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PNWesside31
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forgot to mention...

Van is a 91 Multivan, and I did check fuse #20 and its fine..

Thanks again
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tam_shops
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine did that and it was the headlight switch. It was seriously irritating!

There is a cool illuminated one you can replace it with though! Someone was kind enough to send me one, it is COOL! Think it's this one:
http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-477941531F-srch.html

tam
madspaniard wrote:


So what happened here? Bad headlight switch or something else?

Thanks

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PNWesside31
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tam_shops wrote:
Mine did that and it was the headlight switch. It was seriously irritating!

There is a cool illuminated one you can replace it with though! Someone was kind enough to send me one, it is COOL! Think it's this one:
http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-477941531F-srch.html

tam
madspaniard wrote:


So what happened here? Bad headlight switch or something else?

Thanks


Sweet! Thanks!! I'll try that.. I like the idea of the upgrade too.
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Abscate Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 2:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

PNWesside31 wrote:
madspaniard wrote:
OK, I finally figured this out. Some time ago, the previous owner had replaced the stock lighter with a GoWesty illuminated 12v lighter in the dash. Power to the lighter for accessories was coming thru my auxiliary fuse panel (aux battery power kit) but power to the lighter for the small bulb was coming from thru the dimmer in the headlight switch.

A very small plastic piece in the little bulb assembly was broken allowing metal contact with the hot wire. Once I disconnected the lighter from the main wiring, I had dash lights again, no blown fuse and no melted dimmer. An expensive experience, a new headlight switch for a 90-91 van is not cheap.


Hoping to get some help with my dash light issues...I'm having light issues in general, but the dash is bugging me most.

Basically, my dash lights went out, and my left turn signal was acting up. I'd have to hold it down for it to work, and that would be inconsistent. I didn't drive it for a couple weeks and after driving it lately, the turns work just fine, but the dash still doesn't work. All other lights work as well as the instrument panel, and the only thing that doesn't work are the lights.

As far as other lights not working, the brake lights only work when I FULLY press the brake pedal down....not sure if this is related at all....I'm assuming it's just a simple brake light switch replacement.

Any help is much appreciated. Thanks in advance.


Probably the switch. On the master cylinder, but remember to bleed system after replacing!
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PNWesside31
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the advice.....another weird thing happened today....when I got in the van, I went to lock the auto lock doors, and the locks started locking/unlocking on their own, and then finally stay locked. Does this have anything to do with all these electrical gremlins?
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PNWesside31
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tam_shops wrote:
Mine did that and it was the headlight switch. It was seriously irritating!

There is a cool illuminated one you can replace it with though! Someone was kind enough to send me one, it is COOL! Think it's this one:
http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-477941531F-srch.html

tam
madspaniard wrote:


So what happened here? Bad headlight switch or something else?

Thanks


Ay issues with power locks?
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tam_shops
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do not have power locks, sorry.

No strange problems with anything after the light switch was fixed...

tam
PNWesside31 wrote:
tam_shops wrote:
Mine did that and it was the headlight switch. It was seriously irritating!

There is a cool illuminated one you can replace it with though! Someone was kind enough to send me one, it is COOL! Think it's this one:
http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-477941531F-srch.html

tam
madspaniard wrote:


So what happened here? Bad headlight switch or something else?

Thanks


Ay issues with power locks?

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Sodo
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I need a new one because the dimmer is burned out. Mine is partnumber 251 941 531 0. The ones on eBay are 251 941 531 M. You can see the rheostat wires melted & balled up at the point where the wire melted.

Does anybody know what's the difference for a '90 headlight dimmer? It's easy to find them for '78-'89 VW transporter, but I don't see ANY offerred for '90-'91. Can I use the "to '89" headlight switch on a '90 van? -----> New Head Light Headlight Switch Headlamp Driving Lamp VW Volkswagen Vanagon http://r.ebay.com/CSca2U

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Last edited by Sodo on Mon Oct 26, 2015 6:41 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Ida
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 6:30 pm    Post subject: Instrument Panel / Dash / Indicator Lights Reply with quote

Hi - Ida : 1985 Westy Auto Tranny 2WD 1.9 L

Problem : Instrument Panel Lights / Indicator Lights / Tach / Coolant Gauge

NOT WORKING WHEN VAN RUNNING ( but -- indicator lights / panel lights working when van not running ... Tach not working at all , Coolant gauge hits high and flashes immediately when started from cold)

I have just replaced old original circuit foil with new GoWesty printed circuit board, checked all wires and fuses : /

Possible the stereo etc taking all the juice ??
Or a grounding problem ?

Anyone else have similar issue/advice ?

