Battery Install with Perko - Aux. Battery+Auxiliary Battery

[cool karmann collected]

As aeromech said, you want to keep the thick cables to the switch in the engine bay as short as possible. Two quick reasons for this are that these cables are not fused so you want to minmize the chance of them shorting against bodywork somewhere. Also, having the switch in a locked engine bay is a handy security feature should you need it.

I put my fusebox for the aux battery up front behind the kick panel, fed by a single thickish (can't remember exact gauge) wire that has a big (35A) fuse near the aux battery, one of those gold plated big-stereo jobs.

At the aux battery end you can see the fuse for the wire that feeds the second fuse box, behind that is the isolator relay that switches on and off depending on whether the engines running or not. on the battery positive terminal there is 'key' operated switch that I can use to link the two batteries if the starting batt is flat for any reason, basically an el-cheapo version of the marine switches seen in the posts above, there is a thick cable going from this across the top of the engine bay to the starter battery to carry the current needed to 'jump' the starting battery, but like I say, that cable is only live when I insert the plastic 'key' (not shown)

[Tcash]

To link to this thread

[Tcash]

Hi in discussions with Blue Sea's tech, he directed me to their Circuit Wizard and Panel Wizard. Which can be found on the provided link in the middle of the page. He said that consumers need to calculate the size and heat rating of the cable so there is not a voltage drop across the cable. This will cause your Aux. battery to not receive a full charge. He also mentioned it is best to attach the ACR as close to the starting battery as possible.
If you are not going to combine batteries for starting install fuses at both ends of the cable at the batteries. This set up will reduce the size of the cables required. But if you are going to combine batteries for staring use no fuses. Fuses will not take the initial amps the starter draws If you go to the (Fuse Block and Fuses) there is a battery fuse block and fuses to choose from based on the Circuit Wizard calculations. If you need help call there 800 number and talk to technical. They seem to really support there products.
Good Luck Edits in Blue

BlueSea

[bugger101]

[grandpa pete]

west marine sells a non metalic battery box $13.99

[Tcash]

To link to this thread

[Tcash]

To link to this thread

[bugbane]

Wouldn't a diode placed in line from starter to aux battery do the same. I understand that you would have to have the separate fuse panel for cab lighting and accesories. The short drive issue and draining your start battery is concerning, but if you are on the road it would seem you could overcome that issue. All this technology has room for gremlins

[Oil Phil-M]

I installed a battery isolator on the alternator cable and a factory fuse box (with a slight twealing of a single support tab) in the mirror location to the existing fuse box. I found that there is not allot of factory wiring that needs to be re-routed to the new secondary fuse box (interior lights, 4-way flashers, gas heater). Most of the other items I added myself and went directly to the the secondary fuse box (additional interior lights, 12v power outlets, radio, clock).

The primary battery powers only the items which requires the ignition key to be on (apart from the parking lights). There is no draw on the primary battery when the ignition is off, no switches to switch and most importantly the two batteries are never connected together so I don't have to match up batteries or that one battery will draw down the other. I have a high cranking amps battery as my primary battery and I picked up a Powertech AGM 31 series deep cycle battery as my secondary system battery which out performs an Optima by a long shot.

After installation the only thing I do as a preventative measure is to toss on a slow charger once a month or after a camping weekend to ensure the batteries are recharged to their peak and thats it.

[aeromech]

A small solar panel placed on the dash board and plugged into the cigarette lighter works well for keeping the batteries topped off between trips.
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Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
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DC9/MD80
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VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
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Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[Tcash]

Hi All, Isolators that have been in use for quite some time use diodes, the only drawback with this approach is it takes 7 amps to go passed the diode. So your Aux. battery never receives a full charge it is always 7 amps short.
Solar panels work great, back in college we bought some cheap radio shack one's and threw them on the dash on the cars that had parasitic draws. The only problem was when a student would park the vehicle facing north. Best to park the vehicle facing a southern exposure. I think they were like 1.5amps.

Provided link for anyone interested in solar, thank you Emmitt2222 . VW Bus and Solar

[airkooledchris]

for the original poster, I run mine the same way, and have for about 6 years now, without it causing me any trouble.

from a day to day basis I just run it on the starting battery only. when I know im going to camp, I switch it to both and drive to my campsite. when I get there I toggle the switch over to position 2 (deep cycle) and use whatever electronics I want.

when it's time to leave the campsite I toggle it back over to the starting battery and im on my way. if I didn't totally drain the deep cycle ill just toggle it to 'both' and start it up and drive away to re-charge them both fully.

back home and with both fully charged up again, I toggle it back to position 1 for the regular starting battery.

it eliminates the need for all of the extra fuse boxes and separate wiring, and so you don't have to rely on one battery or the other for a particular function/device since all power is relayed via the switch.

walking to the back of the bus on the random days when you need to switch it and just turning the switch isn't really so difficult. I just can't justify all the added expense of the isolators and the rest of that stuff that people usually run. my only concern initially was over-taxing the alternator by charging both batteries while running in 'both' mode, but no issues yet with this setup. YMMV

I don't doubt there's better and more clever ways to do the same thing, but this way also works.

[Tcash]

Low Voltage Control Relay
Note: connect voltages are different. Battery fully charged voltage will determine which one to use.

Tcash

[richparker]

This is a total thread hijack...title is easy to search.

Aeromech, what is the minimum amount of watts a solar panel could have to charge the deep cell battery? I've heard 45w, could it be as low as 15w?

Let's say 4 days camping in the desert with no engine running. What size panel would keep the leasure battery topped off? In my case I doubt I'll ever totally drain it, mostly used for interior lights and charging devises.

Edit: are those high end inverters I see installed in the other theads hard wired to the leasure battery in the ciriut?
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Adventure thread
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[pb24ss]

[Mal evolent]

you can find 80 watt panels that just fit into the fiberglass well over the front cab. seems like a good place to start.
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Baja Bugs for Volkswagen Virgins: Index

[aeromech]

Rich,
I'll ask an electronical genius in the morning and try to get you an informed answer.
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[jpstewart19]

I did exactly that. Don't know what the minimum is, but put mine in the fiberglass overhead..

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=567844&highlight=
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1985 Vanagon Westfalia Subie
1972 Super Beetle Convertible
1990 Vanagon GL "Winston" (Sold)
1980 Vanagon Westfalia “Rusty” (Sold)
1982 Vanagon Westfalia “Rusty II” (Sold)
1977 Smurf Blue Campmobile (Sold)

[aeromech]

Sorry Rich, but I completely forgot to ask. I sent myself an email at work so I'll be able to get an answer in the morning (Tuesday).
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[aeromech]

Okay Rich,
Here's the poop from my guru. He says that 15w would be the minimum to keep the deep cell "topped up" but it would never charge up the battery if it was discharged. 45W would be great if it had a regulator to prevent over charging the battery.
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound