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Noise in fan housing
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Paul Wilson
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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2006 6:04 pm    Post subject: Noise in fan housing Reply with quote

I did the search and did find some help. My 66 Square is a daily driver, pure stock and unmolested. The car runs great ! Juet got off the freeway about two blocks from home. Speed about 20 mph. All of a sudden there is this loud rattling noise. Sounded like a lug bolt in a hub cap. I nursed it home. I still have the noise while parked, with engine running. No noise at idle speed. Rev it up a little and its back. It is not steady. I suspect a bolt has backed out, and is flying around inside. Sure hate to pull the engine, as I never have pulled a Type 3.
Paul
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2006 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have one of the bolts that holds the fan housing to the engine has come loose.
You will have to pull the fan and fan housing to get to it. Use a puller to get the fan off the end of the crank, otherwise you will bend it.
The bolt that holds the fans onto the end of the crank is a 30mm.
Good luck.
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Paul Wilson
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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2006 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, Russ. I have plans to rebuild and up grade to a larger motor and dual 36 Dells. I just didn't want to do it now, as the engine still runs strong. The tranny needs attention. I can't let that go on forever .
Damn ! It was a good week untill this.
Paul
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tristessa
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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2006 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The engine doesn't have to come out, be glad for that. But you are going to have to take off the bellows, the coil & bracket, the generator (disconnect the battery first), the "tin" shroud, the belt, the outer fan/pulley, the U-shaped heater elbows, the "handle" for the rear mount over near the dipstick, and the muffler. Shocked

Remove all the bolts holding the fanshroud together. Double-check to make sure you got them all, there's a couple under the "arms" next to the locating dowels that like to hide if you don't know they're there. Splitting the fanshroud takes encouragement -- over time the halves can get pretty well stuck together. The *only* place you want to put screwdrivers to pry with are the wide bosses where the dowels are, anyplace else and you could crack the shroud if you're not careful .. and 6V shrouds don't grow on trees.

Check to make sure the threaded holes in the case aren't stripped. If they are, you might need to get some longer bolts, drill & tap the holes deeper (6mmx1.00pitch tap), or both. Either use loctite on the bolts when putting it back together, fill the cavities in the shroud with silicone after putting the bolts in, or both. You don't want to have to do this again in six months, trust me. Then put everything back together.

Fun times. I've dealt with this on more than a few occasions, but only once on *my* car. Laughing
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67stang302
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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2006 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I sure hope a bolt just backed out. My friends car did this same thing turned out the fan went out. hope this isn't the case for you. I had a hard time finding a fan for him and now I have three Very Happy
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2bugtony
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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2006 4:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the same thing happen about a month ago. There's three bolts that hold the fan houseing on one of them have fell out and is getting into the fan. It make a lot of noise. I didn't have to take the engin out to fix it but I did have to take the headers off.
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Paul Wilson
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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2006 5:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice. I will tackle it this weekend.
Paul
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2006 7:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tristessa wrote:
The engine doesn't have to come out, be glad for that. But you are going to have to take off the bellows, the coil & bracket, the generator (disconnect the battery first), the "tin" shroud, the belt, the outer fan/pulley, the U-shaped heater elbows, the "handle" for the rear mount over near the dipstick, and the muffler. Shocked

Remove all the bolts holding the fanshroud together. Double-check to make sure you got them all, there's a couple under the "arms" next to the locating dowels that like to hide if you don't know they're there. Splitting the fanshroud takes encouragement -- over time the halves can get pretty well stuck together. The *only* place you want to put screwdrivers to pry with are the wide bosses where the dowels are, anyplace else and you could crack the shroud if you're not careful .. and 6V shrouds don't grow on trees.

Check to make sure the threaded holes in the case aren't stripped. If they are, you might need to get some longer bolts, drill & tap the holes deeper (6mmx1.00pitch tap), or both. Either use loctite on the bolts when putting it back together, fill the cavities in the shroud with silicone after putting the bolts in, or both. You don't want to have to do this again in six months, trust me. Then put everything back together.

