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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 33188
Location: Hot Arizona
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 Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2025 6:39 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Consider a slip-in 87mm cylinder and piston set; this will have slightly thicker cylinder walls - which some like - and will fit right in.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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BCE56
Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2013
Posts: 392
Location: So Cal
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| Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2025 12:27 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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A little help?
What color should I paint the bumpers?
SEM Trim Black (to match body moldings)
or
Seymour Stainless Blast (semi-gloss gray metallic)?
_________________
=BCE56=
'86 Syncro Tintop EJ22, OBD II SmallCar adapter plate conversion
'96 Volvo 850 Turbo
'69 Frankenbug now driven daily. |
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OldSchoolVW's 
Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2020
Posts: 1482
Location: San Diego
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| Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2025 12:35 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| BCE56 wrote: |
A little help?
What color should I paint the bumpers?
SEM Trim Black (to match body moldings)
or
Seymour Stainless Blast (semi-gloss gray metallic)? |
My opinion ... black to pick up on the trim and wheels would look sharp.
Maybe post a a survey in this forum?
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewforum.php?f=1&sid=646ca8ae012d090c5c54bcfd7123f7f8
_________________
Tom
"Following distance is proportional to IQ."
"It's okay to think."
"If you don't do it this year, you'll be one year older when you do." Warren Miller
'63 Beetle Sedan
'69 Beetle Sunroof
'70 Beetle Sedan
'73 Type 3 Fastback |
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BCE56
Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2013
Posts: 392
Location: So Cal
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| Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2025 5:04 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| OldSchoolVW's wrote: |
My opinion ... black to pick up on the trim and wheels would look sharp. |
Local survey results: Black wins 6:1.
Proceeding accordingly.
_________________
=BCE56=
'86 Syncro Tintop EJ22, OBD II SmallCar adapter plate conversion
'96 Volvo 850 Turbo
'69 Frankenbug now driven daily. |
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whodunititmate
Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2022
Posts: 19
Location: Sydney
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| Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2025 2:35 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| To change the rubber seals for the vent window/quarterlights in the doors do I need to pull the door apart completley or can I get away with removing the rivet that forms the hinge (for lack of a better word) and lifting the assembly out? |
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 33188
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2025 1:23 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| whodunititmate wrote: |
| To change the rubber seals for the vent window/quarterlights in the doors do I need to pull the door apart completley or can I get away with removing the rivet that forms the hinge (for lack of a better word) and lifting the assembly out? |
That's not a stupid question at all.
However, not detailing what year and whether sedan or convertible keeps that in this category...
And explain "quarterlights" for those in USA please.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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whodunititmate
Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2022
Posts: 19
Location: Sydney
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| Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2025 7:17 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Cusser wrote: |
| whodunititmate wrote: |
| To change the rubber seals for the vent window/quarterlights in the doors do I need to pull the door apart completley or can I get away with removing the rivet that forms the hinge (for lack of a better word) and lifting the assembly out? |
That's not a stupid question at all.
However, not detailing what year and whether sedan or convertible keeps that in this category...
And explain "quarterlights" for those in USA please. |
I can see how that bit of info missing would keep it in this category, or the one of smart question/stupid owner. The car is a 72 super sedan. Quarter lights being the push out bits of glass in the doors. |
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vamram
Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 8060
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2025 7:38 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Yes you have to remove the door pull, door card and main window glass and then remove the complete vent window. There's a screw at the top rear edge of the vent Window's frame hidden under the felt channel that gets removed, and a bolt at the base of the vent window frame that holds the lower frame to the metal door panel. Remove these then you sort of tilt the vent window frame back and pull it out. It can be fidgety, careful not to damage the scraper. Then you need to remove the vent glass from the frame to remove the old seal and install the new one.
_________________
"Men are qualified for civil liberty in exact proportion to their disposition
to put moral chains upon their own appetites. -Edmund Burke
“If something cannot go on forever, it will stop.”
Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...languishing since 2022.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
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Mely
Samba Member
Joined: October 04, 2024
Posts: 34
Location: Worcester, MA
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| Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2025 11:34 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Hi.
I have a 90's no name single DIN radio in my 76 beetle.
Will I be surprised to find a different connection if I purchase a modern cheapo hands-free bluetooth Pioneer? Or will it be plug and play?
I've read that some stereos come with in-line fuses. Don't know if the one I'm interested in has that. Does it matter?
If I need a special hookup, it'd be good to buy at the same time as the radio.
