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ashman40
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007
Posts: 16485
Location: North Florida, USA
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 Posted: Sat May 03, 2025 2:04 pm Post subject: Re: Stumble Coming to a Stop |
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| Thehate916 wrote: |
The float seems to be moving freely... |
The black U-clip at the top of the pic which holds the float pin down is installed backwards. Lift it up and rotate 180deg and drop it back in place.
The float and inlet valve should maintain the fuel level in the bowl at 3/4" (19mm) from the top of the bowl. You mention the bowl was full but didn't specify the "level of the fuel". Any higher than 3/4" from the top and you have a problem with the float/inlet valve control.
As installed in your pic, the "U" bend of the clip will limit the float movement preventing it from rising all the way up; in turn preventing the float from applying pressure on the pin in the inlet valve to stop fuel flow. After some time the fuel level in the bowl will get too high and start to flood the intake. It would be most noticeable after driving at speed and then coming to a stop. The at speed demand of the engine will mask the problem but the closing of the throttle will make the excess fuel flowing down the carb flood the engine. This may be what you are seeing in your videos. It takes time for the bowl it fill and start flowing down the carb.
If the engine stalling is repeatable... run the engine with air cleaner off. Look down into the carb throat (choke fully open). You should NOT "see" any fuel. Idle fuel flow happens BELOW the closed throttle plate at the bottom of the carb. If you see ANY fuel flowing and dripping onto the closed throttle plate... your bowl is over flowing.
Next time the engine dies... hold the accelerator pedal to the floor (do not pump at all) and crank the engine. 10sec of cranking this way should clear any excess fuel from the cylinders and the engine should start up. Then you can release the pedal. This will confirm you have a flooded engine. If cranking with the pedal down does not start the engine (give it a few attemps, without lifting the pedal) you have ruled out a flooding problem.
| Thehate916 wrote: |
| Edit: I static timed it at 7.5 btdc and was able to get it running again, but it dies like before. |
Was the timing off? I thought you had already static timed it to 7.5BTDC. Why did the timing change? Did you check your point gap? Changes to point gap will cause timing changes? Confirm how you have set your points/dwell.
What idle RPMs are you running? It seems rather high to me. Is the choke still ON?
Once the engine is running and warmed up (choke off) set the idle timing to 950rpm or less.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road  }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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Thehate916
Samba Member
Joined: February 04, 2016
Posts: 55
Location: Sacramento, CA
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| Posted: Mon May 05, 2025 10:27 am Post subject: Re: Stumble Coming to a Stop |
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| ashman40 wrote: |
| Thehate916 wrote: |
The float seems to be moving freely... |
The black U-clip at the top of the pic which holds the float pin down is installed backwards. Lift it up and rotate 180deg and drop it back in place.
The float and inlet valve should maintain the fuel level in the bowl at 3/4" (19mm) from the top of the bowl. You mention the bowl was full but didn't specify the "level of the fuel". Any higher than 3/4" from the top and you have a problem with the float/inlet valve control.
As installed in your pic, the "U" bend of the clip will limit the float movement preventing it from rising all the way up; in turn preventing the float from applying pressure on the pin in the inlet valve to stop fuel flow. After some time the fuel level in the bowl will get too high and start to flood the intake. It would be most noticeable after driving at speed and then coming to a stop. The at speed demand of the engine will mask the problem but the closing of the throttle will make the excess fuel flowing down the carb flood the engine. This may be what you are seeing in your videos. It takes time for the bowl it fill and start flowing down the carb.
If the engine stalling is repeatable... run the engine with air cleaner off. Look down into the carb throat (choke fully open). You should NOT "see" any fuel. Idle fuel flow happens BELOW the closed throttle plate at the bottom of the carb. If you see ANY fuel flowing and dripping onto the closed throttle plate... your bowl is over flowing.
