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djkeev
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kamzcab86
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 Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2024 9:56 am Post subject: Re: Throttle Cable which one to use? |
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| djkeev wrote: |
Now, I am overall wary of new parts, their quality is suspect, their rubber is most often of low quality.
The used cable is OE quality and in good shape. I am concerned that the rubber boots may have aged and won't hold up.
What choice would you make? |
Either way is a gamble. Flip a coin?
That said, I have a new one in my parts stash inside the van, waiting for the day the original goes bust... probably on a road trip, 1500 miles from home. So, regardless of which one you install, put the other in your travelling spare parts bin to be prepared for the potential inevitable.
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djkeev
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| Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2024 10:34 am Post subject: Re: Throttle Cable which one to use? |
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Mine didn't break or stop functioning in any way.
The reason that I'm replacing it is two fold.
#1 the plastic bracket that screws to the frame is broken. It doesn't seem to have affected operation but really? I don't know for sure.
I can surmise that the broken mount may hinder the ability to have full throttle capability.
I can see that the throttle housing may slide rather than the actual cable inside of it?
#2 the ball socket that snaps onto the linkage at the transmission was rusted on solid!
The ball still rotated in the cup but the snap ring in the cup had rusted solid and it was not going to unclip.
Rather than risk breaking the ball off of the lever and seeing the broken bracket, I opted to simply cut the cable at the ball to get the transmission out.
I'll deal with the rusted cup on the bench later.
I could have saved the old cable and made a new bracket, but that rusted cup was a deal breaker knowing I had a new one and good used one on hand.
I'll for sure carry a spare but really doubt it will ever be needed. However if it ever breaks...... you're not going anywhere!
New Automatic throttle cables had been out of stock...... back ordered for quite awhile.
I snagged the Bus Lab one when I saw it.
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djkeev
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Joined: September 30, 2007
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Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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djkeev
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Joined: September 30, 2007
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Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2024 3:17 pm Post subject: Re: Throttle Cable which one to use? |
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This photo is mainly so I remember which hole through the frame was used for the throttle cable.
Things look helter skelter because my engine and transmission are out and in the shop.
The throttle cable uses the hole to the left, on the other side it is an oval shape to allow the cable to adjust to where it lands on the transmission mount.
Here is my broken frame mount. It is just a plastic tab which could have been fixed if need be.
You can also see the piece of hose that seals the frame mount to the throttle cable guide tube.
The guide tube is not unlike the plastic fuel line VW used from the filter back or to the fuel return nipple on the tank.
The tube goes from the frame mount, up over the fuel tank and connects to the cover for the accelerator pedal linkage.
This guide tube makes replacing the cable super easy!
Step one is drop the spare tire carrier and pull the spare out.
If you slither into the clam shell and look up below the driver you will see a narrow plastic cover, my finger is pointing at the cover.....
Another view of the plastic cover, the white tube at the top of the photo ends at a rubber boot going into the cover.
There aren't any clips holding the tube to the cover, just the rubber boot, and my boot has seen better days!
Four Phillips head screws hold on the the plastic cover, once the screws are removed you can wiggle and slide the cover up the white tube a bit revealing the linkage below the gas pedal.
For some reason this photo is a mirror image of reality but the accelerator cable has a round metal end on it. This ends slips into a pivot clamp and is held in place by a bolt with an 8mm head.
Another photo with a better view of the cover and cable .....
The 8mm headed bolt is quite tight. You must hold the steel cable end from rotating with a pair of pliers as you loosen it.
Once loose go back to the rear and just pull the cable out of the guide tube.
The clamping end will slip out with zero issues.....
Comparing the new cable to the one I took out, they are absolutely identical.
I decided to install the new cable.
Just an FYI the white tube on both the old and new cable isn't the cable but an inner guide tube to keep the cable clean.
Here is the broken tab on the old cable....
