| Author |
Message |
4Gears4Tires
Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2018
Posts: 4140
Location: MD
|
 Posted: Thu May 22, 2025 8:49 am Post subject: Re: A 1991 Syncro L Single knob “Rome” rebuild |
 |
|
Awesome pics and adventures. Really just getting around most of the country in the van!
And yeah, going back and forth between driveshaft and no driveshaft, the driveshaft is noticeably more. Even when it's perfectly laser aligned, it's noticeable IMO immediately after swapping it in. But it should "disappear" after a few days when you get used to it. It might have been a bit smoother if VW had used a center support bearing and another joint in the middle.
_________________
'87 Syncro Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition
'85 Westy Sciuridae Domus Edition |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Ceckert64
Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2015
Posts: 2109
Location: Huntington, WV for now
|
| Posted: Sat May 31, 2025 8:26 pm Post subject: Re: A 1991 Syncro L Single knob “Rome” rebuild |
|
|
| Shonandb wrote: |
I did the 91/92 Ski season in Vail arriving in Nov of 91 and left for Corpus Christie, Texas in June of 92. Good fun but the first few weeks in Vail were tough getting used to the elevation. |
I'm hoping to make one ski season out west after I graduate. Thankfully I never had to many issues with elevation on the trip.
| Xevin wrote: |
| Right on Aiden!! |
 It was a good trip no doubt!
| 4Gears4Tires wrote: |
Awesome pics and adventures. Really just getting around most of the country in the van!
And yeah, going back and forth between driveshaft and no driveshaft, the driveshaft is noticeably more. Even when it's perfectly laser aligned, it's noticeable IMO immediately after swapping it in. But it should "disappear" after a few days when you get used to it. It might have been a bit smoother if VW had used a center support bearing and another joint in the middle. |
Thank you! It was a fun test of the van for sure. Since before I got my first van, I had always wanted to do an out west trip in one so I was happy to get to do that, I'm sure its of many to come.
That's good to know so I don't lose my sanity over a small vibration. It seemed to be getting worse when I pulled it the second time so that was my big worry. I did notice today there was a ton of mud caked inside the rims, maybe that could add to it 
The last few days I started on the engine and transmission pull. It went fairly well, besides the exhaust  The exhaust pipes are all in good shape but the part where they all merge together is seized, the Y pipe (?). I was able to snap both ends of the bolt off since the shaft of the bolt was so seized
My plan is to start on the transmission and get it torn down to see if there is anything else I need. I got new synchros for 3rd and 4th as well as a slider hub, bearings, and a gasket kit.
For the engine, I'm thinking take the least amount apart as possible, it has zero oil leaks and the headgasket is the only leak. I found today where the gasket was split that caused the leak. I'm tempted to just remove that head and only do that since everything on the other side is fine. That may be a dumb idea though 
I drained the gear oil and I didn't find many shavings after 6-7k miles, I'd assume some were trapped when I originally changed oil. Also I found my alternator braket was broken 
_________________
1964 sunroof Beetle Restoration "Herbie"
“Joann” 1970 Elm Green Squareback
1972 Yellow Tin Top Westfalia -Sold
“Fitz” 1971 Westfalia Poptop EJ22 swap
“Rome” 91 Syncro |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Xevin 
Samba Member
Joined: January 08, 2014
Posts: 8563
|
| Posted: Sat May 31, 2025 10:29 pm Post subject: Re: A 1991 Syncro L Single knob “Rome” rebuild |
|
|
Bro, your brain and skills are amazing. If you ever make it out to my hood you  have a VW friendly driveway and or a room to hang in if you’re not allergic to cats. You know how I roll.
And I’m close to this. And other snow parks.
https://www.timberlinelodge.com/mountain/ski-area
You can slide this 10 months of the year. Meaning summer time too, usually.
Link
_________________
Keep on Busin'
| 67rustavenger wrote: |
| GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! |
| Clatter wrote: |
| Damn that Xevin... |
| skills@eurocarsplus wrote: |
I respect Xevin and he's a turd  |
| SGKent wrote: |
My God! Xevin and I 100% agree  |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Chris-a
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2005
Posts: 131
Location: PNW
|
| Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2025 6:10 am Post subject: Re: A 1991 Syncro L Single knob “Rome” rebuild |
|
|
Vanagon ski meet up!