Thanks in advance! |
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BCE56
Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2013
Posts: 392
Location: So Cal
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| Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2025 11:45 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Mely wrote: |
Hi.
I have a 90's no name single DIN radio in my 76 beetle.
Will I be surprised to find a different connection if I purchase a modern cheapo hands-free bluetooth Pioneer? Or will it be plug and play?
I've read that some stereos come with in-line fuses. Don't know if the one I'm interested in has that. Does it matter?
If I need a special hookup, it'd be good to buy at the same time as the radio.
Thanks in advance! |
Contact Crutchfield.
https://www.crutchfield.com/
They can put you on the right track.
_________________
=BCE56=
'86 Syncro Tintop EJ22, OBD II SmallCar adapter plate conversion
'96 Volvo 850 Turbo
'69 Frankenbug now driven daily. |
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Mely
Samba Member
Joined: October 04, 2024
Posts: 34
Location: Worcester, MA
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| Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2025 3:42 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| BCE56 wrote: |
| Mely wrote: |
Hi.
I have a 90's no name single DIN radio in my 76 beetle.
Will I be surprised to find a different connection if I purchase a modern cheapo hands-free bluetooth Pioneer? Or will it be plug and play?
I've read that some stereos come with in-line fuses. Don't know if the one I'm interested in has that. Does it matter?
If I need a special hookup, it'd be good to buy at the same time as the radio.
Thanks in advance! |
Contact Crutchfield.
https://www.crutchfield.com/
They can put you on the right track. |
So just by entering my car info, and choosing what's available from the Crutchfield website, it says, "A wiring harness is not available. You'll need to splice into the factory wires."
That sounds like it won't be plug and play. Anyway, I'll find out soon.
What about inline fuses? Important or not important?
Thanks! |
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 33188
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2025 6:27 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Mely wrote: |
So just by entering my car info, and choosing what's available from the Crutchfield website, it says, "A wiring harness is not available. You'll need to splice into the factory wires."
That sounds like it won't be plug and play. Anyway, I'll find out soon.
What about inline fuses? Important or not important?
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"Modern" stereos typically have a red wire with an inline fuse that connects to a fuse box terminal that has power when the ignition is switched on.
And a yellow wire with an inline fuse that attaches to a fuse box terminal which is always powered or "hot". This is so station pre-sets and clock time are remembered.
Modern stereos use LED lighting so any illumination wire connected to the old radio is simply not used.
Then there are speaker wires and their corresponding grounds.
I have installed stereos in both my 1970 and 1971 in this way.
There are little push-on (like Y- or T-connector) terminals commercially available to add a terminal at the fuse box.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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Mely
Samba Member
Joined: October 04, 2024
Posts: 34
Location: Worcester, MA
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| Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2025 2:41 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Cusser wrote: |
| Mely wrote: |
So just by entering my car info, and choosing what's available from the Crutchfield website, it says, "A wiring harness is not available. You'll need to splice into the factory wires."
That sounds like it won't be plug and play. Anyway, I'll find out soon.
What about inline fuses? Important or not important?
|
"Modern" stereos typically have a red wire with an inline fuse that connects to a fuse box terminal that has power when the ignition is switched on.
And a yellow wire with an inline fuse that attaches to a fuse box terminal which is always powered or "hot". This is so station pre-sets and clock time are remembered.
Modern stereos use LED lighting so any illumination wire connected to the old radio is simply not used.
Then there are speaker wires and their corresponding grounds.
I have installed stereos in both my 1970 and 1971 in this way.
There are little push-on (like Y- or T-connector) terminals commercially available to add a terminal at the fuse box. |
Funny that I just bookmarked a page stating the wire configuration. (It'll be good to now turn the radio off with the key!)
At first I thought I knew what you meant by push-on terminal... Is there any way you could attach a picture, or link?
Thank you. |
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 33188
Location: Hot Arizona
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Mely
Samba Member
Joined: October 04, 2024
Posts: 34
Location: Worcester, MA
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| Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2025 3:24 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Thanks! |
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BCE56
Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2013
Posts: 392
Location: So Cal
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| Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2025 1:26 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Mely wrote: |
So just by entering my car info, and choosing what's available from the Crutchfield website, it says, "A wiring harness is not available. You'll need to splice into the factory wires."
That sounds like it won't be plug and play. Anyway, I'll find out soon.
What about inline fuses? Important or not important?
