| Author |
Message |
Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22439
Location: Kimball, Mi
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 Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2024 1:10 pm Post subject: Re: Auto transmission guru advice please |
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| Buscowboy wrote: |
It has been mentioned that when I install the torque converter it must have a gap of 1/2” from the flex plate. How do I achieve this please, any tips or tricks ?
Thanks |
What you'll find is that when you install the converter it'll go in about 1 full inch (maybe a little more), then you pull it back out to bolt up to the flex plate (this is normal on most automatics from every manufacturer). I normally just wind the converter bolts in by hand, until I have all 3 in place, then remove the last one, and add some blue loctite to it, then install it and torque it to spec. I then repeat this on the other 2 bolts, until ALL 3 are tight with blue loctite on them.
Normally when I'm installing a torque converter (any model) I'll sink it in all the way, making sure the pump drive tangs (domestic models) are engaged. On the 003 AT I'll make sure the pump drive shaft (rod) is in all the way and spin it to make sure it's engaged, then I'll slip the converter on. I'll spin it (the converter) while pushing on the front of the converter to make sure it engages ALL of the splines on the trans including the pump drive shaft (you might need to wiggle the converter to make sure it's engaged). If you're watching it as it goes on, you'll see it move inward on each of the shafts (splines) and drop inward. If you're lucky, you'll still have a "dirt line" from the converter spinning, that you can use as a reference to know you've sunk it far enough in (maybe even go that extra 3/4 to 1 inch inward further). Then bolt up the engine to the trans, then start your converter bolts like I described above. Make sure you add the blue loctite to the bolts, so they don't vibrate out while you're driving the car. Note: the VW factory used something similar too when they first built the car. I hope this helps.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Buscowboy
Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2004
Posts: 403
Location: South Coast, England
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| Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2024 1:26 pm Post subject: Re: Auto transmission guru advice please |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Buscowboy wrote: |
It has been mentioned that when I install the torque converter it must have a gap of 1/2” from the flex plate. How do I achieve this please, any tips or tricks ?
Thanks |
What you'll find is that when you install the converter it'll go in about 1 full inch (maybe a little more), then you pull it back out to bolt up to the flex plate (this is normal on most automatics from every manufacturer). I normally just wind the converter bolts in by hand, until I have all 3 in place, then remove the last one, and add some blue loctite to it, then install it and torque it to spec. I then repeat this on the other 2 bolts, until ALL 3 are tight with blue loctite on them.
Normally when I'm installing a torque converter (any model) I'll sink it in all the way, making sure the pump drive tangs (domestic models) are engaged. On the 003 AT I'll make sure the pump drive shaft (rod) is in all the way and spin it to make sure it's engaged, then I'll slip the converter on. I'll spin it (the converter) while pushing on the front of the converter to make sure it engages ALL of the splines on the trans including the pump drive shaft (you might need to wiggle the converter to make sure it's engaged). If you're watching it as it goes on, you'll see it move inward on each of the shafts (splines) and drop inward. If you're lucky, you'll still have a "dirt line" from the converter spinning, that you can use as a reference to know you've sunk it far enough in (maybe even go that extra 3/4 to 1 inch inward further). Then bolt up the engine to the trans, then start your converter bolts like I described above. Make sure you add the blue loctite to the bolts, so they don't vibrate out while you're driving the car. Note: the VW factory used something similar too when they first built the car. I hope this helps. |
Bob as always you are a star ⭐️. Thank you so much, your wisdom has been a blessing for me 🤙
I’m off to Africa next week (The Gambia 🇬🇲) so the requests for help/info will subside.
_________________
1962 Gulf Blue Patina Deluxe Beetle
1963 SubHatch Westfalia MG/PW
1967 Fastback RHD Regatta Blue
1970 FI Auto Squareback
1990 Doka RHD
http://www.youtube.com/@BuscowboyClassics
https://www.instagram.com/buscowboy/ |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22439
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2024 2:05 pm Post subject: Re: Auto transmission guru advice please |
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|
| Buscowboy wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Buscowboy wrote: |
It has been mentioned that when I install the torque converter it must have a gap of 1/2” from the flex plate. How do I achieve this please, any tips or tricks ?
