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79 bus : pushrod tube seals : preparation
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Orange
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 4:49 pm    Post subject: 79 bus : pushrod tube seals : preparation Reply with quote

Okay, getting braver here... while I was under the bus adjusting the clutch cable, I finally identified where I believe the largish oil leak is originating - the pushrod tubes on the left side rear (I was beginning to think it was the oil cooler, but I can't even find the damn thing!). I'm going to try changing them without pulling the engine, mainly because I don't have an ATV jack available to lower/lift the engine.

I've got Bartnik's instructions in front of me for absorption:

http://type2.com/bartnik/pushrod.htm

... but I'm a little lost without pictures. I need to be able to identify all parts prior to getting dirty in there so that I have a solid mental picture. Specifically:

"Remove valve cover -- get your big honkin' screwdriver under the bail" - I think I've got the valve covers down, but what's the bail?

"You are now faced with your rocker arms. Note that there is a thin metal wire spring thing that is very oddly shaped and goes the length of the head" - is he referring to the cylinder head here? Will the spring be inside the pushrod tube?

Also, a picture of the pushrod tubes still out of the engine but with seals installed would be valuable.

I'm reading that I'll need valve cover gaskets in addition to the pushrod seals, and a little moly grease for where the seals will sit.

I have a Haynes, Muir, and Chilton book if you want to reference page numbers of pictures. Those Haynes pictures are too close for me to identify where in the engine the parts actually are... (I know I should have on, but Bentley is too expensive at the moment).
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westy78
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 5:11 pm    Post subject: Re: 79 bus : pushrod tube seals : preparation Reply with quote

Orange wrote:
Okay, getting braver here... while I was under the bus adjusting the clutch cable, I finally identified where I believe the largish oil leak is originating - the pushrod tubes on the left side rear (I was beginning to think it was the oil cooler, but I can't even find the damn thing!). I'm going to try changing them without pulling the engine, mainly because I don't have an ATV jack available to lower/lift the engine.


No need to drop the engine to replace PR tube seals on a type4 engine.



Orange wrote:
"Remove valve cover -- get your big honkin' screwdriver under the bail" - I think I've got the valve covers down, but what's the bail?


The bail is the wire clip that you pry down to free the cover from the head. If you have the cover off you have already dealt with the bail. Smile

Orange wrote:
"You are now faced with your rocker arms. Note that there is a thin metal wire spring thing that is very oddly shaped and goes the length of the head" - is he referring to the cylinder head here? Will the spring be inside the pushrod tube?


No the retainer spring is what holds the push rod tubes in place. It will be under the rocker arm. Make sure to remember the orientation of this wire for reinstall.

Orange wrote:
Also, a picture of the pushrod tubes still out of the engine but with seals installed would be valuable.


Have you taken a cruise through Ratwell's site? I think he has some photos in there somewhere.

Orange wrote:
I'm reading that I'll need valve cover gaskets in addition to the pushrod seals, and a little moly grease for where the seals will sit.


Whenever you remove the valve covers it is a good idea to replace the gaskets. They are only a couple bucks. The molly grease isn't that great of an idea due to it could cause the gasket to slide or "suck" creating a vacuum leak. Ratwell has photos of this also. Permatex Hylomar gasket dressing is a better adhesive to use. A light coating just on the valve cover side of the gasket is all you need to hold it in place. None is needed on the head side.

Orange wrote:
I have a Haynes, Muir, and Chilton book if you want to reference page numbers of pictures. Those Haynes pictures are too close for me to identify where in the engine the parts actually are... (I know I should have on, but Bentley is too expensive at the moment).


Once you get the valve cover off it will become more clear as to what you are looking at. Again I think Ratwell has a good photo right up on this procedure somewhere on his site.
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Orange
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

** double post, sorry no delete option! **
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Last edited by Orange on Sat Jan 01, 2005 6:59 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Orange
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great information - thank you!

Another question about symptom: The bus only leaks when the engine is running. Muir suggests this to be an oil cooler issue.

Would this rule out the pushrod seals, or will they also only leak with a running engine?
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 5:25 pm    Post subject: Re: 79 bus : pushrod tube seals : preparation Reply with quote

Orange wrote:

http://type2.com/bartnik/pushrod.htm


Just what I needed. Thanks for posting this link. Smile
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The oil level is below the pushrod level in the sump when the engine is not running. So no they shouldn't leak unless the engine is running. The engine will leak more when running due to the oil pressure pushing oil out anywhere it can find a spot. This is one reason it is very important not to overfill when you do an oil change. The increased pressure from the extra oil can blow seals. Sad
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What westy78 says is right on the money.

I would remove the 2 cooling shields right under the push rod tubes and spray the area with Castol Purple Degreaser (buy a gallon), rise off with a garden hose and do it a couple of times if you have to, to get that area as clean as you can.

Make sure you have about 4 cans of Gum Out Carb Cleaner and a bunch of paper towels to clean it all really good around the tubes, before you pull the tubes out. The slightest bit of crud in there will give you a bigger leak than you have now. Plus you don't want any wierd crud getting into your engine.

After everything is clean, I would only do one side at a time so that you can look at the other side if you get lost as you put it back togeather.

Once you get the engine clean and the push rod tubes replaced, it will be easier to track down any additional oil leaks you might have.

Maybe you won't have any more! Shocked
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right on Randy. Cleaniness is very important in this procedure since anything that drops down the lifter bore goes directly into the engine case. Not to mention having the potential to make a stuck or sticky lifter.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the photos on Ratwell's site on replacing the PR tube seals. About half way down the page.

http://homepage.mac.com/ratwell/78_Westy/PhotoAlbum19.html
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Orange
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't worry, Randy, I picked up a gallon of the purple stuff and a wire brush on your recommendation last week when I was sold the wrong pushrod seals. Wink

Thanks for the link, westy78... I knew I'd seen it somewhere, but wasn't able to relocate the pics.

I'm still not sure about the clutch, I change out the cables tomorrow. If the pressure plate/throwout bearing is bad, I'll have to pull the engine anyway.
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