby.

[n2wheelies]

my video shows the use and parts...


Link


if that interests you!
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'87 Vanagon Weekender 'ELNINYO'


past vw's...
'09 Jetta Sportwagen 'Pearl'
'60 Deluxe Beetle
'09 EOS 'petal'
'78 scirocco
'66 T2 panel dead tour vehicle, 'mr bus'
'67 13 window
'95 eurocamper 'charlie' (phish tour vehicle)
'03 Mk4 TDI 'steve'
'04 W8 Phaeton 'david'

[brodyjdavis]

I just built one last week by scrubbing through some old posts here, worked pretty well.

Ill make a list of the items I picked up to make mine:
Pipe

Coupling

Clear Tubing

Barbed Coupler

Making it was pretty simple;
push the 24" pipe into the PVC coupler and mark a spot just above the coupler to drill a 3/8" hole for the barbed coupler, which can be secured with a small amount of silicone. You could probably just skip the metal coupler altogether and feed the hose straight through the pipe, if you don't feel like being a fancy man. I'd still hit it with some silicone sealant to reduce the potential for leaks either way though.

You don't have to be too exact with the clear hose, just make sure to cut the hose that goes from inside the pipe to the coolant tank long enough that it reaches into the fluid a few inches. The other length of hose just needs to be at least long enough to reach past the top of the main tube, so at least 24" in this case. I used more length just to help reach the container on the ground more easily when doing the siphoning at the end.

After that I simply drilled two screws into the other end of the main pipe and attached some cord/string/yarn, just something to help support it when its full of fluid and tied the other end of the string to the lift struts of the read hatch. I screwed in two screws right next to each other so that I could push the clear tubing between them and they would hold it in place without need for a rubber band or anything like that. the pressure from the screws doesn't pinch the tube closed but is enough to keep the clear tubing vertical and in place while working.

that's about it for assembly.
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1984 Westy | www.brodyjdavis.com

[?Waldo?]

[Sodo]

This is what the Libby Bong does, except it does it on level ground, like in the garage, etc. Its a stand-pipe that raises the height of the coolant in the reservoir higher than the radiator bleeder. The added pressure assists ejecting trapped air out of the radiator bleeder. Libby Bong works 'cold', which is handy.

Once the system is bled to a basic level, it self-bleeds itself while you're driving. So basically that's ALL you really need to do, just get it bled and filled to the point where the coolant circulates and carries the bubbles out to the reservoir, where it can eject the air (to the coolant overflow tank behind the license plate).

Then watching the level in the overflow tank (behind the license plate) is all you need to do. The Libby bong is perfect for this.

When the cooling system is "hot' and the system is pressurized, it's useful to park the van nose UP for a few minutes then (carefully) release more (initial) air bubbles from the radiator bleeder up high. Just once speeds up the self-bleeding process. The coolant thank behind the license plate will arrive at a consistent level sooner.

When hot, the thermostat is open and the entire system flushes readily at engine idle. This Libby bong process is a quick way to get MOST of the air out of a newly filled cooling system, so it can then self-bleed while you're driving.
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'90 Westy EJ25, NEW oil rings (!) 2Peloquins, 3knobs, SyncroShop pressure-oiled pinion-bearing & GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox.
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered original gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[dobryan]

It really works great, even on a subie.

Here is my chad version. I put a plastic bin under it to catch the coolant in the tube when I remove it, not as elegant as the bong water release.

The hose is just a spare front coolant hose.
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Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2010 Subaru EJ25 (Vanaru) and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[ohlone]

[crazyvwvanman]

When ready to remove the tool, the clear tubing lets you drain most of the remaining coolant without spilling as much of what is left inside the tool.

It also helps you see how much coolant is inside the bong at any time.

Mark

[ohlone]

[wesitarz]

Anybody do a no-spill funnel with a longer stem +/- rear end on ramps?

[Sodo]

If you raise the rear half-a-wheel any funnel (or no funnel) works.
_________________


'90 Westy EJ25, NEW oil rings (!) 2Peloquins, 3knobs, SyncroShop pressure-oiled pinion-bearing & GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox.
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered original gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[dhaavers]

[dubbified]

I got myself the air compressor tool that bleeds coolant, and damn.. no libby needed. It pulled all air out. it was pretty cool, I've made a few libby bongs..

