Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
Flat spot on FI automatic
Page: Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5
Forum Index -> Type 3 Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
raygreenwood
Samba Member


Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21521
Location: Oklahoma City
raygreenwood is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2024 5:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Flat spot on FI automatic Reply with quote

t-royR wrote:
I am still getting confused with the references made to these two sensors and which I am to be testing.

I just go done oven testing the sensor that screws into the head. And, at 275, it read around 170.

Is it the other sensor you suggest I test in the oven (the crank sensor that sits with the AAR)?

Thanks


On all but the earliest D-jet cars.....the sensor that screws into the head is called TS-2. The one that screws into either the top of the engine case or into the intake manifold is called TS-1.

Because of the confusion that the factory literature and some books caused.....these two part names were reversed in earlier systems.....for a long time I reverted to calling them by what they do....CHT= cylinder head temperature sensor....or IAT= intake air temperature sensor.

In years lately....the L-jet guys only know these sensors by the late names....TS-2 for CHT and TS-1 for intake air....and most D-jet guys are on later systems so I found no issues with calling them by TS-2 and TS-1.....but for this thread I will revert to calling them out by location.

But.....170 ohms at 275°...for the CHT that screws into the head...while not ideal to factory spec....is actually not bad. It means when you get closer to peak head temps on a hot day....you will probably only be down near 100-125 ohms. I would rather have that than lower. Lower is leaner.

Again....getting to be pretty sure now it's not your CHT sensor causing the seriously lean condition. Ray
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Bobnotch
Samba Member


Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22439
Location: Kimball, Mi
Bobnotch is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2024 1:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Flat spot on FI automatic Reply with quote

I prefer to call them out by location myself. That way even the type 4 guys understand which sensor I'm talking about. I even call out the sensor located in the case (68-69 models) the IAT sensor, as it's a 2 terminal sensor found in the D-jet wiring diagrams, and most of the time will be found screwed into the plenum unless were dealing with a 68 or 69 system.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
raygreenwood
Samba Member


Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21521
Location: Oklahoma City
raygreenwood is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2024 7:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Flat spot on FI automatic Reply with quote

So....back on page 1....you showed us pictures of two of your SPARE MPS's.

But I do not recall is you showed up any pictures of the back end of the MPS you are using.

Can you post a picture or that please?

Technically there are three basic MPS designs. There is the early "B" with the slotted small diameter screw covered with epoxy. Everything you list says you should have a B system and this should be the correct MPS for your system. It's also what you showed for spares.

The next one is the "E" series that looks very similar to the B....and is parts # 311 906 051 E...but instead of a slotted screw it has an allen/hex key adjustment. Sometimes when they are grimy that "E" can look like a "B" make sure you do not have an "E".

The E has very similar guts to the B but has a hollow adjusting screw and samples atmospheric pressure through that hex screw.

The last version is the C and similar....in type 3.....or B, C, and E in 411/412 and 914 ....type 4....and is totally different and you do not need to worry about that. Ray
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
t-royR
Samba Member


Joined: April 19, 2012
Posts: 464
Location: Minnesota
t-royR is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2024 11:44 am    Post subject: Re: Flat spot on FI automatic Reply with quote

Looks like I have the correct MPS on the car (see photo).

Troy
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
T-roy
75 Super
71 Super
71 Ghia coupe auto-stick
71 Ghia conv
69 Fasty
74 Ghia conv
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
raygreenwood
Samba Member


Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21521
Location: Oklahoma City
raygreenwood is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2024 1:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Flat spot on FI automatic Reply with quote

t-royR wrote:
Looks like I have the correct MPS on the car (see photo).

Troy
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Yep! Thank you!

It's also nice that most of those early ones have screws holding them together instead of rivets.

Once all other possibilities are exhausted, the final stage may be opening the unit up and turning the adjusting screw to add some fuel. It will also allow you to inspect to make sure nothing is impinging on the armature rod or that the aneroid chamber is not cracked.

The way these things work is that you have an induction coil inside of the vacuum nipple end. It has a leaf spring suspension system that holds a precision machined iron rod at a specific position inside of the hole in the coil.

There is a beryllium copper chamber (it's an aneroid barometric chamber)....with a specific atmospheric pressure level inside of it.