Next time the engine dies... hold the accelerator pedal to the floor (do not pump at all) and crank the engine. 10sec of cranking this way should clear any excess fuel from the cylinders and the engine should start up. Then you can release the pedal. This will confirm you have a flooded engine. If cranking with the pedal down does not start the engine (give it a few attemps, without lifting the pedal) you have ruled out a flooding problem.
| Thehate916 wrote: |
| Edit: I static timed it at 7.5 btdc and was able to get it running again, but it dies like before. |
Was the timing off? I thought you had already static timed it to 7.5BTDC. Why did the timing change? Did you check your point gap? Changes to point gap will cause timing changes? Confirm how you have set your points/dwell.
What idle RPMs are you running? It seems rather high to me. Is the choke still ON?
Once the engine is running and warmed up (choke off) set the idle timing to 950rpm or less. |
I will the black clip spun around thank you!! I gave it a bit more timing since I changed the distributor to see if that was the issue and went back to the 009. Even with the pedal floored and cranking the car will not start after dying. I will confirm points on the SVDA when it goes back in but I know the 009 has it set correctly. The idle was set correctly when the problem began but I was adjusting the carb to see if the a/f was the issue. Thank you for the help!
Here is a link to some engine pics as requested
https://imgur.com/a/e78zvds
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Thehate916
Samba Member
Joined: February 04, 2016
Posts: 55
Location: Sacramento, CA
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| Posted: Mon May 05, 2025 10:29 am Post subject: Re: Stumble Coming to a Stop |
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[quote="Thehate916"]
| ashman40 wrote: |
| Thehate916 wrote: |
The float seems to be moving freely... |
The black U-clip at the top of the pic which holds the float pin down is installed backwards. Lift it up and rotate 180deg and drop it back in place.
The float and inlet valve should maintain the fuel level in the bowl at 3/4" (19mm) from the top of the bowl. You mention the bowl was full but didn't specify the "level of the fuel". Any higher than 3/4" from the top and you have a problem with the float/inlet valve control.
As installed in your pic, the "U" bend of the clip will limit the float movement preventing it from rising all the way up; in turn preventing the float from applying pressure on the pin in the inlet valve to stop fuel flow. After some time the fuel level in the bowl will get too high and start to flood the intake. It would be most noticeable after driving at speed and then coming to a stop. The at speed demand of the engine will mask the problem but the closing of the throttle will make the excess fuel flowing down the carb flood the engine. This may be what you are seeing in your videos. It takes time for the bowl it fill and start flowing down the carb.
If the engine stalling is repeatable... run the engine with air cleaner off. Look down into the carb throat (choke fully open). You should NOT "see" any fuel. Idle fuel flow happens BELOW the closed throttle plate at the bottom of the carb. If you see ANY fuel flowing and dripping onto the closed throttle plate... your bowl is over flowing.
Next time the engine dies... hold the accelerator pedal to the floor (do not pump at all) and crank the engine. 10sec of cranking this way should clear any excess fuel from the cylinders and the engine should start up. Then you can release the pedal. This will confirm you have a flooded engine. If cranking with the pedal down does not start the engine (give it a few attemps, without lifting the pedal) you have ruled out a flooding problem.
| Thehate916 wrote: |
| Edit: I static timed it at 7.5 btdc and was able to get it running again, but it dies like before. |
Was the timing off? I thought you had already static timed it to 7.5BTDC. Why did the timing change? Did you check your point gap? Changes to point gap will cause timing changes? Confirm how you have set your points/dwell.
What idle RPMs are you running? It seems rather high to me. Is the choke still ON?
Once the engine is running and warmed up (choke off) set the idle timing to 950rpm or less. |
I will the black clip spun around thank you!! I gave it a bit more timing since I changed the distributor to see if that was the issue and went back to the 009. Even with the pedal floored and cranking the car will not start after dying. I will confirm points on the SVDA when it goes back in but I know the 009 has it set correctly. The idle was set correctly when the problem began but I was adjusting the carb to see if the a/f was the issue. Thank you for the help!
Here is a link to some engine pics as requested
https://imgur.com/a/e78zvds
I also ordered the supposed “good” Chinese carb from cip1 so if I can’t get it figured out before it arrives I’ll throw it on and see if that solves the problem.
