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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 23381
Location: Kimball, Mi
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 Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2025 1:17 pm Post subject: Re: 72 Type 3 Square - Bring back to life |
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It's been a long time, but I think it's 9 ft lbs on the torque wrench side. Or it might be 18 ft lbs. I've slept since then. You could call CIP and see what they say, since they sell the tool.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Scotty D
Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2020
Posts: 280
Location: Claremont CA
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| Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2025 9:44 am Post subject: Re: 72 Type 3 Square - Bring back to life |
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| Type3Todd wrote: |
It's been a while since I've posted, so I thought I'd do a bit of an update.
I've purchased a battery and installed it, installed the exhaust that came with the car, verified all the fuel likes are good, and installed a fuel filter and gotten the engine running.
I've also completed the brake system rebuild and bled the brakes. I had quite a lot of difficulty to bleed them, and took a bit of research to find a technique that works.
I picked up the correct torque multiplier tool
from CIP, but the correct torque setting written on it isn't legible. What is the correct setting for it for the rear axle nuts?
After that the next order of business will be to install a set of new cv drive shafts that came with the car and get the car moving under it's own power. |
These torque multipiers are tyipically 9 times the applied torque. Setting your torque wrench to 28 ft/lbs will get you there. |
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Type3Todd
Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2025
Posts: 29
Location: Richmond, BC, Canada
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2025 8:27 pm Post subject: Re: 72 Type 3 Square - Bring back to life |
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Thanks for the info.
It's been a while as we recently finished a major kitchen reno and I've been busy putting everything back together.
I was able to find the info about the tool from a different site:
A while back I posted about the pedal assembly having a broken hinge for the gas pedal. I ordered the bracket 111701535A and indeed it will work with the later pedal. I decided not to weld it to the floor, instead ground down the original hinge, drilled a couple of holes in it and the assembly and bolted them together. The reason for this is, it's like the original and the carpet doesn't need a hole in it for the bracket.
I've got the pedals installed and hooked up, however the gas pedal seems to be "notchy" so I think that some tweaks are in order for it.
One other thing I noticed is that when I was hooking up the clutch cable it was very tight. I had to unbolt the bowden tube to get the cable slack enough to allow the wingnut to go on. With the bowden tube bolted in place there is a fair amount of tension in the cable so that it's pulling on the clutch lever. There isn't any slack in the cable. Is this normal? I think in the manual it states that there should be about 1/2 inch of pedal movement. Does this mean slack in the cable, or the point at which the clutch starts to move?
This car is a conversion from auto to standard, so I wonder if the clutch cable is the wrong length. The cable looks to be new and I get the feeling it was never hooked up. |
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