Headlights flickered a few times then went out.

[Silverteener]

Hi all,

Last night my headlights flickered a few times then went out. Would anyone have some advice on what to check first? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[Eric&Barb]

Always best to mention the year of VW in question. First thing to check would be to clean and test fuses.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[Silverteener]

[22manybugs]

Each headlight has its own fuse, both high- and low-beams, 4 fuses total. If both headlights went out at the same time, there is no single fuse that would be the problem. More likely the issue is the headlight switch or dimmer relay.

Use a test probe light to check for voltage at the headlight switch. Terminal 30 should have a big red wire and should always have power (the test light will go on). When you turn on the headlights, then all the terminals 56/58 should have power.

I think the photo you show is the back of the headlight switch (I'm not familiar with earlier Ghias like a '62), the white w/ black stripe wire should go to the dimmer relay. Follow that wire to the dimmer relay, the white w/ black stripe wire goes into the relay and two other wires come out. With the headlights on, one of the two wires should have power, then when you activate the dimmer relay the other wire will have power. Those two wires each go to the set of fuses that go to the headlights.

The relay in the photo cannot be the dimmer relay. That looks like a standard relay that switches to one position when power is applied, then switches back when power is removed. The dimmer relay would stay in either the high- or low-beam position without power to hold it.
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Lon

1969 Karmann Ghia convertible
1971 Westfalia camper

[Silverteener]

[Eric&Barb]

Good to hear you found the problem!!

FYI most terminals sold today are junk that do not seal out the atmosphere and due to that get corrosion between the wire and terminal. Corrosion in turn will cause resistance to the electrical flow causing that area to heat up and less voltage to get to the item one is needing to run. Less voltage means dimmer lights, slower wiper, and even a horn that only works with everything else is turned off (except for the engine).

You can test for voltage drops with a multimeter. EG turn on headlights and test voltage at each headlight and at the battery. The difference between the battery and any electrical item while it is working shows the electrical resistance. In places like the horn where you do not want to toot it so much due to nearby other homes, you can use a taillight bulb wired in to test. Seen plenty of VWs that had about 2 volts of voltage drop and with cleaning and dielectric greasing (to keep corrosion out of each connection for as long as possible) of each connection gotten that down to less than 1/10 of a volt.

Proper factory style terminals and crimper that click ratchets till proper pressure attained is a must for a gas tight seal between each terminal and wire.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=338938

The older bell shaped headlight switch has riveted connection inside that need to be soldered up to rid it of voltage drops.

https://www.type2.com/library/electris/vw-hauptlicht-schalter.html

Also ANY pre-1968 fuse boxes need to be inspected for possible soldering up internal connections. VW finally in 1968 started to spot weld each brass piece in the fuse box together to prevent voltage drops.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=483901&highlight=fuse+box+soldering
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In Stereo, Where Available!