VW 66 1904 or 1944 Maiz

[Maiz67]

Good day,

I'm looking for a thread that covers modifying a 1300 Type 1 to upgrade 1904-1914 from my motor. Yes, I've( looked and searched). My goal is to have a stronger, faster engine without breaking my bank. If there is a build sheet, that would be appreciated. Kind and patient responses are valued and appreciated.

Also, if someone can recommend a quality mechanic near the Upland Pomona area, that would be awesome.

Many thanks for considering my request.

[rcooled]

Lots of threads on here about building a 1904...here's one to get you started > 1904 engine build
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[Maiz67]

Thanks

[Maiz67]

[AlteWagen]

its the same as building on a late or replacement case but you have to realize the limits of the oil system. Early cases had the small bore oil passages which can be drilled out but its extra work. A cheap low rpm engine is possible but is the engine numbers matching to the bug? If it is Id put it aside and build on another core.

I built a 1914 on an early H case back in the day. Case savers are a must! Deep stud if possible and avoid welding behind #3. I used a 30mm melling that made the engine run hot all the time so put in a stock pump and temps were manageable. Fully balanced rotating assembly (DMS 69mm CW crank, Rimco rods, stock lightened flywheel). Originally had 041 heads with 35.5 exhaust flycut for 11:1 compression, W125 cam, S&S 1 3/4 merged header 48 IDAs. The close 3rd and 4th gears and 1300lbs oval bug made it pretty fast.

After many tickets I de tuned it for my bus and put stock cleaned up 040 heads, W100 cam with 8:1 compression, stock flywheel, dual 36DRLAs and 1 1/2 S&S header. Pulled hard and got 25+mpg hauling parts at the time. I put it in my 60 for a bit and got 30+ mpg when I could keep my foot out of it. I did upgrade to Doghouse cooling at this time and helped again with temps during the summer.

Today Id build the same except use a Web 218 cam, and CB 1 1/2 merged header. Also keep the bore size smaller and use the slip in 92 or 94mm cylinders. To keep cost down stock rotating assembly balanced and will be better than new parts. If your core parts are no good then thinking of stroker crank starts to make sense.

Cost wise if you are not building it yourself Id just buy a new engine from Chico and keep the stocker as a back up or put back in if you sell the bug.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2660929
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[zerotofifty]

Start with a later dual part 1600 case, you will also want the dog house type fan house.

The most Id up that little engine is maybe to a 1500 or so. Bigger than that, start with the later 1600 dual port engines. the 1600 Dual port has much more advantages for a big build, and you NEED the bigger fan and oil cooler that these later engine have.

Ken Jansen of Jansen Enterprises in Belmont Calif does most excellent VW engine work. Highly recommended. Bit of a drive for you, but he knows his stuff and has reasonable pricing too.
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[Maiz67]

Thanks for the reply and taking the time to go into such detail. Question, if the numbers do match why put it aside? Value/nostalgia? I want to teach myself how to wrench on motors. What are some mods that I can do to up the performance? I’d love to buy a new motor but 6k would be a stretch at the moment. Thanks for the mechanic recommendation. This is a passion project and so there is no rush. Decisions decisions. I’m enjoying the journey so far. Also assuming that you know, I have CB performance and AA near me. Any thoughts on their work? Thanks again and keep on buggin’

[rcooled]

[Rome]

Maiz, your thread title lists a 1944 but you probably meant a 1914.

On your F case I would not go as far as a 1914 or even an 1835 with thick-wall cylinders that can use the same case opening as a 1914. The case uses 10 mm diameter cylinder head studs. It's strongly recommended to have case savers installed. If you buy a set (or specify them for the machine shop) to continue using your 10 mm head studs, the case savers' outer diameter will require drilling a bigger diameter hole. When the case is machined for the 94's, the edges of the case hole can touch the sides of the case saver threads. Like this- (Sharp64 gallery)-

If you limit the case bore to the size for fitting 90.5 mm cylinders (1776 cc using stock 69 mm crank), you still have a thin layer of case material outboard of the case saver threads.

If you plan to keep your 69 mm stock crank, I'm fairly certain that the F case 1966 had a flywheel that used a different seal to the crank's end face. Your flywheel also has a smaller diameter than the ones for 1500 cc engines. If you go for a counterweighted crank, regardless if 4 or 8 dowels, you'll need to use a flywheel for that style end gasket or the O-ring seal. Then, that FW will be a larger diameter and not fit directly into your transmission bellhousing. You'll need to grind out some sections of the bellhousing for clearance. And then you'll need a different starter to mesh with the more teeth on the FW.

So- the easiest for you would be to keep your crank & flywheel, and have the case machined for 90.5's. Then you'll need to have your cylinder heads machined for the larger diameter of those cylinders. And remember that your 1300 heads have small valves compared to those on 1500 & 1600 single-port engines. You can also fit 88 mm thick-wall cylinders that fit into the case opening with no machining, but need to have the heads machined for the same size as 90.5's. This gives you 1679 cc.

[Bub]

[Maiz67]

Good afternoon,

I've been away for a bit and came back to find your responses. Thanks a ton. I'm thinking that I will either keep the 1300 and add "minimally invasive" parts or upgrade to a 1600 and call it a day. I'm not in a hurry, and so what I have found on this VW journey is that the more I tinker and read, the more the answers come to me. I think part of the issue for me is finding a builder/machinist who stands behind their work. I am near Riverside, and so I hear there are some out here by me. If you have any leads on a good mechanic, let me know. I am willing to pay a fair wage for good work. Anyhow, thanks for the feedback, and I will keep you posted

Keep on Buggin'