Thanks |
What you'll find is that when you install the converter it'll go in about 1 full inch (maybe a little more), then you pull it back out to bolt up to the flex plate (this is normal on most automatics from every manufacturer). I normally just wind the converter bolts in by hand, until I have all 3 in place, then remove the last one, and add some blue loctite to it, then install it and torque it to spec. I then repeat this on the other 2 bolts, until ALL 3 are tight with blue loctite on them.
Normally when I'm installing a torque converter (any model) I'll sink it in all the way, making sure the pump drive tangs (domestic models) are engaged. On the 003 AT I'll make sure the pump drive shaft (rod) is in all the way and spin it to make sure it's engaged, then I'll slip the converter on. I'll spin it (the converter) while pushing on the front of the converter to make sure it engages ALL of the splines on the trans including the pump drive shaft (you might need to wiggle the converter to make sure it's engaged). If you're watching it as it goes on, you'll see it move inward on each of the shafts (splines) and drop inward. If you're lucky, you'll still have a "dirt line" from the converter spinning, that you can use as a reference to know you've sunk it far enough in (maybe even go that extra 3/4 to 1 inch inward further). Then bolt up the engine to the trans, then start your converter bolts like I described above. Make sure you add the blue loctite to the bolts, so they don't vibrate out while you're driving the car. Note: the VW factory used something similar too when they first built the car. I hope this helps. |
Bob as always you are a star ⭐️. Thank you so much, your wisdom has been a blessing for me 🤙
I’m off to Africa next week (The Gambia 🇬🇲) so the requests for help/info will subside. |
Well, my post will still be here after you get back. Enjoy your holiday and have some fun. 
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Buscowboy
Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2004
Posts: 403
Location: South Coast, England
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| Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2024 8:55 am Post subject: Re: Auto transmission guru advice please |
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Well it’s been a while. The weather here in the U.K. has been non stop wind & rain and as I’m doing the work on my drive it’s weather dependant.
So today I was dreading popping the trans oil plug, for good reason too I think. The fluid did not come flooding out if anything it was a little low, however; it seems to have a reddish tint to it so I suspect the seal between gear oil and AT fluid has failed. I can’t be sure but it’s probably better to get the box rebuilt. I think Bob mentioned to use the Master rebuild kit from Rock Auto, they seem out of stock so is there anywhere else I could try? Please remember I’m in the U.K. so I’m pretty sure no one stocks them here or even Europe for that matter.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Johnny
_________________
1962 Gulf Blue Patina Deluxe Beetle
1963 SubHatch Westfalia MG/PW
1967 Fastback RHD Regatta Blue
1970 FI Auto Squareback
1990 Doka RHD
http://www.youtube.com/@BuscowboyClassics
https://www.instagram.com/buscowboy/ |
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Multi69s
Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 5371
Location: Lefty, CA
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Buscowboy
Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2004
Posts: 403
Location: South Coast, England
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| Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2024 3:46 pm Post subject: Re: Auto transmission guru advice please |
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| Multi69s wrote: |
Here you go: This is the top line kit, they also have different levels.
https://cobratransmission.com/volkswagen-003-master-kit-1969-1975
Sorry if I'm not on here much. I've been bitten by the side by side bug. Those that know me know that nothing ever stays stock. So between my side by side, 5 dirt bikes, living on acreage, my life tends to rotate in a cyclical cycle. Meaning I have to rotate through my different areas.
I still haven't posted about my recent Type 4 engine rebuild - It came out phenomenal. |
Many thanks for the info I will give them a try. 🤙
_________________
1962 Gulf Blue Patina Deluxe Beetle
1963 SubHatch Westfalia MG/PW
1967 Fastback RHD Regatta Blue
1970 FI Auto Squareback
1990 Doka RHD
http://www.youtube.com/@BuscowboyClassics
https://www.instagram.com/buscowboy/ |
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