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Master cylinder vs. Tie Rod issue ... again
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Dirtsniffer
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 10:28 pm    Post subject: Master cylinder vs. Tie Rod issue ... again Reply with quote

I have a Master cylinder vs. Tie Rod issue with a new dual MC. It seams the MC needs a 90 instead of a 45 near the tie rod. Does any one know where I can get one? The old MC is gone.

Sorry to post this but I can not find a post that deals with this. I am about to pull out my pex tools and make one.
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HenrikL
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 3:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What year car is it? I have a 1964 with a dual circuit master cylinder without any problems.
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Dirtsniffer
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 1963 top on a 67 pan.
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most (all?) Type 3 masters come with a (near-) 90° nipple:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Did you use a Bug unit?

Sorry, I don't know where to get just a 90° nipple.
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Dirtsniffer
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yep, I must have. Someone told me they were the same and I bought one for $25. I didn't want to pay $100. NOW I KNOW.... All my lines reach I just need a 90 and a longer push rod and I should be good.
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another difference in Bug units is the threading (or lack of same) of the two mounting holes. IIRC, the Bug MCs are threaded, so you drill out the threads to use it on a T3.

Here's another pic of the correct nipples:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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Dirtsniffer
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That was the first issue I found and then started drilling the threads out.
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Dirtsniffer
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I give up... I 'm going to just pay 150.00 for a type 3 ATE MC instead of a $25 type 1 It can be done but the issues are

1-You will need to drill out the bolt down threads on the MC
2-You will need to re-bend the brake lines and good luck getting them to reach to the other side of the MC
3-The brake fluid "intake pipe" near the tie rod needs to be at a 90 not a 45 angle or else it hits the tie rod. I tried to heat the 45 and bend it. it was working until I over heated it and now I have nothing.
4- you will need a longer push rod 153mm more than the stock rod. you need 153mm or more.

Thanks
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can take your pick of my master cylinders here near Harrisburg for $50. Idea
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 5:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dirtsniffer wrote:
I give up... I 'm going to just pay 150.00 for a type 3 ATE MC instead of a $25 type 1 It can be done but the issues are

1-You will need to drill out the bolt down threads on the MC
2-You will need to re-bend the brake lines and good luck getting them to reach to the other side of the MC
3-The brake fluid "intake pipe" near the tie rod needs to be at a 90 not a 45 angle or else it hits the tie rod. I tried to heat the 45 and bend it. it was working until I over heated it and now I have nothing.
4- you will need a longer push rod 153mm more than the stock rod. you need 153mm or more.

Thanks


According to Sharkskinman, you're supposed to only use the guts of the type 1 master cylinder to rebuild a type 3 master cylinder. That's all. I've always either bought a rebuilt one from Car Quest (when I needed 1 now), or I've have Jim Adney rebuild them. He does a great job rebuilding them. Cool
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Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

VW changed the port configurations somewhere around '71, so when I replaced my master I had to make up a new line for the left front.

Check this thread for more info:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=561653&highlight=hanger+coat
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Tram
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dirtsniffer wrote:
I give up... I 'm going to just pay 150.00 for a type 3 ATE MC instead of a $25 type 1 It can be done but the issues are

1-You will need to drill out the bolt down threads on the MC
2-You will need to re-bend the brake lines and good luck getting them to reach to the other side of the MC
3-The brake fluid "intake pipe" near the tie rod needs to be at a 90 not a 45 angle or else it hits the tie rod. I tried to heat the 45 and bend it. it was working until I over heated it and now I have nothing.
4- you will need a longer push rod 153mm more than the stock rod. you need 153mm or more.

Thanks


Look- you've got a Type 3. You need to adjust your attitude and pocketbook using the following parameters:

First: get used to the fact that cheap Beetle parts won't work. News flash: It's not a Beetle! Buy the right stuff, do it once, and do it right. You'll be glad you did.

Second: Yeah, the right stuff is "expensive". BUT- Be happy that you're not in love with a classic Porsche or Mercedes! Smile
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Those who can't? Subaru.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tram wrote:
Dirtsniffer wrote:
I give up... I 'm going to just pay 150.00 for a type 3 ATE MC instead of a $25 type 1 It can be done but the issues are

1-You will need to drill out the bolt down threads on the MC
2-You will need to re-bend the brake lines and good luck getting them to reach to the other side of the MC
3-The brake fluid "intake pipe" near the tie rod needs to be at a 90 not a 45 angle or else it hits the tie rod. I tried to heat the 45 and bend it. it was working until I over heated it and now I have nothing.
4- you will need a longer push rod 153mm more than the stock rod. you need 153mm or more.

Thanks


Look- you've got a Type 3. You need to adjust your attitude and pocketbook using the following parameters:

First: get used to the fact that cheap Beetle parts won't work. News flash: It's not a Beetle! Buy the right stuff, do it once, and do it right. You'll be glad you did.

Second: Yeah, the right stuff is "expensive". BUT- Be happy that you're not in love with a classic Porsche or Mercedes! Smile


Or own a T-34 Ghia. Shocked
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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vlad01
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd be happier with a old Porsche, how could you be less happy with one?
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 6:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vlad01 wrote:
I'd be happier with a old Porsche, how could you be less happy with one?


Having to insure it, or buy parts for it. Shocked Both are really expensive.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
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