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SamSmith
Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2011
Posts: 326
Location: Groton CT
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 Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 6:15 pm Post subject: 64 Euro S model Variant-Sam's build thread |
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Ok fellow type 3 lovers, its time for a buld thread. I have been putting this off for a while since I am a little embarrassed of my pile of a car, and cause im a in a little over my head on this one. 
A little about me, im eighteen, from AZ, still in highschool, enlisted in the Navy leave In June, and currently taking welding courses at a Voc/Ed school. I would like to think im a decent welder.  
Anyways picked this up the square almost a year ago, bought it with no motor, and without a clue about cars. It has rust in all the usual places, rockers, floors, and cargo area, lower doors. It had some rust on the fenders but I patched that already. Bought a used motor, replaced a broken hockey stick and put some webbers on my motor. It still has the pushbuttons and was originally sold in france. Missing a lot of trim.
Decided to make the build thread because its time to expidite this project with me leaving for the military soon and all. My goal is to drive it to school at least once and get it sold so my parents dont have to deal with it while im gone. The invasion would be nice, but seems like a huge goal, plus its the week right before I ship. 
So the pics do most of the talking,
Im on spring break, and I found out the motor I have that I bought has some nasty rod knock (naive me, buying a shit motor ) So hopefully I can start an rebuild this week while I dont have school. Will need youre assistance!
thx Sam
My little temporary workshop, with my broken gokart in view 
Last edited by SamSmith on Mon Apr 23, 2012 7:28 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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supaninja
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Joined: July 03, 2010
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Location: houston
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Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 23022
Location: Northwest of Normal
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| Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 6:34 pm Post subject: |
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I like the brick floors!
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Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
Those who can- do.
Those who can't? Subaru. |
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SamSmith
Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2011
Posts: 326
Location: Groton CT
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| Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 7:34 pm Post subject: |
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"Never rust Brick floors"
Nick-that is the best news I have heard all year, honestly. All this time I feel like my parents look at my ship date like the day my life ends, and are trying to get rid of all my stuff. Hopefully I can get it ready enough.
More stuff about my car:
-4 lug and long axles with front discs swapped a very long time ago...
-I bought a Stock 68 motor and put on the baby webber carbs and 009
-Lowered 3 ticks in back 2 in front
I have fixed/replaced:
-New wiring harness
-New non period correct dash pad
-Patched fender rust
-Welded up the holes in roof from the old "Sears" roof rack (quote PO)
-fixed busted Hockey stick
-Hand brake cables
-Fuel lines, break lines
-New calipers
-Working on the fatal early-ignition switch problem, looking at a collumn from a later model at a junkyard in phoenix, anyone know compatibility?
More about the motor: Replaced bent pushrod, and pulled the heads, but since the seller of the motor reassured me the motor was a sound runner, I did not split the case, but I removed all the valves and un-gummed the guilds. Drained the oil once i got it in the car and there was bits of bearing in it.  So a rebuild is next order of business now that I am much more mechanically inclined. |
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supaninja
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Location: houston
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SamSmith
Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2011
Posts: 326
Location: Groton CT
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| Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 8:10 pm Post subject: |
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That would be ideal because hopefully that means no machine work, which is good on my budget. Good news, but time will only tell. The rebuild I was planning was just that, bearings, cooler, pump, and mild cam, assuming my crank and case weren't to f-ed. Then rings and if funds permit a valve job
I assumed metal in the oil would just be from bearings. I haven't turned it over for fear of further damaging my case. It was pushrod for exhaust 3 btw. |
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W1K1
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Joined: March 04, 2004
Posts: 5320
Location: Southern AB
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| Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 9:24 pm Post subject: |
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My buddy bent a pushrod last year because he never set the side play on his rockers.