Fun times. I've dealt with this on more than a few occasions, but only once on *my* car. Laughing


Yeah, I had this happen to me last year, but I found it was easier to pull the engine out of the car (less cuts and scrapes on me, plus it gave me more room to manuver / see). It only adds about an hour to the job, but might save you some of that time being able to get to stuff. All the above info still applies though (good job tristessa Cool ). I think the big problem with these coming loose is due to the fact that the 3 screws are out of sight, out of mind (until they come loose), and a lack of loctite by the engine assembler. Wink Just remember, that 30mm bolt needs to be torqued up to 93 ftlbs when you put it back together, or it'll come loose and make a horrendus(sp?) noise. I use my flywheel lock for do it. Wink
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tristessa
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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2006 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
I found it was easier to pull the engine out of the car
...
All the above info still applies though (good job tristessa Cool ).

You don't *have* to pull the engine to get to those bolts, just like you don't *have* to pull the engine to take the heads off (at least not on IRS cars). Which is handy if you're working someplace where pulling the engine is out of the question, like the side of the road. Laughing
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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2006 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

2bugtony wrote:
I had the same thing happen about a month ago. There's three bolts that hold the fan houseing on one of them have fell out and is getting into the fan. It make a lot of noise. I didn't have to take the engin out to fix it but I did have to take the headers off.

No, there are 4 bolts that hold the fan housing to the engine case.
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Paul Wilson
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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2006 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, 4 hours later, both hands are bleeding and I still don't have the muffler off ! I don't think it has ever been off. I had to use a hammer and chisel to remove the donut gaskets and have soaked the joints with WD 40, still won't budge. I have given up for the night. I will try again in the morning. Maby I'll be in a better mood.
Paul
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2006 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OHHH Crap, You do not have to pull the muffler to get the fan housing off. Sad
It will clear the muffler when pulling it.
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Paul Wilson
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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2006 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I don't know if I should laugh or cry. I wasted a lot of blood, sweat and tears. At least I can stop focusing on the muffler. That's a good thing.
Paul
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tristessa
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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2006 5:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Russ Wolfe wrote:
OHHH Crap, You do not have to pull the muffler to get the fan housing off. Sad
It will clear the muffler when pulling it.

Really? Embarassed I've always had to pull stock mufflers to have enough room to get at some of the bolts.
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Tram
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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2006 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was just gonna say... I've never had to pull the muff to get the housing off, either. Confused
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Paul Wilson
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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2006 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to try to go forward without removing the muffler. You are right there would be more room but this muffler just don't want to let go.
Paul
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Paul Wilson
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PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2006 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, the muffler did have to come off after all. The sheet metal duct would not clear the pulley otherwise. After pulling the fan off, I found the loose bolt . Someone had done this repair before using a sheet metal screw ! Should I try to tap the thread deeper or go to the next size larger thread ? If I go to the next size, I will have to make the counterbore larger also. Hopefully I can do this without removing the front housing.
Paul
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2006 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The stock thread is 6mm x 1.00. If that doesnt work, you might step up to and 7mm or 8mm. Use an allen head bolt, and you won't have problems with the size of the pocket. You might also consider just using a 1/4" x 20 bolt there too. that is slightly larger than a 6mm.
And for a point of info to anyone else, if you take the center bolt and fan loose first, you do not have to pull the muffler. Take the fan and the tin off together.
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Air_Cooled_Nut
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PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2006 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Russ Wolfe wrote:
...
And for a point of info to anyone else, if you take the center bolt and fan loose first, you do not have to pull the muffler. Take the fan and the tin off together.

Good to know, otherwise it never did make sense.
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Paul Wilson
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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2006 5:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

First of all, I would like to thank all posters for their valuable help on this problem. Next question. How important is the plastic nose cone that fits on the pulley ? My car does not have one ?
Paul
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