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burdpete
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Joined: October 24, 2007
Posts: 544
Location: Nebraska
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 Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 12:49 pm Post subject: Tuning Kadron carbs |
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I bought a pair of Solex 40/44 carbs for my stock 1600 DP. What is the vacuum port for in the picture. Could it be for the vacuum advance? Only one of the carbs has this port. The carbs came with the following jets.
air 150
main 125
idle 55
venturis 28
Are they anywhere close to start tuning or should I try some other jets to start with?
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Max Welton
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Location: Black Forest, CO
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burdpete
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Joined: October 24, 2007
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Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 6:47 pm Post subject: |
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Cool
I couldnt think of any other reason for a vac port. Did you just do one carb for your dizzy signal or did you do both?
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Max Welton
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atye
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Joined: September 02, 2004
Posts: 580
Location: Peachtree City, GA
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| Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 5:35 am Post subject: |
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Max,
What is this image showing?
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Alex
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DarthWeber
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Joined: November 24, 2007
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Location: Whittier,CA
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| Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:26 am Post subject: |
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Burdpete, your jetting is close to what came stock on the Kadrons, the exception being the main jet was 130. These carbs came jetted for stock 1600's but each motor is a little different in what it needs for fuel. It should be very close though so bolt them on and give it a try. You may want to check out AJ Sims site as he has a lot of info on tuning Kadrons as well as vacuum advance distributors for them.
http://www.lowbugget.com/main_page.html
Atye, I believe the picture shows where the vacuum is drawn from to provide vacuum at the port for an SVDA distributor. |
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atye
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Joined: September 02, 2004
Posts: 580
Location: Peachtree City, GA
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| Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:32 am Post subject: |
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| DarthWeber wrote: |
| Atye, I believe the picture shows where the vacuum is drawn from to provide vacuum at the port for an SVDA distributor. |
So, all I have to do is to insert a vacuum fitting in that spot? No other mods? I have a Mallory Unilite w/vac adv and would love to use it with these carbs.
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Alex
1990 Audi 90q 20v sedan
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DarthWeber
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| Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:37 am Post subject: |
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| I've never done the mod myself but Max can tell you for sure. You could also do a search, I know there's a thread about how to drill the Kads for vacuum port. |
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57baja
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Joined: April 15, 2008
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Location: Kaddie Shack Temple City
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| Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 12:49 pm Post subject: |
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| atye wrote: |
Max,
What is this image showing?
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The bottom hole needs to be filled to make the vacuum system operate properly. Fill it with the appropriate wire size. I use about a 5/16" long piece of aluminum wire and JB weld.
Yes. Kaddies come with 55 idles and 130 mains. I would start from there. You might try and run what you have in it, but it would be better to run a little rich than a little lean. Too lean and you'll run too hot.
| atye wrote: |
| So, all I have to do is to insert a vacuum fitting in that spot? No other mods? I have a Mallory Unilite w/vac adv and would love to use it with these carbs. |
Make sure that hole is filled in the corresponding throttle body. Otherwise it will have a TON of advance when the throttles are all the way closed, making idle impossible.
If you haven't rebuilt your carbs yet, and I'm assuming you have them apart already since you know what main jet it is, make darn sure those check balls are under the accelerator pump squirt tubes. They'll never run right without them. About half of the sets I take apart (which is a lot of them), are missing one or more of those balls. The PO's must not know they're in there when they take everything apart!
Also...
If your throttle bodies are loose, now's the time to fix them!
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burdpete
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Joined: October 24, 2007
Posts: 544
Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 2:47 pm Post subject: |
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| DarthWeber wrote: |
Burdpete, your jetting is close to what came stock on the Kadrons, the exception being the main jet was 130. These carbs came jetted for stock 1600's but each motor is a little different in what it needs for fuel. It should be very close though so bolt them on and give it a try. You may want to check out AJ Sims site as he has a lot of info on tuning Kadrons as well as vacuum advance distributors for them.
http://www.lowbugget.com/main_page.html
Atye, I believe the picture shows where the vacuum is drawn from to provide vacuum at the port for an SVDA distributor. |
Thanks for the help. I actually just got it running today and it seems to run pretty good. I will drive it a few miles and see what happens.
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Max Welton
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57baja
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Joined: April 15, 2008
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Location: Kaddie Shack Temple City
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| Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 6:38 pm Post subject: |
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To add to what Max was saying... I buy mine at OSH, actually. 5/32" OD tubing works perfectly. I've found it best to drill a real tiny hole in the plug, rather than drilling it out with a 5/32" drill bit. Then I use a drywall screw to screw into the little plug, and then pop it out like using a slide hammer to pull a dent. The 5/16" tubing works PERFECTLY in the hole that's in the carburetor body. It's a perfect press fit, if you tap it in with a hammer. I still use JB Weld to seal around it, but it's probably not really even necessary.
Watch that hole, too. When you're drilling it, it's real easy to bugger it up. I've seen quite a few ruined bodies, and I've ALMOST ruined a few of them myself. You'd think drilling a hole is pretty simple, but when you have dissimilar metals and your drill bit starts getting a little cock-eyed, things can go wrong rather easily. That's another reason to use the drywall screw method. Hope that helps!