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ashman40
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007
Posts: 16485
Location: North Florida, USA
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| Posted: Mon May 05, 2025 11:45 am Post subject: Re: Stumble Coming to a Stop |
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| Thehate916 wrote: |
| I gave it a bit more timing since I changed the distributor to see if that was the issue and went back to the 009. Even with the pedal floored and cranking the car will not start after dying. |
After cranking a while with the pedal held to the floor and the engine still not starting, walk to the engine, remove the air cleaner and look down the carb while you quickly pull on the throttle arm, one time. You should see the accelerator pump squirt fuel down into the intake. Walk back to the driver's seat and crack the throttle open slightly (1/2 pedal) to allow air flow ( no pumping). Crank the engine. It should start up almost immediately since it had no fuel (from cranking with the throttle wide open) and you just squirted a small amount of fuel down into the intake. If there is spark it should start right up.
If it doesn't start start looking at the ignition. Test for a spark at one spark plug by removing the plug wire at one of the spark plugs, install a spare spark plug into the end of the wire and ground the body of the spark plug. Have someone crank the engine while you look for a spark to jump the plug gap. This confirms the coil is sending a spark and it is arcing to ground at the spark plugs. You could repeat the test on each plug wire.
| Thehate916 wrote: |
| I will confirm points on the SVDA when it goes back in but I know the 009 has it set correctly. The idle was set correctly when the problem began but I was adjusting the carb to see if the a/f was the issue. |
No offense, but the above tells me nothing.
I am looking for actual numbers and method. For example, many people believed they set their ignition timing correctly to 5ATDC because the manual states for their model year it should be set to 5ATDC. Be they statically set their timing to 5ATDC when the instructions are for setting it to 5ATDC at idle with the vacuum canister connected. Setting their timing statically to 5ATDC actually results in an idle timing of 17ATDC!!! So even though the ignition timing value was correct their method was wrong.
Another problem is when people set their idle timing to 5ATDC because their car originally came with a DVDA distributor and they have the original crank pulley with the 5ATDC timing notch... But they (or the PO) have swapped their distributor with an SVDA distributor which should be timed closer to 7.5BTDC and idle.
Please provide actual details on points and timing.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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Thehate916
Samba Member
Joined: February 04, 2016
Posts: 55
Location: Sacramento, CA
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| Posted: Mon May 05, 2025 3:46 pm Post subject: Re: Stumble Coming to a Stop |
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| ashman40 wrote: |
| Thehate916 wrote: |
| I gave it a bit more timing since I changed the distributor to see if that was the issue and went back to the 009. Even with the pedal floored and cranking the car will not start after dying. |
After cranking a while with the pedal held to the floor and the engine still not starting, walk to the engine, remove the air cleaner and look down the carb while you quickly pull on the throttle arm, one time. You should see the accelerator pump squirt fuel down into the intake. Walk back to the driver's seat and crack the throttle open slightly (1/2 pedal) to allow air flow ( no pumping). Crank the engine. It should start up almost immediately since it had no fuel (from cranking with the throttle wide open) and you just squirted a small amount of fuel down into the intake. If there is spark it should start right up.
If it doesn't start start looking at the ignition. Test for a spark at one spark plug by removing the plug wire at one of the spark plugs, install a spare spark plug into the end of the wire and ground the body of the spark plug. Have someone crank the engine while you look for a spark to jump the plug gap. This confirms the coil is sending a spark and it is arcing to ground at the spark plugs. You could repeat the test on each plug wire.
| Thehate916 wrote: |
| I will confirm points on the SVDA when it goes back in but I know the 009 has it set correctly. The idle was set correctly when the problem began but I was adjusting the carb to see if the a/f was the issue. |
No offense, but the above tells me nothing.
I am looking for actual numbers and method. For example, many people believed they set their ignition timing correctly to 5ATDC because the manual states for their model year it should be set to 5ATDC. Be they statically set their timing to 5ATDC when the instructions are for setting it to 5ATDC at idle with the vacuum canister connected. Setting their timing statically to 5ATDC actually results in an idle timing of 17ATDC!!! So even though the ignition timing value was correct their method was wrong.
