Seat upholstery -How To - 4 Parts

[Ossipon]

This thread is for those who want to cover and replace their Type 3 seats. This will be divided into four parts. 1. Front seat upholstery removal, 2. Front seat upholstery install. 3. Back seat upholstery removal and 4. Back seat upholstery install.

This was done on my 1964 Notch. I know I will likely leave some steps out. Sorry. But I am trying to be complete as possible without writing a book. And low back seats are obviously different in many ways from high back fronts.
This is what the driver seat looked like when I started. Not great, but ready to be restored.

Upholstery removal. I had two layers. Original and the OO covered the original with OK seat covers. I decided to strip it down. Repair the seat frames and install TMI two tone covers. I considered doing OG, but knew I was not looking for BAT or HotVW show quality. I just want to be happy with my work.

I assume the reader knows how to remove the seats. These were my tools for the effort. Nothing fancy except for the tool I always said VW made specifically for me. It is the result of having a plastic screwdriver handle right next to a Type 1 rear seat heater vent outlet for four hours. I took it and turned it into my all-purpose pry and snap-ring tool.

Taking the seat I flipped it upside down and removed the many hog rings used to clamp the newer seat cover. I used my special tool and also the two screwdriver wedge method. I did now want to damage the original or afterward seat covers too much.

Once I had the hog rings removed, I started on the seat base. I thought that all I had to do was bend the seat base tabs. But, no the newer seat covers were also glued to the seat frame. Gentle prying ensued.

Seat was off. Now just pull the seat cover off back to front. This was amazingly easy on both seats.

Next was the original vinyl base. I am being gentle as I am giving old covers away. So turn it upside down and bend the many triangle prongs that hold the original material in place. Use pliers or needlenose to pull the vinyl off the prongs.

Once it is off repeat the process back to front removing the vinyl base. The original uses a wire loop to hold the material by the prongs. I will be using the provided string in its place.

This is what my driver seat base now looks like. There are some dents and depressions in the fiber and felt. And on the driver side, the springs are weak.
I will trade the passenger seat base out and use it on the driver side. I will also strengthen and repair the driver side base in the next section.

On to the seat back. I removed all the hog rings earlier, so the seat cover just slid off easily exposing the original upholstery back.

The bottom of the back is important to understand how it attaches. There are three critical pieces to keep for the installation, Two rods and the seat base roll. The first long rod should be visible. Twist and work it out from the back. You may need to pull it away from the seat bar roll prong to get it loose. It will be somewhat oxidized and twisting with the pliers to remove it.

Next in the center is a prong on the hidden seat bar roll. Gently straighten it and loosen the vinyl back piece free.

Unroll the seat bar roll and straighten all the prongs as you remove the bar. NOTE: There are two flat slots on the bar, Those mount to the seat back spring edge. See the metal edge near the top.

Once the bar is removed, the original seat back can be gently pulled straight off. Now you can inspect the seat back springs and cushion.

Mine have lots of use issues on the driver’s side. I will have to build up and redo support prior to seat cover install.
That’s it. Now it is time to repair and paint the seat frame. That will be in my next message on this thread.
As a preview, this is the finished seat base for the driver’s side.

_________________
Ossipon
--Two truths in life: Volkswagens Rust and everything will die at some point --

VWs in my life:
Air
Type 1 - 59, 62, 63, 71 Super 68 KGhia/ Type 2 - 59 Single Cab / Type 3 - 64 Notch
Water
GTI 83, Jetta 81, 85, 87, 91 TDI, 98 TDI, 09 / New Beetle 99 / SportWagen 05, 13 / Tiguan 18 / T3 92 /Taos 24... And don't about me and my experiences with my Dasher and Quantum

[Multi69s]

Great write up. Keep them coming
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69 road Bug 2110
73 Squareback - 2L, T4, Automatic W/ AC
Gone, but many fond memories 69 Baja Bug 2010 - 5 Rib Bus Transaxle
Gone but not forgotten 72 Baja Bug 2010
My builds
T4 into Squareback http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=458944&highlight=
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AC in Squareback https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...highlight=

[ibjack]

Ossipon, that seat bar roll as you call it, should be welded on to the seat frame. The are almost always broken free. Someone is lucky to be getting those covers
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'68 Lotus White T34 automatic sunroof
'64 Manila Yellow T34
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[Ossipon]

[W1K1]

[Bobnotch]

Just a heads up on the rear seat back upright portion, the lip you have to tuck in that holds the material in place is a little short compared to the German stuff you're removing. It will work, but it takes a lot of cuss words and holding your tongue just right, or it'll slip out and you have to do it all over again. BTDT on 2 Notchbacks and 2 Fastbacks, since they share the same design.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[Ossipon]

So with the base off, I completed the following tasks. I pounded the back of the driver seat base where the idjut PO did not know how to remove the seat and dented the base thoroughly. I also cleaned and painted each base. While I used the recommended Anthracite rattle can, it appears brighter than expected. It almost looks like a dull steel gloss more than Anthracite. I am not going to complain. It is a low visibility location and I am living with the less dented version. And I am not looking for precise color matching.
This is before and after of the seat frame corner base.