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1973 super 2110cc
1965 squareback 1500E-sold
1971 bay window westy- EJ2.5 subi swap |
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SamSmith
Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2011
Posts: 326
Location: Groton CT
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| Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 9:27 pm Post subject: |
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| Been thinking. I feel like a stuck valve would be the reason the lobe got messed up. I don't see any other way it would become flattened. So in this case means a valve job should be in order. Still hopeing that's all that's wrong internally |
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Mike Fisher
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Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 18050
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 9:03 am Post subject: |
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valve job Only sounds prudent/cheap. All you can lose is your labor?
Don't you dare sell it! 
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https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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Bobnotch
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Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 23533
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 9:06 am Post subject: |
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I've started with worse. The floors look the worse, but since Gerson is repopping them, that will make short work of fixing them.
For the engine work, you're really going to need to tear it completely down to find out what the real problem is. There's just too many things that can cause a problem without knowing for sure. Plus it'll let you sleep better at night, knowing you went thru it.
If your parents don't live in a HOA neighborhood, and they're willing to let you keep it there, I would ask them. HOA's can be a real PIA, which is why I don't live in one. But ask your parents, they might surprise you. I know I'd do that for my kids, and have already done so, and would do it again.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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SamSmith
Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2011
Posts: 326
Location: Groton CT
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| Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 9:51 am Post subject: |
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Our HOA isn't very prominent. Mostly older folks concerned with the free-bus route going through the neighboorhood, that's "carting the drug dealers to our park". lol they probably think I'm a drug dealer
The problem wouldn't be storing it, it would be the willinness of my mom. We will see. I got a couple months to figure it out.
I like the reassurrance from everyone! Thanks  also, anyone know about early to late steering collumns? I know ninja has the aussie collumn, but does anyone know about american spec compatability? I'm not really down for spending +$300 on an nos switch or on the isp junk. |
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Bobnotch
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Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 23533
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 10:17 am Post subject: |
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| SamSmith wrote: |
I like the reassurrance from everyone! Thanks also, anyone know about early to late steering collumns? I know ninja has the aussie collumn, but does anyone know about american spec compatability? I'm not really down for spending +$300 on an nos switch or on the isp junk. |
Sorry about that, I forgot you asked about that.  I'm using a 1 year only 71 steering column in my 65 Notch. You can use any column from 68 to 71 T-3. The keys to using it though are; you have to cut the nut plate under the dash in half to get the extra 10mm wider spread of the later column (this includes the rubber mount too if I remember right). And you need to use the earlier outer column tube with the later assembly. I used the shaft, sterring wheel, and column head from a 71, and the tube from a 65 to do mine. works great, other than it having a 1 year only ignition switch (which was something I wanted to avoid). If I were to do it again, I would have used a 68 to 70 column instead.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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SamSmith
Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2011
Posts: 326
Location: Groton CT
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| Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 10:36 am Post subject: |
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I'm not sure of the year of the car I looked at, but I'm going back this week. I don't know a whole lot of idiosyncrasies but it was a slant nose with highbacks, so I'm guessing its 68 or 69 but it didn't have a motor, and I didn't have a lot of time to look so I'm not sure the year. The ignition was at an angle like the late bug ignitions, not perpendiculat like the broken one I have now if that helps. There was also a late model square with no collumn head but a shaft and tube.
I will bring my collumn when I go back to compare. But thanks bob, I guess I will neeed to cut something either way.  |
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Bobnotch
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Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 23533
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 4:59 am Post subject: |
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| SamSmith wrote: |
I'm not sure of the year of the car I looked at, but I'm going back this week. I don't know a whole lot of idiosyncrasies but it was a slant nose with highbacks, so I'm guessing its 68 or 69 but it didn't have a motor, and I didn't have a lot of time to look so I'm not sure the year. The ignition was at an angle like the late bug ignitions, not perpendiculat like the broken one I have now if that helps. There was also a late model square with no collumn head but a shaft and tube.