$20 on amazon. Comes in a pretty box to store it when you dont use it.

I was a skeptic at first but.. after seeing what this tool did, it was incredible.

The concept is using air via venturi, it sucks the air out, forms a vacuum on the system, and you close that switch, toggle open the "high" pressure side of the intake, which is atmospheric pressure, and it sucks the coolant in.. I think it was much faster, and reliable than the bong. No waste, either.

No air. Nowhere in the system at all.

I know this, as first warm up, opening the bleeder on the radiator.. immediately coolant came rushing out..

Also, there are a ton of crannies inside the block, which the bong wont remove the air, until its expanded due to warmth, and travels in the system, then you have to rebleed..

Not with this tool. Its universal, too.

[TornadoVan]

I recently replaced the plastic coolant junction block on my 1990 GL that had a slow leak (the one located at the aft end of the main transfer tubes). I used a stock-style junction from GoWesty.

I had found the thread about the Libby Bong and found a few posts describing an alternative method that used stuff I actually had on hand in my garage. I was amazed at how well it worked. I did the replacement in my garage, on flat ground. Obviously, I had to raise the vehicle on the starboard side to give myself enough room to actually disconnect hoses and replace the junction block, but the rest of the job (draining, flushing and refilling) was done with the van level on the floor.

After removing the bleed plug on the top starboard side of the radiator (after removing the grill) I simply sucked the coolant out of the pressure reservoir with a wet/dry shopvac. No need for adapters, just place the shopvac's hose over the cap hole and turned on the vac. It quite quickly sucked 3 1/2 gallons of coolant out. It didn't spill a drop.

When I jacked up the rig to replace the junction, I expected the last gallon to pour out once I removed the main transfer hose from the junction, but, to my surprise, not a SINGLE drop came out. Zero mess. Replaced the junction, and dropped the rig back to the floor. I turned the dashboard heater controls to "Full Hot".

I then refilled the system with tap water using a garden-style pressure sprayer by doing the following. On the empty system, replace the pressure cap on the reservoir and remove the hose from the overflow bottle, leaving the hose attached to the pressure cap. As it turns out, the hose was exactly the correct diameter to insert the plastic spray wand from the sprayer into the hose (I cut off the spray head from the wand). I didn't even need a clamp. Fill the sprayer with water and pump it up. Pull the trigger and let the water flow into the system until water comes out the bleed hole. Put the bleed plug back in. I ran the engine until the cooling fan came on, then drained the system again with the shopvac. After letting the engine cool some, I refilled with 60/40 coolant mix (NEVER put cold coolant in a hot engine!). I used 60/40 because I knew I had approx. a gallon of water trapped in the system's low spots. Ran the engine again until the fan came on. Topped off the pressure reservoir with a few ounces of straight coolant, then set the overflow bottle to the proper marked level. DONE.

After running the engine for 4/5 cooling fan cycles, I tested the coolant with a refractometer and was pleasantly surprised to discover it was an almost perfect 50/50 mix. I was honestly expecting to have to pull some coolant out of the system to adjust the mixture, but it was spot on.

What impressed me with this method was the fact that I could do it on level ground, and made NO mess. I was able to wipe up with a single rag the few drops that hit the floor after coming out the bleeder. The other thing that surprised me was the fact that I didn't have to do ANY "burping" procedure, and the coolant level never even dropped after a few weeks of driving. No sudden level drop when the T-Stat opened, no air trapped in heater core, nothing. NONE of the usual issues associated with this type of service usually encountered on most vehicles. Clean up was easy as all I had to do was transfer waste coolant/water from the shopvac to old coolant bottles for easy disposal at the local toxic waste facility.

Knowing how extensive the cooling system is on this vehicle is, I was expecting issues. I was very pleased with how easy and clean this method was.

Many Kudos and Thanks to the people that suggested this method in the Libby Bong thread. I haven't tried the Libby Bong method, so I don't know how well it works, but after trying this method, I don't think I will do it any other way!

[jimf909]

[kamzcab86]

[jimf909]

Mine seems to burp at higher rpm’s and then all out puke when the revs drop.

Maybe it’s the smaller aluminum tank on the Bostig (on the right below) that’s vexing me. Anyway, the no spill funnel has helped immensely by containing the burps.

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- Jim