Another problem is when people set their idle timing to 5ATDC because their car originally came with a DVDA distributor and they have the original crank pulley with the 5ATDC timing notch... But they (or the PO) have swapped their distributor with an SVDA distributor which should be timed closer to 7.5BTDC and idle.
Please provide actual details on points and timing. |
Timing was initially set with the 009 to 28 degrees at full advance. This was done with a strobed timing light at 3500rpm. I set it to 7.5btdc because I couldn't remember exactly where it fell at idle with the 009 but knew lots of guys set it at 7.5btdc to get the car running when setting the timing. When the car began having the problem I was running an SVDA and I put the 009 in to see if it was a condenser issue with the SVDA as another poster mentioned above. I'm pretty convinced the issue isn't the ignition at this point because I've had both an SVDA and 009 in the car trying to pinpoint the problem with no difference in ability to run between the 2 distributors.
As for the info you mentioned about the carburetor, I do get a squirt of fuel down the intake with the full operation of the throttle. Regardless of whether I hold, pump, or don't touch the throttle, the issue with starting persists.
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ashman40
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007
Posts: 16485
Location: North Florida, USA
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| Posted: Mon May 05, 2025 4:27 pm Post subject: Re: Stumble Coming to a Stop |
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7.5BTDC is a very reasonable idle ignition timing. ANY ACVW engine should be able to start and idle with a spark being delivered at ~7.5BTDC.
Do both your OO9 and SVDA distributors have points? How have you set the point gap/dwell? 0.016" gap, or better yet, 47-deg +/- 3deg of dwell. Incorrect point gap can create strange behavior. Gap/dwell must be set before ignition timing and then timing re-adjusted afterwards because dwell changes ALWAYS cause ignition timing changes.
You mentioned testing your coil by measuring resistance thru the terminals. Have you tested for spark at the spark plugs? Remove the spark plugs (or use a spare) and ground the body to test. Blue/white spark or orange?
I'm leaning towards ignition because your videos look like someone just turned the ignition key to OFF to shut off the engine. That type of problem is typically ignition/power related. When the carb runs out of fuel there is stuttering as the engine runs out of fuel. And you mentioned checking fuel levels immediately after it stalled and there was fuel in the bowl.
Here is Speedy Jim's page on troubleshooting no start (or engine dying) problems.
https://www.speedyjim.net/htm/eng_strt.htm
Read it thru 2x. Run all the listed tests even if you think you have done them before. It should help you isolate where the problem is.
| Speedy Jim wrote: |
Well, it takes 3 things for an engine to run:
Compression
Air/Fuel mixture
Spark |
Missing/compromise any one of the above and the engine will not run (or not run well).
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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Thehate916
Samba Member
Joined: February 04, 2016
Posts: 55
Location: Sacramento, CA
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| Posted: Tue May 06, 2025 2:01 pm Post subject: Re: Stumble Coming to a Stop |
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| ashman40 wrote: |
7.5BTDC is a very reasonable idle ignition timing. ANY ACVW engine should be able to start and idle with a spark being delivered at ~7.5BTDC.
Do both your OO9 and SVDA distributors have points? How have you set the point gap/dwell? 0.016" gap, or better yet, 47-deg +/- 3deg of dwell. Incorrect point gap can create strange behavior. Gap/dwell must be set before ignition timing and then timing re-adjusted afterwards because dwell changes ALWAYS cause ignition timing changes.
You mentioned testing your coil by measuring resistance thru the terminals. Have you tested for spark at the spark plugs? Remove the spark plugs (or use a spare) and ground the body to test. Blue/white spark or orange?
I'm leaning towards ignition because your videos look like someone just turned the ignition key to OFF to shut off the engine. That type of problem is typically ignition/power related. When the carb runs out of fuel there is stuttering as the engine runs out of fuel. And you mentioned checking fuel levels immediately after it stalled and there was fuel in the bowl.