That adjusting screw on the other end of the MPS with the epoxy cover bears against this flexible chamber putting a certain amount of force on it and lightly compressing it. That chamber is like a spring. The other side of that chamber is held against that iron rod that is also spring loaded.

When you are idling....vacuum inside is high so the reference atmosphere inside of that aneroid chamber causes the chamber to swell. It gets wider.....which causes it to push that spring loaded and suspended iron rod....deeper into the induction coil. The twin coils use magnetic induction to read/judge the position of that rod and send a signal to the ECU saying "idle"....don't need much fuel.

When you step on the gas....throttle opens....vacuum inside the manifold drops so it drops inside of the MPS. The higher atmospheric level "squishes" the swelled aneroid chamber allowing the iron rod to rapidly move outward from its "lean" spot inside the coil....signaling enrichment.

So turning the adjustment screw outward takes pressure off of the aneroid chamber and let's the rod move outward making the baseline more rich.

Usually if you are making it leaner you can turn the adjusting rod from the inside on some models. The problem is that the epoxy is also in the slot on the adjusting screw so I am pretty sure you will need to remove the epoxy to do any adjustments.

There are several things that can cause the iron rod to freeze or stick after a long time. So it's worth it to open the unit up anyway.

1. You can get water inside and it corroded the rod to the coil. If that had happened, usually your MPS would look far worse on the outside.

2. A combination of motor oil and fuel vapors gets inside of these on a regular basis from the oil bath air cleaner and evaporating fuel in the ports after shutdown. Over the years it can form a varnish film that spans the gap between iron rod and coil walls and sticks the rod in place or prevents it from moving full stroke. That's usually easy to fix.

Not there yet. It's worth replacing your TS-1 and Ts-2 first.

Ray
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
t-royR
Samba Member


Joined: April 19, 2012
Posts: 464
Location: Minnesota
t-royR is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2024 4:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Flat spot on FI automatic Reply with quote

Thanks. I have new sensors on order.
I'll get those in and then conduct the other checks mentioned earlier.
_________________
T-roy
75 Super
71 Super
71 Ghia coupe auto-stick
71 Ghia conv
69 Fasty
74 Ghia conv
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
t-royR
Samba Member


Joined: April 19, 2012
Posts: 464
Location: Minnesota
t-royR is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2024 4:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Flat spot on FI automatic Reply with quote

Good day,
I have the new temp sensors in the engine. Yay!

I ran the car for a good ten minutes after starting (it was idling perfectly). I ran it slowly up to 1800 and then beyond on the rpms and hit no flat spot. Continued to return to nice idle.

When I put it into gear, it once again dropped significantly in rpms (from 1200 to 550), as was the case before changing out the sensors. And, after putting the car back into neutral, it struggled to idle as nice as it did before going into gear.

Timing is good and plugs too. Valves were adjusted in the late fall. Did a check on fuel pressure and steady at 28 psi.

I must remind that when the car ran at its best a few years back, when I went to start the car when it was cold, it would pop off within 1/2 a second of the ignition key turn. Since these issues, it takes a couple of tries to get the car to start, with having to let it crank over for a good few seconds.

BUT, earlier in our testing of things (page two of this thread I think), I pulled that hose that goes to the tranny, and plugged it. When I started the car with that hose detached and plugged, the car started right off like it did a few years ago. Thought that was worth noting as we move onto next things to test/adjust.

Thanks
_________________
T-roy
75 Super
71 Super
71 Ghia coupe auto-stick
71 Ghia conv
69 Fasty
74 Ghia conv
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
raygreenwood
Samba Member


Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21521
Location: Oklahoma City
raygreenwood is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2024 7:46 am    Post subject: Re: Flat spot on FI automatic Reply with quote

t-royR wrote:
Good day,
I have the new temp sensors in the engine. Yay!

I ran the car for a good ten minutes after starting (it was idling perfectly). I ran it slowly up to 1800 and then beyond on the rpms and hit no flat spot. Continued to return to nice idle.

When I put it into gear, it once again dropped significantly in rpms (from 1200 to 550), as was the case before changing out the sensors. And, after putting the car back into neutral, it struggled to idle as nice as it did before going into gear.

Timing is good and plugs too. Valves were adjusted in the late fall. Did a check on fuel pressure and steady at 28 psi.

