engine install disaster and now I need a new shroud

[crankbait09]

I have never had so many problems with installing these engines as I have this time around. They usually go in rather easily. For some reason, on my 63, it has taken me 3 hours, and I still failed. I could not figure out what was going on. Reset the engine on the jack numerous times, trying to figure out where I was going wrong. Could get the bottom bolts lined up with the holes in the transmission, but I could not push the top of the engine into place for the life of me. It wasn't hitting the pulley, generator, nothing.........except for those SOB's that are attached to the exhaust, the connector pipes. Those were hitting the underside of the apron and I didn't even think of those being the issue. I looked everywhere. SO I got pissed, tore those effers out just to get the engine into place. Figured I'd put them back in once all said and done. I believe those can be installed with the engine in the vehicle.

got them out of the way, and the two clam shell pieces that those snap into fell apart. So I spent time trying to pry those tabs up that clamp the shell together, that took awhile. it was kinda difficult since those clam shells flop around on the exhaust pipe. got those together, got the engine back into place, and tried wiggling the engine into place.

As I was doing that, the fresh air tube connectors that are on the shroud broke off. The spot welds gave out, and the tin pieces broke. good grief.

during all this, I was using the tail pipes to guide the engine so that it was straight. one of the support brackets on the exhaust, right in front of the tail pipe, broke. well I should say, the spot welds that held it to the pipe came loose. I'm gonna see if my neighbor can do a spot welds on that bracket to make it secure. right now, it runs on the exhaust and screeches, since it's metal on metal.

one thing after another.

Here is a picture of my engine, out of the car. This is how it sits right now. I am after an original shroud to replace the one I have (non dog house). I would prefer to keep it as close to original as I can. Since I have an alternator, and other non original parts to the '63, is there anything I need to be aware of when buying a new one?
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1963 Ragtop

[crankbait09]

I believe this shroud is identical to the one I have

https://www.ebay.com/itm/234560462899?chn=ps&m...IhBiyWK0Ps
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1963 Ragtop

[zerotofifty]

I like to remove the aircleaner, distributor cap (or sometime the whole distributor) disconnect the spark plug wires from the plugs, and even sometimes remove the generator pulley and nut. I remove the heater tubes from the tins, and remove the tin breast plate, and remove the carb and throttle cable tube for engine removal and install. I also protect the intake manifold preheater tube ends with masking tape when removing or installing the breast plate tin when in the engine bay.

removal of all that is not 100 needed, but it gives me a bit more working room. I use a floor jack, and place the jack just a bit forward of the oil sump plate, to get the center of gravity fairly balanced, note the flywheel is heavy end.

I dont know what you had removed, but I have found that doing these things can help a lot. some cars with body damage, a replacement apron can be a real bear to work on in regards to engine removal or install.

I just did my clutch not too long ago, then just two weeks ago had to pull the engine again as I found bearing bits in the oil. probably have less than 500 miles between the two engine pulls.

I must say it was a lot easier when I was young.

anyway good luck with a new fan house, If you got a welder friend maybe that heater snoat can be welded back in place?
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Give peace a chance. No American war with Russia!

[Busstom]

[indianpeaksjoe]

Oh boy, at this point if I have to buy a part and it is cheap enough, I just buy two because I know something is going to go awry.

You are in a safe space
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Adventures in owning a 66 beetle

[Cusser]

Why can't you pop-rivet the shroud outlet back on? Use some galvanized steel sheeting and paint too? Your engine is nice but not a "show" engine, who would care?

I oftentimes install the engine first, then the exhaust.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[splitjunkie]

Is your car an early '63 or a late '63?

Early ones were stale air heat and late ones were fresh air heat.

The front lower firewall where the seal mounts was modified when they introduced the fresh air heating system because of the size of the heater boxes on the front (flywheel end) of the engine.

If your car is an early car that someone installed a fresh air engine into, you will have a very difficult time installing your engine without removing the heater boxes.

EDIT: I looked more closely and realized your engine is a 1300/1500/1600. The original was a 1200 40hp which was a narrower engine. installing the engine is going to be a challenge regardless if your '63 was a stale air or fresh air car. If it was a stale air car, it will be harder for sure.

It can be done but will involve a lot more manipulating and cursing to get the engine installed. See my later post to show the changed in the front seal plate shape for the different engines.
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Chris

You know, a lot of these scratches will buff right out... Jerry Seinfeld

[PWB]

[richparker]

[DerrickfromNC1]

I had to remove and reinstall a loaner engine 3 times over the last 2 months to address numerous oil leaks(3 rear seals, and all pushrod tubes). I found it goes much more smoothly when the car is level(on 4 jackstands).

[zerotofifty]

[splitjunkie]

The switchover from stale to fresh air heat was Dec '62

The front seal firewall plate slopes down at the end. Shape is almost circular
36hp

Slightly wider for the 40hp. Ends slope up slightly to clear the slightly larger 40 hp stale air heater boxes but still a gentle circular shape at ends.

'62 40 hp stale air

Slight modification to slope the ends up a small amount to allow clearance for fresh air heater boxes. Last few inches at the ends closer to vertical shape
'65 40hp fresh air

Modified for wider 1300/1500/1600 engine. Ends sloped up further.

1300/1500/1600 fresh air

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Chris

You know, a lot of these scratches will buff right out... Jerry Seinfeld

[richparker]

^Thanks! When I get home I’ll look at what I have. Appreciate it!
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’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’63 Deluxe Build

[splitjunkie]

If you are putting a 1500/1600 engine in a 36hp car the heater boxes pretty much have to come off.

A 40hp stale air car will probably require the same.

A 40hp fresh air car will work, but will be a bit harder than a car that originally had 1300/1500/1600 engine.


I had a '60 which was originally a 36hp car but had a 40hp fresh air engine in it. I had to cut part of the seal plate to get the engine in with the heater boxes installed. It was a major pain to get the engine installed even doing this. I stole the front seal plate out of a '69 and welded it in and all was well. A 40 hp engine slipped right in and a 1300/1500/1600 went in easily as it would have in a '66 or later car.
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Chris

You know, a lot of these scratches will buff right out... Jerry Seinfeld

[Root_Werks]

What used to get me on engine installs was lining up the clutch disc teeth to the output shaft. I'd wrestle with the engine that just refused to go in that last 1/2" even with wrench on pully moving a little back and forth. Finally got the idea to put in gear, set e-brake. Move crank pulley just a little and "thump" in goes the engine.

-Dan
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When I set my timing, why do I flush, then take a pee?

[glutamodo]

[rcooled]

[Root_Werks]

[Eric&Barb]