Here is Speedy Jim's page on troubleshooting no start (or engine dying) problems.
https://www.speedyjim.net/htm/eng_strt.htm
Read it thru 2x. Run all the listed tests even if you think you have done them before. It should help you isolate where the problem is.
| Speedy Jim wrote: |
Well, it takes 3 things for an engine to run:
Compression
Air/Fuel mixture
Spark |
Missing/compromise any one of the above and the engine will not run (or not run well). |
Both the 009 and SVDA have points. When I head out to the garage later today i will ensure that they are set up correctly. I have spare plugs I will set one up and check the spark as well. Thank you for the link I will start working my way through the info there. My apologies for any "newb" questions this Beetle is my first foray into the aircooled world. It has been frustrating at times but I'm having a blast!
I still am suspicious of my coil. I have had both the SVDA and 009 in the car since the problem began, and have had the same "someone turned the key" shut off with both of them. Prior to the shutoff, the car seems to run fine. It actually runs fine just long enough for me to be hopeful that I fixed the problem only for it to shut of shortly after and dampen my spirits. Are there any other tests I should be doing to attempt to confirm the coil is still good?
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Thehate916
Samba Member
Joined: February 04, 2016
Posts: 55
Location: Sacramento, CA
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| Posted: Tue May 06, 2025 2:53 pm Post subject: Re: Stumble Coming to a Stop |
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Quick update: I was able to get it running today and keep it running with the throttle. Even under throttle, it eventually felt starved of fuel and died. There was plenty of fuel in the bowl after it died. It also let out a pretty good backfire just before dying.
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ashman40
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007
Posts: 16485
Location: North Florida, USA
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| Posted: Tue May 06, 2025 3:36 pm Post subject: Re: Stumble Coming to a Stop |
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| Thehate916 wrote: |
| I still am suspicious of my coil. I have had both the SVDA and 009 in the car since the problem began, and have had the same "someone turned the key" shut off with both of them. Prior to the shutoff, the car seems to run fine. |
How old is your ignition coil? They rarely fail as there are no moving parts, but they can fail over time. When coils start to fails they often become temperature or time sensitive. As you run them they start to heat up and when they get hot enough they stop working... until they get a chance to cool down.
Check the color of the spark jumping the plug gap. Strong spark will be blue-white in color. Weak spark will be yellow-orange. If you have sufficient voltage at the (+) terminal and the spark is weak it is likely the coil going bad. Run a jumper from the battery (+) directly to the coil (+) and see if the quality of the spark is different. This would indicate high resistance between the battery and the coil over the stock wiring is causing a loss of current reaching the battery. If the coil is still showing weak spark when directly connected to the battery... try a new coil.
| Thehate916 wrote: |
| It actually runs fine just long enough for me to be hopeful that I fixed the problem only for it to shut of shortly after and dampen my spirits. |
This is when you start to think your car has a personal grudge against you!  
| Thehate916 wrote: |
| Are there any other tests I should be doing to attempt to confirm the coil is still good? |
Read thru Speedy Jim's page. There are some good tests to run there. Report back what you find.
| Thehate916 wrote: |
| Quick update: I was able to get it running today and keep it running with the throttle. Even under throttle, it eventually felt starved of fuel and died. There was plenty of fuel in the bowl after it died. It also let out a pretty good backfire just before dying. |
Are you running the stock mechanical fuel pump? When the engine dies the mechanical fuel pump stops pumping fuel. So if the carb ran out of fuel the fuel bowl will still be empty. With an electric fuel pump, when the engine dies the pump is still running. Maybe the fuel bowl WAS empty when the engine dies but you leave the key in the ON/RUN position for a few more seconds and the electric pump will have time to refill the fuel bowl. By the time you check, the bowl had fuel and you rule out fuel starvation.
Just realize that the carb runs off the fuel in the bowl. The fuel pump + float + inlet valve control the level of fuel in the bowl. As long as there is some fuel in the bowl the engine should idle. As soon as the bowl runs dry the engine will sputter and stall. Try it... warm the engine up. Disconnect the fuel line at the carb inlet. Place the hose in a small fuel tank to catch the fuel. Start the engine. The pump will push fuel into the small tank; your carb will run on the fuel in the bowl. When the bowl runs dry the engine will sputter and die. This is what it sounds like when the carb runs out of fuel. I'm betting it will sound different than your videos. Which suggests it is NOT a fuel starvation problem. Reconnect the hose. Crank the engine for a few seconds to let the bowl refill. Step the pedal 1/2 way to the floor to squirt fuel into the intake. Crank it and it should start up and start running off the fuel in the carb.