I will bring my collumn when I go back to compare. But thanks bob, I guess I will neeed to cut something either way. |
Sounds like the parts car is a 68 or 69, which would be a good donor (easier to get parts for). To get it out, you'll need to pull the fuel tank, the safety clip (just un-bend the 2 tabs), and the thru bolt above the biscuit (pull the bolt out, and you might need to tap it with a hammer due to rust and dirt), along with the 2- 6mm allen head bolts at the dash, then unhook the wires (for the turn signal and ignition switch) and pull the whole assembly out (into the car). Since that column is for the earlier body style, you might not need to swap the lower tube like I did.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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SamSmith
Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2011
Posts: 326
Location: Groton CT
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| Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 9:53 am Post subject: |
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Started prepping my garrage for the overhaul. I have a work bench and all my tools ready. Yet to order any parts though. tools I still need are a ring compresser, valve compressor and whatever you need to get the fan and shroud off. how imperative is an engine stand? I might be able to borrow one from my neighbor Bob, but not sure if he will oblige.
Headed to tuscon tomorrow but I might have time to pull the motor, we'll see.
A bit of progress on the collumn, I took my blank key and the barrel and took it to a locksmith, to see if there was any salvaging it. Mr. smithee told me my switch was junk, "There is a crack right down the shaft If I make a key for this its going to break."  Im thinking "Your a freaking lock smith, you fix locks!!!" lol
So thats a 30 dollar key blank down the tubes I guess. Unless theres any way I can remove the lock portion from the barrel? It looks like the smith already tried as the barrel has a big hole in it. Im thinking I can dismantle the lock, Ive dont it before on house locks, and take broken portion to the welding shop. My teacher can precision tig weld cast alluminum, Im guessing a tack on the crack for reassurance, just if the parts arent to far gone. Is it worth trying to fix before getting a new collumn all together? An idea at least..
Heres the head
And my barrel with my expensive Kolb H profile key
The crack is on opposite the word GARAGE. The gouged up face isnt so bad, its the crack down the middle that the locksmith said is bad
Any finally is this the pin you push to remove the lock portion?
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ataraxia
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Joined: March 19, 2010
Posts: 4511
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 2:59 pm Post subject: |
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The column looks decent but the lock cylinder looks rough. They can technically be rebuilt but it's likely not worth your time.
I'd either install an Aussie switch or just move on to another part of your car-the NOS switch will show up in the classifieds when you least expect to find it-at least that's the way it's worked out for me over the last few years. You can always create a push button start for the motor for now-it's easy enough to put back once you find the right switch.
I'll look non-stop for a week and nothing...then a month later when I've moved on to something completely different-it shows up in the classifieds.
Here are a couple of options:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1192420
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1177194 |
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SamSmith
Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2011
Posts: 326
Location: Groton CT
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| Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 3:15 pm Post subject: |
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I emailed the guy from germany earlier today. I asked if he would sell just the switch to make shipping cheaper. There is a push button already in the car, I just thought I would get this sorted while I could.
Anyways, I ordered the "how to rebuild your vw engine" book and have the bentley and muir books. Mr muir says to have the machine shop size your bearing, but I am still hoping I won't need to have any machining done. How hard is it to size bearings? I head its a lot of unbolting and re torquing. How much would align bore and crank turning cost? Any reputable machine shops in arizona? |
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supaninja
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Location: houston
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Bobnotch
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Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 23533
Location: Kimball, Mi
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rustyfastback
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Joined: July 31, 2002
Posts: 841
Location: Georgia
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| Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 7:12 pm Post subject: |
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| I have used ignition switches with that crack w/ no problems. Actually 2 of my '66 squareback have the same switch w/ the same crack & they still work. You can remove the pin pictured & remove the lock cylinder. I have disassembled that type of lock cylinder. It was a pain as it uses round pins instead of wafers. There are key depth cuts from 1 to 6 making it hard to make that key. I think Gabe the VW locksmith no longer cuts these style ignition locks also. I am sure the locksmith you went to has no clue. Find a used switch or NOS one is best. |
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