I must remind that when the car ran at its best a few years back, when I went to start the car when it was cold, it would pop off within 1/2 a second of the ignition key turn. Since these issues, it takes a couple of tries to get the car to start, with having to let it crank over for a good few seconds.

BUT, earlier in our testing of things (page two of this thread I think), I pulled that hose that goes to the tranny, and plugged it. When I started the car with that hose detached and plugged, the car started right off like it did a few years ago. Thought that was worth noting as we move onto next things to test/adjust.

Thanks


Ok....now knowing all of what we know........this issue with removing the hose and plugging it and having it start more normally. If the modulator valve is leaking....this issue can indicate that it's leaking. So grab a hand vacuum pump and connect it to the modulator valve. Pull about 15" of vacuum and hold it. It should not leak down.

BUT......a vacuum leak in D-jet causes ENRICHMENT. I will state that in D-jet with the non-diaphram style MPS....like you have.....sometimes very small vacuum leaks that are dumped into the intake plenum in just the right spot can have little or no effect on the MPS with regard to enrichment and simply act like a normal vacuum leak does on L-jet or a carburetor. Just making it a little leaner. That's possible but I am not banking on It yet.

Here is the train of thought that supports that last statement:

We have been saying that from the beginning you seem to be running very lean. Remember a couple of pages back where I "brain farted" and stated you were too rich instead of very lean?.....the reason that happend (other than being tired and working late)....is because there are times when some of your symptoms act like you are alternatly running rich.

You have been through fuel pressure, you have been through the TS-1 and Ts-2 sensors. Make sure your ignition timing is spot on. Make sure you do not have low voltage.....and let's try something.

First check to see if your modulator valve is leaking vacuum.

Then as an experiment, with a fuel pressure gauge attached to the fuel line, .....grab a couple of jumper wires and plug the fuel pump straight to the battery....make sure you have the polarity correct. This will cause the fuel pump to run constant with the ignition off and the engine stone cold.

Grab your wrench and socket and add 3 psi of fuel pressure adjustment to a total of 31 psi. This adds 10.571% of fuel enrichment across the board. Wait....just for the heck of it make it an even 4 psi. That won't hurt anything. It will give you a dead on enrichment of ~14% across the entire running range.

Now try and start it and see how it runs. You may even find it runs and starts better at 2 psi or 3 psi extra....but it confirms something....that you actually ARE grossly lean.

If it starts and runs worse, let the car cool down to stone cold, hot wire the pump again....and take the fuel pressure down to 25 psi.....leaner.....and try it again.

Oh....also....does your intake TB have the small spring loaded throttle return dashpot on it? Ray.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
t-royR
Samba Member


Joined: April 19, 2012
Posts: 464
Location: Minnesota
t-royR is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2024 6:32 am    Post subject: Re: Flat spot on FI automatic Reply with quote

taking it step by step here. I ramped the fuel pressure up to 31 psi. Car started fine, (actually, kicked off a bit sooner than it did before this adjustment).

RPM does still drop significantly when put in gear. I'll try reducing the pressure now and report back on that.

I've included a pic of the TB here, as I am not sure how to answer your last question on it.

Finally, I don't have a hand pump to test that modulator. any hacks I can use to test? I have a hand pump I use for sucking old gas out of my tank when I need to. could I McGiver somoething out of that?
_________________
T-roy
75 Super
71 Super
71 Ghia coupe auto-stick
71 Ghia conv
69 Fasty
74 Ghia conv
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
raygreenwood
Samba Member


Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21521
Location: Oklahoma City
raygreenwood is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2024 8:58 am    Post subject: Re: Flat spot on FI automatic Reply with quote

t-royR wrote:
taking it step by step here. I ramped the fuel pressure up to 31 psi. Car started fine, (actually, kicked off a bit sooner than it did before this adjustment).

RPM does still drop significantly when put in gear. I'll try reducing the pressure now and report back on that.

I've included a pic of the TB here, as I am not sure how to answer your last question on it.

Finally, I don't have a hand pump to test that modulator. any hacks I can use to test? I have a hand pump I use for sucking old gas out of my tank when I need to. could I McGiver somoething out of that?