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Last edited by 57baja on Sat Mar 27, 2010 1:26 am; edited 1 time in total |
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57baja
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Max Welton
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ortak
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Joined: January 11, 2008
Posts: 155
Location: Fountain Inn, SC
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| Posted: Sun May 12, 2013 12:14 pm Post subject: |
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By the bottom hole you did mean the hole closest to the manifold and not the carb, right. How did you ever come up with this?
| 57baja wrote: |
| atye wrote: |
Max,
What is this image showing?
|
The bottom hole needs to be filled to make the vacuum system operate properly. Fill it with the appropriate wire size. I use about a 5/16" long piece of aluminum wire and JB weld.
Yes. Kaddies come with 55 idles and 130 mains. I would start from there. You might try and run what you have in it, but it would be better to run a little rich than a little lean. Too lean and you'll run too hot.
| atye wrote: |
| So, all I have to do is to insert a vacuum fitting in that spot? No other mods? I have a Mallory Unilite w/vac adv and would love to use it with these carbs. |
Make sure that hole is filled in the corresponding throttle body. Otherwise it will have a TON of advance when the throttles are all the way closed, making idle impossible.
If you haven't rebuilt your carbs yet, and I'm assuming you have them apart already since you know what main jet it is, make darn sure those check balls are under the accelerator pump squirt tubes. They'll never run right without them. About half of the sets I take apart (which is a lot of them), are missing one or more of those balls. The PO's must not know they're in there when they take everything apart!
Also...
If your throttle bodies are loose, now's the time to fix them! |
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suicidedoordavid
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Joined: July 07, 2004
Posts: 149
Location: 10.34 miles WEST of New Orleans
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| Posted: Fri Dec 13, 2013 9:24 pm Post subject: |
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| ortak wrote: |
By the bottom hole you did mean the hole closest to the manifold and not the carb, right. How did you ever come up with this?
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hope this helps, as i'm about to install a vacumn tube in my set of kadrons.
http://www.volksrods.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13240
| Quote: |
| As for the port vacuum, that is fairly easy to get done yourself. Looking at the driver side carb from idle adjustment screw side, you'll see two plugged orifices to the left side, stacked on top of the other. Both are plumbed into the same vacuum passage, but the top one has the right size orifice to accept a brass pipe from an old PICT carb you probably have lying around. Remove the carb and with a 1/16 drill bit, preferably in a cordless drill that will allow you drill a slow rate and a low torque setting drill a hole thru the middle of the brass plug. It is only about a 1/4 deep so take your time and be carefull as you feel the bit reach the end of the plug. After you have the 1/16 hole drilled, use a small screw with a thread larger than the 1/16 hole and a screw driver to screw it in. The threads will catch after a 1/4 turn or so ( I used a drywall screw) and an additional turn will spin/break the plug free, use a pair of pliers to pull the thread-locked screw and plug out. Half-way done. In the throttle body there are several small holes, pre-drilled. There are a group of three, and a group of two. We are concerned with the group of two, notice that one is located above and one below the closed butterfly valve. Plug the one below the valve, that is manifold vacuum, we want ported carb vac. Use a little JB quick to fill it in, not much is needed, if you cram to much in there, you may plug the upper hole from the back and really be buggered (i'm not a brit, but i do like to say buggered.) Done. Took me ten minutes. The shops will drill the actuall throttle-body from the outside and make a new small hole at the same level as the existing port hole we are using here. Same readings...quicker method, but requires a jig so as not to drill in the wrong place a hit passage from another circuit or a void. That'll save you some cash and time to wait on the throttlebody to be shipped. I have read that a stoc SVDA dizzy will work,...just not as well one set for the Kad's vacuum. The money you save with this procedure makes the $140 dizzy from the shop a better seeming deal. Down with the 009. |
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Firehawk
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Joined: December 24, 2003
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Location: Denver
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| Posted: Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:05 pm Post subject: |
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I was curious, back up to the post about the check balls. Are the only way the check ball/balls could come out are if you take the squirter tubes out? Is there another place on Kads that have a check ball in then that could come out accidentally?
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ortak
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| Posted: Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:13 pm Post subject: |
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There are only two check balls in the carb. One for accel pump and nod under the squirter tube. The squirter tube ball is held in place by a small brass pin and the accel pump ball had a brass plug that requires a metric bolt to be screwed into it so it can be pulled out.
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Firehawk
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| Posted: Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:36 pm Post subject: |
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Cool thanks. So it sounds like you know it if you access them. I just had one of mine apart to replace a sticky needle valve. You guys had me all paranoid I could have lost a check valve without knowing it.
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evilphoton
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Location: San Diego, CA
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| Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 1:18 pm Post subject: |
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Hello
I did all these things... plugged the bottom hole, removed the plugs in the carb bodies, put in the 5/32" tube, etc. and i'm only getting about 5in/hg when I blip the throttle at idle, this isn't enough to move my dvda.
The throttle shafts are in very "tight". engine, holds an idle very well, the idle mixture screws are out about a turn and a quarter.
Am I using the wrong distributor for this to work? When I had the 34/3 on, it developed just a tad more vacuum maybe 7 in/hg. when i hook the vacuum pump up to the distributor, it takes between 12 and 15 in/hg to pull the plate through most of the advance. at one point I think i saw specs on here for the various distributors and what the vacuum signal they required, but I can't find that now - if someone can point me there it could help. i don't know if my distributor "stiff" (I've had it apart and cleaned/lubed it, it's completely free...) or if the carbs just aren't pulling enough vacuum.
any thoughts appreciated...
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_search.php?search_author=evilphoton
here's my gallery of the process. the hole below the throttle plate is the one that is plugged. at idle, there is zero vacuum on my gauge, only when the throttle is opened is there a signal.
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