If you are interested in tinkering with your car, Beetles are great! You do need to learn about how engines work, but ACVW engines are simple and durable. The Speedy Jim page takes you thru common troubleshooting techniques that mechanics have been using for decades. Fundamentally the principles work for all 4-stroke internal combustion engines, but more modern engines requires more specialized tools. The ACVW engine was designed to me maintained by the owner in their garage using commonly available tools. You can't say the same for most cars made in the last 20yrs.
Stick with it. It is incredibly satisfying when you fix your car and can take it out for a test ride. You know you accomplished something and overcame a challenge.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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Thehate916
Samba Member
Joined: February 04, 2016
Posts: 55
Location: Sacramento, CA
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| Posted: Wed May 07, 2025 3:25 pm Post subject: Re: Stumble Coming to a Stop |
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SOLVED!!!! It turned out to be the coil. I was out running errands and went by my local VW shop (Bugformance in Sacramento) and grabbed a new NGK coil. Installed it, double checked the static timing, and it fired right up and idled without issue. I’ve got a new higher quality SVDA coming that I’ll install but for now the 009 will do!
Thank you all for your help!!
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heimlich 
VWNOS.com
Joined: November 20, 2016
Posts: 7417
Location: Houston, Texas
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| Posted: Wed May 07, 2025 3:27 pm Post subject: Re: Stumble Coming to a Stop |
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New SVDA's aren't always high quality. If it's something like the 123 then yes that would be good.
Take your old coil and check the primary and secondary leads with a multimeter. This is a standard test.
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Thehate916
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Joined: February 04, 2016
Posts: 55
Location: Sacramento, CA
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| Posted: Wed May 07, 2025 3:38 pm Post subject: Re: Stumble Coming to a Stop |
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| heimlich wrote: |
New SVDA's aren't always high quality. If it's something like the 123 then yes that would be good.
Take your old coil and check the primary and secondary leads with a multimeter. This is a standard test. |
I checked the resistance a few days ago and it was within spec, but I watched a few videos that talked about how the secondary coil can be bad without showing a resistance issue with the typical test.
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ashman40
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Joined: February 16, 2007
Posts: 16485
Location: North Florida, USA
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| Posted: Wed May 07, 2025 3:41 pm Post subject: Re: Stumble Coming to a Stop |
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| Thehate916 wrote: |
| SOLVED!!!! It turned out to be the coil. |
Now get out there and driver her like you stole her!
Or like you just fixed a big problem and are gonna driver her until the next problem presents itself and you fix that one too!
| Thehate916 wrote: |
| I was out running errands and went by my local VW shop (Bugformance in Sacramento) and grabbed a new NGK coil. |
I'm not familiar with NGK coils. I'm not doubting their quality... just whether they are the proper type coil for your application. Stock coils (or their replacements) must have at least 3.0ohms of resistance between the two small terminals (+) and (-). This resistance reduced the current that makes it to the points; protecting them from getting burnt.
If you have too little resistance you can opt to add an external ballast resistor to increase the resistance into the proper range (3.0 ~ 4.0 ohms).
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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heimlich
VWNOS.com
Joined: November 20, 2016
Posts: 7417
Location: Houston, Texas
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| Posted: Wed May 07, 2025 3:42 pm Post subject: Re: Stumble Coming to a Stop |
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| Thehate916 wrote: |
| heimlich wrote: |
New SVDA's aren't always high quality. If it's something like the 123 then yes that would be good.
Take your old coil and check the primary and secondary leads with a multimeter. This is a standard test. |
I checked the resistance a few days ago and it was within spec, but I watched a few videos that talked about how the secondary coil can be bad without showing a resistance issue with the typical test. |
Glad to hear you figured it out.