So a quick "vacuum tightness" test is to take a clean piece of cheap vinyl tubing....like that clear stuff you find at hardware stores....and slip it onto the vacuum nipple tightly. Then suck on the end of it and put your tongue over the end so vacuum cannot escape. Even that that's low vacuum....vacuum is vacuum. If it does not leak down this way....it's not leaking.

Also, if any red transmission fluid comes out of the vacuum nipple or is inside of the vacuum line to the engine....it's leaking.

And, the rpm is supposed to drop when it's in gear. 500-ish is a little low but not much.

Part of the issue is that the main pressure in your valve body may be off. Sooner or later you will need to be doing the tests of fluid pressure that are in the automatic section of the Bentley brown book. Of course if you are grossly lean or rich that can be part of it too.

I will have to look in the book but for certain years there is a little spring loaded part that contacts the lever on the throttle to slow down its closing to allow the torque converter to decouple as you come to a stop to prevent the engine from stalling. Later type 4 cars used a vacuum version of it. More later. Ray
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
t-royR
Samba Member


Joined: April 19, 2012
Posts: 464
Location: Minnesota
t-royR is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2024 11:04 am    Post subject: Re: Flat spot on FI automatic Reply with quote

Hello,
I brought the fuel line pressure down to 25 and the car did not like it. It started, but took a bit more, and idled poorly. Also, when I gave it some gas, it really complained.

I've added a photo of the TB
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
T-roy
75 Super
71 Super
71 Ghia coupe auto-stick
71 Ghia conv
69 Fasty
74 Ghia conv
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
t-royR
Samba Member


Joined: April 19, 2012
Posts: 464
Location: Minnesota
t-royR is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2024 11:35 am    Post subject: Re: Flat spot on FI automatic Reply with quote

Okay. few updates/observations...

1) returned the fuel pressure to 29. idles like a champ. still drops to 500 rpm when put in drive.

2) while idling nicely with 29 psi, I unplugged the case temp sensor, to test the effect I experienced last time unplugging it......which is that the idle increased 100 rpms, and when put in gear, only dropped to 800 rpm. same affect this time.

not sure if we're any closer to a resolution; if there is still a problem (I don't like how much the rpm drops when put in gear); does the effect noted in #2 above signify anything to act on? It is a new sensor

Finally, an observation.....I had the air filter removed while I was adjusting the fuel pressure (and had the car running at that time), and I wondered it there should be any suction from the AAR once the car is warm. I thought it was temp activated, and cut off air once car is warm. I had pulled that AAR earlier and tested it with a hair dryer and found it closed completely. But, wiht that said, I wouldn't expect to have suction from it. I did plug that hose and then dropped the car into gear, which had no different affect than when it is not plugged.
_________________
T-roy
75 Super
71 Super
71 Ghia coupe auto-stick
71 Ghia conv
69 Fasty
74 Ghia conv
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
raygreenwood
Samba Member


Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21521
Location: Oklahoma City
raygreenwood is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2024 12:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Flat spot on FI automatic Reply with quote

t-royR wrote:
Okay. few updates/observations...

1) returned the fuel pressure to 29. idles like a champ. still drops to 500 rpm when put in drive.

2) while idling nicely with 29 psi, I unplugged the case temp sensor, to test the effect I experienced last time unplugging it......which is that the idle increased 100 rpms, and when put in gear, only dropped to 800 rpm. same affect this time.

not sure if we're any closer to a resolution; if there is still a problem (I don't like how much the rpm drops when put in gear); does the effect noted in #2 above signify anything to act on? It is a new sensor

Finally, an observation.....I had the air filter removed while I was adjusting the fuel pressure (and had the car running at that time), and I wondered it there should be any suction from the AAR once the car is warm. I thought it was temp activated, and cut off air once car is warm. I had pulled that AAR earlier and tested it with a hair dryer and found it closed completely. But, wiht that said, I wouldn't expect to have suction from it. I did plug that hose and then dropped the car into gear, which had no different affect than when it is not plugged.



So....are you saying that with the car warmed up you ARE SEEING suction on the AAR? This would not be out of the ordinary....but can be part of the issue. In fact is is a problem.

In fact, the mechanical AAR that the type 3 had...I have never found one operating properly. Never.