_________________
----------------------------
I gotta have nice tools, just look at the cars I drive. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
dobryan
Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2006
Posts: 17127
Location: Brookeville, MD
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
4Gears4Tires
Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2018
Posts: 4140
Location: MD
|
| Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2025 4:41 pm Post subject: Re: A 1991 Syncro L Single knob “Rome” rebuild |
|
|
The GW alternator bracket is a great little piece. Anyone on a wbx should be installing them even if you don't have any cracks.
_________________
'87 Syncro Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition
'85 Westy Sciuridae Domus Edition |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Sodo
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 10617
Location: Western WA
|
| Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2025 5:50 pm Post subject: Re: A 1991 Syncro L Single knob “Rome” rebuild |
|
|
| dobryan wrote: |
Do not use G gear for engine braking. It is known for getting broken under that use.
Do not use G or 1st for bump starting. Same issue. Use 2nd.
Try to avoid bump starting in R as well.
|
My take:
Granny and Reverse are very high risk for bump starting.
You should never do it. Reverse gear is the highest risk.
1st gear is much much stronger, but if you have enough speed to use 2nd, such as being towed, choose 2nd gear over 1st gear As DoB wrote.
I have never heard of granny breaking when used "for engine braking: such as slowing your descent, with caution.
Don't "jerk" your tranny in reverse or granny.
=========
I saw the 1st gear oil change hairdo. That wasn't 'great'.....
I bet that was the factory gear oil.
The owners manual said the oil does not need to be checked or changed, and most owners thought "cool !" and complied.
And the Bentley manual does not even have one word about changing gear oil.
So the antiquers are bummed of course.
Its reasonable to change engines at 200k miles but gearboxes should go 400k.
If Previous owners maintained these gearboxes all you'd have to do is replace bearings, hubs, & synchros.
But the danged POs drove them hundreds-thousands with contaminated oil and thus sucked the second-life out of our gears !
Now we're re-using deathbed gears with our new synchros and bearings.
People should know better than to believe "lifetime fluids".
But it's convenient. And they trade-in for a new car.
The vehicle MFRs are happy the car is "injured' but the antiquers are bummed.
So this change, this hairdo, how many miles is this?
Is the oil a really dark oil (Swepco?) or is it blackened?
If it's blackened, it could be due to the front trans groundstrap beckoning electricity to come forward via your shafts, and it's crossing at the mainshaft bearing.
If it's electricity turning yur oil black, it's ruining your bearing too.
Get rid of that strap and ground the starter to the chassis directly.
It's a good idea to ground the alternator case to the chassis too.
_________________
'90 Westy EJ25, NEW oil rings (!) 2Peloquins, 3knobs, SyncroShop pressure-oiled pinion-bearing & GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox.
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered original gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb
Last edited by Sodo on Sun Jun 01, 2025 10:44 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
dobryan
Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2006
Posts: 17127
Location: Brookeville, MD
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Sodo
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 10617
Location: Western WA
|
| Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2025 10:41 pm Post subject: Re: A 1991 Syncro L Single knob “Rome” rebuild |
|
|
| dobryan wrote: |
| Sodo it was a few years ago that one of our well respected members mentioned to not engine brake in G. Can’t pull up that post though. |
Diesel feller?
_________________
'90 Westy EJ25, NEW oil rings (!) 2Peloquins, 3knobs, SyncroShop pressure-oiled pinion-bearing & GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox.
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered original gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Ceckert64
Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2015
Posts: 2109
Location: Huntington, WV for now
|
| Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2025 8:01 pm Post subject: Re: A 1991 Syncro L Single knob “Rome” rebuild |
|
|
| Xevin wrote: |
Bro, your brain and skills are amazing. If you ever make it out to my hood you have a VW friendly driveway and or a room to hang in if you’re not allergic to cats. You know how I roll.
And I’m close to this. And other snow parks.
https://www.timberlinelodge.com/mountain/ski-area
You can slide this 10 months of the year. Meaning summer time too, usually.
|
I appreciate it! If I'm in the area I will definitely be stop by I appreciate the offer!
That would be awesome to ski there, hopefully I can make it out west again in the next few years
| Chris-a wrote: |
| Vanagon ski meet up! |
That would be awesome!
| dobryan wrote: |
Some trans advice.
Do not use G gear for engine braking. It is known for getting broken under that use.
Do not use G or 1st for bump starting. Same issue. Use 2nd.
Try to avoid bump starting in R as well.
|
Good to know, I was wondering about it when I was using it. I would have had to ride the brakes in first though which is what worried me, not enough braking power from the engine in first.
