brake fluid leak above transmission on my syncro

[SyncroButter]

Well, damn. Parked at work, pressed on brake pedal and it sank to the floor. After cursing a few times I hopped out to see what I could see, and there is lots of brake fluid dripping down in the rear from the area of my driver side transmission mount, dripping directly on my fuel pump. I will get it trailered home and into my shop space tonight, but from what I can see and what I just read here this looks like a total PITA job due to low access. I am comfortable fabricating/bending new hard lines FWIW.

Any words of wisdom from people who have tackled this before? I saw old mentions of people taking some interesting approaches including

removing coolant lines and possibly dropping trans to get to the spot
abandoning the current "tee" and both hard lines and relocating the T to a more accessible spot then running new hard lines from there
abandoning the current "tee" and both hard lines and using the braided soft lines to replace the hard lines,

Any words of wisdom from my Samba brethren would be appreciated!
_________________
Grant
In the stable: 1986 Syncro Westfalia/Bostig, 1989 Doka Tristar, 1974 Vespa Rally 200, 1973 Vespa Primavera 125, 1963 Solex 2200, 1938 Buick Special
Gone but not forgotten: 1989 Porsche 944, 1973 Standard Beetle

[E1]

Left you a vm… very nice to see you here!

Know little about Syncros… but first thought is a leaking slave cylinder, first lowering the fluid level in the under-dash reservoir, and then causing a soft brake pedal.

The brakes seem much more prone to fluid level than does the clutch, at least when we’ve had similar issues. Recommend the best slave you can get, ask a dedicated parts seller as I’m not sure what brand that is.

Best of Luck, if it is what I described the fix is reasonably simple.
_________________
If ever twice as rich, we’re gettin’ a double-wide
’84 “Westfailure”/2.1 Digijet/5.43 Ring & Pinion/Peloquin/D-rated BFG KO2s

AI has spoken to further illiteracy, to steal, to cheat, and to replace humans

[MsTaboo]

Can't offer any help on replacing that section of brake line in-situ, but here are a couple pics showing the brake lines behind the fuel tank to give you an idea of the layout.

And by the fuel pump:

Before digging too deep a good look at the clutch hardline and it's connections is definitely worth it (along with checking for a bad clutch slave).
How low is the fluid reservoir? Is it below the brake inlet?
The plastic clutch line can be fairly easily replaced with a braided stainless line if it's a leak in that hardline.

If your brake lines are so corroded that they are springing leaks then a complete inspection might be in order.
Might be easier in the long run to drop the engine/transaxle.
Is this the Westy with a Bostig/Zetec conversion?
_________________
Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec

The information age has morphed into the age of disinformation and willful ignorance. Agnotology!
When you stir up shit you're bound to get some on yourself.
Resist Kleptocratic Oligarchy (and Idiocracy)!

[SyncroButter]

Thanks both!

I wish this was clutch hydraulics but it is not, I can use the clutch and no drips but then when I press the brake pedal it is a rapid drip. Gross.

Looking at the pics (which are SUPER helpful BTW!) I am thinking I need to drop the engine and trans, and might as well R&R my gas tank as long as I am in that far. This is indeed my syncro westy which has a group 7 Bostig in it.

I am surprised that I have the leak, and it seems like a real gusher... I would guesstimate a tablespoon per minute. In general my westy is fairly clean but then again this would be an original 1986 steel line.
_________________
Grant
In the stable: 1986 Syncro Westfalia/Bostig, 1989 Doka Tristar, 1974 Vespa Rally 200, 1973 Vespa Primavera 125, 1963 Solex 2200, 1938 Buick Special
Gone but not forgotten: 1989 Porsche 944, 1973 Standard Beetle

[DanHoug]

keep in mind you don't have to run the brake line in the exact same position as it was. using a nickel-copper line, you can snake it around to where it needs to end up, just try to secure it to the body to prevent vibration fatigue as well as abrasion.
_________________
-dan
60% of what you find on the internet is wrong, including this post.

'87 Westy & '89 Westy both 2.1 4spd

Past projects can be found at--
www.thefixitworkshop.com

[MarkWard]

Ideally it’s a flex hose. If the hard line has rusted through, best to inspect them all. I replaced all the rusted brake lines on a syncro without much actual disassembly, but hours fabricating new lines. I believe you can lower the front of the transaxle, but supported to gain access to the rear lines and the T. The above pictures are nice, but a lot of the van is removed. It’s a cussing job on an assembled syncro, but doable. As I said, if one line failed the others could be in similar condition. So, at a minimum replace the left and right rear lines while you have access.

[Phishman068]

I've done this job (replacing this particular line to the T) on several busses both 2wd and syncro. I can't imagine being able to get to that line with the transmission in on a syncro, it's definitely going to have to come out (in my opinion/memory).

I find half the time just getting any of those three lines off that T can be TERRIBLE, especially if there's any rust.
This job can be a fight.
_________________
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559766&highlight=winter+rust
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482402&highlight=sunroof+syncro
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569774
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6864936#6864936

"Along with the ability to go fast, one looses the desire to hurry."

[4Gears4Tires]

I wouldn't bother with trying to remove the original lines and drop the trans/engine unless you have other stuff to do or you REALLY enjoy being that extra.

I would cut the line that goes to the rear, use a compression coupler to a nickel copper line with a new T junction to go to each side and run new lines to each trailing arm. Nickel copper is easy to bend by hand, easy to flare by hand, and easy to run, buy a 25' roll online and some fittings. Just run the lines wherever is convenient.

Next time you actually need to drop the trans and engine, then remove all the rusted out bits and run the lines properly.
_________________
'87 Syncro Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition
'85 Westy Sciuridae Domus Edition