Bear in mind that I got my first type 3...a 1972 fastback....in about 1987 or 1988. Then shortly after I picked up a 1970 model. Both of these had a lot of miles on them. I found over the years that virtually all of the AAR were either gummed up and needed to be stripped and cleaned or even then the bi-metallic spring had so many cycles on it that it could no longer fully close the AAR. A very common problem.

Yes...you can adjust the spring tension with the small set screw...but that gives yiou anither issue. Now it changes the timing of when it starts to open and close. Not perfect.

The later electrically heated models that late type 3 and all ttype 4 used were better but had their on issues.

The problem with the AAR hanging open...is that if it does....you should NOT be having the "grossly lean" issue....or at least not until when and if the AAR fully closes....because...again....if the AAR is puttuing air into the manifold its acting like a throttle opening. It tells the MPS to give more fuel.

But...think along these lines....if its idling and the throttle is closed....then the TVS switch is closed and you "falsly" get no enrichment..?...maybe?...so then it runs very lean at idle....because you have excessive air bypassing into the intake manifold but....not enrichment allowance from the MPS due to TVS signaling throttle closed.

So....then once you step on the gas....TVS signals open....and MPS is reading both throttle opening air and AAR open air....so you "might" get too much enrichment.

I always thought that the TS-1 being down in the engine case was kind of stupid. Yes, it woul seem to be more stable (and it was in tehse early systems)....because it acts more like the TS-2 or head temperatrure sensor....meaning....its cold when you start up so it gives you more enrichment until the engine case warms up. Then once its warmed up....being in the engine case....it stabilizes...stay warm and does not change moment to moment like the one can when its mounted in the intake manifold.

But, I always felt like the one in the intake manifold had better overall calibration in the ECU's that worked with it. It still had some of the same issue that in certain seasons...the car ran and started better if you just left the TS-2 mounted in the intake manifold unplugged.

But.....I think this is till inching toward an eventual MPS adjustment.

As I noted before, this can also be the MPS being filthy and oily inside and having sludge in the wrong places. Its worth opening up and cleaning because this is a common issue.

So the throttle spring dashpot I was asking about...partly solves some of the issue with coming to a stop and the idle dropping too low and stalling. But...I think it may have only come on later years.

You can see it circled and some commentary about it in this thread and on this page. Looking at your intake manifold I dont think yours ever had one.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9464903&sid=b40bc4603fdddf480796a7c91a6c6726

Ray
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
t-royR
Samba Member


Joined: April 19, 2012
Posts: 464
Location: Minnesota
t-royR is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2024 6:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Flat spot on FI automatic Reply with quote

I took my backup pressure sensor apart to get acquainted and to see how dirty it might be. I didn't go deep and take out the inner parts. There was some very small amount of oil in there. So, since I had to move the car out of its winter spot to the garage, I put the backup sensor into the car. Seemed to run rather similar to the one I took out. I'm going to check on the plugs and double check timing.

QUESTION.... I put the new head temp sensor in earlier on. So, today was first test drive with that in. Of course, I park the car and find a nice new oil spot just below that sensor. Sure enough, leaking. MIght have been the source of my mystery oil leak all along. But, question is, what kind of washer goes on the end of that sensor before inserting into the head? I found a spring/wavy washer near my work area, which I think came off there, but not so sure as it is a little larger ID. Looks worn into an out-of-round ID. Can someone point me to the right washer type to put in there??

Thanks
_________________
T-roy
75 Super
71 Super
71 Ghia coupe auto-stick
71 Ghia conv
69 Fasty
74 Ghia conv
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
KTPhil Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34023
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
KTPhil is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2024 8:39 am    Post subject: Re: Flat spot on FI automatic Reply with quote

The threaded hole the sensor screws into is closed off... no chance of an oil leak.
I think the gasket is as a crush washer to help hold it in place, not a seal.
_________________
Current Fleet:
'71 Fastback
'69 Westfalia
Retired:
'67 Beetle
'65 Beetle (x2)
'65 Bus
'71 Squareback
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Bobnotch
Samba Member


Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22439
Location: Kimball, Mi
Bobnotch is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2024 10:59 am    Post subject: Re: Flat spot on FI automatic Reply with quote

KTPhil wrote:
The threaded hole the sensor screws into is closed off... no chance of an oil leak.
I think the gasket is as a crush washer to help hold it in place, not a seal.