In the same breath, I decided to go with an all vinyl TMI two tone Upholstery rather than an OG style. Honestly I was driven by cost and not bound by OEM style upholstery matching. I wanted it to look good, but not break by wallet
I am also going to say. Some of you may have issue with my methodology. My response is that it works, and is functional. So, off to the install of a front seat.
The driver front seat was a bit weak in the springs, the fiber base was dipped and uneven. I decided to show what I did on that seat, rather than the passenger seat. The passenger seat was in great shape and I did not do anything special in restoration.

Before starting, I made sure the prongs were straight and not too much a downward angle. I did not want to bend them too much. But I wanted to get a good piercing too.

I used 3M 77 spray adhesive and the tools below, nothing special.

I started on the front seat base. I decided to give the seat base a bit more side lift/support and also fill the dips to even it out. Using a helter skelter lay down of foam provided fill. There are other ways of doing this, but this works.

I then put a cover layer of 1/2inch foam to smooth the helter skelter pieces laid down. Apply adhesive to the foam and base to give them a good grip. And slip on the upholstery front to back.

Once I had it even all the way around I started on the side and pushed prongs on. This task is not difficult at first, but you need to be sure you punch through the double sewn part, but above where the inside string is.

I work around the front. Once I have done about four or five prongs, I then pinch and anchor the prongs down. Not too tight yet, to allow the string to move later.

Keep working on either side of the seat, I alternate back and forth on each side once I got the front done. It is the hardest when you get to the back. Pull evenly, puncture, repeat, then crimp prong. When you are on the back edge you may need to grip the vinyl with pliers just enough to pull it over the area you want to puncture.

Once you have it done all the way around, use the pliers to pull each string side taut. You may need to do this a couple of times string side and work the gathers around to the back.

Once You have pulled string pieces taut enough, create a knot to hold the string in place and tie the excess to the springs.
I also had some seat springs which were weak. I use multiple blocks of styrofoam inserted in the weak coil spring areas to give more firmness.

Now for the back. The driver's back was weak and the fibers sweat stained. I knew the back would need increased support. I used cut carpet pieced between the fiber and S springs along the middle to give more firmness. I also added a 1/2 layer of foam to increase the cush just a bit. I doubt I will be driving this from Kansas City to California, but want comfort enough for driving.

Something I did which may not sound important, but is for me. I used a bungee cord on the front of the base to hold it down as I worked on the seat back. It moves, but will not tip over which was important to me.

Once the back support was inserted into the front top and the foam glued to the front of the fiber, I was ready to slide it on. The TMI folks recommended using plastic sheets or bags. I used two grocery bags taped together and slid over the corners. I then taped the front fiber to the back fiber pieces on the sides. Then slid it on. It went on really well.

Insert the two rods into the slots on the upholstery. The longer one goes on the back, while the shorter goes on the front. Be sure you have removed dirt and oxidation as they are a pain to slide in any event

PULL down the upholstery so it is tight and stretched at the top of the seat. This is also important on the side

Now comes the hard part. I made sure the seat springs back were fixed in the now anchored bottom seat rail slots. There are four prongs on the seat rail. The task sounds much simpler than it is. I do not have a camera mount so could not take pictures as I did this. It is:
1. Stretch the front piece so that it loops around the bar and attaches to the front center prong, while making sure the two outer prongs and center back prong puncture the upholstery past the inserted bar. The result is you want a smooth bottom of the seat vinyl.
2. Next take the back piece and pull it taut over the projecting center back prong and puncture it above the bar.
This part took me almost as long as it took to do all of the first part of the back. You do not want to puncture it too low, and you only want to puncture it once. And keep the vinyl taut.

Now just put the seat base on the frame, push the tabs through the seat base, bend. And you are done.
Repeat for the other seat.

