Valve clearance?

[VolkswagenVMan]

I set mine at .004", I do check mine at each oil change. If you check them regularly it does not take anytime as only one valve may need to be touched up! I get 3 adjustments out of a set of valve cover gaskets.
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[Juanito84]

I'm rebuilding and restoring my engine back to stock and would like to use a .004" valve lash. I plan on starting with a .006" initially in case it shrinks due to break in. When I'm sure it's not going to keep shrinking (at least not quickly) from wear, I want to check the valve lash hot to see how much it actually shrinks due to heat. If it shrinks .001" to .002" would .004" be best, and if it shrinks .003" to .004" would .006" be best? Or would it be ok to set it cold at .004 knowing it will shrink .003" leaving only .001" left?
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[72krautrod13]

I have a 72 1600, when I bought 8 months ago I set them at .006 and ran fine. it sat for a couple months with bad battery. after that it has ran a little choppy. I adjusted again to .006 and it'll start but idle very choppy, wait a day and re adjust to .004 still no change. Im quite novice and think maybe the valves or springs are screwed? I'm fed up what do y'all think

[FeelthySanchez]

You've replied to a 5 year old stale post.
Forget about .004" valve lash - set them at SIX THOUSANDTHS or else set yourself a date to swallow an exhaust valve.
We could start a pool

No mention of a clean carb or plugs - what condition are they in?
There is very likely some corrosion on the secondary (plug) wires, cap terminals & rotor after sitting for a few months. Easy to check & clean-up.
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[Ricksurfin]

On a stock engine, in reality, what do you really have to gain by going .004 over .006? I’d much rather have the better extra insurance with the bigger gap then the extremely slight performance gain and maybe a little quieter engine. I always err towards longevity.

[pernest]

I'm confused --- shouldn't the feeler .006 slip in but with a little effort, .007 slip in with ease and .005 not slip in even with effort.

[ashman40]

[pernest]

You are correct ashman40. Sorry, must have had a senior moment.

[boxer74]

[Meiang]

0.004 inches - always done this. 500,000 miles later.

Having said that how many people have valve trains in good condition.

[Zundfolge1432]

VW said .006 and this superseded all previous numbers given, why? To account for lazy owners and to alleviate the dreaded#3 dropped exhaust valve problem. It works but some aftermarket cams give conflicting numbers too. In my experience I’ve gone with .006 exhaust and .004 intake, why? Because intake valve is cooled by fuel air mixture. Doing it this way makes slightly quieter running. Single port non doghouse 1970 and before we set #3 exhaust at .007 to account for hotter running #3 cylinder because of oil cooler placement. You can burn a valve in about 1500 miles and then the fun begins. Be smart don’t run your car hot and you won’t have a problem

[carmangary]

I happened to run across this interesting old thread so wanted to add some info.

I have an official VW service manual that I obtained many years ago. The title is "Workshop Manual Kafer 1989-2004" I can't remember how I got it but I remember reading in it that it called for different specs for the intake and exhaust valves. I think it was .04 and .06 but I can't remember which was which. I pulled out this manual to find it this morning but couldn't find it.

I bought my engine new from aircooled.net. It is one of the mexi-beetle engines. I mentioned the valve specs to John Connelly (I think that is his name, the owner of aircooled.net) and he kind of got mad at me for asking about it and told me the valves have to be adjusted to .06, no if, ands, or buts. I thought it was kind of funny. That was probably 20 years ago.

The Kafer manual has some interesting modern info different from the Bentley manuals. For example, it tells how to use a vacuum guage to properly adjusted the fine screw that touches the choke step plate. It also mentions using a CO meter for adjusting the mixture screw instead of adjusting it based on the engine speeding up and slowing down. I don't have a CO meter so I don't use that method but I do use a vacuum meter to adjust the choke screw. FYI, the procedure is to wait until the engine warms up, connect a vacuum meter to the advance port, screw the screw in until you see vacuum on the guage, back out until you see 0 vacuum, then turn it screw in 1/4 turn.

[bsairhead]

I go .006. I would rather hear them than smell them. Better yet go chromoly and leave the gauges in the tool box.

[vamram]

I'm replacing the cam on my '74 Super w/a CB 2280. The spec card they ship with it states to set the valve lash for the exhaust valves to .004. Any thoughts on that...?
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[KTPhil]

My engine builder, who is extremely good, recommends .004 to .005. I have always done .006, like most manuals recommended since the short stud heads were introduced 60 years ago.

I still go with .006 on exhaust, but lean towards .004- .005 on the intakes, and religiously check them every 3000 miles or less.

I agree the blanket .006 was a recommendation that allowed for less stringent maintenance and a bit more noise, plus some performance loss. But if you are always on time with valve adjustments, the smaller gaps make sense.

To each his own.
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[Chinaclipper]

I was 19 years old, starting on my way back on the interstate from my trip to Eugene, Oregon. I had just left Ventura, CA earlier that week, and was looking forward to finally getting home in my Marina blue 1971 VW. It was 6:00 AM, and I had just finished asking the Almighty for a safe trip home, please, and finished with an "Amen", and sure enough, I was answered with a loud bang and a jolt, and the motor went stone cold.

I will never forget that sinking feeling as I looked into the rear view and saw engine parts being shed all over the interstate from my blown motor.

Yup, I had sucked a valve in one of the cylinders, sure enuff', ol' number three. For the first time in my life, I hitch-hiked back to town, and then found a mechanic to work on the car. Well, 2 days and $425 dollars later, installed was a used but serviceable bottom end, a case, and (L) head in my 1600. He, like me, set the valves at .006". I remember, because I asked him. "I set all ACVW engines at .006", he said...Good enough for me.

I got home-IIRC, I made it in one long drive, non stop except for gas. About hit a deer once, but I made it safe.
Dad had given my the credit card, for that "just in case" happenstance. Well....
I had to pay him back every cent, plus interest.
It was 1976.
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[glutamodo]

By the way, VW "retconned" the Valve Adjustment specification around the start of Model Year 1972. VW "dumbed down" the owner's manual that year and moved some of that in a maintenance book they sold for extra. This book was prepared around the time of the specification change, and they had to insert an Errata notiation. The date on that book was 09/71.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/72bug_guide.php

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