A 10mm socket and a 10mm wrench and off it comes. Mine was quite rusty, I really expected it to break, so much so that I used a six point socket on the head.
But it unscrewed without any issue at all.....
It was then a simple matter of mounting the new cable bracket. The guide tube may seem a tad short but it floats around, just pull on it a bit or if long push on it until you can join the hose to the mounting bracket and the tube.
Now go back to the front and slip the steel end into the pivot bracket. I slid the new cable in about the same distance as the old one was.
I tightened the holding bolt but didn't screw the cover on just yet.
The cable will need to be adjusted once it is hooked onto the transmission lever.
Sadly, I don't have an engine or transmission right now so I slid the spare back in and placed the screws in a baggie so I don't lose them.
This will be a future addition to this thread.
Here are the instructions on how to adjust the cable anyway.......
And my cable waiting for a transmission ......
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djkeev
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djkeev
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Joined: September 30, 2007
Posts: 32988
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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djkeev
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Joined: September 30, 2007
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Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Sun Mar 17, 2024 3:56 pm Post subject: Re: How To Replace Automatic Throttle Cable |
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How did I adjust my throttle cable?
#1) I removed the down shift over ride spring on the rod at the throttle body......
#2) I got a 15mm box wrench, slipped the box end on the nut and felt the kick down detent as I turned the wrench clockwise.
Once I knew what the detent was, I got a ZipTie and using the wrench box nd I rotated it fully clockwise, took a zip tie and wrapped it around the radiator hose and the wrench and zipped it up tight.
This was WAY EASIER than trying to thread the zip tie through the holes in the bracket and around the operating lever.
I now have the throttle lever held immobile in full throttle AND kick down.
#3) With the kick down detent fully held in place I went up front to the pedal area. Drop the spare, remove plastic cover on the pedal linkage and loosen the cable clamp nut.
I used small needle nose vice grips to hold the unit steady and an 8mm wrench to loosen the clamp bolt.
#4) the gas pedal needs to be fully depressed. If you have a helper to push it down and hold it down? Great! ......
i had no helper so I weighed it down. A rock, a brick or anything heavy that will hold the pedal down.
I made railroad rail bookends when I was in High School Metal shop 50 some years ago, it worked perfectly with a little make do prop.
NOTE: Do make sure the pedal travel stop (on the top end of the pedal) is clear of any padding, sound deadening, carpet or floor mats.
This is an imperfect adjustment system, the pedal cover hangs on the cable and you are just pulling on the cable taking out the slack in the wire.
I knew that I wouldn't be able to get it perfectly taut so I placed a 10mm nut under the pedal stop.
This nut holds the pedal off the floor about 3/8" or so.
Once the cable clamp was tight, the nut removed and the pedal cover put back in place, it proved to work out perfect! The pedal stop just kisses the floor when fully depressed.
Carpet reinstalled, the entire pedal has clear travel.....
The initial adjustment of the gas pedal and the kick down lever is complete.
At full pedal travel down the kick down lever moves 100% of its travel.
You can feel the detent engage as you push down the pedal.
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537
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djkeev
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Joined: September 30, 2007
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Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Sun Mar 17, 2024 8:07 pm Post subject: Re: How To Replace Automatic Throttle Cable |
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Time to adjust the throttle valve movement.
Put the Spring back on.
Remove the intake boot so you can see the butterfly in the throttle body.
At pedal travel BEFORE the detent you want full or very close to full butterfly movement open.
Easier said than done.
If you have a good helper who can hold the pedal steady just before the detent, life will be easier.
Not having a helper......
I once again used the 15mm wrench and a ZipTie only this time held the lever just before the detent instead of fully depressed into the detent.
Now adjust the rod length by rotating the threaded portion in or out.
You do NOT want spring compression, just full open butterfly.
It is a bit finicky but once you get it in adjustment, lock the 10mm jam nut and remove the Zip Tie and wrench.
Put the intake boot back on...... you're done.
Time for a test drive.
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537
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