Next will be pics of the fronts and disassembly of the back Seats
_________________
Ossipon
--Two truths in life: Volkswagens Rust and everything will die at some point --

VWs in my life:
Air
Type 1 - 59, 62, 63, 71 Super 68 KGhia/ Type 2 - 59 Single Cab / Type 3 - 64 Notch
Water
GTI 83, Jetta 81, 85, 87, 91 TDI, 98 TDI, 09 / New Beetle 99 / SportWagen 05, 13 / Tiguan 18 / T3 92 /Taos 24... And don't about me and my experiences with my Dasher and Quantum

[Ossipon]

Let me just say. Taking off the back seat upholstery is a WHOLE lot easier than the front seat. And the final post of putting the back seat upholstery is a MUCH more difficult than the front seats too. I used all the tools in the first two posts with the addition of one more tool in the install. More about that later. So on to the back seats.
These were what I started with.

I was amazed at how good the back seat original upholstery looked. But, it does rot with nearly 60 years. It looked fine until I tried to remove it and then there were some tears at the seams. I tried to be as careful as possible as I am shipping it later.
There are three things to keep in mind with back seat upholstery in my experience. The prongs seem to be bigger and farther apart. The armrest is the trickiest to take apart. And the top back seems to be much more prone to sun rot.

The seat vinyl comes off generally easy until you get to the armrest. That is where I will spend much of this post.

The arm rest is held in place with a rod and a press nut.
The vinyl on the back around the arm rest is held in place by prongs and metal rods. Remove the rod by lifting the press nut off the end. Then knock and pull the rod out. The arm rest slids out.

Remove the delrin washer from the side of the arm rest. Do this under the vinyl to get a good grip without damaging the washer.

This is the removed hardware

Remove the arm rest vinyl by removing the three prongs, and looped sewn bits on the edge.

Once prongs lifted and loops removed, gently pull the vinyl off the prongs. Sliding the arm rest may not be easy. It may be necessary to razor the threads a bit along the edge seam to get enough room. Slide off and you are done.

Remove the seat back vinyl by lifting the prongs and then using pliers and a light tap slide the rod to the top and off. Lift the vinyl off the prongs. Once all the prongs are lifted, the tension wire unwrapped, both upper and lower seat vinyl should come right off.

Next up is the installation. And it is a trial of patience, finger strength, and upholstery warmth.
_________________
Ossipon
--Two truths in life: Volkswagens Rust and everything will die at some point --

VWs in my life:
Air
Type 1 - 59, 62, 63, 71 Super 68 KGhia/ Type 2 - 59 Single Cab / Type 3 - 64 Notch
Water
GTI 83, Jetta 81, 85, 87, 91 TDI, 98 TDI, 09 / New Beetle 99 / SportWagen 05, 13 / Tiguan 18 / T3 92 /Taos 24... And don't about me and my experiences with my Dasher and Quantum

[Ossipon]

Part 4 The back seat upholstery
The install of the back seat upholstery has nearly done me. It is installed, but I am not happy with it. As I walk through, you will discover my frustration points. Bobnotch gave me a heads up, but it is what every one should be prepared. As a reminder, I used TMI, not SewFine. I might not have had this experience with SewFine. But who knows. So let's get started.

I used two additional tools from the fronts. A vise grip weld clamp and a razor blade.

I figured I would start on the arm rest. I basically installed the armrest in reverse of how I took it apart. I used another grocery bag as a slip on. It made it go on easily. Don't forget to install the Delrin plastic washers on the side.

I then placed the end pieces on the prongs in reverse of the original removal. It was quick and easy. I did do a bit of trimming of excess and my wife did a bit of loop stitches to draw every edge up. I thought this was going to be a snap.

First I put the two back pieces in the sun to warm. not a big deal, but I knew it would help with pliability and stretch.
Then came the bottom seat portion of the back. The hardest part on it is the size. I wished I had a gimbal or something to easily flip the ends and over. One critical point which I need to say again is the prongs should be straight and point slightly upward. I had to use the vise grip welding clamp to help pull across the prongs. The size of each piece made pulling a chore without tearing the vinyl.

I worked my way around the seat portion and attached on the prongs. Once finished, I drew up the string. Looks reasonably good

Alrighty then, onwards to the back portion of the back seat.

I wish I could say I saved the best for last. But it seems the issues were waiting for me on this part of the job. IMPORTANT NOTE: Inspect your upholstery when you get it. If you find an error or fabric flaw, it is much harder to have it resolved when you have it 2/3rds on.
Keeping Bobnotch advice in mind I did an initial fit. It seemed a bit short in the armrest, but I figured, it was just me. All the other bits worked out fine. The top is different in how it attaches. There are no prongs, just a plastic bar which should fit under a J slot on the top frame.

