My official introduction Right side slow power window fix

[16CVs]

This will be a place I can introduce or talk about my products or ideas. As no ads are allowed in the forums I am allowed to have a page and talk about new products to the market and have a place for members to ask questions.

I am introducing a kit to fix the dreaded slow right side Vanagon power window.

https://youtu.be/FJ0eeUIsrtA?si=5egtbxEGrMCQMwSK

I have tried wiring changes, as well as new switches and fine tuning window motors and some times I can not get them to speed up to an acceptable speed.

This kit is simple and works every time. So buy one a and install it then come and comment on it. All comments welcome as well as comments on anything else I sell.

I have Vapor barriers and a regulator and motor service as well as all the different harnesses for PDL,PW ,PM. Plus Mirroe lenses with signals in them as well.

Thanks for reading

Stacy
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1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.

[ALIKA T3]

Hi Stacy!

I watched the video on fast forward, thank you for using a quality tap for the DIYer that don't have the crimp tools to double gang the wires
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Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

[16CVs]

Thanks for the comment, I hard wired mine in as the kit needs to be as basic as can be for the non electrically inclined owners out there.

Have you tried those lone taps, they are heavy duty and give a positive connection.
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1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.

[syncrodoka]

Those posi-taps are far better than the other options like scotchlock or t-tap that people like to use.

[1988M5]

Come on guys, learn how to use a voltmeter and isolate/understand the issue. "Volt-drop" is your friend to figure out stuff.

BK

PS Stacy is a great guy, I'd buy anything he's selling, that's if I needed it.
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1991 tin top GL
2002 Winnebago Vista. VW VR6 24V Eurovan front clip powered class C 21' RV.
Some BMWs.

[ALIKA T3]

[snoop]

Installed the slow window fix; it's great! Super easy install and much faster window operation. Thanks Stacy!
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87 Westy Camper

[Gnarlodious]

My ’83 didn’t have electric windows so when I installed them I used dedicated 14 gauge wire all the way and the windows slide significantly faster than in Stacy’s video. I used silicone insulated robotics wire for around the door hinge so it doesn’t flex fatigue.
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Vanagon ’83 diesel AAZ w/Giles injection, 5spd 4.57R&P+TBD and a '78 diesel Rabbit

[snoop]

In the interest of providing a quantitative measure of the effect of this fix and also a purely qualitative evaluation of it's satisfaction quotient:

Time to full up and full down are about 3 seconds now; before down was about 6 seconds and up was about 10 seconds...with helping it with a palmed hand on the glass! It would actually stop moving upward without the hand assist. Quite possibly the most satisfying upgrade to our van...owned for over 25 years, so lotta upgrades...ever!

Highly recommended if your passenger power window operation is anywhere near where our van's was.
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87 Westy Camper

[nvaaron]

I installed Stacy's passenger window relay kit last weekend. My passenger window operates fast and feels pretty modern. I had already replaced the power window guts in the passenger door and didn't end up with good results. It was still slow and sometimes needed a helping palm to push up the window. Stacy's kit fixes the issue (lack of power to the motor).

If I knew where to ground the relay, how to run the power wire quickly behind the dash, and which keyed power line to tap, I think this could be installed in under an hour. It took me three hours because I had to relearn how to test for ground with my multimeter, I didn't know which power line to tap, I had to watch a video on how to use the power tap, and I ended up taking my instrument cluster out to give me easier access to run the relay' its power wire (and fix an unrelated issue with the fresh air hose). My van is an '87 Westy (but might be an '86.5 - sold as an '87, but made in '86) and the components didn't match with what Stacy presented in his video. Another issue I had was my fuse panel did not match the Bentley manual.

For the next person that might need it, below are some visuals of the install that might help.

1) Drop down the glove box to expose the wires behind the glove compartment. This also exposes the metal plate supporting the glove box (no picture). With the glove box open, I pressed the stop tabs on the top right and left side of the glove box (when the glove box is fully open) to release the glove box and have it rotate 180 deg towards the floor.

2) Unplug the passenger window wire harness. The red arrow points to the correct harness. There is only one harness that matched in my van, so this is dummy proof. You plug in Stacy's relay kit wire harness to the existing passenger window wire harness. Stacy's relay kit essentially sits between the existing passenger window wire harness. Stacy's relay kit wire harness can only be plugged in one way, so it is near impossible to screw this part up.

3) Connect the brown ground wire in Stacy's relay kit to ground. I found that the metal glove box support harness screws were grounded, so I used this for a ground connection. Stacy mentioned that you can connect to ground anywhere behind the glove box or use the existing ground from cruise control. I had factory cruise control, but I couldn't find any cruise control items behind the glove box or any convenient ground trees. The glove box screw was the most convenient for me as it required no drilling. You may need to confirm that your glove box screws properly ground. If you need to test for ground with a multimeter, you can set your multimeter to ohms (looks like the omega symbol) and touch a known good ground spot with one of the multimeter probes and touch the other multimeter probe to an area you think might be an appropriate ground. If you get 0.00 ohms on the multimeter, then you have no impedance and a good ground. If you have a large number on the multimeter, that might mean you have high impedance and not a ground connection.

4) Run your long red power wire behind the dash to the fuse panel area. I popped out my ashtray and removed my instrument panel. This provided me with a nice clear path and plenty of space to position the power wire from Stacy's relay kit to where it needed to go. Stacy says there is an easy way to run the wire without removing the instrument panel. I'll figure this out one day. (no picture)

5) Drop down your fuse panel. Different years have different fuse panels. My fuse panel is held to a fuse panel frame with one screw on the bottom right of the fuse panel. I think some fuse panels are held by two screws. There are plenty of other posts and videos that show how to do this. (no picture)

6) My fuse panel was a pain to drop down. I had one relay (or some other device on the fuse panel that looked like a mini speaker) that protruded so far forward that it was catching on the lip of the dash and prevented the fuse panel from dropping down easily. For the fuse panel, you are looking for a power wire that is switched with the key. I think ideally, you will tap into the relay for the power window. In my fuse panel, this was the relay labeled 24 (see the red arrow in the picture). I confirmed this on page 97.190 of the Bentley manual. Per the wiring diagram in the Bentley, wire 87 of relay 24 is a key switched power line (it gets power only when the key is switched on). I confirmed this by testing with my multimeter (on the back side of the relay 24 for wire 87, I inserted one probe from the multimeter and touched the other probe to a ground point - 12v with key turned to accessory and 0v with key turned to the off position). As Stacy notes, the window switches have led lights. If you don't connect the power line from Stacy's relay kit to a wire that is turned off with the key, then the passenger window switch led will drain your starter battery.

7) With the power line to tap identified, you need to tap the power line. It is really easy. You need to unscrew the gray wire holder (see the long red arrow) and insert the wire to tap in the slot of the gray wire holder. You then screw the body to the gray wire holder (see the short red arrow). There is a metal needle that pierces the power line to tap as the body is screwed to the gray wire holder. Stacy sent the tap already connected to the his relay kit's power wire. I had to disconnect the body of the power tap from the relay kit's power wire to tap the Vanagon's power line. You may need to do the same. Just reconnect the power line tap to Stacy's relay kit power wire as it was originally provided.

This is a top down image of the back of my fuse panel showing the key switched power wire I choose to tap. One red arrow points to wire 87 on the back of relay 24. The wire I tapped was red and black stripped.

Hope this helps.

Aaron

[skills@eurocarsplus]

+1 for Stacy. He's one of the best guys out there when it comes to keeping these old girls going.
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