1962 VW Bosch Generator . How do I polarize correctly 6 volt

[KENNYSILVER]

I have a 1962 6 volt . I want to Polarize the generator . There were a bunch of 12 volt you tube videos and they look pretty simple . My generator has the regulator on top the generator . Not under the rear seat , like the newer Vws .
My wiring has a wire from the top brush going to the F on the the regulator . I made a new wire in green there . Then two wires on the right that go to D+ on the reg . I think that is correct . The black the wire is coming up from the lower brush . And the other D+ wire comes from the internal winding in generator . The wiring looks poor inside . But I did get a pretty good charge for the 6 volt . The generator was out of the car for a couple months . I don't see any info on how to make sure polarity is correct . Thanks - John

[MMW]

•Remove the fan belt.
•Connect a jumper wire from DF to ground.
•Connect a wire from the battery + terminal to D+ on the generator.
•The generator shaft should start to spin.
•Don't run this way for more than a few seconds to avoid overheating.
•If the generator did not spin, the generator is likely defective.
•The generator will now be properly polarized.
•If it did, put the belt back on and re-test for generator voltage with DF grounded. If the output voltage is still low, the generator is defective.
_________________
Mic
1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle

[Scorcho]

If i have positive ground in my bus instead of negative ground do i connect the jumper wire from DF to POSITIVE, which in my case would be ground?

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

[dogtowner]

I noticed how you had your generator wired and wanted to check and see if it worked like that. I have the same setup on by 1957 Bug and can't seem to get it to work. Both the generator and regulator are new and when I have the wire that went to the top brush screwed to the F terminal and the other two wires screwed to the 61 terminal it doesn't charge and I can't even polarize the system.

[VWFIXER]

[mukluk]

[dogtowner]

Thanks for the reply Mukluk, I will go out and try your advice. Upon further inspection, the wire described as the other brush holder wire was indeed another field wire. When I started this project all the wires had been cut at the terminals by the previous owner in order to get the small screws off with a vice grips. Thus I was in the dark on the correct wiring.

[dogtowner]

I just tried it the way Mukruk pointed out but it still would't polarize. When I touched the wire from the battery to the regulator at the terminal where both hot wires come in it did nothing however when I was removing the wire I grazed the shroud and it sparked. When I acquired this car, it was positive ground and I changed it to negative ground. I reversed all the battery wires. The generator red light was on either way. This thing is getting frustrating!

[mukluk]

When attempting to polarise the generator, did you first install a temporary jumper wire from the F terminal field wire over to the body of the generator? If yes, have you verified the generator body has continuity to ground? Also, just to verify, have you corrected the wiring in the generator so that you no longer have a field wire running to the bottom brush holder?

Generator output testing and polarising procedures: http://www.speedyjim.net/htm/gen.htm
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[herbie1200]

[dogtowner]

Update" Found the right combination and polarized the generator. All fixed.

[wdfifteen]

I'm having trouble with my charging system too. The car is a 1956 Porsche converted to 12 volts. The generator is off a 1967 Porsche 912.
I drove the car for years and never had a problem with the charging system until I rebuilt the engine this spring. When I first started it up, the generator light was on, but went out after I drove about 5 miles. The car sat for about 2 weeks, and the next time I started it the light was on and won't go out. I cleaned all the connections, took the belt off, and did the motor test. It passed, I think.
All the how to-sites say the generator should spin if you ground the field and apply voltage to the + terminal. What to they mean by "spin?" My generator turned, but it didn't spin up like an electric motor. I turned over at a steady, but slow speed. Also, I noticed that the charge light gets dim but does not go completely out as the engine speed gets up over 2000 rpm. What would that indicate?
Thanks for any help.

[mukluk]

Turning at a steady low rpm is what you're looking for when you polarise it.

Your next step should be to check the voltage across the battery terminals while the engine is revved to see if the generator is charging. If it is charging properly but the warning lamp glows, then you'll need to troubleshoot the warning lamp circuit. If it isn't charging or just barely charging, then you'll need to look for the brushes not making good contact, a worn or dirty commutator, poor wire connections in the charging system, or a faulty voltage regulator.
_________________
1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[wdfifteen]

Thanks Mukluk
How long are the brushes when they are new? Mine are about .6 inches now, which seems pretty worn. The other tests will have to wait until I have a helper. There is some green corrosion on the commutator, but not on the area that the brushes sweep. I have some contact cleaner I could spray on the commutator and brushes. I don't suppose it would hurt.

[mukluk]

I don't recall ever seeing a printed length spec for the brushes, typically you just make sure when properly installed the brushes don't sit below flush with the end of the brush holders.

A completely worn out brush looks like the one below.

One that's wearing below flush will still work but should be replaced soon.

A new brush sits fairly proud of the holder.

_________________
1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[wdfifteen]

Thank you so much Mukluk. Good info. My brushes are barely proud of the holders, so should be replaced. I want to make sure there isn't another problem before I start ordering parts.

I checked the battery voltage. It is 12.09 static and drops to 11.9 when the engine is running.

I pulled the cover off of the voltage regulator, hoping to find something obvious.
Here is a picture of the VR. Noting burnt or corroded. The right hand coil pulls down and closes a connection (to the battery) when the engine is running. With the engine off I can manually close the contacts and they don't open. When the contacts close the idiot light comes on. Had to disconnect the battery to get them to open.

The left hand points never move. Does this information tell you anything useful?

[Stocknazi]

[EVfun]

[Stocknazi]