The bar does not want to fit under the J bar. You need to make sure the upholstery is relaxed before you fit the bar . I did it sort of in the middle of the install. Then finalized the fit once the arm rest section was done. I dont think that is the best way
I slipped the vinyl on the frame and started on one side, working it on the prongs as I went towards the armrest area.

I figured looking at the way the armrest was put together I would need a bit of slot cuts and such for the rod to fit. There are more prongs around the armrest then either side and bottom. There are also two cross pieces which require additional snipping. You will need to not cut the string and pull the string into the slots and cuts such that it does not pucker.

This is where I found a construction issue. The string was sewn into the seam in two spots on one side. I basically had to remove the seam thread in those areas to free the string. URRGH!

The center section is both complex and also where if you make a mistake, you may not realize it until later like I did. The use of the rods in the center section really help smooth and strengthen the sections.

I finished one side of the center section and then moved to the other outer edge and worked my way to the other side of the center section.

Once I had that done, I slipped the bar again under the top of the back seat. Amazingly it fit. Huzzah. I was ready to install the arm rest., A bit of pucker on the edges, but I can live with that.

Make two holes on either side and slide the rod in. The curve of the backseat fibers makes this a bit of a pain. Once it starts, it is easy until you get to the other side. Then it is a pain to find and fit the rod through the hole.

It was at this step I realized I have an issue. I have an idea on how to fix it, but it is an annoyance. The size of the arm rest pocket is just a bit too small for the arm rest.

I can live with the arm rest down all the time, but would like to be able to put it back into the pocket. I will need to heat the vinyl and stretch it a bit for the fit. It will just take time and patience. That will be posted when I do the install of the seats into Gretchen.
TO Summarize
1. Take your time
2. Vinyl has give, but you have to be careful when it it really warm.
3. Those prongs are sharp. Be sure to pinch all of them down when finished.
4. Replacement Upholstery is not the same as OEM. And it really needs to be down to the fiber and use as little extra foam as possible.
5. INSPECT your product before beginning. I could work around what slowed me, but it could have been worse.
6. You only can puncture with the prongs once or twice. Each time weakens the area.
7. It is not that hard. You can do it.
_________________
Ossipon
--Two truths in life: Volkswagens Rust and everything will die at some point --

VWs in my life:
Air
Type 1 - 59, 62, 63, 71 Super 68 KGhia/ Type 2 - 59 Single Cab / Type 3 - 64 Notch
Water
GTI 83, Jetta 81, 85, 87, 91 TDI, 98 TDI, 09 / New Beetle 99 / SportWagen 05, 13 / Tiguan 18 / T3 92 /Taos 24... And don't about me and my experiences with my Dasher and Quantum

[Bobnotch]

Having the vinyl warmed up would help (tossed in a dryer right before install?), but in my case I was using velour for the seat covers, which means it'll only give so much. That strip across the top of the rear seat is a Royal Pain in the azz, and has been that way since 1990. I've told anyone at TMI who will listen that it needs to be at least a 1/4 inch wider, but they still haven't done anything to fix it.
I wonder if VW uses some sort of wooden buck to get the arm rest opening correct, as everyone of them I've done is tight on the arm rest itself.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[leoasman]

This is the only place I’ve seen info on how to do these armrest back seats, Thank you! Do you mind if I post some pics of the armrest I just took apart and reupholstered? For extra reference.

Leo

[Erik G]

good thread - yeah people should add pics and advice in this thread, maybe it can become a sticky

My advice, if you dont have the original wire to use, coat hanger or other good stiff wire will work. I've seen string used and it just won't work well.

dont be afraid to use hog rings.

Do it in the sun. You need it hot all over and a heat gun just doesnt work as well
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[Ossipon]

[leoasman]

Cool! Thanks. Here are some pics of how the armrest is put together in the back.

[leoasman]

I’m working on the backseat backrest tomorrow and I was rereading your posts. You mentioned that your sequence was maybe not the best. What would you recommend? Im thinking of getting the plastic in first, clamping in place like in the pic below. Then the top of the armrest hole to ensure alignment. Then working around the outside and finish with the necessary cuts/ mounting etc in the cutout.

[Ossipon]

[leoasman]

Sound good! Thank you!

[leoasman]

Thanks for all the tips! It’s definitely not an easy job, but after a lot of cursing and even bleeding (those prongs are sharp!). I got it done! I don’t know if TMI adjusted the pattern for the cutout, but mine is not tight at all. If anything there is too much room!

[Ossipon]

[Erik G]

looks good

I've learned from doing many cars and talking to people much older than me, that remember the cars new... They weren't perfect and seams didn't exactly line up, etc...

I'd be happy with that back seat and armrest
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