67 brake reservoir questions

[aquifer]

I’m replacing a leaking master cylinder in my 67. While I’m at it, I removed the reservoir to clean it and replace what looks to me like rubber fuel hoses being used for the supply hoses.

Anyway, it appears that there had been some gasket maker on the rubber seals (circled below). I got it cleaned off, but I’m wondering if I should smear a light coat of aviation gasket maker on them when I reassemble everything.

Is that a good idea? Thanks

Edited to add: how far on the steel lines should I put the hoses? The rubber lines that were on it were shoved clear up to the reservoir with two hose clamps on each one. That seems like overkill. Wondering what is normal.

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Current hobby vehicles:
1967 Beetle
1973 Beetle
1998 Jaguar XJR, restored myself, in near-immaculate condition

[zerotofifty]

I am not sure about the sealer. But you must make sure any sealer you use is brake fluid safe.

Black fluid hose should be used as not all fuel hose is compatible. Often the brake hose is blue colored, but not always.

The hose is typically inserted over the pipe no further than the bend in the pipe.

Use of hose or sealer that is not brake fluid compatible can contaminate and ruin the master cylinder.



Brake hose here.....
BLACK
https://www.jbugs.com/product/N203501.html?rrec=true

BLUE
https://www.mofoco.com/item/VW_BUG_CLOTH_BRAIDED_B.../2489/c161

CONFIRM THE HOSE DIAMETER YOU NEED BEFORE ORDEREING

[aquifer]

[zerotofifty]

[Eric&Barb]

Agreed on the DOT5, but it is still good to bleed once each wheel once a year to flush out any water that will settle into the lowest points of the brake system.

Have switched to DOT5 without changing out any brake rubber parts. Remove and take each wheel and the MC apart for cleaning/inspection and let dry out. Blow out the lines and let it all dry out for three weeks. This waiting time might be overkill, but has worked on four buses so far.

From reading around on WWW about DOT5 switching subject, looks like there was a problem with older NOS British brake parts kits that used natural rubber causing swelling. VWS since at least 1960 have used artificial rubber instead, maybe even earlier than that.

Getting 8 to 10 years between needing to take brakes apart due to rust caused cylinder leaks with DOT5. Instead of 18 to 24 months in our rainy PNW weather, when we used DOT3.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[scrivyscriv]

[aquifer]

[bnam]

[aquifer]

Helpful suggestions, thanks to all.

Thinking more about a switch to DOT 5: The brake system will be completely open. Is there any reason I couldn’t take a plastic syringe with DOT 5 in it and flush the lines? A chunk of brake hose pushed onto the syringe and the steel lines would do the trick - prior to hooking the lines up to the master cylinder and wheel cylinders.

For the rear line flush, I might have to plug one side at a time and flush the other. The fronts have their own lines anyway, so just a straight flush on those.

That would seem to be a good way to start fresh with DOT 5, no?
_________________
Current hobby vehicles:
1967 Beetle
1973 Beetle
1998 Jaguar XJR, restored myself, in near-immaculate condition

[wdfifteen]

[wdfifteen]

[Eric&Barb]

If DOT5 is spongy, it is not noticeable to us. DOT5 is somewhat thicker than DOT3, so it holds onto small air bubbles more. Think that is why folks report spongy feel. Do not do the stupid monkey trick of shaking the bottle before opening to feel how much fluid is in it, that makes small air bubbles, just pour it into the reservoir slowly. Then you are better off just walking away for the night, next day bleed. That lets air bubbles work out of the fluid while sitting in the reservoir. When bleeding do not slam the pedal, doing that makes big easy to bleed bubbles turn into small frothy bubbles spread out thru the fluid. Slower smooth pedal pumping works fine.

When bleeding dual circuit MC the brake shoes need to be tight to the drums. Front axle first, rear later.

You might contact Ronnie at "Bustoration.com" even though is business is all about buses, he has always been good about finding small brake parts for us or other NOS dealers in the classifieds like heimlich or vwman6559. Even could do a search of the classifieds for "NOS" or "1967 NOS" or 67 NOS" and check out who has the most adverts listed those ways and contact them about hard to find parts.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[aquifer]

[67rustavenger]

As weird as it sounds. Yes, start at the left front wheel cylinder and work your way away from the MC.

Like you, I was taught to start at the furthest away wheel cylinder and work my closer to the MC. It works, don't fight it.
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I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Eric&Barb]

From the VW Service Manuals:

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In Stereo, Where Available!

[Eric&Barb]

With air in both circuits, when you try to pump bleed the rear circuit first you are first pushing against the front circuit in the MC. So it is like having a huge fluffy pillow over the brake pedal when first rear bleeding.
_________________
In Stereo, Where Available!

[Eric&Barb]

[aquifer]

Well I’ll be. I stand corrected! I will follow your advice (and the manual).

I guess it does make sense, I have just assumed this was a set procedure and didn’t need revisiting!
_________________
Current hobby vehicles:
1967 Beetle
1973 Beetle
1998 Jaguar XJR, restored myself, in near-immaculate condition

[viiking]

And to totally confuse everyone.

FOR SOME OF US WITH DUAL MASTER CYLINDER FACTORY DISC BRAKES e.g.Euro Beetles.

Bleed the rears first then the fronts.
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1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3

[Eric&Barb]