I've heard about reverse before, not about 1st and low. I will try to avoid those if possible.
| 4Gears4Tires wrote: |
| The GW alternator bracket is a great little piece. Anyone on a wbx should be installing them even if you don't have any cracks. |
That's good to know about. I should have gotten that but I already got the VanCafe one. Maybe I will still upgrade it to the GoWesty one.
| Sodo wrote: |
| dobryan wrote: |
Do not use G gear for engine braking. It is known for getting broken under that use.
Do not use G or 1st for bump starting. Same issue. Use 2nd.
Try to avoid bump starting in R as well.
|
My take:
Granny and Reverse are very high risk for bump starting.
You should never do it. Reverse gear is the highest risk.
1st gear is much much stronger, but if you have enough speed to use 2nd, such as being towed, choose 2nd gear over 1st gear As DoB wrote.
I have never heard of granny breaking when used "for engine braking: such as slowing your descent, with caution.
Don't "jerk" your tranny in reverse or granny.
=========
I saw the 1st gear oil change hairdo. That wasn't 'great'.....
I bet that was the factory gear oil.
The owners manual said the oil does not need to be checked or changed, and most owners thought "cool !" and complied.
And the Bentley manual does not even have one word about changing gear oil.
So the antiquers are bummed of course.
Its reasonable to change engines at 200k miles but gearboxes should go 400k.
If Previous owners maintained these gearboxes all you'd have to do is replace bearings, hubs, & synchros.
But the danged POs drove them hundreds-thousands with contaminated oil and thus sucked the second-life out of our gears !
Now we're re-using deathbed gears with our new synchros and bearings.
People should know better than to believe "lifetime fluids".
But it's convenient. And they trade-in for a new car.
The vehicle MFRs are happy the car is "injured' but the antiquers are bummed.
So this change, this hairdo, how many miles is this?
Is the oil a really dark oil (Swepco?) or is it blackened?
If it's blackened, it could be due to the front trans groundstrap beckoning electricity to come forward via your shafts, and it's crossing at the mainshaft bearing.
If it's electricity turning yur oil black, it's ruining your bearing too.
Get rid of that strap and ground the starter to the chassis directly.
It's a good idea to ground the alternator case to the chassis too. |
Good comments with the engine breaking, as above I will avoid using those gears in those cases. I was very gentle with it engine braking in granny. I also had 3 of my friends in the car, the 16% grade that was looong, the heavy Vanagon, and a lower compression ratio engine so granny was the best bet even though risky. I shouldn't be in that situation too often, though, either
But for the comments on gear oil. I'm guessing I drained off the factory gear oil, maybe it was changed at 140k miles when it had an engine replacement done by the dealership but doubtful. It seemed the owner took car of it and took it to the dealer, but he took it to the dealer, meaning a low chance the oil was ever changed 
The original oil was replaced with Swepco 202 and was still a little blue when I drained it off, but it was also a bit dark. The inside of the case is black with dirty oil, but it all wipes clean fairly easily. The oil was drained again as seen in the picture with roughly 6K miles on it, traveling cross-country on that oil change and pushing it up many steep mountain passes.
I will definitely make sure to ground the starter and alternator to the body! That's a good tip to know and should be fairly easy while I'm working on everything.
With my plan for the trans, I am replacing most of the bearing and trying to give it a good refresh. I have had two mainshaft bearings go in my other vw transmissions out of 5, in fact, the only bearings I've had fail on the entire cars are those.
_________________
1964 sunroof Beetle Restoration "Herbie"
“Joann” 1970 Elm Green Squareback
1972 Yellow Tin Top Westfalia -Sold
“Fitz” 1971 Westfalia Poptop EJ22 swap
“Rome” 91 Syncro |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Ceckert64
Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2015
Posts: 2109
Location: Huntington, WV for now
|
| Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2025 8:19 pm Post subject: Re: A 1991 Syncro L Single knob “Rome” rebuild |
|
|
So the last week or so I've started tearing into the transmission and getting some work done to it. Thankfully, I have a cool roommate that doesn't mind me tearing apart a transmission on the kitchen counter or storing the pieces behind the couch It's a very small apartment too, but I guess it works well for a clean space
I ordered most of the bearings for it. I ordered a bit of the parts I needed from Van Cafe then I just placed a huge order with Weddle, the both love me as a customer I'm sure  I decided to skip the idler bearings in the nose cone since they are a pain to do and rarely see loads. I am replacing all the mainshaft and pinion shaft bearings since those see higher loads, and the mainshaft gets less oil. I am also doing the tailshaft bearing. I also ordered the pinion nut tool but the sidescrew tool for the diff was out of stock so I may try to make something.