Yup, it's to help keep it from rotating. That's why it's a flat wavy washer.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
t-royR
Samba Member


Joined: April 19, 2012
Posts: 464
Location: Minnesota
t-royR is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2024 5:59 am    Post subject: Re: Flat spot on FI automatic Reply with quote

As always, thanks for the info!

Update....I checked the modulator on the transmission and it does not leak. Yay.

I'll be getting the car out for a good test drive today and assess where things are at now. What still remains for me is to accept and move on regarding the drop in rpm when put in gear. Or, keep chasing it. I think I"ll pull the AAR and clean it good, to make sure it can close all the way. Did that once months ago, so can't figure out why I now have suction on the hose feeding the AAR when the engine is all warmed up. I'll test plugging that hose and then putting the car in gear to see if the drop in rpm changes.

Any other thoughts out there with all I've been through and all I have tested? I'll add one more thing, just for the heck of it......When I had the air filter off as I was changing the fuel pressure, I ran the car and could hear a lot of air moving, seemingly through the oil breather. I could feel the air blowing out of the hose coming off of there that usually attaches to the air filter. That makes sense to me, but the amount of hissing I heard with that air filter off and the hoses to it detached, surprised me.

Thanks
_________________
T-roy
75 Super
71 Super
71 Ghia coupe auto-stick
71 Ghia conv
69 Fasty
74 Ghia conv
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
raygreenwood
Samba Member


Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21521
Location: Oklahoma City
raygreenwood is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2024 7:55 am    Post subject: Re: Flat spot on FI automatic Reply with quote

t-royR wrote:
As always, thanks for the info!

Update....I checked the modulator on the transmission and it does not leak. Yay.

I'll be getting the car out for a good test drive today and assess where things are at now. What still remains for me is to accept and move on regarding the drop in rpm when put in gear. Or, keep chasing it. I think I"ll pull the AAR and clean it good, to make sure it can close all the way. Did that once months ago, so can't figure out why I now have suction on the hose feeding the AAR when the engine is all warmed up. I'll test plugging that hose and then putting the car in gear to see if the drop in rpm changes.

Any other thoughts out there with all I've been through and all I have tested? I'll add one more thing, just for the heck of it......When I had the air filter off as I was changing the fuel pressure, I ran the car and could hear a lot of air moving, seemingly through the oil breather. I could feel the air blowing out of the hose coming off of there that usually attaches to the air filter. That makes sense to me, but the amount of hissing I heard with that air filter off and the hoses to it detached, surprised me.

Thanks
.


A couple of things. You do know that the rpm is supposed to drop when you put in gear right?
Yours may be dropping a little more than it should....but it's supposed to drop when you put it in gear.

As I noted before, unless its been done already....it's decades past time to put the pressure gauges on it and check and adjust the main fluid pressure in the valve body. Out of all of the 003's I have driven or worked on....100% of them were in need of this normal service.

It's probably also time to adjust the bands.

Cleaning will not fix the main problem that the mechanical AAR's have with age. When you had it out, did you adjust it? Even then, once adjusted it should close when fully warmed up.... but because it now will have more spring pressure on it, it closes earlier and in certain weather it can be rougher to start.

Then we are down to the still running lean.

Personally I would do all of the transmission work first but at least adjust the bands. Then to see if there is anything at least pressure related that is messing with the loading up of the transmission when in gear.....you can do a little seat of the pants testing.

Warm it up. With it in park, engine off and parking brake on, slide underneath with a 4mm Allen key and a sharpy pen. Pull the vacuum line off of the modulator valve. Stick the Allen key into the nipple to engage the adjusting screw. With the sharpy....mark where the short arm of the Allen key starts.

Turning the key outward lowers valve body pressure. Turning inward raises it. Just to see what happens, give it a full turn outward. This lowers the pressure. Put the Vacuum line back on and start it and put it gear. If the pressure is now too low, it will be slow to engage in gear and may have harsh shifting.
But make note if it affects idle. Then adjust it the other way....one full turn inward back to where it was and one more to see what happens.

I doubt this will affect the idle but it might.

It's probably time for an MPS adjustment after you fix the AAR. Ray
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Type 3 All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page: Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5
Page 5 of 5

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2023, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB
Links to eBay or other vendor sites may be affiliate links where the site receives compensation.