Ida sad Crying or Very sad
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IdahoDoug
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What prompted the foil replacement? Same issue before the replacement?
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kamzcab86
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sodo wrote:
Does anybody know what's the difference for a '90 headlight dimmer?

Can I use the "to '89" headlight switch on a '90 van?


M switch has 8 pins.
T switch has 10 pins.

No, they are not interchangeable unless you change the switch harness too.

http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=3609&category_id=&category_parent_id=
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Sodo
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kamz that's fantastic. Thank you. My '90 switch has 10 pins.
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'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered original gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb
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crazyvwvanman
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2015 6:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The important difference between the 2 switch types is with the dimming dash lighting section. The later switches use a dedicated power input pin for the dash lighting section with a protection fuse wired in that input power source. The earlier switches power the dimmer section from the common power pin and then the dimmer wiring has a fuse after the switch. If you use an earlier switch with a van that has the later wiring it will bypass the existing fuse, a bad idea. You would end up with no fuse protection for the dash lighting wiring.

Mark
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Sodo
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2015 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's great information, thanks for clarifying. I guess a guy could add an inline fuse-holder (that would probably never blow, but will protect of course).

This will become important if one switch or the other becomes NLA.
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'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered original gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb
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Ida
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2015 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi IdahoDoug
The foil was corroded, needing replacement, and I foolishly thought this would fix the issue


IdahoDoug wrote:
What prompted the foil replacement? Same issue before the replacement?
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Sodo
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sodo wrote:
You can see the rheostat wires melted & balled up at the point where the wire melted.


Thanks for the help finding the new switch ($48 + shipping) but got this one fixed. ( I think).

Here you can see the wire melted, and molten ends balled up. I wonder what did that?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Removed the Rheostat portion of the switch by prying on the snap fasteners.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Lucklily the break was near the last wrap. Unwrapped ONE loop, and inserted it thru the hollow rivet.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Wrapped it around the terminal pin and snapped it back together. Also re-bent the rheostat contact pad to press a little harder on the wrap.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Put it back in the van and it works GREAT. Now the dilemmaโ€ฆ..probably next time it goes out those 10-pin switches (for '90-91) will be NLA. Evil or Very Mad
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'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered original gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb
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rubbachicken
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lucy had the same issue, the blue foil was fried, so i bought a bunch of LED's
i sent with blue LED's, i bought 100, i think $4 delivered with 100 resistors.
a few minutes trying to figure out the best way to go about making up a small loom.
i put 2 leds in the speedo, another 2 in the tacho, another behind the oil light panel, and one behind the clock, in hindsight i think 2 behind the clock would have been better.
i took power from the light of the hazard warning switch, and soldered a wire long enough to meet the ground crowns.
i don't have a picture behind the dash, but this is how it came out
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2020 3:03 pm    Post subject: Re: dash lights are dead Reply with quote

Thanks to madspaniard for this tidbit - I was having issues (and of course everytime I fixed one thing another would break, but could not find the root of the blown fuses - until I saw this post. I disconnected my 12V illuminated lighter, and problem seems to be solved.

I'm going back in to try to get the clock working again(was working before I took cluster out) I still don't have the light on the clock, but the clock was working before.

Anyway - thanks madspaniard!

Quote:
OK, I finally figured this out. Some time ago, the previous owner had replaced the stock lighter with a GoWesty illuminated 12v lighter in the dash. Power to the lighter for accessories was coming thru my auxiliary fuse panel (aux battery power kit) but power to the lighter for the small bulb was coming from thru the dimmer in the headlight switch.

A very small plastic piece in the little bulb assembly was broken allowing metal contact with the hot wire. Once I disconnected the lighter from the main wiring, I had dash lights again, no blown fuse and no melted dimmer. An expensive experience, a new headlight switch for a 90-91 van is not cheap

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2020 4:09 pm    Post subject: Re: dash lights are dead Reply with quote

I forgot to ask - for fuse #3 on an '86 syncro, should this be a 10 amp fuse (which is what I had there, and what the GoWesty fuse diagaram indicates) or a 15 amp fuse (which is what manual says?)
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creative native
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2020 1:32 am    Post subject: Re: dash lights are dead Reply with quote

Sodo, I suggest buying a backup switch, if possible, before they become NLA. I did this for my '86. My original headlight switch was very worn, so I bought an NOS one from the Samba classifieds, then I decided to buy the backup. I'm glad that I did, because when I was doing some instrument cluster work, the NOS unit made a popping noise, then a puff of smoke and then I had no headlights or cluster lights. Thankfully, I installed the spare and kept on working.
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