| Author |
Message |
William Mercer
Samba Member
Joined: February 29, 2004
Posts: 88
|
 Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2004 8:57 pm Post subject: Valves... |
 |
|
| I am still new to the VW world. I am loving the rewards of figuring out and applying newfound knowlege. I have done a correct valve adjustment on my 2.0 engine before. However, I just tried my first thorough tune-up(plugs, points, condenser, rotor, cap, oil, and valves.) I just couldn't get a read on the back two valves. The feeler wouldn't go in between the valve and the rocker arm for some reason. Now it's running worse than before. Especially at start-up. Very frustrating. I don't know what's wrong. It seems to be good when it warms up though. I just don't want to do unnecessary dammage. Can someone please help?! |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
ratwell
Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2003
Posts: 8731
Location: Victoria, BC
|
| Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2004 10:03 pm Post subject: |
|
|
What year is your bus? 78 and 79 models had GE engines with hydraulic valves that don't require a clearance between the adjustment screw and the valve stem when the engine is cold. Do you have a GD engine?
Second, how did you perform the adjustment? Did you align the distributor rotor with the notch on the distributor body so you started with cylinder #1? Did you then do the values in 1-2-3-4 order by rotating the engine CCW 180 degrees after adjusting the valves for each cylinder?
Barring those issues, did you seat the push rod in the cup of each rocker arm properly?
_________________
'78 Westfalia CDN
'76 Doublecab Sweden
Read the Baywindow FAQ |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
William Mercer
Samba Member
Joined: February 29, 2004
Posts: 88
|
| Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2004 7:23 am Post subject: |
|
|
| The bus is a 1976 so I think the valves can be adjusted. I got the distributor right, pointing to the notch and rotated CCW for each cylinder. I am not sure about having the valves seated though. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Randy in Maine
Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003
Posts: 34890
Location: The Beach
|
| Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2004 7:34 am Post subject: |
|
|
Possible that in the past 28 years the engine was changed to hydraulic lifters, so the adjustment would be different. Anything is possible.
Do a search here on "hydraulic lifters" and you will find out how to determine if you have them or not.
Assuming you have the mechanical lifters since you have adjusted them before, do as Ratwell says there to make sure they are in the cup. Also make sure that the rocker arm bolts are not backing out when you release the adjustment nut. That has happened to me before.
Sometimes it pays to just start over doing the procedure and assume nothing. Easy to be out of phase and not realize it. Done that before also.
Also, once you find TDC and are positive about it, mark it with a white line (paint or something similar). Then mark the pulley 180* from that with 2 white lines. It will be useful in the future. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
ratwell
Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2003
Posts: 8731
Location: Victoria, BC
|
| Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2004 9:10 am Post subject: |
|
|
I've never tried this but it seems reasonable: measure the distance of the valve spring washer to the head along the valve stem and see if you get an abnormal measurement compared to the other valves.
_________________
'78 Westfalia CDN
'76 Doublecab Sweden
Read the Baywindow FAQ |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