_________________
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Classic Brands. Classic Quality.
Not all parts are made the same. NOS OE/OEM parts made mainly in West Germany, Early Germany, and Early Brazil are where VW produced the best quality parts and best fitting products.
5% Off your order with coupon code: 5%OFF
Restored Distributors Available (<--Click here) |
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Thehate916
Samba Member
Joined: February 04, 2016
Posts: 55
Location: Sacramento, CA
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| Posted: Wed May 07, 2025 3:45 pm Post subject: Re: Stumble Coming to a Stop |
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| ashman40 wrote: |
| Thehate916 wrote: |
| SOLVED!!!! It turned out to be the coil. |
Now get out there and driver her like you stole her!
Or like you just fixed a big problem and are gonna driver her until the next problem presents itself and you fix that one too!
| Thehate916 wrote: |
| I was out running errands and went by my local VW shop (Bugformance in Sacramento) and grabbed a new NGK coil. |
I'm not familiar with NGK coils. I'm not doubting their quality... just whether they are the proper type coil for your application. Stock coils (or their replacements) must have at least 3.0ohms of resistance between the two small terminals (+) and (-). This resistance reduced the current that makes it to the points; protecting them from getting burnt.
If you have too little resistance you can opt to add an external ballast resistor to increase the resistance into the proper range (3.0 ~ 4.0 ohms). |
I actually went in there to buy the Brazilian Bosch equivalent (can't remember the name off the top of my head) but the guy at the counter told me they were having trouble getting them the last couple months. He recommended the NGK and said he had been having good luck with them. This shop is a pretty reputable spot, I still take everything with a grain of salt but this particular employee hasn't steered me wrong in the past.
Thank you for your help on this! You're 100% right, there will inevitably be another problem but that's part of the fun to me of having a project car 
I'll pull the coil and check the resistance next time I'm out in the garage just out of curiosity.
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'68 Beetle project |
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lboos
Samba Member
Joined: November 20, 2015
Posts: 443
Location: Marietta GA.
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| Posted: Tue May 13, 2025 2:27 pm Post subject: Re: Stumble Coming to a Stop |
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| lboos wrote: |
I have the same prob. on my 71, I've run out of ideas, I ordered a carb. from Tim at Volkzbitz on Apr. 30, He seems to be the guru on these carb's. from what I read here. so I will know soon, and let you know.
BTW, my bug is all stock and org. as I can make it. |
Got my volkzbitz carb. in the mail this morning, all my problems are gone, fun to drive again.  |
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 32852
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Tue May 13, 2025 3:03 pm Post subject: Re: Stumble Coming to a Stop |
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| lboos wrote: |
| lboos wrote: |
I have the same prob. on my 71, I've run out of ideas, I ordered a carb. from Tim at Volkzbitz on Apr. 30, He seems to be the guru on these carb's. from what I read here. so I will know soon, and let you know.
BTW, my bug is all stock and org. as I can make it. |
Got my volkzbitz carb. in the mail this morning, all my problems are gone, fun to drive again. |
Great !!!! We'll assume that you actually installed the Volkzbitz carburetor, not just that having the Volkzbitz carburetor "in the house" scared your VW to run right !!!!
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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lboos
Samba Member
Joined: November 20, 2015
Posts: 443
Location: Marietta GA.
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| Posted: Tue May 13, 2025 4:20 pm Post subject: Re: Stumble Coming to a Stop |
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| Cusser wrote: |
[quote="l
Got my volkzbitz carb. in the mail this morning, all my problems are gone, fun to drive again. |
Great !!!! We'll assume that you actually installed the Volkzbitz carburetor, not just that having the Volkzbitz carburetor "in the house" scared your VW to run right !!!!
[/quote]
The mail man brought me the box, I opened it and took out the carb. I then took the carb. out to the garage where I keep my VW, I took the old carb. off and installed the Volkzbitz carb. the VW runs great now
Cusser,
I knew I would need to help you out, no problem  .
When you say 'we'll assume' who else are you speaking for ? |
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