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Ignition and carbs first time
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air.cooled
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Joined: April 19, 2007
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2025 3:50 am    Post subject: Ignition and carbs first time Reply with quote

Hello,
We are to brothers from Belgium, and we are rebuilding a 1600 engine (the previous broke down on our last trip).
I will introduce us later, but we are in a bit a hurry, we want to go on another trip in 6weeks, and have some trouble getting it running smooth. Thanks in advance for some advice!

Now, this is the state we are in:
- dual carb 32-34 PDSIT-2&3 , we have taken them apart, ultrasoon cleaned it and everything seems to be correct. We have it on basic setting, iddle screw (1) 2.5 turns out and the otherone until the gashandle hits, then 1,5 turns more in.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The choke bar was loose to, but we don’t know how to set this one good yet:

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We have a movie how to adjusts the carbs. But it first has to run a bit good first.

The distributor is a 0 231 167 014. According the manual it should be set at 0 degrees.

If we run the engine (with the vacuum loose and closed side carb) we can not turn the distributor to 0*. It doenst run good and plofs in the carbu.

Is there something what we need to adjust first?

Hope to get back in to this world much more, missed working on aircooled vehicles! And sorry if the english isnt that good..
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biffidum
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Joined: October 14, 2023
Posts: 72
Location: ON, CAN
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2025 11:14 am    Post subject: Re: Ignition and carbs first time Reply with quote

Have you adjusted your valves?
Distributor 180 degrees out?
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luka32
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Joined: September 29, 2013
Posts: 16
Location: Slovenia
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2025 11:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Ignition and carbs first time Reply with quote

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/t3dualcarbtuning/index.php

http://home.clara.net/hallvw/type3ign.htm

Maybe your vacuum hose should be on?
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air.cooled
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2025 12:39 am    Post subject: Re: Ignition and carbs first time Reply with quote

Thanks for the info, the links really helped!
Now the engine runs much better Smile we only have some airleak because of a wrong inlet gasket of the carburator feet, but already replaced it so hopefully the “ploffs” are over.

With the engine running there is another problem.
An oil leak between the alu fan case and engine. Hard to see with the cover so we stripped it again. Now it looks like it is from one of these 3:
- the crankshaft, we made a mistake by not setting the big screw to 13kgm. Maybe that was the problem, but in a manual it also says there needs to be a paper gasket between the pulley and fan. We haven’t seen one with dissembly it:

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Does annyone has a picture or more info of it?

- The other possible leak is that there wasnt a gasget between the oilpump cover and plate. Also no sealing. So the chances are big it is comming from there.

- The 3th is the oil galley bolt. Can we just pull it out, put loctite on it and screw it back in? It is marked with a little stamp.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Or better leave that bolt as it is Rolling Eyes

There is only a leak when the engine is running, it drips like every sec. So I don’t think it is the big bolt.

Thanks again in advance!
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Mike Fisher
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Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 18052
Location: Eugene, OR
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2025 4:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Ignition and carbs first time Reply with quote

I would use Teflon Tape on the leaky bolt?
I set my timing by 'how well it runs/revs' and don't try to match any Factory recommendation.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2025 12:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Ignition and carbs first time Reply with quote

air.cooled wrote:
Thanks for the info, the links really helped!
Now the engine runs much better Smile we only have some airleak because of a wrong inlet gasket of the carburator feet, but already replaced it so hopefully the “ploffs” are over.

With the engine running there is another problem.
An oil leak between the alu fan case and engine. Hard to see with the cover so we stripped it again. Now it looks like it is from one of these 3:
- the crankshaft, we made a mistake by not setting the big screw to 13kgm. Maybe that was the problem, but in a manual it also says there needs to be a paper gasket between the pulley and fan. We haven’t seen one with dissembly it:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thanks again in advance!


That paper gasket is included in most of the "full" gasket kits. Normally that gasket goes in between the two fans. I don't know if 13 kgm equals 217 ft lbs or not, but the 217 ft lbs is what that crank bolt needs to be torqued to, otherwise the engine WILL vibrate it loose and damage BOTH fans. BTDT a couple of times before I learned that one. Now I install a flywheel lock, and then torque that bolt up tight to 217 ft lbs. Note: You can't tighten it up to 217 ft lbs with the engine in the car in either 1st or reverse gear. I've tried it, and it doesn't work.

If you're getting oil leaking out of the gap between the big fan and the case, you've probably got excess blow by causing the oil to come out there. Yes, I've ran into that before, and tore the engine back down and reset the rings on the pistons. I hope this helps.
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