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Exhaust clean up UPDATE. You gotta see this!
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lovedavdubs
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 11:27 am    Post subject: Exhaust clean up UPDATE. You gotta see this! Reply with quote

Well...I got good news and bad Rolling Eyes

Good news first. The crossover pipe is now retapped and ready to go. Dancing
We tapped all the holes out to 10mm x 1.5 and put high grade steel studs in them.

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Now for the bad news Rolling Eyes Evil or Very Mad
My heater boxes are total crap. Mother nature and road salt have ravaged them both to the point of no return Crying or Very sad I'll order new ones from Just Campers UK tonight. The order will run me about $360.00 US dollars.
http://217.29.195.146/FMPro?-db=wproducts.fp5&...amp;-find=

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By the way, this is what started this hole project. Burning oil in the heater boxes is sending smoke up through the heat vents. Stock valve covers are on the way.
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Oh yea, here's the link to the previous thread. It was getting kinda long.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=153910
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r39o
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fix the oil leaks first. You can seal the boxes with muffler repair tape and clamps if only the ends are bad. The exhaust nuts needs penetrating oil put on them NOW! Later, most likely, you will need a torch to take them off. Use LOTS of antisieze to assemble. If you can get copper plated pinch nuts, use them. Those flanges are good enough to use, I think. Or, of course, you can take the heaters system all apart. WHAT a job.

Just to get the system off, you are going to need heat and grinders as the fastners look well stuck on.

But, if you fix the oil leaks first, you root problem will be gone.
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lovedavdubs
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

r39o wrote:
Fix the oil leaks first. You can seal the boxes with muffler repair tape and clamps if only the ends are bad. The exhaust nuts needs penetrating oil put on them NOW! Later, most likely, you will need a torch to take them off. Use LOTS of antisieze to assemble. If you can get copper plated pinch nuts, use them. Those flanges are good enough to use, I think. Or, of course, you can take the heaters system all apart. WHAT a job.

Just to get the system off, you are going to need heat and grinders as the fastners look well stuck on.

But, if you fix the oil leaks first, you root problem will be gone.


Wishful thinking...take a closer look at the 3rd and 4th photos down. The mounting stud hole is rusted so bad that it has enlarged clear out to the outside edge of the flange. If I unbolted the other 5 studs I could probably rip the stud striate through the flange. Trust me the photos don't even do it justice. These flanges are falling apart. The smoke in the cabin was the initial problem but is only part of the problem. The current exhaust is also riddled with holes causing backfires and loss of back pressure etc. Its all gotta go.
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lovedavdubs
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any body got any links on heater box replacement?
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msinabottle
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 9:02 pm    Post subject: Darn it! Reply with quote

Sorry you're having such a time of it, for heaven's sake! You keep going from problem to problem. Vehicular Whack-a-Mole.

I'm a bit grouchy myself, we're getting warmer and Sears swapped out my little seized air compressor without query or complaint, but Arizona Wind and Solar shipped me the wrong flourescent--I'm sure they'll set that right. The plan is to mount that over the bench, as soon as I get the VSR, inverter, and fuse block wired to the new battery.

Hang in there, dear fellow, we're rooting foryou.

Best!
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CF
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 6:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man, those wheels look nice Cool
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 7:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

lovedadubs,

it still AMAZES me that from 1939 to 1983 VW never came out with a better hot exhaust heater system that didn't suck in oil leaks and fumigate the occupants.. Twisted Evil I mean come on.. just a little extra thought and we'd all be breathing happier and healthier.. Mad

I'm taking apart an exhaust on an aircooled vanagon, LMK if you need anything. NEW exchangers aren't a bad choice though, they'll last for years to get your $$ worth from them.

not quite a R&R site, and for bays, but these diagrams may be of help
http://www.oldvolkshome.com/2exh7279.htm#251B

I'd suggest you add a few items to your tool arsenal if you can
theres a new ROUNDED NUT remover set from IRWIN available @ HD for $20-25
I also have great respect for my cordless DEWALT SawZall. and cordless DEWALT 4.5in ANGLE GRINDER (wear safety glasses Shocked )
I got in my 6 piece mega cordless destruction tool bag. $400-$500
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mlf
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 3:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jay
try the ratwell site or the type2 site.
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Mulcheese
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 5:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So lddubs, is that a bolt welded into the EGR tube. I'm trying to figure out what to do with mine once I get the new exhaust. I blocked off the EGR intake at the air plenum but don't what exhaust gases leaking into the heat.
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Karl
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why do you want to block off EGR?

It is designed to lower NoX emissions.

Its benefit is lowering combustion temperature which is a big PLUS on a aircooled heavy Vanagon. Sure, your mileage will suffer but your engine will last longer.