Overall as I've torn down the transmission, it all looks fairly good. I haven't seen signs of a lot of wear or anything wrong. Hopefully I don't find anything. I was also able to figure out why the locker didn't work. The selector shaft was seized and one I got the bushing out of the transmission, I had to tap the shaft out of the bushing with a hammer. It looks like the locker was hardly used.
Here are a few picture of the work and new parts. A new 3-4 slider and hub, front suspension bushing, some bearings, and misc parts. I had thought I heard the peace pipe was NLA but Van Cafe had it for a good price.
_________________
1964 sunroof Beetle Restoration "Herbie"
“Joann” 1970 Elm Green Squareback
1972 Yellow Tin Top Westfalia -Sold
“Fitz” 1971 Westfalia Poptop EJ22 swap
“Rome” 91 Syncro |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Ceckert64
Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2015
Posts: 2109
Location: Huntington, WV for now
|
| Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2025 5:02 pm Post subject: Re: A 1991 Syncro L Single knob “Rome” rebuild |
|
|
Progress has been slow, a lot of waiting on tools, realizing I need more tools and just been busy
I’ve been slowly getting it apart. I tried to make a side screw tool, I used epoxy and the old side screw lock plate. It worked for the one side but the other side was too seized. I put a grade 8 bolt 3/4” bolt on the oil filter tool and used an impact. To say the least, the bolt and nut stripped on the threads but the epoxy didn’t break so I had to order the proper tool.
I let the side screw soak in PB blaster and gave it a shot today with the proper tool. It finally came out with the impact. I got the diff out, got the pinion nut off, and got stuck again  Good news, the pinion bore is tight, bad news it doesn’t want to come out I’m going to try again with help tomorrow. I set it up similar to how the vw tool is supposed to look, but it is tight
And some more transmission pictures in my apartment. I will say this has turned into a bigger project than expect
_________________
1964 sunroof Beetle Restoration "Herbie"
“Joann” 1970 Elm Green Squareback
1972 Yellow Tin Top Westfalia -Sold
“Fitz” 1971 Westfalia Poptop EJ22 swap
“Rome” 91 Syncro |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Phishman068
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1996
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Ceckert64
Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2015
Posts: 2109
Location: Huntington, WV for now
|
| Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2025 6:45 pm Post subject: Re: A 1991 Syncro L Single knob “Rome” rebuild |
|
|
| Phishman068 wrote: |
I am absolutely inspired by your rebuild!
I am rooting for you! If you can rebuild this in an apartment floor without prior transmission experience, I'll be taking on more of the "Scary" internals in transmissions in the future!
I've got no shortage of transmissions to rip apart over time. |
I’m happy I could be inspiration for someone!
I appreciate it, I’m going to need it I have to get it together soon, 7ish weeks till I have to move so I need this done before then. Hopefully it will be done in 3 weeks and I can drive it again. I also need to do the head gasket still too
But with enough determination it’s possible, it may suck a little rebuilding it on an apartment floor but it’s what it takes. I should be able to enjoy it this fall, especially now that I got the locker freed up so I’ll get to have some fun
_________________
1964 sunroof Beetle Restoration "Herbie"
“Joann” 1970 Elm Green Squareback
1972 Yellow Tin Top Westfalia -Sold
“Fitz” 1971 Westfalia Poptop EJ22 swap
“Rome” 91 Syncro |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
MsTaboo
Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2006
Posts: 4546
Location: East Kootenay, British Columbia
|
| Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2025 8:11 pm Post subject: Re: A 1991 Syncro L Single knob “Rome” rebuild |
|
|
While I applaud your willingness to tackle the transmission it should be noted that rebuilding a Syncro transmission requires some special tools and experience.
There's a reason Syncro transmission rebuilds are big $$$ with only a few specialized shops doing good jobs. If you get it wrong you could be destroying a very valuable transmission.
Why did you feel you had to take on this project? Was the transmission making noises? Any vibration associated with the driveline would have nothing to due with the trans and boils down to a proper alignment of the driveshaft angles.
Here's a link to the 1986 factory service manual for the Syncro transmission and front diff. (you can ignore the stuff about selectable 4x4 in the manual, VW never sold any Syncros with that setup)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/1986_vw_syncro_service_manual.php
This manual shows the major steps of rebuilding the transmission but it assumes knowledge of transmission work. Hopefully you knew to mark the various starting points before taking it apart.
It is extremely important to get all the precision measurements correct and to conduct the required steps to achieve those measurements.
