Rebuilding my automatic transmission

[Slow 1200]

Ok, so I finally got my 71 fastback titled (thats a story by itself )
and now the only thing that's stopping me from driving is a very noisy final drive, I'm suspecting differential and/or pinion bearings
I know the trans was leaking ATF into the final drive, I don't know for how long it was driven like that, I hope ring and pinion didn't get damaged
The car has only 50.000km and the trans actually shifts nicely, but there's clearly something going on in there!

I got myself a trans rebuild kit, so tomorrow I'm gonna pull engine and trans and start tearing into it.
It's my first type 3 engine pull too, so any pointers are welcome!
Do I need a puller or a press for the bearings or does everything just come apart easily? How can I check for damage to the ring and pinion? What about setting the r&p mesh for the DIYer?

I have the brown Bentley and a copy of the "1968 provisional automatic transmission workshop manual", I know early autos are different at the stub-axle level so I'm wondering how different my 71 is gonna be.

[Bobnotch]

I think you'll be fine. I'd pull the engine and trans as a combo, and seperate them after getting them out of the car (this way you don't bend the input shaft for the converter). Some prep work, like removing the torque converter bolts while it's still in the car will help later. You do have an #8XZN socket (looks like a torx, but isn't, as it's got 12 points) for the CV joints right? If not, get 1, you'll need it. Also clean out the CV joint bolt heads of any dirt and grease packed in them, as you might need that extra torque to get the bolts loose without stripping the heads.
I think Russ said the balance point of the 2 was close to the joining point of the engine and trans (or maybe just a couple of inches forward of that point). You'll also probably want to have a helper around, as that's quite a bit of weight to be moving/balancing on a jack. Just take your time, and you should be good to go.

You've also got the right books to help you with any issues that will pop up.

Yeah, Ray says that's a common problem of these transmissions (atf dumping into the final drive).

Good luck, and let us know how it works out.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[jmarkha1]

I recently pulled my 1970 auto apart - relatively low mileage and no obvious issues but I went through the whole car and engine.
Advice as above - take your time, take the engine and box out as 1.
Drain all the fluids prior to dropping and clean the external casing of the autobox and differential prior to putting it on the bench.
The differential adjustments, bearing and bush changes are straightforward if you have a Bentley.
Very few special tools were required apart from a good low ft/lb torque wrench, good circlip pliers, plenty of clean ATF and thinners to clean all the parts.
Take lots of pictures as you dissemble and pack each major clutch and drive set into individual bags - then on rebuild you can clean and replace for each set and insert back.
I also found the autobox fits nicely into the dishwasher - dont tell the wife...

a few pics of the gearbox in this thread:
http://www.vwtype3and4club.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=3793

[Mike Fisher]

A number of guys have rebuilt their AT's using just Chapter 8 in the brown Bentley. German Transaxle in Bend, OR might be able to help?
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey

[Slow 1200]

[jmarkha1]

luckily everything was within specification. Even the friction plates were well within specs - I changed all bands, oil seals, gaskets and bolted it all back together.
Once separated, the diff comes out of the housing as a single unit so if you need new bearings replacing, you can take the unit to a local engineer to press off/on.

[Slow 1200]

ok, so thanks to my friend Xavi's help we were able to drop engine and gearbox as a unit, wasn't so bad for a first time, now it's time to take things apart and check

worst thing was loading that in the trunk the engine support bar was just wide enough to not clear the narrowest part of the trunk!

[Slow 1200]

I have one question regarding taking the final drive apart:

The manual calls for taking the governor out as one of the first steps, but I recall Russ saying some times that he didnt recommend taking the governor off because the drive could fall inside or something like that.

what's your call guys?

[xavi_242]

I am the helper and can confirm that the putting the engine in/out of the trunk was a real PITA...
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1967 Split SO-42 Dormobile

[Slow 1200]

[ddesh]

If you are going to reseal the complete diff unit. Yes take the governer out first. If you are not totaly resealing the diff then dont take it out.

[raygreenwood]

But...its false economy to remove the transmission and not totally reseal the differential...especially the governor. If the govorner seal fails...again...you get ATF in the diff section. Ray

[Slow 1200]

the plan is to reseal everything, so governor is coming off; but first thing before puting the new seals is going to be investigating the whining noise, seems like we are going to find a bad bearing, hope the ring and pinion didn't eat each other

[markpetersonii]

If you haven't already done the seals, can you take pics along the way?

I want to pull mine apart and reseal it, I just have no idea what to do.

Thanks!
_________________
1971 VW Squareback - My Project - My Gallery
2003 MBZ E500 Sport

[Slow 1200]

I only had my cell phone with me so not the greatest quality pictures:

First thing was separating engine and trans, the converter was stuck to the drive plate, so the pump shaft came with it, good thing I didn't try to pull the engine while in the car!

After some judicious use of solvent and a brush I was able to actually see the casings

Four bolts and final drive sepparates

Getting the stub axles off was the hardest part, after that it all comes apart super easy

After taking the lock plate out I was able to loosen the pinion nut by hand, is it supposed to be that easy?? The backlash between ring and pinion seemed very large, but not having a way to measure it and being my first transmission ever I have no idea if it was good or not.

Can you guys tell me anything about that wear pattern? I know it's a blurry picture, I'll try to come back with a proper camera
I didn't see any obvious damage to the bearings like seized rollers or blueing so I don't really know what to think

[Slow 1200]

ok, better pictures now:

[Bobnotch]

I really don't see any wear. Since you've got it cleaned up, you could always paint the teeth with some dykeum (or use a sharpie or other type of magic marker) and then rotate the parts to see how they interface with each other (the teeth will remove the marker, showing the wear pattern).

You might have gotten lucky and caught it before any real damage happened. You should get a magnetic base, and a dial indicator, and check the back lash too, since the specs are in the Bentley.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[Slow 1200]

I brought the diff unit to a transmission shop so they can check it and change the bearings if necessary, I happen to NOT have a 3-ton press in my kitchen (sadly! )

still I'm curious if the pinion nut is supposed to be handtight? something tells me it shouldn't (I'm guessing that' means the rear bearing is gone?)

[Slow 1200]

well, it turns out the ring and pinion ARE worn out

so if any one has a good set I'll happily take it!

[Slow 1200]

of course a vendor had two NOS sets for sale for six years but they are gone now that I need them