In the late '70s on US cars, we used to disconnect EGR to improve performance and mileage but the engine would ping on acceleration.
Very BAD thing to have happen. Reconnecting the EGR valve stopped it.
EGR is a design feature that works hand-in-hand with all the other emission controls. NoX forms when combustion temps go above 2500 degrees F.
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Mulcheese
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't want to block it off but I am missing the EGR filter, the valve is stuck closed, ( tried to free it with out success), and the linkage is broke. From what I've read to replace those parts is in the range of hundreds of dollors that I don't have. I would love to keep everything stock but at the moment it is not possible. Maybe some day but for now that is where I'm at.
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lovedavdubs
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked Wow! this thread really took off since the last time I checked it. Thanks for all the responses! That is a bolt welded in the EGR tube. It was done by a PO. Doesn't matter to me though. That whole system is long gone on my engine Rolling Eyes Also a PO modification Rolling Eyes My old cross over pipe has a gapping exhaust leek at that exact location.

Thanks for the link Dan Wink and thanks for the vote of confidence ms.

Quote:
Man, those wheels look nice Cool
Oh these old things Laughing

The new heater boxes should be here in 7-10 days. Well, if we donít have a pictorial for a heater box replacement job currently we will when I get done Wink I'll take pics of everything along the way. Stay posted.

Jay
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SlowLane
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work loveda.

I have to admit to some major shadetree-ing with my heater boxes. They were almost as bad as yours. I made extensive use of JBWeld to seal up the ragged ends of the sheet metal, and one side seam which had started to come apart.

On the flanges, which were eaten away to about half their original thickness, I used a flat bastard file to flatten the mating surface as well as I could, then I sanded out the rust with my Dremel. Then I applied a thin layer of JBWeld to the flange surface and clamped a flat plate to it with a sheet of wax paper between the plate and flange. When the JBWeld cured, I filed it flat again. Repeated until I had something that resembled a real flange.

Yes, I know that it's an ugly hack, but I did it for several reasons:
I figured that I had nothing to lose by trying. I could always order new boxes if I messed up.
I had heard that the new heater boxes were not of the best quality, so original boxes would be the preferred choice.
I had spent quite enough on this rebuild up to this point. Spending another $600 on new heater boxes would have just hurt too much. Sad

After 5 months, the bastardised heater boxes are still sealed up perfectly. No complaints yet.
JBWeld - Better than duct tape. Smile

Fitment tips:
Use the copper nuts on the exhaust studs.
Use the good quality sandwich gaskets on the heater-box-to-crossover connection.
Test assemble everything before you go to install it on the engine.
Install the heater boxes loosely (ie. don't tighten the exhaust manifold nuts) until you have the crossover pipe installed. Fasten the crossover pipe to the heater boxes before snugging down the exhaust manifold nuts. This ensures that the heater box flanges line up with the crossover pipe with the minimum of fuss.

Best of luck.
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CF
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I have to admit to some major shadetree-ing with my heater boxes.

there is diffinlty no shade tree by him ...lol Laughing

Quote:
Why do you want to block off EGR?

It is designed to lower NoX emissions.

in brooklyn -who cares. Laughing
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r39o
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lovy,

When you come out here to So Cali, they will whack your...for not having EGR. You need ALL the smog stuff hooked up and preferrably working if you hope to have a prayer of getting it past the smog Nazis.
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lovedavdubs
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

r39o wrote:
Lovy,

When you come out here to So Cali, they will whack your...for not having EGR. You need ALL the smog stuff hooked up and preferrably working if you hope to have a prayer of getting it past the smog Nazis.


Well if all goes well...by then, I may be running a Suby engine Wink
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

lovedavdubs wrote:

Well if all goes well...by then, I may be running a Suby engine Wink


LDD and don't let the nay sayers discourage you from keeping your beautiful blue aircooled. it's a little more work to convert a AC to suby/what-not. but i've done it and can help you with insight for the parts and processes needed for AC to H2o conversion. with minimally invasive surgery.

my favorite word of discouragement is. well the AC doesn't have the heater in the dash.. buy one already H2o. but then you'll need to take the dash apart anyways to fix a locked up or squeaking blower fan.. Embarassed
yeah it's a big task, but if broken down to individual parts, it's not too difficult.

I'm looking at changing mine from 1.6TD to 2.2T 5cyl this spring.
just need a better cruising speed then full throttle (though the TD could push 80, i'd like to cruise @ 80 and it's not fair to the lil 1600cc)

Dan
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r39o
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

danfromsyr wrote:
I'm looking at changing mine from 1.6TD to 2.2T 5cyl this spring.

Well, gee, while you are at it, how about the 6cyl VW (from a VW LT?) TD that is in some older Volvos?
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2006 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here they are! I'm the proud new father of two beautiful 19lb. twins. These are heavier than I though they would be.

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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2006 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

heavy is good. no send them out to be powder coated or sumsuch.


as for a LT6cyl used in volvos those were straight six and don't fit length wise..

the 5cyl does squeek in, stays VAG engine management for my own sanity and on the road diagnosis of issues.. I have a nice low miles (80K low for a 5cyl they regularly hit 300K+) and some great insightful chat with a fellow who's already blazed his own path and Mfg'd and installed the same into his syncro westfalia.

I'll keep my old used heaterboxes around in case LDD>

See you in the spring.. East coast campin.
dan
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