Even experienced Syncro transmission repair shops can get these steps wrong due to the finickiness of German engineering.
Best of luck!
_________________
Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec
The information age has morphed into the age of disinformation and willful ignorance. Agnotology!
All that's needed for evil to prevail is for good people to do nothing.
Resist Kleptocratic Oligarchy (and Idiocracy)! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Ceckert64
Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2015
Posts: 2109
Location: Huntington, WV for now
|
| Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2025 5:13 am Post subject: Re: A 1991 Syncro L Single knob “Rome” rebuild |
|
|
| MsTaboo wrote: |
While I applaud your willingness to tackle the transmission it should be noted that rebuilding a Syncro transmission requires some special tools and experience.
There's a reason Syncro transmission rebuilds are big $$$ with only a few specialized shops doing good jobs. If you get it wrong you could be destroying a very valuable transmission.
Why did you feel you had to take on this project? Was the transmission making noises? Any vibration associated with the driveline would have nothing to due with the trans and boils down to a proper alignment of the driveshaft angles.
Here's a link to the 1986 factory service manual for the Syncro transmission and front diff. (you can ignore the stuff about selectable 4x4 in the manual, VW never sold any Syncros with that setup)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/1986_vw_syncro_service_manual.php
This manual shows the major steps of rebuilding the transmission but it assumes knowledge of transmission work. Hopefully you knew to mark the various starting points before taking it apart.
It is extremely important to get all the precision measurements correct and to conduct the required steps to achieve those measurements.
Even experienced Syncro transmission repair shops can get these steps wrong due to the finickiness of German engineering.
Best of luck! |
I’ve seen so far why they are expensive, tools and parts alone have racked up a pretty good bill on this project. I have all the precision measuring tool, micrometers of different sizes, dial indicators, torque wrenches, calipers, feeler gauges, bore gauges, and some other stuff I’m forgetting. I’ve mainly just had to get the tools for special parts of it.
I wanted to tackle it since I had to pull the engine for head gaskets, the locker was seized up, the trans was leaking bad so it was going to have to come apart a lot. I was also worried the driveshaft vibration had taken a toll on the bearings. I’ve also had to replace two mainshaft bearings in my VW’s in the last year so I wanted to get ahead of it. The transmission also has 175k miles so I wanted to get ahead of it before there was an issue. I also feel good enough with my mechanical abilities to tackle the job where I won’t screw it up, and hopefully I don’t
Thank you for the link! I didn’t realize there was that manual, I’ve just been using the Bentley for all the work. I’ll be reading into that a bit.
_________________
1964 sunroof Beetle Restoration "Herbie"
“Joann” 1970 Elm Green Squareback
1972 Yellow Tin Top Westfalia -Sold
“Fitz” 1971 Westfalia Poptop EJ22 swap
“Rome” 91 Syncro |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Chris-a
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2005
Posts: 131
Location: PNW
|
| Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2025 6:39 pm Post subject: Re: A 1991 Syncro L Single knob “Rome” rebuild |
|
|
 this is great!! I enjoyed the pics of you dropping the engine and trans(with fluid stained ground)in the parking lot, but rebuilding the trans in your apart living room with that white couch is next level!
_________________
----------------------------
I gotta have nice tools, just look at the cars I drive. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Ceckert64
Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2015
Posts: 2109
Location: Huntington, WV for now
|
| Posted: Fri Jun 27, 2025 6:49 pm Post subject: Re: A 1991 Syncro L Single knob “Rome” rebuild |
|
|
| Chris-a wrote: |
| this is great!! I enjoyed the pics of you dropping the engine and trans(with fluid stained ground)in the parking lot, but rebuilding the trans in your apart living room with that white couch is next level! |
Thanks! I'm questioning my sanity for dropping the engine in the parking lot but here we are I try to not spill stuff all over the parking lot but it's hard to get everything. Thankfully my couch is vinyl so it's not a big deal if it gets a little dirty. If it was cloth, I'd be much more careful
I have hit a bit of a stall point on the transmission again, I can't get the main bearing off and I need a press. My roommate is headed to Michigan this weekend and he is willing to pick my hydraulic press from my parents and I might be able to get that down here and not have to buy a press. Hopefully that comes together  I cleaned a the main case section, nose cone (the output shaft housing), and side screws and ran them in the dishwasher, I think I may run them one more time but they are getting pretty clean. I also cleaned a bunch of parts and organized them
Since I am at a stall there, I decided to turn my attention back to the engine for a bit, a big part of what started all this. I decided I would pull the head today since it was a little cooler today (high 80s instead of mid 90s). I fought getting the exhaust off for a while, the cast section where the headers merge had the bolts seized into the casting and pipes. It was so bad that I broke both ends of the bolt off and just the shank was stuck I had to drill them out and use a chisel to get it separated. I got the left head off and I found a very destroyed head gasket. There are cracks all over the gasket. I found no cracks in the head and the typical corrosion on it didn't seem too bad. I was not originally planning on doing the other head since it was not leaking, but after seeing this, I am definitely replacing it.