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You can speak with a tech advisor by calling Crutchfield.
Or you might consult a local installer.
You did not mention any details about your current setup, but it appears an aftermarket single-DIN by P.O. that currently functions.
That suggests power, grounds, speaker connections etc are available.
They should be accessible inside the DIN mounting receptacle.
Wiring instructions provided with the new unit may be adequate to connect to the previously installed wiring. Note the connections of the old unit- those of the new will be the same.
I hope this helps!
..........
FWIW- My Frankenbug arrived with no radio-it was retained by the P.O. An unsightly rectangular hole cut in the dash and some dangling wires were all that remained.
I removed the useless wires and covered the dash hole w/ a homemade delete plate. Also removed the flimsy antenna and installed a filler plug.
I might install a radio later.
...Much later I reckon.
_________________
=BCE56=
'86 Syncro Tintop EJ22, OBD II SmallCar adapter plate conversion
'96 Volvo 850 Turbo
'69 Frankenbug now driven daily. |
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Mely
Samba Member
Joined: October 04, 2024
Posts: 34
Location: Worcester, MA
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| Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2025 1:16 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| BCE56 wrote: |
| Mely wrote: |
So just by entering my car info, and choosing what's available from the Crutchfield website, it says, "A wiring harness is not available. You'll need to splice into the factory wires."
That sounds like it won't be plug and play. Anyway, I'll find out soon.
What about inline fuses? Important or not important?
|
You can speak with a tech advisor by calling Crutchfield.
Or you might consult a local installer.
You did not mention any details about your current setup, but it appears an aftermarket single-DIN by P.O. that currently functions.
That suggests power, grounds, speaker connections etc are available.
They should be accessible inside the DIN mounting receptacle.
Wiring instructions provided with the new unit may be adequate to connect to the previously installed wiring. Note the connections of the old unit- those of the new will be the same.
I hope this helps!
..........
FWIW- My Frankenbug arrived with no radio-it was retained by the P.O. An unsightly rectangular hole cut in the dash and some dangling wires were all that remained.
I removed the useless wires and covered the dash hole w/ a homemade delete plate. Also removed the flimsy antenna and installed a filler plug.
I might install a radio later.
...Much later I reckon. |
I didn't want to call a professional, barrage them with questions, and not actually use their services or products. Was trying to get by on the cheap.
Yes, having a working radio already installed was a majority of the work done.
The important wires were identical in the newly purchased radio, but the speakers wires were not.
And there was an additional blue with white stripe that was a power antenna/ system remote control wire. That one threw me at first.
Figured it out though!
Thanks for the help. |
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BCE56
Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2013
Posts: 392
Location: So Cal
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| Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2025 1:53 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Quote: |
I didn't want to call a professional, barrage them with questions, and not actually use their services or products. Was trying to get by on the cheap.
Yes, having a working radio already installed was a majority of the work done.
The important wires were identical in the newly purchased radio, but the speakers wires were not.
And there was an additional blue with white stripe that was a power antenna/ system remote control wire. That one threw me at first.
Figured it out though!
Thanks for the help. |
You're welcome, Mely.
I have found many/most service and repair chores are complicated by the need to rectify "fixes" perpetrated by previous owners.
Thank goodness for The Samba community!
_________________
=BCE56=
'86 Syncro Tintop EJ22, OBD II SmallCar adapter plate conversion
'96 Volvo 850 Turbo
'69 Frankenbug now driven daily. |
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vamram
Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 8060
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Sun Aug 24, 2025 4:44 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Can a header sitting right up against the apron and the rear engine tin contribute to a hot-running motor? I have a Thunderbird header on my '74 Super w/dual heat risers. After running for only a minute on a cold start, the rear apron and the rear engine tin are already almost too hot to touch. And w/every tin in place, that heat could transfer to the heads...right?
_________________
"Men are qualified for civil liberty in exact proportion to their disposition
to put moral chains upon their own appetites. -Edmund Burke
“If something cannot go on forever, it will stop.”
Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...languishing since 2022.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 33188
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Sun Aug 24, 2025 5:50 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I ran a Thunderbird header with quiet exhaust on my 1970 VW with 1835cc dual port engine and dealer-installed AC in Arizona, and I did have some paint cracking on its apron from heat. You may see some in this photo.
I did not have doghouse cooler, I ran an external oil cooler mounted to the fan shroud (and still do, the engine is now in my 1971 convertible). The 1971 does NOT have AC.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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