_________________
1964 sunroof Beetle Restoration "Herbie"
“Joann” 1970 Elm Green Squareback
1972 Yellow Tin Top Westfalia -Sold
“Fitz” 1971 Westfalia Poptop EJ22 swap
“Rome” 91 Syncro |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Ceckert64
Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2015
Posts: 2109
Location: Huntington, WV for now
|
| Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2025 8:35 pm Post subject: Re: A 1991 Syncro L Single knob “Rome” rebuild |
|
|
I've been working on the engine a bit more, mostly good things with it so far, beyond a few bolts breaking. I have also been doing a lot of parts cleaning, I am most of the way done with cleaning everything thankfully
I got the other cylinder head off and all of the pistons and cylinders out. I got the pistons and heads cleaned up so far. I've been finding lots of signs of the factory reman.
First I noticed the case number is stamped a little crooked, seems more off than typical factory, I am wondering if it was a factory replacement case Any thoughts?
I got the heads cleaned up. They don't have much corrosion on the sealing surface, I don't think I will have to use JB weld thankfully. One interesting thing I noticed is it looks like they had welding done on them on the sealing surface. You can see the welding marks and it looks like it was machined off after. I would assume this was to fix pitting and restore the sealing surface, looks like there may have been some welding in the chambers between the seat. The valves and everything on the head looks nice. I am not going to mess with them since they only have ~25k miles on them.
Then the pistons, They took a lot of cleaning to get nice, they had a lot of heavy carbon buildup. Easy Off Oven cleaner did the trick, the aerosol works great, the spray pump doesn't do much. I came to the realization they are 95mm pistons so the engine has a 1mm overbore, which you can't find piston rings for easily. That leads me to my issue, I found a small chip on the oil ring. I think I am going to run it since the ring wouldn't ship out till July 21st and I move out August 8th; so that would give me next to no time to finish the engine, install it, and have it ready to drive to Michigan. I don't love the idea but I thought about it and it should have a minimal effect if I point that side towards the inside of the case, it looks like it had been chipped for a while too.
I am hoping to get the engine together next week and then finish the transmission a week after that. I want to get a couple weeks of driving in to test everything before driving it to Michigan, hopefully it all comes together with less snags
_________________
1964 sunroof Beetle Restoration "Herbie"
“Joann” 1970 Elm Green Squareback
1972 Yellow Tin Top Westfalia -Sold
“Fitz” 1971 Westfalia Poptop EJ22 swap
“Rome” 91 Syncro |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Ceckert64
Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2015
Posts: 2109
Location: Huntington, WV for now
|
| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2025 3:34 am Post subject: Re: A 1991 Syncro L Single knob “Rome” rebuild |
|
|
It’s been a busy last couple weeks, a lot of work has happened on the Syncro. I finished up the transmission and engine and got them installed.
I got the pistons, cylinders, and heads on the engine about a week ago. That all went pretty good. I think it’s all sealed up good. I used a bit of RTV with the coolant jacket gasket.
Then this Saturday I finished up the transmission. It all went together well. After I got it all together I did a deep clean on the apartment and took all the tools out of it and car parts. Only thing left is the press in there
Then yesterday I got the transmission and engine installed on it. I got everything to the transmission but the shifter connected and I added a ground strap from the starter bolt to a chassis ground. I’m also planning on putting one to the alternator. I still have to hook everything up to the engine still and put the alternator, power steering, and AC compressor back on. I’m gone for a work trip this week, get back and then go camping for the weekend: so it’s going to be a week before I can work on it again. Hopefully it all goes together well.
I also put new shocks on the rear. The old ones were blown out and the metal shield on the upper part of the one was rattling around.
_________________
1964 sunroof Beetle Restoration "Herbie"
“Joann” 1970 Elm Green Squareback
1972 Yellow Tin Top Westfalia -Sold
“Fitz” 1971 Westfalia Poptop EJ22 swap
“Rome” 91 Syncro |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
